Can you guys imagie how much easier life would have been for all of us if we had the computer and a site like this years ago when we were younger and were able to bounce stuff off a bunch of other fellows who had been there seen that and done it.
I was thinking about that this morning

As ususal Ferm is on the mark with the engine info, sounds like that older Merc would be a great candidate
Good luck with your search

can't thank you enough for all of the info ... as willy says .. this site is great. you have a way better chance of getting it right the first time... when i was younger with no family .. i could make those mistakes and it was not a big deal..

now with a wife and kids, i can't afford to spend un wisely .. also get tired of hearing about it :)

if anyone comes across a nice 2l 150 merc in the northeast area .. philly, nj, ny .. let me know .. i would be grateful.

Brad

Another thing to keep in mind is to get a bracket with the least amount of set-back as you can get away with as possible. I would think a 26" set-back would still allow you to trim the engine up and to help keep the center of balance further forward.

found a 87 merc 150 exlpto ... is this a 2.0 l that i am looking for?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/_Boat...em180245681009&

it is right were i am this weekend and would like to go look at it if it is the correct engine.

thanks

I wouldn't buy that onbe if it were for me. The first thing I didn't like about it was that the airbox for trhe carbs is missing. This is an almost sure sign of an engine that somebody has tried to up the HP on and re-jet, or if it hasn't been re-jetted it's beggin to get burned up. And secondly it only has a 16 amp charging system on it. And lastly the compression numbers don't look good on it. The general rule is 10% difference from highest to lowest, that engine has one at 110 and another at 135. that is more than 10% and an almost definate sign of an engine trhat has been re-sleeved and over bored on one or two cylinders. It also looks to be a 2.4L to me, but I'm not that good at identifying them from pictures. I use the airbox to tell the difference and this one doesn't have an airbox.

that should be a 2.0L. with those comp#'s i would pull the heads and inspect the cyl walls even before i thought about buying it. still 700 bucks if you know how to tool with merc i would buy it and put 700 bucks into for new internals and you basically have a very reliable engine.

I looked in the SIERRA MARINE catalog and it says it's an 86 150 according to the serial number, and it should be a 2.0L. Those compression numbers and the missing airbox are dead giveaways that somebody has been monkeying with the engine. It would make a ggod engine, but definately looks as though it will need work soon. I'll keep an eye out when I'm surfin to see if I can locate you a decent 2.0L outboard or at least a 2.0L powerhead. the 2.0L engines are pretty tough, and if left stock will run a long time. I have an 81 that needs new electronics, but other than that it is a solid engine that has never been rebuilt. The hard part is finding one in a 25" shaft as most of them were 20" shafts for bass boats.

i was thinking about driving over and looking at it ... it is at a local marina. what price is a deal that i cannot walk away from? not sure what these motors go for .. also not sure how easy they are to find .. lookd like it is missing prop and does not say if controls are with the motor.

i am afraid that the 200 hp fresh water yamaha (1992) i was looking at may be too heavy?

Ferm, was my two 90's 150 Black Maxs the type you are talking about, because they were the engines that constantly needed attention, mostly electronic and or power pacs and crushed me for years ?

In the 90's it could have been 2.0L's or 2.5L's. They offered both in 150HP from around 91+. The switch boxes can give some trouble, but aren't normally that bad. No worse than OMC's powerpacks. All of them pretty well used the same electronics though if they were carb motors. Normally when they give constant problems with the electronics like you describe, there is a problem somewhere else that is actually causing the problem. Many times a stator will fail constantly from a bad rectifier or battery, but thet stator will get replaced and the other actual problem overlooked and then it happens again and again. Or switch boxes fail from the wrong stator flywheel combo or a bad coil, yet the switchbox is continually blamed when it is actually working fine but getting burned out by another problem.

As for what this engine is worth, I wouldn't go to high on it. These engines do pop-up from time to time with better options on them for fair money. I believe RM sold a nice one last year for $3400 on Ebay that was a 2.0L 150 25" shaft.