Well that kind of what I've been tryin' to say...that hole is the splashwell drain...water gets in and has to drain back out...except it's blocked by the motor bracket and doesn't work well...needs one on each side of the motor...no, ya don't wanna plug 'em


I don't see a bilge drain hole in your pics...should be in center about 1"or so from bottom of bilge...

Ordered 18 yards of 1708,4 gallons of polyester resin from a friends uncle in moyock,nc yesterday. just been doing a bunch prep work. Do I need to grind back all the gellcoat were my tie in points are gonna be? Thats alot of grinding and sanding. I guess my question is can you glass over roughed up gel coat? or does all of it have to come off? I read on other forums that glassing over gelcoat will depreciate the strength of the bond to the surface.

The word of today is "ITCHY"!!!!!! More prep work today. I read these post over and over and the phrase that sticks in my head is "prep work is key to a sucessfull project" I have decided to go with a 25" transom and im buying a spacer for my 20" lower end. my old lady bought me a seperate clothes hamper for my boat working clothes, she went to work the other morning itching her butt off after washing her clothes with some that i worked on the boat with. LOL!!!!! SHE WAS BENT!!! Will post some pics of my work today later

One word... Tyvec. Buy yourself some Tyvec work suits. They are disposable jumpsuits that cover all your clothes and keep the glass dust off of you. They are cheap priced compared to a bent wife. (Hell, anything is cheap compared to a bent wife) They cost about $4 each, less in bulk. But seriously they really are good protection, especially when doing glass work. Just wear them, then use them again if still good, or just throw them away... end of problem.

More transom prep. Is it ok to add some 1708 to the inside of the skin on the transom to thicken the skin before i glue my first sheet of ply? I had to grind a good bit of "dry" unsaturated chop strand to get down to a good surface for adhesion purposes. I have read the factory thickness of the outer skin should be about a 3/16 to a 1/4 of an inch.

I have 2 tyvec suits in the garage and didnt even think about them. I used them to paint my motorcycle frame. Thats perfect destroyer!!! mine even have hoods to keep that crap off my neck!!!

rub your arms and neck down heavy with baby powder before you start grinding, I don't know what it does, but it sure prevents itching from glass

when i work with glass i use a barrier cream then dust with baby powder tyvek is wonderful also, when finished wash with cold water.

When you work your pores open to allow your skin to sweat and cool your body. The glass fibers get into them and cause the itch. Baby powder fills your pores. It prevents the majority of the glass particles from getting caught in them, which in turn prevents you from itching.

(Long, long ago, I worked as an insulation installer and had that explained to me by a "veteran" installer. I quit that job after a month...):head:

Ok so im ready to build my transom. I have searched and searched and read thread after thread about a lay up schedule for my transom. Can someone please talk me into a schedule for glass and resin for my outboard 25" transom. I have read so many different ways of tackling this transom and what kind of glass and what ounce to use. Im using polyester and im looking to do either a old school layup or use a new school layup with 1708. I want simple and functional. guys thank you so much in advanced.