why do you change the fluid? you shouldn't change the fluid in a GM trans as they will tend to shorten their lives. My L80 never had the fluid changed till the torque converter got noisey, that was at 218,000 miles. the trans shop plus 2 ASE Cert. said don't change it as long as your fluid stays red and clean run it. if the fluid gets dark then you have an issue in the trans. I changed it in 3 other of my GM products in the past all had short lives afterwards. On a trans go with the old rule if it ain't broke don't fix it. just change the trans fluid in the transfer case when it tends to clunk from stop lights.

Actually, my wife's CR-V has to have the fluid changed every 36,000 miles.
HONDA knows of the problem, put out a service bulletin that admits the problem,
but will only pay for one change, after that we have to pay.

lol that's a rice burner though not a GM trans

im sure those techs knwo what they are talking about but it doesnt seem to make any sense to me. you only change half of the total fluid anyway and i dont think a filter would hurt anything. in my case my trans was making noise before and after so i dont know

there's fluid in certain areas they stay in place and hold valves in place but once you drain the pan then if the chance those vlaves move due to no fluid they might go the wrong way then keep fluid in incorrect areas of your trans which then cause's it to die fast and early, the rule is in 3,000 miles after the fluid change you will either still be running or pushing. don't you think if they wanted or thought the fluid needed changing they would have installed a drain plug? there's no drain plug in a trans on the GM stuff.

Many of GM's trucks came with drain plugs after 97, and my ALLISON DEFINATELY has one. I for one personally believe in changing the fluid AND filter every 30K for a daily driver, and every 15-20K for a vehicle that gets worked. I've seen WAY too many GM trannies get diagnosed as bad or fail because of lack of maintence. And when I was at DODGE you could tell if one hadn't been changed by how loud they were on a cold start. After about 40K miles the tranny will howl on a cold start if the fluid hadn't been changed. The problem with fluid changes is if you haven't kept up on it by the book, then don't do em at all. Once you go more than 30K without a fluid and filter change you will get particle build-up inside the valve body. If you change the fluid and filter after this has gotten built up, the fresh additives in the new fluid will almost certainly clean that build up out and deposit it in areas you don't want it.

[QUOTE=THEFERMANATOR;The problem with fluid changes is if you haven't kept up on it by the book, then don't do em at all. Once you go more than 30K without a fluid and filter change you will get particle build-up inside the valve body. If you change the fluid and filter after this has gotten built up, the fresh additives in the new fluid will almost certainly clean that build up out and deposit it in areas you don't want it.[/QUOTE]


thats pretty much the mantra i use for them. i was only at 30K after the rebuild when i changed the fluid.

Good job Therm. I dont know crap about working on vehicle.

Latest update.

Progress had to slow down unfortunately this weekend as I had honey dos on Saturday and my asthma flared up yesterday. I did get to work on it for about 4 1/2 hours on Friday and was able to get the top half of the engine tore down. This engine is nowhere near as hard to work on as I thought it would be, or maybe the fact mine is on a stand makes a difference. The passenger side head gasket at the rear most coolant passage was just beginning to leak as I had the nice white chalk line on the back of the block below the gasket, and you can see the rust line in the pics on the gasket and the block. Also found that cylinder #2 was showing signs of washing down from fuel and the injector tip on that cylinder was pretty rough. 1 glow plug is burned out and 2 others look rough as well. I pulled the injectors apart and cleaned them with some spray cleaner to see what makes em tick inside, and they are actually pretty simple internally.

