Since you asked about aesthetics I would nix the rod holder idea. Have the rod holders welded to your t-top. Structurally every one you add will be stronger than my 81 that has stood the test of time through some heavy seas (not by choice). I would think your strength is in the gunnel cap.

If I think about it too long I could argue not putting them in there at all but I of course am no expert. I think I could argue reinforcing the bow to where the flare ends with layers of glass for rigidity and relying on the cap and floor for gunnel support.

Here are some more pics of the gunwale supports. My cap is gonna taper from a full 12 inches at the transom to 8 1/2 continueing thru out the rest of the boat, so my supports look like they do because of this. It still looks kinda funky to me but i think it will look better once the cap is on.

Yea im not gonna drill the holes for the holders.

paint and fair
 

Well I have a paint schedule finally. Im gonna be using all Interlux products starting on the bottom with a white VC PERFORMANCE EPOXY, moving up the sides with a epoxy primekote primer and Interlux Perfection Fighting Lady Yellow topcoat. The caps and inside will also be primed with epoxy primekote and top coated with Interlux perfection Artic White. Im also open to using a durabak 18 white bedliner for non skid or a Grizzly grip product. Im also gonna sandblast my t-top then use a Interlux prime wash and then prime with Interprotect 2000E epoxy primer with a finish coat of Perfection Artic White.

i have been experimenting with the 3m glass bubbles I bought, and making fairing compounds. I think its alot better to make your own rather than buying it and alot more cost effective. I can make 2 1/2 gallons of fairing compound for right at $115.00.

I was thinking about using those same rpoducts. I was going the sterling route until I priced it all up Friday and the tab came to $1300:oh: so I went back looking at a few different brands. Anyway, the only drawback to the VC for me was having to spray it. I read they said it can be applied with roll and tip but its not made for that. So I'm going to keep searching for a high-gloss hard bottom paint that I can roll and tip.

Are you spraying or are you going to try and roll it?

Oh I'm definitely spraying. I painted my skiff,my old 24ft seaox,and the Albemarle and a bunch of stuff. I'm pretty good with spray gun. I have a good friend who paints cars for a living and pretty much taught me how to spray

I'm gonna have right at $380.00 just in product,I don't think that's bad at all. I was given a free gps for the boat today so that opens the budget big time!

I made my chase box at the transom yesterday, and yes its boxy and yes its gonna hold water in that corner but i really dont have a choice. I had plans of building that splash box witch would have incoporated the chase box in the corner.

I also built and routered my ridgid teak grate over my sump well, I made it with some scrap teak that came off of an old bow rider that is scraped. It turned out awesome.

All i have to say is, AWESOME JOB Kracker Jack!! :clap:
I just spent about two hours reading this whole thread. I learned alot.

I have a 1982 Wellcraft 18 Fisherman. The PO cut the liner all the way across about two foot ahead of the splashwell to do a transom repair, and now the liner is cracking where they halfass repaired it. So i may take the whole liner out and cap the gunnels with open sides. That alone may be enough to allow me put a bracket on the 18. :sun: AND raise the floor if i need to.

Kracker that grate is awesome!!...I'm REEL glad ya decided to nix the splashwell!!...yer doin' a great job on this...EXCELLENT WORK!!...:clap:...fun to watch the progress!!...:sun: