This is the view of my boat I had to look at all day 54 degrees outside and rainy on my day off. What crock of crap!!!!!!I guess im just gonna have to pull her over to my dads and put her in the shop for the winter so i can keep her dry and leaf free.

repairing some holes in the console cut my ply to fit then glued the in with a resin woodflour mix. They tightened up solid as a rock.


Here is the transom configuration im gonna go with. I realize you all want me to put a 25" transom on this boat, I just can't afford to buy a new 25" inch motor when i have 2 perfectly running 135hp's. So to get the best of both worlds I'm gonna set my transom up like this with a 20" inch transom and then glass in a sump well with a wall kinda like this. Any opinions?

No opinion on the transom..(I just don't know enough to make an intelligent comment).. But that's a really nice repair job on the console!!! :clap:

So to tie my sole to the existing liner I made some ledgers or blocks to glue to the hull. I also did alot of gelcoat removal today(what a pain in the a$$!!!!!)Any advice from this point on is welcome.

Long winded apology in advance.
 

Grinding job looks Fantastic.. Console looks good too. Stringers have to go in before the sole. :hi: Advice takes all forms.. You got a lot of glassing to do. Transom, Stringers then sole. I like the idea of a nice splashwell on 20" transoms. The factory thought so too. Your V should sit high in the water with the 135 so no big deal.
Layup schedule for the transom. You have the plywood if I remember correctly. Make a pattern out of cardboard or whatever, cut the plywood out and dry fit. Rough up the plywood then laminate the plywood together to get the thickness desired using 2 layers of CSM in between pieces and weight down until dry. Trim the edges and then putty or glass the plywood in place. I found a fiberglass shop that allowed me use of their transom clamps. Another way to hold it together is to clamp where you can and drill through the outside of the transom and use screws to pull the core tight against the outer skin where normal clamps won't reach. Remove and fill the screw holes after dry. There will also be the original mounting holes for the motor. You can find some long bolts, fit the core exactly where it needs to be, drill the bolt holes in the core using the factory holes as a pattern and then use a piece of scrap 1x4 or 2x4 on the inside to squeeze the core against the outer skin. You may end up with a combination of all of the above and/or more. If you use putty try and wipe up excess and/or use putty to fillet the edges and transitions. Once the transom kicks and you remove the clamps you can grind the edges reinforce the perimeter (sides and bottom) with one layer of medium weight 8" or 10" wide tape and one layer of 1708, wet on wet and allow the 1708 to overlap the sides by 6-8". Heavier layups are OK but I would try to incorporate some transom knees when I was making up the stringers. Wherever the stringers touch the transom and inside hull bottom in the back will need to be lightly ground again to facilitate glassing but only at those attachment points and 12" on either side.
The sole and stringers: Need to figure from the topside down to get the correct stringer/sole height. Run some string from the freshly ground floor port to stbd. then make the stringers short of that by the thickness of the core you are using in the floor and don't forget to reduce the height of the stringers by the anticipated thickness of the glass on top of the stringers and bottom of floor if you plan to glass that too. ie, floor core thickness 3/4" + glass on top of stringers 1/8" + glass on floor bottom 1/16" + fudge factor of 1/16" to 1/8" = Stringer height 1 1/16" below your strings from stem to stern. Easier to build up a stringer than to take one down so the fudge factor. Wellcraft attached my liner to the top of the stringers with fiberglass putty. If you go the same route the sole should lay real close to flush with the top of your floor so you can glass the top of your floor and your sole to your existing side pieces in one visit. Where is Skool and the glassmen. I want another opinion. LOL.

Out of all the glass guys on here I was expecting SKooLS to respond! Lol! He seems like he is.very knowledgible on this subject. My knee boards are gonna be incoporated on my strigers at the transom to also incorporate my motor well . I'm also gonna use one of my large fish boxes that I salvaged out of my existing floor to make a new sump well at the transom. Ridge thanks for all the help I'm comfortable applying the material but I'm just not sure what material is best suitable at some stages. Once again thanks to everyone for the help.

well today is the day that I install and glass my new transom!!!!!! Im sitting here drinking some coffe waiting for the temp to come up, Its suppose to be 65 here in va beach today. I will take plenty of pictures and document all stages. im gonna be using the allthread method drilling holes through the outer skin and through the core and tighten them down to clamp core and glue them together at once. and a thickened resin between core layer and outer skin and core with a 1/4 inch knotch trowel to distribute thickened resin on the surfaces. Wish me luck fellas!!!!:beer:

Sometimes we make our own luck. Sounds to my like you have this one covered already without any luck involved. Just take your time and you'll be fine. Remember to have your wife take pics of you and the transom. That way you don't get resin on the camera. :head:

everything went awesome today!!!! I am an amatuer at this and if i have any word of advice to someone who is replacing the transom or the sole in a boat is to build the project in your head over and over before you start!!! make sure all needed materials are close and ready at hand. It makes everything go so much easier. My transom core install today went perfect. Pictures will be up soon.:sun:

I did some other stuff today. After glueing and plugging my holes for my console I laid a single layer of 1.5 CSM over the plugs and then faired with 3M premium. I also rebuilt a corner of my console that was cracked.