Here's the engine with the heads off.
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t...n/HPIM0920.jpg

The heads on the bench with the injector cups out.
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t...n/HPIM0918.jpg

right side gasket at the rear.
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t...n/HPIM0919.jpg

And the block in that spot.
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t...n/HPIM0923.jpg

This picture shows how #2 showed signs of a leaking injector as the bottom of the piston is very clean.
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t...n/HPIM0921.jpg

This may explain part of GM's troubles. This is the turbo intake horn gasket, that big ole MOPAR box for that little gasket.
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t...n/HPIM0917.jpg

And the innards of the infamous LB7 injectors.
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t...n/HPIM0924.jpg
You have the nozzle, a needle valve that rides inside of the nozzle, then the plunger that rides against the needle valve and the return spring and the spring seat that sits inside of the injector body. Inside of the injector body is a metal tab that protrudes through the spring and this is what pulls the plunger back to let the needle valve open and allow fuel through. And the 2 little pins are the locating pins that hold the nozzle in place to prevent it from turning. My camera couldn't focus on the insides or else I would have put up a pic of that as well. When I pulled it apart the needle valve was just about frozen into the injector nozzle body and required soaking to come apart. Once apart it cleans easily with spray cleaner and I re-assembled with marvel mystery oil. Debating on wether or not to replace them or have these tested and run them.

man diesel engines rock.

I've been slacking a bit lately on updating this thread over here, so I'll try and bring it up to speed. And now that my wedding is over I can hopefully get back on this full time and get er done.

Things still going slowly as my money will be tied up until the middle of MAYhttp://www.dieseltowingresource.com/...ilies/mad2.gif. I've got my gasket sets coming along with head bolts, glow plugs(3 were bad), water pump, and will order my injectors when my money gets freed up again. I also got my trans kit and ordered my ALTO clutches and TRANSGO parts, and will get my precision converter next month as well. Found out you can piece a SC3 together on your own for under $700 VS suncoasts $965. I'l also be ordering my EFILIVE as soon as money is available as well. Also picked up my manual shift transfer case on TUESDAY from ORANGE CITY while I was out picking up my left side head gasket(GM is on backorder for left side grade B's, but a dealer in OCALA had one in stock). And my ring and pinion sets should hopefully be off backorder the first of the month as well.

Now I have to go back to working on other peoples stuff so I can afford mine againhttp://www.dieseltowingresource.com/...milies/sad.gif. Hopefully the end of MAY and the drivetrain will be done.

Things unfortunately have had to slow down as my finances ran out, but I have that back in order now and am getting back on to this project as much as I can. I'm getting married the end of this month, so progress will be sporadic. The engine is most of the way back together, and the PENSACOLA remans are in it. MOST of my parts are in or will be in this week. I still have to iron out my air intake set-up as a standard DMAX one will run the hood, and the fatermarkets sit even higher. And I will most likely be calling DIAMOND EYE for my exhaust as they are the only ones selling a true 4" exhaust for a SUBURBAN for a reasoneable price, and will probably go with a CORSA muffler as exhaust drone will be a concern. My front and rear gear sets are finally in after waiting 3 weeks for them to get off backorder from AAM, and PRECISION will be shipping my converter out tommorrow. DACCO in TAMPA got me all of the ALTO powerpacks, converter flow valve, TRANSGO shift kit, and an ATSG manual for $721 after taxes and freight. I also got in my KENNEDY wear plate for the T-case, and a KENNEDY lift pump as I liked his design better than the TTS.

Unfortunately though I have to get the engine, trans, and front diff done before I can get the engine bolted back in as the puzzle will be tight and dizzying to get them all in there. Still hoping that I can have it running by the first of next month though, wish me luck.

Well the engine is back together, and the transfer case has the wear plate installed in it. Unfortunately the input and rear output shaft seals that the aftermarket carries don't fit the XHD case, so I have to go to the dealer in the morning to get those(the front output fit perfect though). My PRECISION converter will be in tommorrow, and I have the rest of the trans parts already. My new radiator came in today as well from CARQUEST(my discount got it down to about $430 vs AZ's $500), but the UPS people looked like they played football with ithttp://www.dieseltowingresource.com/...milies/mad.gif. The box had several holes in it, and the fins on the engine side of it were almost all flattened out. Not to mention it had 2 BAD spots where it had stuff sat on it and flattened out the tubes(one spot had cracked the tubes). So I'm waiting on another radiator as I wouldn't take this onehttp://www.dieseltowingresource.com/...ilies/mad2.gif. I also got m yEFILIVE ordered today from FLEECE, and they are supposed to be flashing my TCM tommorrow so I can get it back next week.

