I would like to have the fishing rod boxes. Shipping them to Texas might be fairly expensive though.

The picture with the tree leaves in the background changing to fall colors is very nice..

Yea I could imagine that'd be a big box and they are very brittle. My original plan for them was to have a local shop spray the back of them with a chop gun. They are cheap plastic. We are getting a lot of fall foliage here now. Very pretty, but falling in the boats.

suggestion...save all those pieces you cut because you will find many places where you wish you had a flat piece of solid glass already made.

...and pre-made corners!!!!

keeping the cap was a great idea..

another reason not to replace a transom from the outside.

I don't like that the corners were cut to the edge. he could have left 6 inches all around ( of strong original glass). then all of the work would have been on the transom.

What an awesome idea!!! Too bad I didn't come up with it before I hauled the stuff to the dump :arrr: I kept the gas tank hatch thinking someone may need it as it's actually pretty solid. If no one wants it I'll use it for something I'm sure.

It sucks the shipping on most of this stuff would be outrageous because I'd rather give it to someone here then sell it locally, but if no one here can get any of it then I guess I'll throw it on Craig's and see if I can't get some resin money out of the stuff. My plan is to use all epoxy so that's gonna put a dent in the old wallet.

If you're going to pour Carbon Core, remember that it is polyester resin. You should use poly in places where they will contact the wet pour.

the rule...as I was told... is you can use poly on hardened poly, Epoxy on hardened poly and epoxy on hardened epoxy, but you can't use poly on hardened epoxy.

So your transom skins should be patched/fabricated/tabbed/coated using polyester resin. Then when that and the pour is all set, you can go over it with epoxy for strength

you should have kept the preformed hatch cutouts also....as Homer would say "DOH!"

I have also read that. Very useful information. Thanks. If I do the stingers I plan on laminating everything with a layer of CSM mostly to make sure there is no holes so if that's what I'll do I'll definitely use poly resin for that.

The inside of the hull is very rough woven roving with resin flung everywhere. I reckon Wellcraft figured out of sight, out of mind. So I plan on sanding it down and putting at least 1 layer of CSM on that also to give it a little smoother surface since now it will be visible. I'll probably use epoxy for that but that will be after everything is poured.