Well I clamped her in every spot I could!!!!! I only did one layer of ply because I wanted to do it one layer at a time and did'nt want my my work to get ahead of me. Im going to soak dowl rod with resin and then run the dowls rods through my clamping holes when the laminating is complete. I cut relief cuts in my plywood in 4 spots to allow the ply to conform to the outer skin I then filled the relief cut with thickened resin. I am very happy with the way the first piece turned out. Im going to clean out one of the garage bays at my dads friday so i can pull the boat in there saturday ITS GONNA GET COLD!!!!!

good work i need to do the same thing excect on an inboard and the floor from 1foot in front of the motor cover back this post helped alot

Kracker...could you use an apprentice??...you're doin' the kind of stuff I'd like to learn...wish you were closer...looks fun!!...nice work...:clap:

[QUOTE=mike77v20;182960]good work i need to do the same thing excect on an inboard and the floor from 1foot in front of the motor cover back this post helped alot[/

Mike where in Chesapeake do you live? Have you started your repair yet?

REEL Im just as new at this as anybody. I have done alot of research. And of course I fell upon this really awesome website called WELLCRAFTV20.COM!!!!!!!!!!!! that has helped out ALOT!!!! I would'nt have the motivation if it were'nt for this site and all you V lovers on here.

Well I set the second layer of core yesterday here are some pictures. Of me prepping and of install.

more pics.

yeah but what are you gonna do if you ever need a ladder for something?:nut:


LOL.... looking good

OHHH Im not lacking in the walkboard and ladder department!!! lol!!!

Nice work. Lots of quality grinding to get where you are now. I really like the way your planning on glassing the top of the transom. Clean too. First time? You are a natural.

Well guys the temp is gonna be 65 degrees tomorrow so I will be taking half the day off from work and glassing my inner skin. Im sure there will be a beer or two drank also.:beer:

Gettn her done!!!!!

Babysitting a transom tonight!!!!!!! Temps dropped down to 44 degrees tonight with rain following soon!!!! I put halogens on it and a tarp, cross your fingers!!

hey
 

we will be in va beach late sunday till tuesday I will txt u or call would like to stop by monday night. talk to you later

Sounds good dude!! I will have a cold beer waiting for ya!!!

Today I will be setting up the stringers. Im now at what I like to consider the fun part!!!! That transom yesterday wetting out 2 20"x17" motor or "bolt" patches under 2 layers of 1708 about whooped my @$$!!!! The layup came out clear with no bubbles so Im very proud of myself. The bubble buster came in handy and is definetly need when doing work like this. This boat is really starting to take shape and Im not lacking in motivation!!!!!

hey
 

looking good i have mine all the way apart taking top off tomorrow and begin demolition i have pics just trying to figure out how to get them from my phone straight to here

:head:I take pics with my phone and then send them to my email. After they show up on my email I then download them to my computer. After that i go to my thread and open up the comment or reply to thread window. Then click on that paper clip icon on the tool bar next to the smiley face. your picture download window will then open. Click browes and your commputer options for pictures window will open double click your picture of choice.click up load on your picture download window and your done.

Did I explain that right

sounds good can i put up multiple pics

Here are some pics from yesterday. I set the stringers up yesterday and glued them today. Notice on my inner skin on my transom the dark color glass in the middle where the motor mounts, thats because a guy off the HULL TRUTH recomended me to put that 2 layer of 1708 patch there for load purposes. I still have one more layer of 1708 to put on the transom but im gonna wait till I glass the stringers to the transom first so the last layer of 1708 kinda locks the stringer tabs in. The last picture is of the resin soaked dowels I put through my all-thread holes that I used to clamp my plywood. My next step is to glue and screw my stringer cleats on then glass in my stringers!!!!! fun fun fun!!!

stringer question
 

on your old stringers were they straight to the outer shell mine were an a sixteenth to an eighth off the shell so far im stuck on what to do about the two boxes and getting them out:clap:looking good :beer:

Pic of bedded and glued stringers, And pic of cap getting prepped for lamination of 3/4 inch ply on top of existing 1/2 inch. I want to beef up the cap a little more.

Keep up the good work
 

Kracker:

Can't see in your lastest pics, but I assume you have weep holes aft to allow and water to drain the the garboard plug? It also looks like your center stringer aft 90 is solid. You might want to notch the corner so water can drain from either side "JUST IN CASE"

Keep up the good work!

Kamikaze

Kamikaze I forgot to cut my 1/4 circles in my main at the transom. I glued them down and 20 minutes later I had a ahh **** moment!!!! I'm gonna end up cutting them with my rotoo zip tool on Thursday then glass a small strip of 1.5 csm on under edge to water proof. Thanks for looking out.

This question is for all you structual guys on here. I was thinking about returning my glass over my cap and tie it into the outside hull down the side about 2 or 3 inches. Is this a wise move? there is a reason why factory did not glass the insert or cap or guwals to the side of the boat. I personally think if I glass the cap in this manner to the side of the boat it will be a constant flex and crack issue ultimately leading to an astetic eye sore . Any opinions would be awesome. As you can see in the picture my cap is made of wood which Im gonna laminate a nother piece of 3/4 acx to to beef it up. Im then going to band the inside edge and outside edge with 3/8 acx router all edges and then glass with 2 layers of 1.5 csm. would this be a proper schedule for this application or should I go with one layer of 1708?

ok i see mine is made a lil diff i have no cap unless it rotted away and how do i get the fish boxes out without messing up my step into cuddy to lhe left is the step down and middle is the box and far right is the other box

im gonna move this over to your thread look there for my idea on box removal.

you have no cap like this one. this one was hand made and built

no i have a big glass one that just gets screwed to the hull i have to replce the plywood in it to its rotten in the back and over the cuuddythis boat was just not well maintained and they just screwed whatever they wanted to where ever they wanted to and i went and joined the hull truth to get some more info

Lookin' good Kracker Jack! great thread, very informative Thanks!