Did that fix your uneven power problem?

no, actually the charging problem was on the port motor that gets above 5000.

We did loosen up the controls...snapped off 2 of the 4 allen screws holding the binnacle cover. Lubed the linkage at the motors. Smoother and easier to push and shift.

Suppose we could run with cover off and try to work throttle from there, if we get to 5k then linkage needs adjusting?

Bought a Seloc manual on eBay $25...great if work on every motor from 2 hp to 250 and you already know what you are doing. Should have bought a Yamaha manual for SX225/LX225...$90 from Yamaha.:nut:

I think the prop is definitely a contributing factor, I can see a difference..

Funny thing, if I read fuel meters separately, the stbd motor actually burns a hair less fuel when they are both running at 4200

if you can "see" a difference in props, then there is definitely an issue. I had props that look perfect were way off. What props are on the boat?

haven't had the chance to get a good hands-on look at the props. Guess thats my next project...after fishing tomorrow morning...

Assuming they are marked the same size....PO said he had the stbd one repaired.

Edges look different, not cupped like the port one.
I'll get the size off both and maybe get another to match the port side...throw money at it...see what sticks....:nut:

By the way, we found some poor connections and green copper on some cables from the house battery and now that side is also measuring 14V when we are running. So we are making progress. Installed 4 more new rod holders also...

When having a prop rebuilt, I always reccomend doing them in pairs. Many shops use universal dies to shape the blades which can be good or bad. Many times a certain size of prop can comein 20 different blade types, or more. You really need to have a prop rebuilt on a die made for just that specific prop, but that can mean a prop shop must buy 20 different dies in every pitch size. This can add up to thousands of dies, so they use universal dies to use to rebuild, shape, and contour the blade. It only takes the slightest of differences in prop design to completely change how a prop works or even how the boat rides. Having both props done at the same time means they can at least make them both similiar. You may even benefit from a prop swap. For a big boat like that with big v-6 2 strokes, it would do well with a set of mirage plus large diameter props. It would help out with prop hookup down low, and they lift the stern pretty well to help plant the bow down which helps in thechop to keep the sharp part of the v bow doing it's job instead of running bow high and slamming the flatter hull bottom.

What Ferm said

Here's what I mean about looking different. You can see the starboard prop's edge has been reworked. Have't got a lot of enthusiasm for removing props while in water but thats the only way to get numbers off them....

https://i.imgur.com/fU4LdUch.jpg

look near the back of the prop hub, right where it flares out, if they are Yamaha Props(looks like it), it will have something like 17M embossed in the prop. Do what Ferm said, pull them both and carry them to a reputable prop shop and have them checked

I can tell from the pics that the starboard prop has a good bit more cup to it. The cupping is one of the 1st parts to wear off, and can make or break how some props perform. Those aren't quite a semi-cleaver blade as they're rounded instead of squared, but I would say they look like Yamaha props as they use blades with a semi cleaver design alot as they allow the boat to plane easier and give better low end performance. They also lift the stern really well which is the main reason they perform so well down low. That blade design NEEDS a good cup to the blade tip or else they blow out.

Yea but they only have to run 2 miles off the beach to be in the pelagics!! Lol!!!