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-   -   Picked up today (https://forums.wmpdevserver1.com/community/showthread.php?t=12875)

charlie_the_tuna 10-02-2009 07:59 PM

hey nothing, where are you on long island? i'm in long beach.

NOTHING ELSE MATTERS 10-03-2009 12:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BenFishin (Post 148895)
I miss read where you said you had removed the cap. and it did look like it had been wet at one time. Did you test it for moisture tho? Drill a hole see what the wood looks like?

Yeah, i did the moisture meter thing and also the knife point thing on all holes, wood is dry and strong everywhere, the transom is really solid.

NOTHING ELSE MATTERS 10-03-2009 12:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dmoore (Post 148904)
Congrats on the new family member! Looks like she's in good hands alright...keep us posted! Dave

Thanks, i'm trying to work a little everyday on the boat, but i'm really bussy with work and don't have a lot time.

NOTHING ELSE MATTERS 10-03-2009 12:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by charlie_the_tuna (Post 148912)
hey nothing, where are you on long island? i'm in long beach.

Queens and Greenport. I got this boat so i can explore the south side, my other boat is in Southold.

bksah2 10-03-2009 06:49 AM

Boat looks great
I also picked up a 1989 v and the transom looks likethat also,,, at first i was worried but i have beat on it and touged up and down on the motor and see no movement on the glass ..My question ,,is the fiberglass supposed to be seperated there on the transom,, is that where the mold was....Thanks

NOTHING ELSE MATTERS 10-03-2009 06:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bksah2 (Post 148927)
Boat looks great
I also picked up a 1989 v and the transom looks likethat also,,, at first i was worried but i have beat on it and touged up and down on the motor and see no movement on the glass ..My question ,,is the fiberglass supposed to be seperated there on the transom,, is that where the mold was....Thanks

Yes, this is where the cap(top section of the boat) meets the hull. Wellcraft had some kind of putty in between, then a plastic cap to look nice. This is the number one cuase of water intrusion(thank god my transom looks and feels solid), so what i did was removed tha putty, filled with resin and chopped glass, smoothed with epoxy filler(west system 407), then apply glass. I just finished doing that actually. I will post some pics later.

bksah2 10-03-2009 06:57 PM

WOW,,, of all places to have a gap ,that has got to be the worse place ..Like i said earler I just got the boat and was suprise when i pulled back the medal cap to see the gap ..I hit the transom all around and its solid however i am going to drill a few very small holes to check for water (should that be done from the inside or outside or does it not mater ) ,,i read that you guys also use a meter where do you get them from...

NOTHING ELSE MATTERS 10-03-2009 07:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bksah2 (Post 148943)
WOW,,, of all places to have a gap ,that has got to be the worse place ..Like i said earler I just got the boat and was suprise when i pulled back the medal cap to see the gap ..I hit the transom all around and its solid however i am going to drill a few very small holes to check for water (should that be done from the inside or outside or does it not mater ) ,,i read that you guys also use a meter where do you get them from...

You don't have to drill more holes if you have a transducer installed, just remove it with a hand screwdriver and inspect the screws for water marks/rust and also see if you have any water coming out, then you have the bolts from the swim platform, remove those also(the ones under the water line). The meter i bought it from a woodworking magazine,i think it was 100 or 150 bucks, i use it at work a lot to check the wood we getting.

NOTHING ELSE MATTERS 10-03-2009 07:49 PM

I've been busy trying to finish this boat, so the last couple of days i removed and cleaned the gas tank in and out and also getting new hoses and fittings.

http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/g...0/DSC01762.jpg

http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/g...0/DSC01765.jpg

Also had to fix the gas tank hatch, it felt soft when stepping on it, so i remove the core material and to my surprise the core was honeycomp style PAPER :oh:, never seen that before and was soaked in water(sorry no picture of that) so removed it and epoxied a 3/4 plywood secured with epoxy resin and filler, then epoxied the underside of it, looks pretty strong now.
http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/g...0/DSC01766.jpg

http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/g...0/DSC01767.jpg

http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/g...0/DSC01771.jpg

Also finished with a layer of cloth the transom gap.

http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/g...0/DSC01768.jpg
http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/g...0/DSC01769.jpg
http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/g...0/DSC01770.jpg

Starts to look good.

