Re: transom and other stuff
 

Thanks Ken;
Your pics do help. Seems to me the only way to fix the stringers is to cut the deck off. What do you do after the stringers are repaired, put the same cut out piece back on? I'd like to lie to you and say I"m doing that now but I might just wait until next winter for that one.

Back to chainsawing the transom now, my brother thinks hes ready to carve lawn ornament bears out of a tree stump by now.


Mike

Re: transom and other stuff
 

mike,
i don't blame you for makeing it a winter project.....big job. but what i would do is glass in the stringers to the new transom as far back as you can reach without tearing out the floor......it will buy you some time until you can tackle the job.
ken

Re: transom and other stuff
 

Good point ken.
I actually am enjoying the work, just think if I rip out the floor to fix the stringers, I'm going to loose a month or two and I kinda feel like I can make it to winter. I know that sounds hap hazard but ..... oh well......

I'm trying my hand at glassing for the first time in my life, so the floor deal is a little intimidating. I'll know more about my skills after the transom build up.

MIke

Re: transom and other stuff
 

Here's another thought. I can scrap that little round access plate to the bilge for a larger plastic one like tempress or bomar. That would allow me to glass the stringers even farther back.

Re: transom and other stuff
 

mike, that would work. the main thing is you attach the stringers to the transom..... ken

Re: transom and other stuff
 

Sounds like a plan... glad to see Ken chiming in on this one. :)

Cb, is the transom on those v20s a simple curve or a compound curve?

Re: transom and other stuff
 

Today's work went really well. We got 100% of all the wood out of the transom without poking a single hole in the skin. Shop vac worked great at keeping it clean so we could see. Right now I'm ready for glass build up of transom. One question for the glass experts.

I have several small week spots and holes in the inner skin under the deck where the stringers meet the transom. I need to glass these holes as well as glass the stringers to the transom as discussed before. The spec. for the build up on the transom is for 1-1/2 oz mat/Woven roving/1-1/2 oz mat. Do I resin all three while all three are still wet or do I let each one dry first?
Also on the inner skin, do I use a heavier mat like 6 oz to connect the transom to the stringers? Seems like that 1-1/2 oz stuff is kind of thin.
I would think I would want the heavyest mat I can put on this thing. I understand the lightweight stuff for the build up as it will have a finer finish as well as thickness with the woven roving.
Any thoughts?


Mike

Re: transom and other stuff
 

The transom has about a 2" curve in it from the center to the edge. when I put my bracket on I had to make 11/2 " wedge shims to put on each edge of the bracket as it was form a 23 Seacraft and they are stright across.

Heavy woven is stronger then a thick mat! and The more layers you put the stronger it will be.
I would let each layer dry before I lay the next layer. it doen't take long for it to dry and will be much easier to work with!
If it were I , I think I would use brand new wood for the stringers!!
I would glass new boards right in to the transom right along the old stringers and bolt in to a good spot on the old stringers.
Then when you want to do the whole job the right way you have something already in the transom without having to mess with all the work you just done.

Re: transom and other stuff
 

mike,
you can do all 3 layers a once or 1 at a time just make sure you get all the air bubbles out or you will have hollow spots. maco had a good idea about the new wood for the stringers, but being your working thru an access hole i don't know if you can get a 12in. piece of wood thru it ????
sounds like you had a good day......
ken

Re: transom and other stuff
 

MB,
For the transom, I would do all 3 layers in the same day.
Wait for the 1st layer of mat to set to a hard tack, so you don't diSturb it and create air pockets. Next, lay down the woven roven. This will soak up resin like it is going out of style. When this sets up lay down your final layer of matt. If for some reason you can't do all 3 layers in timely fashion, then lightly scuff the cured suface with sandpaper and wipe it good and clean with old rags soaked with acetone.

I don't have a clear picture in my mind of your stringers attaching to the transom. Use some bondo to fill inside corners to a curve. A tongue depresser or quarters work good as tools. Sand it fairly smooth. Lay down a few layers of 1 1/2 oz matt. Don't be afraid to tear it up to get it to cover the whole connection. You can then use strips of woven here, but it will not be easy to bend a short strip to an inside corner. Hopefully you will have an easy curve to the inside corner from all your mattwork. Fill in and top off with more matt. Whatever you are gonna do inside the stringer at the transom connection - do it before you glass like this, because you ain't getting back in there without a fight.