The bass boat weighs in at 800 pounds hull weight, my flats boat weighs in at 1400 pounds hull weight. They both run almost the same numbers at each RPM point, but the bass boat uses alot less fuel. It only has a 14 gallon tank in it, and I took it out one day for 2 1/2 hours and only burned 11 gallons running it the whole time on a river.

ok ... i just located a motor for sale about 8 miles from my house. it is a 1998 suzuki 200 hp 25" with stainless prop. the price is going to be real right.

not sure on the hours, etc .. would like to go take a look at it before i lose this one.

and also, the yamaha guy returned an email that maybe we can get together this week to look at his motor (1992 200hp).

what do you think about the suzuki? i have heard good things about them.

i also scored a stainless marine floatation bracket 26" setback.

things are starting to come together!!! :clap:

The SUZUKI will be back to a weight issue as all of the V-6 SUZUKI 2 strokes weigh in at 470+ pounds. Solid engine though, just make sure to check the lower unit for cracks in the exhaust area where the prop rides inside the lower. They have a problem with cracking through there, and are not repairable once it happens.

i thought i may be able to get away with the extra weight by getting a minimal set back bracket ..

i was reading builderfl's threads over the weekend .. do you know what motor he was running on his center console and the weight? the porpoising (sp?) issues seem hard to fix.

looked like a mercury 200, but not sure. it seems he was running quite a bit more set back than i will have. not sure how much difference this makes.

happy father's day to all the dads out there!!

BUILDERFL is running quite a bit of set back on his. IIRC he has a 30" setback with another 6 in his jack plate. I believe he has a 2.4L 200 MERC on the back, which is actually a few pounds lighter than a 2.0L 150 MERC(2.0L has steel sleeves, and the 2.4L's are aluminum coated with NICASIL or CHROME). The less set-back you go with the better. If that 200 SUZUKI checks out, it may not be a bad option. The SUZUKI's are supposed to be better on fuel at cruise compared to a MERC, but don't have the top end power of a MERC because of there lower RPM capability. I've been a SUZUKI fan for awhile as well, and wish I could have afforded that 225 and the fuel to go get it recently instead of rebuilding my 200 EVINRUDE.

well, just got back from looking at the suzuki .. a few problems .

the guy cut the wire harness .. not sure why .. and is not able to start or even turn the motor over. no idea of how many hours, compression readings ,etc.

also, there is a crack in the small fin (not sure what you call this piece) at the front of the motor .. is this cavatation plate???? it is the small one,not the biggest fin..

also a small piece missing from the skeg ...

biggest problem is even though the hood says 200 .. the model number is DT225 .. which is clearly not a 200 hp motor. i have the serial number, but not sure if it even is a 1998 or not.

does have ss prop, but he could not take it off for me to look for those cracks you were telling me about.

probably a wise decision to pass. i need to be patient here .. but that is not one of my strong qualities :)

The SUZUKI 150, 200, and 225 are all the same basic engine. Was this the engine on Ebay? How many spark plugs does it have? And what is the serial number? And also remember just because it has a prop with it(wether it be stainless or not), it doesn't neccesarily mean you can use it. Every boat has a different demand for what it needs in a prop as far as pitch, rake, cup and diameter.

yes it is on ebay ...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/_Boat...em250258991643&

serial # is 22501-651203

other number is DT225 .. i assume this is model number

not sure on the number of spark plugs ..

That serial number is for a 96 225HP SUZUKI. The reason I ask how many spark plugs is a 200 EFI will have 1 per cylinder, 6 total. A 225 will always be an EFI with 2 plugs per cylinder, so 12 total. The 150 EFI SUPER SIX bass boat special will also have 12 spark plugs. The serial number on the clamp bracket may not be right though, as many change out the whole bracket for a used one when the trim and tilt gives any issues.

if i had to guess, i thought i saw only 6 spark plugs. i would have to ask him for sure.

got an email back from the seller .. has only 6 spark plugs ..

must be a 200 hp.

wonder if the other items i noticed are a concern.

check this out, ferm ... that merc 150 you found me on ebay a while back .. the one that was labeled "clean" .. the auction was ended all of a sudden .. it is now relisted

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/_Boat...em230262507201&

it looks as though there is a compression problem on one cylinder ... 5 are at 125 and one is at 90.

what do you think?

It w ould be a good rebuilder probably, but not for $3K. Good engines are out there as people are moving up to direct injected engines and 4 strokers as the price of gas goes upward. If your not going to use it alot, then a 150/175 JOHNNY_RUDE would work out for ya.

