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		When you start a project evryone always has a vision of what they want there project to look like. I have had a vision of what my v20 was gonna look like since the day I saw it sitting in that cow pasture. Ironicly a guy On THT forum sent a picture of his v20 to my build thread after reading that I was gonna paint it fighting lady yellow and also paint the bottom white. when I looked at the picture of his boat I thought I was looking at a ghost!!!!! It looked exactly like I wanted my v20 to look like Except for some things which I photo shopped his picture tonight. I made the t-top white and instead of a black boat stripe I want a dual white boot stripe. Here is the picture I photo shopped. Its beautiful and is exactly how my rig will look when finished 
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 ...and that Float On trailer is EXACTLY like mine except he's got smaller diameter wheels/tires...ghost pic for sure... 
	Kracker...no matter how the stern area of a boat is configured, the wrong wave at the wrong time can be a problem for ANY boat...but I'm lookin' at the sump-well open to the deck AHEAD of the splash-wall you propose and scratchin' my ol punkin head...if enough water comes over the tranny to fill 'er up, it's just gonna shoot up and out the sump-well in front of the wall, so it really doesn't accomplish much to install the wall... Another question...is the sump-well open to receive water that'll get under the floor deck...if not, when water gets under the floor, where's it gonna go?...I'm afraid yer gonna tell me all that's sealed off and water cannot get in there...  | 
		
 That sump well is sealed off, theres gonna be one thru-transom drain plug in the sump. Im only gonna be fishing this boat in ideal conditions and no more than 15 0r 20 miles off the beach I seriously doubt I will ever be in a situation to were I take a rogue over the stern but i still I want the deck as sealed of as possible the only place water can get into the bilge is by the storage hatch forward at the bow, I want the boat to have a chance of popping up like a cork and rolling that water over the stern. In front of the sump well I will have a 7x11 pop up deck type hatch so I can access my rule bilge pump. I will also have a 500 gph or better in the sump well to pump transom and deck wash overboard. 
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 Kracker I don't want ya to think I'm raggin on ya...I'm actually envious of your skills, so take the following as food for thought...not criticism...I'm glad to hear yer gonna put a floor hatch ahead of the sump for bilge pump access...but at the same time on pump size; THINK BIGGER...500s are for bait tanks and paddle boats...a grand in the sump and a grand in the bilge are better selections...and even bigger won't hurt... We took a 17'er 35 miles off Charleston one day and had perfect seas(as forecasted) until we were in sight (5 miles or so) of the jetties when we started taking waves over the windshield one of which took the hat off my head...and I bet ya Macojoe seriously doubted having his windshield destroyed and cockpit FILLED close shore either...some days, that's where the poop gets in the fan...I ain't waggin' a finger here...just tryin' to keep ya safe...  | 
		
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 Kracker, I allways tell people to go at least 2000 on their primary pumps with teh 1 1/8 smooth wall hose, bilge pumps are rated with no hose, no head pressure, just free flow and at 18 V. WHen you drop it down to 12 v, your cutting flow by about a third, when you hook hose to it with any rise, it probably drops another third, its said that the corrigated hose cuts flow in half. Years ago, one of th boating magazines did some test to confirm this data, it was worse than they thought, I wish I still had that article, I've sure quoted it enough. I run three 2000 GPH pumps on my V, each one with a direct lead to a high amp(20) rated float switch and directly to a battery, I run an indirect on/off switch as well, two of the float switches are in the bottom of the bilge, I have indicator lights on these, the third flaot switch is raised bit off the floor and is hooked to an alarm and light. IF you think youhave enough pump capacity, next time you go to the ramp, leave the pug out when you back it in, see if your pump can over come the water coming in thur a 3/4 hole, imagine what a thru hull broken off, or even some kind of hull breach would allow in.  Oh and by the way, I've found the average life span for most pumps is about three years, just after the warranty runs out. Just food for thought 
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 X2 What Spare said.  The GPH rating system on pumps is well overstated.  I have one 1000 and one 1500 Rule's in the bilge of my 20.  One of the automatic switches is higher than the other.  I can put a 3/4" garden hose at 60 psi loose in the boat.  The first 1000 GPH pump comes on, pumps the water out and turns itself off.  If the second one kicks in a light and alarm sounds to warn of high water in the bilge.   I have heard the alarm during testing but never on the water.. I try to keep the bilge clean so nothing can jam the impeller.   I am OCD  about the pumps on this boat. When either one of them die, I am going to upsize again.  I started with an 800 and a 1000. 
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