If I had it to do over again though, I would just have bought an 01 2500HD pick-up and put a topper on it. MAN this is ALOT of work to work out the details.

Not many pics as I keep forgetting the camera in the house while I'm in the shop. I walked out and snapped a few though.
Heres the engine back together.
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t...n/HPIM0943.jpg

And the parts are beggining to take over my shop. This is about half of what I still have left for parts to go in it.
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t...n/HPIM0944.jpg
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t...n/HPIM0945.jpg

Transfer case is done now, and the front diff has 3.42's in it now as well. I decided to pull the front axle shafts out and do the CV boots while I was this far into it since they are 14 years old, and I also packed some grease into the front hub bearings while I was at it.

My other half is busting my balls over this though.
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t...n/HPIM0952.jpg
My new PI converter came in and she said my SUBURBAN is now gay since I am putting something in it that is yurple.

Problem #999 or 1000 on the list. I got my tranny all apart and cleaned up for the most part and began re-assembly. Ran into some problems with my ALTO powerpacks. The C1 pack is roughly .041 thicker than my old pack, the C2 is .031 thicker, the C3 is only .005 thicker, and the C4 is .027 thicker. The problem is that C2-C4 aren't adjustable, they just have a range that they have to fall into. The C3 and C4 shouldn't be a major issue I don't think, but C2 is. The clearance range on the C2 is .070-.085 according to ALTO, and I have .023 now. I can get a new plate for the C1 to correct it, and I still need to try the C3's and C4's to see how they fit in yet. I'm going to re-use the C5's as all of the old clutches still looked brand new after 162K miles, but all of the sealings rings and apply pistons were hard as a rock. So it looks like my money saving build will actually cost in the endhttp://www.dieseltowingresource.com/...ilies/mad2.gif, so much for trying to save $300 by piecing it together myself.

Trans is done now. Got it all back together and everything measured out within speck except my C1's were a little tight(I have .082" and MIKE reccomended .090-.105, the next plate thinner would have given me .125 though). Still waiting on my connectors for the trans lines though, the GM parts book lists the wrong ones for an 01 so I hope he got me the right ones comin now. I'm hoping tommorrow I can get it close to going back in the BURB.

Got some more done today.

Here's the trans all finished up with my yurple converter in it.
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t...n/HPIM0958.jpg
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t...n/HPIM0959.jpg

And the two mated back together just about ready to go in the BURB.
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t...n/HPIM0962.jpg
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t...n/HPIM0963.jpg

I got the new firewall sound pad installed today and hopefully tommorrow I can get a little welding done and slide her in for the final time.

Well today was a productive day. Got the engine and tranny back in the BURB, installed the front diff, transfer case, and the front driveshaft. Got em all in and tightened down and most of the accesories on it as well and filled the front diff, engine, transfer case, and tranny up with fluids. My next BIG project will be wiring followed by installing my intercooler, then installing a 1/2" feed line from the tank up to where ever I mount the lift pump at, and then swapping out the rear gears to 3.42's. I also called up ALLIGATOR PERFORMANCE and ordered a CORSA muffler, DIAMOND EYE 4" SUBURBAN exhaust, and an AFE stage 1 intake. My EFILIVE came in last FRIDAY as well as a new 1410 series yoke for my 14 bolt. Hopefully my TCM gets back from Brayden here soon as I will need it once the wiring is finished up.

And now for some pictures.

The engine bay with the new sound pad installed.
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t...HPIM0964-1.jpg

And later on in the day it all came together.
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t...n/HPIM0965.jpg
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t...n/HPIM0966.jpg

It's a TIGHT fit, but you can just get to the fill plug to fill her up with fluid. I did have to grind alot of the ribs off of the extension housing though to get clearance on the torsion bar crossmember.
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t...n/HPIM0971.jpg

And the 01 front driveshaft dropped right in and fit perfectly. You can see in the pic though that the shift lever for the transfer case is just barely missing the tranny, so I will have to grind part of the transmission mounting boss off to clear it.
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t...n/HPIM0969.jpg

awesome job man.

