Wellcraft V20 Community - Evinrude 1987 140 v4 Rebuild

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- Repairs (https://forums.wmpdevserver1.com/community/forumdisplay.php?f=16)

- - Evinrude 1987 140 v4 Rebuild (https://forums.wmpdevserver1.com/community/showthread.php?t=13203)

captkern

06-27-2010 04:24 PM

That is coming out nice! My 1987 140 has had everything rebuilt also. Makes it interesting to get parts. Everything under the cowling is a 1994...so you have to be creative buying parts. The only thing I needed to change was a rectifier, which e-bay helped also. Keep the photos coming.

Skools Out

06-27-2010 06:50 PM

clean the paint out of the reed holes and off the upper main bearing or you'll have issues. never paint fuel passages the fuel breaks down the paint and then the paint gums up the cylinders on 2 strokes and can result in burnt pistons. clean the intake inside where you got paint in it.

nymack66

06-27-2010 08:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Skools Out (Post 159621)

Thanks very good point ..I will use some acetone and wipe it off ..

THEFERMANATOR

06-27-2010 09:29 PM

Also if you redo the lower don't get any paint inside where oil is at or else it will come off as well.

nymack66

06-28-2010 09:45 PM

nymack66

06-28-2010 09:46 PM

Destroyer

06-28-2010 11:13 PM

Lookin good!!!:clap:

nymack66

10-20-2010 08:07 PM

Oh well the hot days of summer are over, I am back working on this engine.
I have since fill in the holes the previous owner drilled on the lower unit, I filled it with JB weld and sanded it down, zinc applied and this weekend is painting time.
I will have the entire MID & LU painted and fully assembled by next weekend. It was way to hot for me to work on this engine in the summer, the excuse is now over back to work.
Holes shown
http://i822.photobucket.com/albums/z...DSCF0029-1.jpg

JB WELD neatly applied :)
Nice new camera to snap pictures to boot ...

http://i822.photobucket.com/albums/z...01020-0827.jpg

Little sanding and re shoot looks awesome

http://i822.photobucket.com/albums/z...h_IMG_0049.jpg

nymack66

10-25-2010 07:09 PM

1 Attachment(s)

Oh well technical difficulties, the bloody paint refuses to dry, hopefully it cures in a couple of days. I may have laid it on too thick?
I could have sworn I did it correctly per instructions, low humidity nice 80 plus degrees..Who knows technical support promise me it will cure over a couple of days...
Sure self levels as promise ...

RidgeRunner

10-26-2010 08:37 AM

Looks like a new one to me. I need to get to the Merc and do the same thing. My cowl needs help. Last time it was painted by previous owner they painted over the decals. They painted over the barnacles on the mid and lower too. No sanding, no filler, no joke a really crappy job. But they purchased the really expensive automotive paint, I just don't get why they didn't spend an hour to prep it right. Keep up the good work NYMACK.

nymack66

11-02-2010 09:55 AM

Thanks for the kind words Ridge, Its Official my rookie mistake cost me time and money. I have all the parts back into the media blasting shop. This paint turns out to be a lot of bologna after all. I am mad at myself for NOT painting one part first and test, with that said, who ever dream a paint will NOT dry?
http://supermarinepaint.com/bottom-r...on-SM-1000.asp

Skools Out

11-02-2010 11:07 AM

nymack66

11-02-2010 11:13 AM

Thanks Skools its exactly what I was thinking, I felt like just got carried away with the paint thing. Your results are amazing. I will do as you recommend. Hopefully mine looks as nice !!
I will have to zinc prime again and shoot ....

THEFERMANATOR

11-02-2010 11:24 AM

The only drawback to engine paint is that it doesn't have alot of UV resistance to it. I've done a few with it, and after a year or 2 it was fading pretty noticeably. I've had real good luck with the TEMPO engine paint that most marine stores carry though. If you do use engine paint, shoot some clear over it to help it with the sunlight fading.

Skools Out

11-02-2010 11:26 AM

Skools Out

11-02-2010 11:30 AM

oh yeah did you notice the cans of clear in the bag i cleared that motor 4 coats and it had 6 coats of white. the Evinrude was a base dark blue with a met. blue over it then cleared. it was marked 120 for 2 reasons the motor was a Johnson 140 and i have a 120 Evinrude with no use so i used the hood lettering plus the boat was rated for only 135 hp lol.

nymack66

11-02-2010 11:33 AM

Thanks Guy's I will check Advance Auto, I must admit I like the way the Blue looks on the 120 ..Nice work ..

nymack66

11-03-2010 01:01 PM

Here is an interesting spin ..I phone there technical support, which recommend I read the "manufacture" instructions.
Here is what I found just added..I know this because I NEVER saw this posted before! I will give it a shot again as test run. I bet I violated the WFT the reason its not drying.

Finish Coats: Fiberglass, Aluminum & Steel: Professionally applied spray coat applications yield superior results, however Revolution levels exceptionally well in brush and roll applications. Unless you are experienced with spray equipment the best way for the do it yourselfer is to apply Revolution is by roller coat. When properly thinned in appropriate temperatures (SM-101 Thinner 15%-25%) Revolution levels exceptionally well. It had a good defoamer “bubble popping additive” so the need for tipping is eliminated. Aside from spraying, which offers the best film thickness control, rolling is often the best way to achieve the recommended wet film thickness, 2 mils WFT (Wet Film Thickness). The recommended DFT is 3.4 mils. Applications applied too thickly may not adhere or level properly, run, sag and take days, or even weeks to cure. Always adhere to the manufacturers recommended WFT and DFT (Dry Film Thickness)!

