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Kracker Jack 04-08-2012 08:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jasoncooperpcola (Post 187539)
All i have to say is, AWESOME JOB Kracker Jack!! :clap:
I just spent about two hours reading this whole thread. I learned alot.

I have a 1982 Wellcraft 18 Fisherman. The PO cut the liner all the way across about two foot ahead of the splashwell to do a transom repair, and now the liner is cracking where they halfass repaired it. So i may take the whole liner out and cap the gunnels with open sides. That alone may be enough to allow me put a bracket on the 18. :sun: AND raise the floor if i need to.

I have learned alot also!!! when I started this project I pretty much knew nothing about this kind of work. I owned my own buisness for 8 years doing residential remodle and light duty commercial work, so working with wood all my life and having what I like to call "VISION" made it pretty easy to catch on. I also did alot of studying and researching on the internet. Thank for the compliments. She gonna be battle ready soon I hope!!!

Kracker Jack 04-08-2012 08:23 PM

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Quote:

Originally Posted by reelapeelin (Post 187540)
Kracker that grate is awesome!!...I'm REEL glad ya decided to nix the splashwell!!...yer doin' a great job on this...EXCELLENT WORK!!...:clap:...fun to watch the progress!!...:sun:

Reel I have decided to put a removable transom type splash board in this boat. As you can see with the black lines i photo shopped in the picture shows that the board will span the whole beam port to starboard. Will be about 14 to 16 inches tall and will be offset to the transom side of the sump well allowing deck water to drain into the sumpwell. The splash board will also have garage door type rubber gasket under it to reduce fatigue on the floor and ultimately keep water that comes over the transom in the general area until it can wash into the sumpwell and be pumped out. The beautiful thing about this setup is that its removeable. I am going to be making in out of a 2 inch micro-lam beam that will be glass with 1708 to encapsulate.

Kracker Jack 04-08-2012 08:34 PM

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When you start a project evryone always has a vision of what they want there project to look like. I have had a vision of what my v20 was gonna look like since the day I saw it sitting in that cow pasture. Ironicly a guy On THT forum sent a picture of his v20 to my build thread after reading that I was gonna paint it fighting lady yellow and also paint the bottom white. when I looked at the picture of his boat I thought I was looking at a ghost!!!!! It looked exactly like I wanted my v20 to look like Except for some things which I photo shopped his picture tonight. I made the t-top white and instead of a black boat stripe I want a dual white boot stripe. Here is the picture I photo shopped. Its beautiful and is exactly how my rig will look when finished

reelapeelin 04-08-2012 08:54 PM

...and that Float On trailer is EXACTLY like mine except he's got smaller diameter wheels/tires...ghost pic for sure...

Kracker...no matter how the stern area of a boat is configured, the wrong wave at the wrong time can be a problem for ANY boat...but I'm lookin' at the sump-well open to the deck AHEAD of the splash-wall you propose and scratchin' my ol punkin head...if enough water comes over the tranny to fill
'er up, it's just gonna shoot up and out the sump-well in front of the wall, so it really doesn't accomplish much to install the wall...

Another question...is the sump-well open to receive water that'll get under the floor deck...if not, when water gets under the floor, where's it gonna go?...I'm afraid yer gonna tell me all that's sealed off and water cannot get in there...

Kracker Jack 04-08-2012 09:18 PM

That sump well is sealed off, theres gonna be one thru-transom drain plug in the sump. Im only gonna be fishing this boat in ideal conditions and no more than 15 0r 20 miles off the beach I seriously doubt I will ever be in a situation to were I take a rogue over the stern but i still I want the deck as sealed of as possible the only place water can get into the bilge is by the storage hatch forward at the bow, I want the boat to have a chance of popping up like a cork and rolling that water over the stern. In front of the sump well I will have a 7x11 pop up deck type hatch so I can access my rule bilge pump. I will also have a 500 gph or better in the sump well to pump transom and deck wash overboard.

reelapeelin 04-09-2012 05:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kracker Jack (Post 187563)
That sump well is sealed off, theres gonna be one thru-transom drain plug in the sump. Im only gonna be fishing this boat in ideal conditions and no more than 15 0r 20 miles off the beach I seriously doubt I will ever be in a situation to were I take a rogue over the stern but i still I want the deck as sealed of as possible the only place water can get into the bilge is by the storage hatch forward at the bow, I want the boat to have a chance of popping up like a cork and rolling that water over the stern. In front of the sump well I will have a 7x11 pop up deck type hatch so I can access my rule bilge pump. I will also have a 500 gph or better in the sump well to pump transom and deck wash overboard.