I

bksah2 10-03-2009 08:52 PM

Was it tough to get the gas tank out I here it is packed in foam

bksah2 10-04-2009 07:19 AM

Did you find the foam to be wet

NOTHING ELSE MATTERS 10-04-2009 08:59 PM

No, it was not hard to remove at all. It had foam on te top portion of the perimeter so what i did was used a hack saw blade and cut it loose.
Foam was not wet.
Any body knows if the foam were using is it closed cell? (does not absorb water).

NOTHING ELSE MATTERS 11-28-2009 09:17 PM

I've been doing some work on the V lately, can't go full throtle, i've been busy with work. Anyway, besides changing all wires, removed live well(what a huge space under it), changing location of second battery(under the live well), also in the same location i installed the raw water washdown pump, battery charger and the second battery.
I remove part on the original console and made a new one to fit my gauges, switches and GPS.
http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/g...0/DSC01780.jpg
http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/g...0/DSC01781.jpg
http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/g...0/DSC01782.jpg
http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/g...0/DSC01803.jpg

Also painted the side rod holder boxes, they came out much better that expected.
http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/g...0/DSC01783.jpg
http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/g...0/DSC01784.jpg
http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/g...0/DSC01791.jpg
http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/g...0/DSC01795.jpg

NOTHING ELSE MATTERS 11-28-2009 09:21 PM

For some reason some of the pics i took today they came out.............. green? I don't know why.

willy 11-28-2009 10:07 PM

Nice work, the pics come out green cause you have to adjust your digital for fluorescent lighting.

NOTHING ELSE MATTERS 11-28-2009 10:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by willy (Post 150910)
Nice work, the pics come out green cause you have to adjust your digital for fluorescent lighting.

I never had to before, besides, i took some pics outside with the same results ?????????

willy 11-28-2009 11:56 PM

fluorescents cause green, incandescents cause red. If you got green outside you might have had the setting wrong for daylight. I don't know but that is how photography works. also if you had red eye setting and flash with daylight it can cause odd happenings. You have to check the settings for the lighting you are using, especially with digital. If you leave it on auto sometimes it reads wrong and sets the lighting wrong.

bksah2 11-29-2009 01:19 AM

Wow love the dash and gauges I have an older 200hp yamaha (1989)with the ditial gauges ,,i see you converted to the analog style gauges so i got to ask,, was it hard to convert back to the analog gauges and is there any way i can get a simple drawing of how you done it

NOTHING ELSE MATTERS 11-29-2009 01:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bksah2 (Post 150915)
Wow love the dash and gauges I have an older 200hp yamaha (1989)with the ditial gauges ,,i see you converted to the analog style gauges so i got to ask,, was it hard to convert back to the analog gauges and is there any way i can get a simple drawing of how you done it

I have not connect anything yet, the only gauge that has to be connected to the harness is the tach(the digital) which gives RPMS, hours, trim position, oil level indicator and high water temp idiot light/warning, the rest of the gauges get connected to the motor with senders. When i finish i'll try to post the way i connected them.
I like the analog gauges better because i can see the needle better than trying to press the mode button on the digital to check voltage, temp, fuel level, etc.
I also got the fuel management that connects on the Lowrance and gives a whole bunch of info on the GPS screen.

phatdaddy 11-29-2009 10:25 AM

NEM. maybe i overlooked it, but why the two temp gauges? i have always wanted to chop off my dash and make some room for larger electronics. i am sure when these boats were built in the 80's they never imagined the amount of goodies that would be available to the average boater..

NOTHING ELSE MATTERS 11-29-2009 05:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by phatdaddy (Post 150919)
NEM. maybe i overlooked it, but why the two temp gauges? i have always wanted to chop off my dash and make some room for larger electronics. i am sure when these boats were built in the 80's they never imagined the amount of goodies that would be available to the average boater..

Water temp. gauge and cylinder head temp.


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