I have relocated the boat to my dads house, He has a very big shop that I can store it in until I get the stringers glassed in and sole glassed in also. I have some pics of the stringer cleats that i glued and screwed yesterday. I will be ready to glass the stringers in Saturday after I finish prep work on friday.

stringer cleats and glassing stringers
 

I glued my stringer cleats on yesterday. and glassed in my main stringers today with one layer of 1708. the picture with the scrap 3/4 ply shows that i allowed some fudge room for the CSM that im gonna wrap the top of the stringers with and the glue for glueing down the sole.I also tabbed my stringers in before I put my last layer of 1708 on the transom, I kinda thought it would lock the stringers into the transom a little better.

Great job, thanks for the pics!

WOW. I been busy and missed the progress. Excellent work. Looks strong as a tank. I often wondered about glassing the cap to the hull. Never tried that one. I have seen a few go fasts with no rub rail and a bunch of boats that have the liner glassed to the hull at the transom and gel coated from the factory with no issues. You are moving along. I hear you about the bubble popper rollers. You are neater at glassing than I ever was. I always say your not having fun glassing until you spend a few uninterrupted hours down in the hull sniffing VE Resin. Keep it up. :clap:

I've been in top-tier boat factories that weren't that well done!!!...NICE WORK!!...that'll not be your typical V20 once you're done...BEEFY V!!...


And your choice of shops to work on it...man I gotta hand it to ya!!...right beside the BEER FRIDGE!!...GENIUS!!...:clap:...You da MAN!!...:beer:

fellas thank you for the words of encouragement. I have to admit she is gonna be battle ready!!!! I have made sure that I have taken plenty of pictures because if werent for people like you guys on V20.COM and on other forums that take plenty of pics and documented there builds I wouldnt be doing this.Im gonna stay away from glassing the cap to the hull, there is way to much flex there and im sure its gonna turn out looking like poop after 5 or 6 monthes of fishing because it cracking. she is coming together and my splash time should be around late spring to early summer. Im waiting for one of you guys to sell me a cheap t-top for this rig!!! LOL!!! I will keep the pictures coming!!!

Waiting for this cold front to get out of here!!! Im gonna be glass the top of my stringers with 2 layers of 1.5 CSM on friday to simply encapsulate the top of the stringer. After that Im gonna fab up my chase pipe for my electronics and teleflex. still not quite sure how im gonna set that up with out it looking like crap. Any ideas or pics of your chase pipes would be great!!:beer:

The stringers are finally done and my last layer of 1708 is on the transom. All i have to do is put some thickened resin in the stringer drain holes then drill the holes 1 inch( I over drilled the holes 1 1/2 inch) to allow for a solid ring of glass around the drains to protect the raw wood. I also drilled my garboard plug a 1 1/2 and then used thickened resin reinforced with some chopped glass to fill the hole back and then drilled it 1 inch. A little more prep and then im ready for the sole. What should I do to water proof the bottom side of my 3/4 inch ply for my sole? 1 layer of csm?or should I just simply hotcoat it?

I'm no expert, but I might leave the stringer drain holes 1 1/2". Might help keep them from getting blocked and water pooling against the stringer.

Bradford thats a good call. I will do that. I will just finger some thickened resin in there to cover raw wood. and then kinda touch it up with a dremel for easier flow.

Re-attached my liner pieces today with thickened resin.and also cut and prepped one of my old fish boxes that I removed from the floor as my new splash well. Just basicly did some prep for the sole today. I cant wait to get this floor in.:sun:

Removed the old cap yesterday. Im gonna build the cap up from scratch.

Looks like yer gonna take the floor all the way back to the tranny...will the floor have some "fall" to it to drain into the well...and I'm thinkin' the well will be complete w/pump(s) and drain-grate so nobody steps off into it in the heat of battle that's surely gonna erupt...:sun:...like the use of the partial floor hatch liner....:clap:

REEL yes I will have one bilge pump in the motor "splash" well and one below deck. The reason I even used the the fish box liner instead of the old motor well was because the fish box liner has the 3/4 inch recessed lip on it so I can drop in the drain grate made from teak to keep the boys from busting there butt in that hole. Im also going to have 2 ball scuppers at deck level on port and starboard.The floor has factory grade to the rear seeing how the stringers i installed are factory height.

