that is some nice craftsmanship you did right there. What did you use to apply the PB under and on the edges of the stringers?

Big zip lock bags with some duct tape on one edge then cut the corner off to make it like a pastry bag to squeeze out like icing. Smoothed the radius with plastic spoons.

makes sense. thanks. This is off topic for this thread but how many sheets of ply did you use for your transom?

2 sheets of 3/4" marine grade ply, birch. You just can't get two transom cut-outs out of 1 sheet. Very close but not quite possible.

So your ply in your transom is 1.5"? I was way overkill thinking 4 sheets. for 3 inches of ply.

2 sheets is fine, that is what the factory originally installed.

Sweet. You think I should use 3 since I'm going with a bracket? Or the knees would be fine?

I don't have any experience with brackets and don't know how they distribute force on the transom.

Original transom has two layers. Whoever rebuilt the transom in the 18 Fisherman i have used three layers of plywood. The transom is rock solid.

CTerrebonne why not use one piece stringers that extend out the transom and build a bracket off them? That is what i am trying to figure out how to do now. Then you have no load on the transom unless you want it to be loaded. I plan on one layer of 3/4 ply in my transom. Just an idea,.

On a side note, one of the major bracket manufacturers says in their online installation instructions, if the transom has soft spots or rot to add one piece of 3/4 ply to the inside of the transom.

Extensive the stringers out would make a really strong bracket. I am trying to go as light as possible. I am planning on using a aluminum bracket with out a platform. Sounds like 3 pieces of ply with knees glasses in is the ticket. I have a lot of woven roven. How would that help if used it between each piece of ply. Another thing, does the ply goes against the skin with just epoxy pb or do I put a piece of bi axle in between thE wood and the back skin?