I have 2 motors you might be interested in . . . 1988 2.4L Merc 175 and a 1992 2.5L 200 Mariner offshore. Both have good compression b/w 115 and 120psi in all 6 cylinders, Lower Units pressure tested, gear oil drained and checked shavings, oil injection is still installed. There going up onto ebay this week . . . $2000 for the Mariner 200 and $1600 for the 2.4L 175.
I'd could even do a delivery/install for $250 extra.

Let me know if you are interested.

Yamaha 150 (1999) w/ seastar hydraulic on motor only
 

My dad is giving me (yes, giving me) a 2007 Yami 150 4 stroke and my 99 150 2 stroke is up for sale. The only thing wrong with it is a few minor paint chips on the cowling. It's on my v20 now. Runs great and serviced always. Have to check to see what it's worth. I'm sure I'll get a bunch of crap for that last statement...

http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z...t/IMG_0383.jpg

bigshrimpin and whatknot .. thanks for the info..

bigshrimpin .. i am in PA ... you are in CA? did i read that you would deliver and install the motor for me for $250????? :sun:

man, you guys are really great on this site .. i am almost glad i picked up this boat project.


Whatknot ... i have eyeing up your boat for some time .. exactly what i am doing. let me know what you are looking to get for your motor. take it easy on me .... i am already over budget :) maybe you can pass on the favor that your dad is doing for you to me .. :clap:



my email address is [email protected]

thanks again

Brad

BigShrimpin is back on the right coast again IIRC. Somewhere up in MA is what I remember reading.

bsteckel - whatknot's 99 Yamaha is a better motor for the v20 in terms of economy . . . not sure the price difference . . . but I'm back east with 14 motors I need to blow out and part out to make room for more. I'm installing a 20" Merc 175 on Thursday in Maine and I have both the motors mentioned ready to go. I have a few blocks that need to go to A1 outboards in PA and I think I could probably double up the trip. If you are interested . . . PM me and I'll send you my contact information.

sounds good ... do you have just those 2 motors in 25"??? wouldnt by chance have any 2.0 mercs????

thanks

Brad

I have 2 2.oL parts motor and I have one nice 96 2.0L powrhead that is still in CA. If you can wait a month or so . . . That one will be back here. I come across good deals all the time . . . so keep in touch.

bigshrimpin .. thanks for the offer .. i am in no hurry .. the boat is not seeing the water anytime soon as i have loads of other things to do.

let me know what you get in...

the search continues......

what hp did merc make with the 2.0? is it just 150hp or did they do 175 or 200 .. i see quite a few motors but almost none of them list whether it is a 2.0 or not.

i was on the phone with 1 outboard and they told me to stay away from 2.4 or 2.5 mercs as they have problems with the block .. not nearly as strong as the 2.0?????

i am looking at one on ebay .. motor cover says 2.5 but the ad reads that it has a 2.4 power head.????

bigshrimpin .. what is the weight of the merc motor you were telling me about ... is it near what a 2.0 250 would weigh? do you have any pics??

thanks

kamikaze .. did you sell that 2.0 you had for sale on craigslist?

That motor has been cleaned up painted and looks almost new. People do this because it draws the attention away from the mecanics and to how clean it looks. I would rather see an engine that they have not detail and that way you can focus on what matters and not the fancy new paint job.

Now you know, my 150 on my flats boat I have for sale is that clean. And it's a 95. Them freshwater motors sure stay clean compared to a slaty dog.

ferm .. check my post 3 above your last post .. question about 2.0 motors ... thanks

2.0's came in 135/150/175. The 2.5L's aren't a bad engine by any means, steel sleeve motors most of em just like the 2.0's. The 2.5L engine actually has better porting and such in it. The 2.4L engines use a special sleeveing set-up cosisting of either NICASIL or CHROME depending upon year and model. Some of them have been re-sleeved with steel sleeves though as the NICASIL and CHROME is BIG money to repair. The 2.0L's are known for being stout engines, can't nobody take that from em either.

how bout a 94 merc 225 3.0l carbed motor .. looks like it weighs 395lbs. only 10 more than the 2.0 150..

how are these motors? ... weight is right.