Kracker I don't want ya to think I'm raggin on ya...I'm actually envious of your skills, so take the following as food for thought...not criticism...I'm glad to hear yer gonna put a floor hatch ahead of the sump for bilge pump access...but at the same time on pump size; THINK BIGGER...500s are for bait tanks and paddle boats...a grand in the sump and a grand in the bilge are better selections...and even bigger won't hurt...
We took a 17'er 35 miles off Charleston one day and had perfect seas(as forecasted) until we were in sight (5 miles or so) of the jetties when we started taking waves over the windshield one of which took the hat off my head...and I bet ya Macojoe seriously doubted having his windshield destroyed and cockpit FILLED close shore either...some days, that's where the poop gets in the fan...I ain't waggin' a finger here...just tryin' to keep ya safe...

Kracker Jack 04-09-2012 08:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by reelapeelin (Post 187569)
Kracker I don't want ya to think I'm raggin on ya...I'm actually envious of your skills, so take the following as food for thought...not criticism...I'm glad to hear yer gonna put a floor hatch ahead of the sump for bilge pump access...but at the same time on pump size; THINK BIGGER...500s are for bait tanks and paddle boats...a grand in the sump and a grand in the bilge are better selections...and even bigger won't hurt...
We took a 17'er 35 miles off Charleston one day and had perfect seas(as forecasted) until we were in sight (5 miles or so) of the jetties when we started taking waves over the windshield one of which took the hat off my head...and I bet ya Macojoe seriously doubted having his windshield destroyed and cockpit FILLED close shore either...some days, that's where the poop gets in the fan...I ain't waggin' a finger here...just tryin' to keep ya safe...

Reel I completely agree with you on the pumps,I will drop and 1100 rule in the sump and in the bilge. The worst conditions I have ever been in was in my dads v20 during our small boat marlin tournament here out of va beach. And I been on my dads v20 and we have taken it where v20's don't belong, the furthest we fished my dads v was 58 miles off the beach up in the " Fingers" tuna and white marlin fishing with acid jugs filled with gas strapped to the console. And burning numerous external red moeller tanks on the way out. So yes you are right, conditions can change at the drop of a hat. Reel I always appreciate all your advice and thanks for all help and input.

spareparts 04-09-2012 08:56 AM

Kracker, I allways tell people to go at least 2000 on their primary pumps with teh 1 1/8 smooth wall hose, bilge pumps are rated with no hose, no head pressure, just free flow and at 18 V. WHen you drop it down to 12 v, your cutting flow by about a third, when you hook hose to it with any rise, it probably drops another third, its said that the corrigated hose cuts flow in half. Years ago, one of th boating magazines did some test to confirm this data, it was worse than they thought, I wish I still had that article, I've sure quoted it enough. I run three 2000 GPH pumps on my V, each one with a direct lead to a high amp(20) rated float switch and directly to a battery, I run an indirect on/off switch as well, two of the float switches are in the bottom of the bilge, I have indicator lights on these, the third flaot switch is raised bit off the floor and is hooked to an alarm and light. IF you think youhave enough pump capacity, next time you go to the ramp, leave the pug out when you back it in, see if your pump can over come the water coming in thur a 3/4 hole, imagine what a thru hull broken off, or even some kind of hull breach would allow in. Oh and by the way, I've found the average life span for most pumps is about three years, just after the warranty runs out. Just food for thought

Kracker Jack 04-09-2012 09:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by spareparts (Post 187576)
Kracker, I allways tell people to go at least 2000 on their primary pumps with teh 1 1/8 smooth wall hose, bilge pumps are rated with no hose, no head pressure, just free flow and at 18 V. WHen you drop it down to 12 v, your cutting flow by about a third, when you hook hose to it with any rise, it probably drops another third, its said that the corrigated hose cuts flow in half. Years ago, one of th boating magazines did some test to confirm this data, it was worse than they thought, I wish I still had that article, I've sure quoted it enough. I run three 2000 GPH pumps on my V, each one with a direct lead to a high amp(20) rated float switch and directly to a battery, I run an indirect on/off switch as well, two of the float switches are in the bottom of the bilge, I have indicator lights on these, the third flaot switch is raised bit off the floor and is hooked to an alarm and light. IF you think youhave enough pump capacity, next time you go to the ramp, leave the pug out when you back it in, see if your pump can over come the water coming in thur a 3/4 hole, imagine what a thru hull broken off, or even some kind of hull breach would allow in. Oh and by the way, I've found the average life span for most pumps is about three years, just after the warranty runs out. Just food for thought

Thanks for the info Spare. Me and you actually spoke about this bilge pump set up on the phone.

RidgeRunner 04-09-2012 10:24 AM

X2 What Spare said. The GPH rating system on pumps is well overstated. I have one 1000 and one 1500 Rule's in the bilge of my 20. One of the automatic switches is higher than the other. I can put a 3/4" garden hose at 60 psi loose in the boat. The first 1000 GPH pump comes on, pumps the water out and turns itself off. If the second one kicks in a light and alarm sounds to warn of high water in the bilge. I have heard the alarm during testing but never on the water.. I try to keep the bilge clean so nothing can jam the impeller. I am OCD about the pumps on this boat. When either one of them die, I am going to upsize again. I started with an 800 and a 1000.


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