Wellcraft V20 Community - Transom repair

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- - Transom repair - Here we go..... (long) (https://forums.wmpdevserver1.com/community/showthread.php?t=8830)

So your saying your total cost was around $500.00?

Yes sir. About $475 for the three 5 gal buckets plus activator. I did use about half a gallon on poly resin to coat the insides. I'll need a little more to seal the vertical sections of the transom that are open to the inside. I'll make sure I have a pic of that so you can see what I'm talking about. I spent $10 at harbor freight on the 2' drill bits and I picked up a few other things that I thought would help that I ended up not needing. And I had to buy the 3' x 3" steel bar that I used to scrape the remaining wood off the inside ( I don't have as much junk lying around as I used to - my wife makes me keep it clean). Anyway, that bar at Lowes was about $10. All in all, probably not much more that $550. If you can get a chainsaw that will reach the limits of wood throughout the entire transom, that is the ticket. Mine was to small so I had to resort to physical labor. I could have rented a 24" for $65, but I was dumb and said I don't want to spend that. In hindsight, I should have rented it and been done with it in no time. Hopefully pics when I get home tonight.

Maury

DONE TO (paint next)

Just rolled the drain plug sleeve about 15 minutes ago.
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w...aki3/001-4.jpg

Here we go with more pics.

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y19...2/P1010280.jpg
Here she is all taped up. Important note, don't use cheap painters tape. It doesn't work well. Make sure EVERY hole is closed. There was one at a seam on the inner liner that I could not have known about unless I had filled her up with water.

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y19...2/P1010283.jpg
The inside, not quite finished.

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y19...2/P1010281.jpg
Another inside view. She looks pretty clean. I sanded as much as I could. I found that using the long drill bit as a sander worked well. It scrapped the sides pretty clean.

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y19...2/P1010284.jpg
Here is my metal bar scraper. Can you say physical labor?? I was pretty sore after a few hours with this.

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y19...2/P1010289.jpg
Another ready to pour shot.

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y19...2/P1010288.jpg
Time for a break and a beer prior to the final steps. Yes, that's a self portrait.

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y19...2/P1010304.jpg
No actual shots of the actual pour as it was a two person job. Here's my traffic cone fullel.

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y19...2/P1010290.jpg
I coated the interior really well with resin before I poured the transom compound. Here is the small roller I used.

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y19...2/P1010293.jpg
The first pour. The stuff really self levels. This is looking toward the side (starboard?)

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y19...2/P1010295.jpg
More pour

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y19...2/P1010292.jpg

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y19...2/P1010303.jpg

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y19...2/P1010302.jpg
Here's the high tech engineering to block up the sides. Use good tape as this stuff leaks through even the smallest hole.

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y19...2/P1010305.jpg
See what I mean

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y19...2/P1010310.jpg
The finished side. Wrinkles are from the duct tape that was covering the wood block. The space is there because the void tapered down toward the outside of hte boat. The transom compound was at the top of the void on the outter edges of the transom. I guess I can pack it with resin and cloth, but why bother? Nothing screws into that section and its only about two inches out of the entire transom height. I doubt it provides little, if any support.

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y19...2/P1010307.jpg
Finished with a little sanding. I added a small lift on the top just so my transom cap would have a shelf to sit on. The original transom had some really uneven, thick bondo type filler on top. One side of the transom had about 1/4 inch of filler and the other side had about 2". Did they cut the wood that crooked at the factory?

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y19...2/P1010308.jpg
The stuff is as hard as concrete.

More to come. Comments anyone?

That looks like a great job!! Can't wait for the finished product!!

About the alum cap, Skools and Stinky I believe have removed them as they just allow the water to get down inside rotting the transom!

They just glassed them over sanded and done!! no more top! I liked the idea and with this stuff you are using a cap will not be needed and neither will rotting be a issue ever again!

Quote:

Originally Posted by mauryc (Post 114679)

Comments anyone?

Yeah, I got 2 transoms here.

WANNA COME DO THEM TO?:sly:

yeah how hard is it to drill and how well can you mount stuff in the transom with screws? don't cap it with metal glass it over rounded like new boats looks better and never an issue,

I was hoping to not have to paint and do any finish work. I don't want it to look like a patch job. But I may consider that. I know the cap won't do anything but provide looks. As fas as screwing an drilling, I'll get to that next. I haven't begun to remount anything yet.

Looks great! Whoever redid my transom glassed over the top like skools did. Awesome pics and good commentary. I might be picking up a project boat that I know needs transom work and I don't really want to get into pulling the cap.

Did you use all 15 gallons? and if not is there a formula to figure out how much material is needed for the thickness and area of the transom?