That weight sounds AWFULLY LOW for a 3.0L MERC. I want to say they are closer to 450-475 pounds(maybe even more). The 3.0L is a big engine compared to a 2.0L. And an AWFUL LOT OF TORQUE for a V-20. They were not bad on fuel, but did use ALOT of oil. Had one on a PRO-LINE 231 years back. Boat held 125 gallons of gas, and 3 gallons of oil. It would ALWAYS run out of oil before gas on a long trip. You had to carry extra oil with you on that boat, not to mention how much it ALWAYS smoked. The 3.0L's I want to say ran the oil injection at 75:1 at idle, and 32:1 at WOT, and dropped back to 40:1 for cruise.

That guy with who list the 175 with the external pump is a decade off on the date of that motor. serial number beginning with 532 for the 175 is 1978 not 1988. I like those motors, but there worth $500 on a good day . . . unless it's in mint condition.

shrimpin ... what does your 2.4 175 look like? what kind of shape is it in? and also the 2.0 you may be able to put together in a month ..

what kind of shape is that one in? ..

i am doing this boat over so i want something that looks presentable while also vg in mechanical condition.

ferm ... i got that weight from the nada online guide .. it lists the 225 at 395 lbs ...

the smoking problem worries me .. not interested in getting smoked out.

ok ... i found this .. guy has an 2002 evinrude 200 hp ficht .. powerhead blew and there is a hole in it .. supposedly in great condition other than that .. freshwater use.

i know this motor is a bit heavy ... someone in the beginning of my search said stay away from anything with ficht written on it? not sure why.

thinking of going this route and either getting a power head ready to go or finding and rebuilding one .. this way i know what i have.

any thoughts on this?

:you::haha:

My question would be why did it blow? Powerheads don't normally just blow a hole through the block unless something else was wrong that caused it to happen. Engines do wear out, but not many actually wear them out. Look at it this way, you get a rebuilt powerhead for it or rebuild one. Don't kid yourself it WILL cost AT LEAST $2000 if you can do the whole job(with the exception of machineing) yourself. A rebuilt powerhead will set you back closer to $4K because a windowed block will most likely not be an acceptable core.

Then you still have an unknown engine with a MAJOR problem to be fixed still. I did a nice write-up awhile back about this, most overlook why the original failure occurred and then it happens again right away. So after say $2000-$2500 for the rebuild and a few incidentals, now your going to be takeing it to a FICHT expert for programming(or buying the software yourself) to set-it up for break-in. And now you have an engine that could still need an injector or EMM to fix the original failure. You could spend another $1K REAL quick paying a shop to diagnose an engine that VERY few understand and can work on.

FICHTS aren't all bad, but when you get a problem child ANYTHING it can cost you a FORTUNE to keep it running.

good point, ferm. i was tossing around the idea of buying a motor that i knew was broke then fixing it and knowing what i have ..

versus taking someone's word on a running engine and then rolling the dice on how long it lasts.

crap shoot either way.

did locate a 93 yammi 150 .. it is the c series that does not have oil injection .. may take a look this weekend.

There's nothing wrong with getting a fixer, but I would limit that search to an engine that the average person can fix WITHOUT a laptop. A FICHT or OPTIMAX would not be my idea of an economical fixer upper. There's alot of MERCURY and OMC parts out there at pretty much any given time for reasonable money. MOST DFI engines are considered a throw away engine once any major problems occur. The replacement of an early OPTIMAX's compressor is almost not feasible considering a compressor will set you back for close to a $1K in parts on a $2-3K engine.

here we go again ... am on vacation for the next 10 days in DE ... located a 98 yamaha 150, oil inj. saltwater series motor. guy says he bought 2 motors as a pair .. approx 450 hours. installed this one on his boat. he could not get the motor to spin up past 3100 rpms or so .. took off carbs, cleaned them .. tried again .. no go. changed fuel pump ... again no go. i think he even replaced the carbs and still no high rpms.

so then he gave up and put the other motor on that he got and it worked great. so now this motor is for sale. says he checked compression and all were 98-115. he says that is all he can tell me. he gave up and put the other motor on .. then this one went in storage. did not have the time to fool with it.

motor looks real nice externally. not sure what else could be the problem. he said he can rev the motor up past 3100 by hand, but when motor is in gear .. no go.

does this sound like something i should walk from or maybe this could be an easy fix .. not sure what there is left to try.

thanks

Looks like you decided the not to go for the evinrude, would have been my choice too. I think they had alot of problems early 2000's.
sorry I don't have any input for the 98 Yamaha, I will ask my buddy who is a outboard mechanic for you.

Sounds like a bad stator on the YAMAHA, or something with the timing advance.

ferm ... something i should run away from .. or simple (read affordable) fix? i see he just put it up on ebay.