Ferm
 

I promise I will NEVER referred to my outboard work as a "Project" again after reading this post.
You are doing one heck of a job here , not in my wildest dreams will ever manage a project like this.
Good Luck and keep us posted

There all projects, I sort of turned this one into an adventure though.

Today's update.

Well I started the day by removing the fuel lines from the donor and putting them in the shop to put on tommorrow. Then I decided to tackle the wiring and get started there. Managed to get most all of the old engine wiring out and most of it laid out as to how to put the new back in. I also pulled the cluster out and redid the glow plug circuit as my 95 powered it but the DMAX grounds it.

The cluster is out and wiring getting sorted out.
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t...n/HPIM0972.jpg

The cluster before.
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t...n/HPIM0973.jpg

And after. You can see the jumper I installed to the power that would have been for the DRL(my 95 doesn't have daytime running lights) to where it used to be grounded. Picking the copper off the plastic is alot more work than you would think to boot.
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t...n/HPIM0975.jpg

Midway through cutting out the engine and uneeded connectors.
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t...n/HPIM0976.jpg

End of the day. Got almost all of it out and can start taping it back up tommorrow after I fix some of GM's SH!TTY splices. No wonder these trucks have developed so many grounding issues, GM did some HORRIBLE splices inside of the wiring harness's.
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t...n/HPIM0978.jpg
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t...n/HPIM0977.jpg

I always end up with a few extra pieces after a project like thishttp://www.dieseltowingresource.com/...ilies/hihi.gif.
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t...n/HPIM0979.jpg

Ferm I think you have forgotten more than most of us will ever even know.
Hope it goes smooth from here for ya

I sort of got an early start on teething myself with wrenches.

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t...RMANATOR/1.jpg

Don't have any pics, but I have been busting my tail on this thing all week. My pins for the fuse block just came in today so I can get back to wiring again soon. While I was waiting on my terminals for the fuse panel, I decided to hook up the transfer case shift linkage and I also got a shift linkage mount bracket fabbed up. the DURAMAX shift cable will not hook up to the early cloumn, so I had to buy a new shift cable(mine wouldn't stay on the shift arm as the nylon in the end that locks it on was worn) and custom fab my bracket as the 95 cable is 2 inches longer than the DMAX cable from the mount point to the shift arm. It is pretty tight under there as the 2" setback put the cable mount RIGHT next to the U-joint for the front shaft. I was able to get a 1/4" of clearance on the crossmember and a 1/2" on the shaft(may ned up bringing it in closer to the shaft if it hits the crossmember). So I can now shift it through it's gears in the trans and transfer case.

I pulled the tank out and removed my 5/16" return line and opened it up and installed a 1/2" feed line and will use my old 3/8" feed for my return and I have the fuel cooler off and am about ready to mount it under the truck as well as my KENNEDY lift pump. I discovered that the DMAX metal lines will not clear the steering linkage on my SUB, so I hooked up my nylon covered diesel line right to the quick connects and was able to get them over the lock portion so I could double clamp em on there. And I will just use nylon covered diesel flexible line for the bulk of the fuel system. The tranny cooler metal lines didn't clear my front axle mount with enough room for mmy liking even after some tweaking, so I got some AN hose and AN fittings and will just plumb the cooler system that way. This really sucks as I had already had the original lines done up with hydraulic line in place of the old rubber line.