Revolution must always be stirred or shaken thoroughly before use. It may be brushed, rolled or sprayed utilizing conventional and HVLP spray equipment. The solid content is exceptionally high so thinning will be necessary in most applications. The amount of thinner required will vary depending on ambient temperature, type of equipment used, method of application, humidity, color and amount of control desired and tip size in spray applications. We suggest beginning with minimum dilution at first and increasing dilution as needed subject to your individual application requirements.

Revolution may be built up to achieve a higher DFT where desired. Two, three or more thin coats are acceptable to achieve the recommended DFT. Boot and bottom stripes should always be applied over top of the recommended DFT. For best results recoat within 24-48 hours or sand between applications. Allow top coat film to cure thoroughly before allowing it to enter full service duty. The recommended minimum cure time is 7 days under most conditions. DO NOT allow newly applied paint to get wet for a minimum of 48 hours. The dry cured film may be wet sanded and buffed to remove runs and blemishes.

nymack66

02-22-2011 02:54 PM

Moving along beyond painting. Here is where I am at the moment. I will have the cylinders hone, rods check at the machine shop.
Notice the scratches and miss spots on the paint? I will do final shoot this weekend. I have to clean up all the excessive grease off the bolts heads during the assembly process.
I ran taps through all the treads after the media blasting.
I am working on the Cowling and lower pans this weekend.
Some pictures ....
http://i822.photobucket.com/albums/z...n/IMG_0077.jpg

http://i822.photobucket.com/albums/z...n/IMG_0076.jpg
I am sure what the the deal is here with the primer coat but rest assured it will not be tolerated...
http://i822.photobucket.com/albums/z...g/IMG_0085.jpg

THEFERMANATOR

02-22-2011 03:12 PM

Don't worry about getting paint down inside of the exhaust ports as it won't hurt it. I would clean up the driveshaft though as paint build up there can cause problems later on as well as clean off the surface where the powerhead bolts down as I've seen em leak there as well.

nymack66

02-22-2011 03:44 PM

Will do Ferm thanks

nymack66

02-23-2011 02:27 PM

Anyone knows the reason for the foam under the cowling? Is it just insulation or is there more to it?
I personally remove it completely because it was all falling apart, my thought process is this loose foam will clog my carbs since there is no air filter!
I was thinking to re-lined it using AC heat shield stuff found at Lowes? or should I run her naked like my current motor?
Pictures of the foam removed, I will sand her down and paint it this weekend..
http://i822.photobucket.com/albums/z...g/IMG_0074.jpg

http://i822.photobucket.com/albums/z...g/IMG_0075.jpg

Blue_Runner

02-23-2011 03:48 PM

Doing a good job there mack. I think the cowling insulation is just noise reduction but I may be wrong. I'm sure there's no less than 100 different materials you could use to accomplish replacing it.....then there's always the option not replacing it too!

I would love to tear one down and build from the ground up like that. You'll be the resident expert when done. We're going to start asssociating you with hall of famers like Skools, Ferm and Spare. :party:

RidgeRunner

02-23-2011 04:28 PM

Just for noise control, some have it, some don't. The insulation is gone on my 90 Johnson and the Merc too. You are right to be concerned about sucking the foam thru the carbs. Happened to a bassin friend of mine. Some of the foam pieces got hung in the reeds on his 225 EFI.
You are actually gonna paint the inside of the cowl? I thought I was anal... :haha: Keep up the good work. :party:

nymack66

02-23-2011 10:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Blue_Runner (Post 168317)

Skools, Ferm and Spare are my mentors, without the there knowledge and input I would have dump my V a long time ago..During my trials and tribulations with my Frankenstein motor and hull...

nymack66

02-23-2011 10:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RidgeRunner (Post 168319)

I know the picture does not show it, but the fiberglass is loose on the inside kind dusty, painting it will laminate it and minimize the dusting of the engine during operation.
This was an experience I found out on my current running engine, I remove the cowling and observe loose dust all over my engine, this was when I found the loose foam, I removed it and paint it...Looks excellent the last time I checked ...

nymack66

02-27-2011 11:16 PM

nymack66

02-27-2011 11:26 PM

Cowling inside all cleaned up before painting ...Acetone not yet used ...I will be using a brush on the Cowling inside, I hate the blow back from the spray gun ...

http://i822.photobucket.com/albums/z...g/f5157829.jpg

http://i822.photobucket.com/albums/z...g/c5b4a732.jpg

nymack66

03-13-2011 09:13 PM

2 Attachment(s)

Moving along ...Shot the inside lower pans today came out excellent..Never shoot white paint in direct sunlight, I mange to create a few runs on the outside which I have to sand and re-shoot not a big deal but ....

nymack66

04-08-2011 09:53 AM

3 Attachment(s)

Some more Engine porn. I now have the Block in the shop getting honed. Any recommendations on re-build kits anyone? I have seen some on Ebay or I may go with http://www.powerheadexchange.com/ they sold me my re-build power-head which is on my Boat.

THEFERMANATOR

04-08-2011 10:25 AM

http://www.promarineusaonline.com/

There just south of Tampa Bay in Palmetto and supply the parts in most all of teh rebuild kits out there. I'm not a big fan of there pistons in a performance app, but stock they are as good or better than OEM. GLM or MSM make really nice coated cast pistons if you want to spend teh extra money.

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