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Allright that's enough eye splitting for now. Below the rubrail has never been painted or repaired. The top was repainted. Ya'll see what I've got to work with isn't too terrible.

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Uh...we're "Don't ask, don't tell" around here ;) ;D ...

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Some clean-up and TLC and you'll have a good one...I think your previous owner was related to my previous owner...mine's got exactly the SAME TWO THRU-HULL FITTIN'S as yours in the SAME TWO PLACES!!...SWEAR ;) ...

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I believe that's the way Granddaddy bought it with toilet (now removed).

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Priceless is the smile of a grandchild and your father complaning about your boat that he once owned. Work continues.

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It's all good...let it roll... ;) ...

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Thats what I have in mine, yes from the toilet!! But your look plastic?? I would change that!!

Rell is right a bit of elbow grease and you be good to go! ;)

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Amongst doing other things to da boat and having to putoff pouring glass this weekend, I decided to stick tires on the trailer instead. Being nosey I couldn't help looking at the bearings and greasing them. Of all things this axle is 2" square stock, milled at the spindles and step tapered from 1 1/4 to 3/4 for the bearings. Not to mention the dust cap is a small size about 1 25/32. Should of took pictures if this was unusual. Sorry, plenty of time to do later when I reposition the axle. :-/

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Oh, Jesus fricken Christ. If I were a cat I'd already be dead. Again got nosey and pulled the motor off to remove the aluminum transom cap, figured I could reseal it. More plundering I ended up removing the wood in the transom, the center was fine but the sides were nonexistant. Like daddy said you've gone this far can't stop now.

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Tsubaki...I sure hope ya keep postin' pix of this project...I'm thinkin' about this w/mone one day ;) :D ...


How do you work the spacer blocks after the pour?...

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Intending on glassing the hole this weekend. There are some things to be aware of if intending to do this and we're working the problems out as we go. Daddy has done this three times on other boats and we'll see if this is the best yet. My wifes 16'' Remington electric chain saw was instrimental in preforming the task.

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The spacer blocks were just an initial hold for the 5200 to the inside walls to the transom which will be removed when the "pour" will be done. There are a lot of other concerns as we go. As to not fill the assend full of resin but get a good balance between glass and cloth. Again this might be trial and error. The most important thing probably will be to maintain 2-2 1/8'' on the transom.

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You know the defination of insanity is preforming the same task over and over but yet expecting different results. If the wood rotted, why are you replacing with wood???

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Reel this is what we did sofar, please let me know if it don***8217;t make sense. First we cut the cap off with a small cutoff wheel. It seemed to kick up less dust and got in the corners.
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w...utoffwheel.jpg

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Then we dug out the transom with storebought and homemade tools, wifes 16***8221; electric chainsaw, prybar, flat chisel, flat scraper, lost tool or bolt grapple, shopvac with 1 ¼***8221; id hose extension.
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w...aki3/tools.jpg
Don***8217;t add oil to the chainsaw (figured if this works I can buy a new bar & chain), the flat scraper was cut on 45***8217; with a chopsaw and the weight alone did the work. 1 ¼***8221; auger bits and paddle bits with a drill motor were only used for some very fine work. We didn***8217;t cut or work above the rubrail, the rationalization was there is nothing structurally needed there plus it involves a lot more work.

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Once we got the old wood out we cut some ½” pieces of fiberglass panel for the area’s shown for a total of 5 panels to be inserted. * *
* * * * * * * *http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w...i3/Picture.jpg
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w...Picture028.jpg

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*Look into the bottom as you vacuum the junk out and you will see voids between the different steps of the hull. What we did was anything bigger than 1” we cut a 1/8” panel of fiberglass from an old boat project and 5200ed it to the opening (this was in 2 locations).
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w...Picture017.jpg

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As you seen earlier the shims used were to maintain 2-2 1/8” for the backsplash glued with 5200,
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w...Picture009.jpg
once this was done the only time other clamps were needed was when we worked up to within 4” of the transom, after that the glass had set so the clamps were no longer needed.

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We shimmed the glass panels with pieces of scuff abrasive that is usually used with floor sanders.
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w...Picture142.jpg
After plugging other cracks with the scuff pad we began the pour keeping the panels about center of inside and outside molded body.

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I know you ain’t going to have the panels I had, you can make them up ahead of time and probably do better than we did by making them about 1” thick and pouring glass between the hulls and panel. The inside of the transom was comprised of ¾ & ½” pieces of plywood which came to 1 ¼” inside thickness. I wouldn’t worry about trying to make the panels perfect, most of the strength need will be directly around the motor bolt on area. Once you pour and stuff cloth as a filler it will be fine. I calculated that it would take about 8 gallons of pure resin to fill the transom if no cloth was used. Just guessing if you built the panels you would need about 18yards of ¼ woven cloth and 6 gallons of resin.

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We kept pouring and packing until we got to the top of the backsplash then cut the cap into 3 pieces
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w...Picture021.jpg
and taped the lowest piece in place then moved to the sides pouring and packing as we went until we got level with the top of the sides and poured and packed and taped to keep it all in place. Oh don’t forget to tape under the backwash for escaping resin.
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w...Picture027.jpg
This is the cap after leveling with cloth and resin, so to not have cracks between the different hull molds.
I have to see what happens with the cleanup of adjacent areas before deciding on paint or Marine-Tex.

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wow thats some good work! Not sure I followed it all but looks good!

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I didn't have time to take pictures as we went so the reason for the after pictures being colored. Let me know what don't make sense. I'll also try to proof read and edit some of the posts.

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Great Pics. I got lost when you posted a pic. of that sqare piece of glass. You inserted them into the transom and then poured over them ??

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Yeah the picture before the square glass is the sizes of the square glass we cut to go in the transom. The red, blue and green outlines for a total of five pieces.
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w...i3/Picture.jpg

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And to make darn sure we filled the assend completely I cut a plug out with the Roto-Zip and drilled a 1 1/4'' hole in the direction of the backsplash and finished off pouring and packing.
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w...Picture026.jpg
Now all I have left is the purty up part.

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As if I didn't have enought to do.
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w...Picture032.jpg
Got annoyed that the Mariner needed a starter to check the compression (or at least cleaning the brushes) so we found another prospect. ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D

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Oh' to show that I can stay semi focused on the job at hand.
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w...Picture036.jpg

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Now I'm going to start cleaning the old painted portions and fill holes from all the other stuff I removed. :P

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Do you think this is USCG approved ?
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w...Picture040.jpg

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Why do you need an extra pump?

IMPO - the less electric around fuel, the better.

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No. Just didn't like the idea, so we installed what may have been the correct one(s).

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This is what we had to work with, except for the fact that the nipples were plugged off.
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w...Picture037.jpg