While the fuel tank was out I did the rear gears today since that BIG opening made getting to the diff EASY as piehttp://www.dieseltowingresource.com/...es/biggrin.gif. The GM 14 bolt 10.5" rear axle is actually pretty easy to build compared to the DANAS and CHRYSLER corporates I am used to building up. The tough part was torquing the pinion nut. This required a 4' 3/4" breaker bar and socket to match and locking the pinion yoke down in my vise. This allowed me to stand on the bar as my impact with 600 foot pounds could BARELY budge it(I had it in the press to install the front bearing and bring up the slack to the crush sleeve, even at 6 tons of pressure the crush sleeve didn't compress). It looks like I lucked out as my G80 looked BRAND NEW inside. I went ahead and pulled it apart and inspected the governor, and all the clutches were good and tight and all of the governor teeth were intact. I'm going to pull the rear hubs tommorrow and replace the axle seals since I'm this far into it. And hopefully get the fuel system plumbed as well.

I got my shipment from ALLIGATOR today, and will hopefully get my TCM tommorrow. That CORSA muffler is one BIG SOB now, espescially compared to the diamond eye that came in my exhaust kit. So I will have a 6.5 3" downpipe and a 4" straight through muffler for sale soon. Little by little I'm getting this thing tackled, but it's the little details that will KILL you in a project like this. I spent almost 2 hours trying to bend and fit the fuel lines in only to find they wouldn't clear the steering linkage after doing ALOT of bending and cutting on em. And you don't realize how much time you can spend bending and fitting a 1/2" feee tube and soldering and epoxying it in. The best way to describe it is an old saying we used in drag racing, "OEM = A complete list of all items that MUST be replaced or modified when building a performance vehicle."

Time for my next update, I'll try and get a few pics tommorrow for my my next update. The fuel tank is back in and my 1/2" feed and 3/8" return are plumbed and my fuel cooler is hung right behind the frame support crossmember. Got my KENNEDY pump in and wired and primed it to the CP3 and found no leaks in the system. The rear end is finished up and new wheel cylinders installed. My TCM is supposed to be in MONDAY according to UPS tracking(the TCM was overnighted on FRIDAY, but UPS decided mine was important enough I guess), and hopefully my driveshaft is done as well. The majority of the wiring is done except for hooking up my relays in the PDC and wiring in my toggles and cruise switch inside the truck. I'm running into TAMPA tommorrow and hopefully my driveshaft is ready and I'll pick up some more hose and cushion clamps to finish up my plumbing.

I took it easy today after putting in several 14 hour days and nights trying to start her up this weekend. Hopefully tommorrow I can fire it off so I can verify my wiring and new injectors, but I'm not going to rush it.

Good luck, don't rush it brother, now is when the mistakes can happen as I am sure you know

A small victory
 

I made a few tonight, but it didn't end that badly:party:.

Tonights update.

I don't have many pics tonight, but I did make some headway with it. I got impatient today so I got the harness mostly finished up and decided to do a test fire to make sure it was all working properly. Well the first 3 attempts it just wheeled over and wouldn't fire a lickhttp://www.dieseltowingresource.com/...ilies/mad2.gif. It was building rail pressure and such, and I had disabled the theft system with EFILIVE. So after about an hour of head scratching it dawned on mehttp://www.dieseltowingresource.com/...smilies/33.gif, I had disconnected the FICM because I was doing some welding on the downpipe hanger on the engine. Hooked up the FICM and after about 3 seconds of cranking she came to lifehttp://www.dieseltowingresource.com/...s/thumbsup.gifhttp://www.dieseltowingresource.com/...ies/banana.gif. After about 20 seconds of running it must have learned the new balance rates a bit and started smoothing out it's idle and sounded pretty good. SO hopefully this will give me a second wind and I can get this thing wrapped up soon and on the road.