I had a '74 for 11 years...and your plan worries me a bit...the 70s models had floors set AT water level....later when Wellcraft went to a self draining floor deck, it was RAISED above water level to accomplish that function...if you install scuppers AT water level, even the ball type, will you have the draining capability you're looking for?

ball scuppers
 

My plan was to not install the scuppers till i splash it and find out floor height ( BUT IT WAS IN THE DRAIN PLANS) LOL!!. My dad had scuppers on his, but his was a 84'

That's why I brought it up as a concern...your dad's '84 was AFTER Wellcraft raised the floor and heightened the cap to make self-draining and put the fuel tank under the floor...good luck w/it and w/your skills, I'm confident if you install scuppers in wrong place, you can always reposition them...:clap:

Well today due to the holiday I was able to rough in my sole and also cut the hole for my splash "sump well". I recessed the rough opening on the sump liner hole so I can glue in my fabricated splash well and glass over the lip flush with the my glass for my sole.

She's gonna be sweet!

Looking good brother!

looking good keep up the good work and if i may ask what are scuppers i am still grinding getting closer to being done though

Mike a scupper works as a one way type valve allowing water out of the boat through a transom hole but a flapper on the outside does not allow water to come back inside the boat. search scupper on google

As Kracker Jack stated above, a scupper is nothing more than a way to let water out of the boat automatically....it can be a hole or a channel. On most small boats it's a hole, and on large boats it's a channel. A check valve, which can be simply a flapper at the end of the hole or a more complicated ball assembly inside the hole keeps the water from coming back in. :beer:

guy i work with has a two ball scuppers mounted in the bilge through the transom. he has plugs that fit so he can plug them off if needed, but he says that if he takes a wave any water in the boat gets sucked out when he is moving by the prop. kinda neat idea just not sure how well it would work and not sure i like the idea of any hole in the boat bieng below the water line

We have always put our plugs on the inside of the bilge on our garboard drain. This would allow us to pull the plug from the inside when we on plane to allow water to drain out. One hole below the water line is good enough for me!!! LOL!!

I will be glassing the bottom of my sole tomorrow with a single layer of 1.5 ounce CSM. And of course pictures will follow. I will also be setting up and installing my tele-flex and controls chase pipe from my console to my transom.

When I used to have 15' Steury that's always how we drained the bilge.
Come up on plane and pull the plug.. the water drains out really quickly, and then you simply put the plug back in. Never even heard of putting a plug on the outside of the hull till I moved up in size to my first V20 :head:

I have had my fair share of leaning over the transom and pulling the plug from the outside to drain water. It's not easy when on plane!

i have an 1100gph bilge pump,backed up by a 750 gph pump. i put plugs in both sides of the drain, because my boat doesnt have a threaded plug and i want to be damn sure they stay put

If you need an extra set of hands on setting the motor or anything like that kracker let me know, i live off of rosemont and can lend a quick hand if needed from time to time.

I appreciate the offer. My dad has a forklift so hanging the motor is going to be cinch. Thank you. My mom and dads place is off Sandbridge Rd (thats where the boat is for now), by MARGIE AND RAYS seafood restraunt. come check out the build when ever you want I will be there all day tomorrow.

Here are some pictures from today. The chase tube fabrication went very smooth. I didnt exactly like drilling a hole through a newly replaced stringer but i'll get over it. The hole drilled through the sringer was drilled slightly larger to allow thickened resin to bed the tube and seal the raw wood. I also took some more pictures with the console in to show my setup.

So here is my new choice of power for my v20!!! what do you guys think? Should I keep the 2 hp on my v20 or put it back on my flat back canoe? LOL!!!

thanks on the scupper info is that an open invite on stopping by and checking out the boat

Mike come by tomorrow. I will pm you my cell number.

I increased the diameter of the two drains on my splashwell and added the one-way scuppers. After one trip, I decided to remove the rubber flaps because they seemed to impede the draining process. When I'm anchored, water runs in and out of my splashwell, but it doesn't seem to cause any problems. With a 20" transom, the water is gonna get in there regardless, and I'd rather have it drain quickly than trickle through the flapper valve. This was the best pic I could find of it.

I cant seem to quit make out that picture. I see the transom ladder and what looks to be like a plastic bottle of some sort?

click on the pic...... it's a drill with a holesaw

I see it now thanks SMOKE

Chase diameter
 

Kracker:

I recommend you dry your rigging thru that chase before you mount the deck. It looks relatively small in the pics with several 90 degree corners that may makes rigging a real pain. Especially if your going to use mechanical steering!

Keep up the good work.

Kamikaze