broke out the chainsaw...
 

yesterday was slow going. Tried to remove the remains of the wood from the edges using the auger bit and a tiny flat bar. Wasted most of a day before making the move to the chain saw. I had bought a 14" electric at Harbor Freight (under $50) just in case but I was kind of afraid to try it.

GREATEST THING SINCE SLICED BREAD!!!!!!:party:

Of course, you do have to be careful (said the guy using a chain saw for an unintended purpose).

Starboard side was super easy because of the angle. Port side got pretty awkward toward the top because you had to be sort of upside-down. Still way faster than my other method. You would be surprised how the side of the chain rides along the fiberglass.

Sweet!

OK! Poured the transom today!

Working on a video of the full project but here are some pics.

Had a problem but turned out ok.

In pics, watch the drain hole on the stringer. There were small holes between the transom & the bottoms of the stringers (plural) that I did not forsee.

Luckily paper towels stopped it up quick. Only lost about a pint into the bilge area.

2 buckets (10 Gal) reached to about 3 inches below the transom cutout.

It cooked for a couple hours. Solid as a rock now.

I will glass over the cutout and pour the rest tomorrow.

Looking forward to the video.

Looking good. I'm getting ready to cut into mine in a few weeks.

Looking good. Are you coming back to Garden State when it's all back together?

Good for you - doing it yourself, likely learned a lot, saved $$ and will be proud of the job.

yes, paid for the slip already so I would be motivated!

So! A question about the hardness of cured ceramic compound has come up from another guy on the forum who just poured a transom also, saying
"it is supposed to be as hard as a rock and you can’t drive a nail into it”.
His is not. Mine is not.

Now I figured that, as a core material, it would not be that hard.
There is no official info about it on Carbon-Core's site or Arjay's site

I have a hockey puck shaped piece that I made in a measuring cup during my pour.
It is dry. Not tacky.
It seems solid to me but it can be easily screwed into, easily drilled, and while I can’t get a finish nail into it, a cement shingle nail goes in readily. It does not split or chip at the nail hole.
The edges can be shaved and the shavings hold together somewhat.
I drilled the drain hole in the transom with a 1 inch spade bit and it was like smooth fine grained wood.
It is not brittle and it certainly is not “hard as a rock”.

The transom itself is solid, no flex with my 200 lbs jumping on it.
It got really hot so it definitely kicked and it is not tacky.

Before I glass everything back together and hang a 429 lb motor on it, can anyone with first hand experience set my mind at ease (hopefully) or tell me not to put the motor on without more life insurance.
http://www.wellcraftv20.com/communit...pictureid=1161

Suggestions......

1. Put your question on the Hull Truth web site - likely get fast, experienced feedback.

2. Call the product mfg. and ask about it.