Now for a few pics.
Heres the harness mostly together and ready for a test fire.
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t...n/HPIM0982.jpg
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t...n/HPIM0981.jpg

Heres the new location for the glow plug/intake heater fuse. It is right underneath and in front of the ABS pump and right behind where the drivers side battery will go. This also helped in the problem that the DMAX battery cables has too short of a lead to reach to my PDC for my 95, so I used the fuse block as a junction block and hooked on the 6 guage cable from the old harness on the battery side of the fuse block and this got me a good power cable to the PDC.
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t...n/HPIM0983.jpg

And heres the PDC almost finished up. I ran out of tape so I couldn't put the flex covering over it tonight. Didn't come out to bad for a spliced together mess.(And don't ask me how many solders and splices I had to make in that one little area, it's a good thing that I like electrical)
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t...n/HPIM0985.jpg

And a special treat, the audio sucks but you get the idea.
http://s162.photobucket.com/albums/t...t=HPIM0984.flv

Sounds like a road trip coming

I had a shorter day today as I have to go down tommorrow and get one of the new exhaust pipes expanded so it will fit onto my CORSA muffler. I got MOST all of the wiring in and done today as well as the driveshafts. Since I needed to have the pipe done I decided to take my time and make the wiring as neat as possible. After finishing up the wiring and putting the shafts in I started her up and put it in gear to see if it would go in and it dropped into forward and reverse right away. I also did 3 starts on it with no check engine light so I may be OK in the MIL department. The tachometer works fine since I am driving it off the alternator just like a 6.5 did. I still need to check my speed outputs as I decided to try and use the ECM's and bypas the VSSB(if they don't work I left the wires there so I can hook it back up).

Heres a shot of the engine with the harness's in place(ECM and TCM will be mounted last after everything is together).
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t...n/HPIM0986.jpg
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t...n/HPIM0987.jpg
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t...n/HPIM0998.jpg
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t...n/HPIM1000.jpg

Heres the PDC all finished up.
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t...n/HPIM0988.jpg

And I spent some time and made an updated insert to go in my PDC for correct fuses and relays.
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t...useblock-A.jpg

My toggle switches in and my QUDZILLA guage.
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t...n/HPIM0990.jpg

The fuel cooler and you can also see the driveshaft.
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t...n/HPIM0993.jpg

And a few underside shots to show how tight the fit is.
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t...n/HPIM0994.jpg
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t...n/HPIM0996.jpg
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t...n/HPIM0997.jpg

that sub is going to be a beast

You are an evil genius!!! :beer:


"Frankenburban"

I may have to steal this one STINK, it fit's.

Today's update.

Well I got the exhaust finished up yesterday, and I spent today cutting away at the radiator support to fit the DMAX intercooler and radiator in. It is a TIGHT fit between the radiator and fan clutch, but after about 4 hours of cutting and modifying I was able to get enough room to put the fan clutch on with the radiator in place which leaves me an inch of clearance between the clutch and core and 2 1/4" from the fan blade tips to the core. I decided to make it a close fit and severely modify the radiator support to accomadate a stock cooler and radiator rather than modifying the radiator, intercooler, and support. Once I get it boxed back together it will be plenty stout as I can sit on it now without it buckling and I am no where near done reinforcing it.

Here's a few shots of the exhaust. That 4" pipe looks HUGE compared to my old 3" pipe I had before.
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t...n/HPIM1002.jpg
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t...n/HPIM1001.jpg

And the CORSA muffler is a MONSTER compared to the 4" DIAMOND EYE that came in the kit. I ended up having to relocate the front hanger forward so I could move the muffler forward and I had to modify the middle hanger some to allow this as well.
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t...n/HPIM1003.jpg

Not a job for the timid.
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t...n/HPIM1007.jpg
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t...n/HPIM1009.jpg

Removed just a little bit bit of metal from it so far.
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t...n/HPIM1008.jpg

I guess I've been slacking on updating this one. I got to driver today and feel her out a bit and the power of the DMAX is SWEET in this SUB. It has more power with 3.42's in it than my 6.5 EVER had with the 4.10's. I have run into a few bugs that have to be ironed out though. I'm leaving on my honeymoon on WEDNESDAY, so thankfully I have a back-up vehicle for my trip.

First off the heater return pipe from the heater cores to the lower radiator hose developed a leak in it right at the weld for the retaining arm.
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t...n/HPIM1014.jpg

So I'll have to get a new tube for when I get back. Also I have 2 codes that won't go away that I can find no reason for, P0748 and P0778. Also I have very little power in 1st gear and lots of blue smoke if I giver her more than about 20% throttle. This only seems to happen in 1st as 2nd and 3rd pulled VERY strongly. Also my tow/haul mode isn't functioning properly as it gives me VERY hard shifts when engaged and holds them out ridicuously long and provides NO grade braking what so ever. I wasn't able to get her up fast enough where I was driving to test out the OD/LO function.

The A/C doesn't engage for some reason so I'll have to do some digging tommorrow with EFILIVE and see if I can figure out why the ECM isn't commanding the A/C relay(A/C works when I jumpered it).

Heres a pic showing the TCM and you can see the ECM as well tucked in by the drivers side battery tray.
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t...n/HPIM1011.jpg

I haven't finished up the airbox yet, so for now the filter is just laying in there.
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t...n/HPIM1013.jpg

Another engine bay pic.
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t...n/HPIM1012.jpg

And a pic of the front end with my projector headlights. I did have the grill and such on it, but had to take it back off to get to the bolts that hold the drivers battery tray in place.
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t...n/HPIM1010.jpg

Hopefully I can get ahold of Brayden before I leave and get his opinion on what to check for the 2 codes and also about low power in 1st as I think it is a torque management issue.

Got one more bug figured out this morning. WONDERFUL ALLDATA got me again. I charged the A/C but the compressor wouldn't turn on. I dug up everything I could from ALLDATA about the A/C trigger and it clearly said that it looks for a ground from the A/C control head to trigger the compressor, THIS IS FALSE! It looks for a 12V+ signal to trigger the compressor to come on. So now I have to go back into my PDC and remove the A/C request relay and hook the A/C sense wire up to my A/C request wire from the 95 head since it powers the circuit on.

And I was asked on the other forum things I would have done differently, this is a short compilation.

First I would do a 2" body lift and raise the engine up 1". Second I would move the torsion bar crossmember back 1" like the guys who do CUMMINS swaps do and then slide the assembly back 1". After doing this swap I would do the dash swap with it if I ever did another. The custom TCM and other hassles isn't worth it. If somebody could make an interface box to allow tow/haul mode like the factory did with the BCM then I would go this route like I did. The DURAMAX intercooler does fit after MASSIVE amounts of radiator support work, but I think a modified CUMMINS IC would be a better option like BIGLEY did with his. Any way you slice it this is NOT an easy swap, and you WILL encounter MANY hurdles and challenges. And don't try to always take what seems like the easy way out as in the end it could bite you in the but. I encountered this with the power steering lines, fuel lines, and trans cooler lines. I ended up going with AN lines for the tranny, and the good hard nylon cored with cotton wrapped fuel lines, and mixing and matching the power steering lines.

And a donor vehicle is a MUST in my opinion. You will be pulling your hair out trying to piece evrything together from one of the EBAY deals. Also a newer SUBURBAN would be a MUCH better option to do this swap as the wiring is almost plug and play for most everything in it.

Well after fighting with PENSACOLA DIESEL remans for almost 2 months of the engine not running right, I went and bit the bullet and bought a set of GM remans. Now she RUN'S:happy:. So here's a copy of my latest post about it now that I'm almost finished up with it.

Since it's about 95% done now I took some pics for the insurance company today and figured I would put em here as well. I still have to finish up the air filter mount, put yet another shift shaft seal in the tranny(can't figure out why it is fine for a few eeks then starts leaking, this will be the 3rd seal) and get the windshield leak fixed. Most of the front end is back on and it's in mostly driveable condition as well though and waiting for insurance and a tag so I can go break her in a bithttp://www.dieseltowingresource.com/...es/biggrin.gif.
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Is that a K&N air filter? I just cleaned and re-oiled mine on my white '96 GMC 2-door Yukon. Looks A LOT like your burban! I'm hoping to see my gas mileage get better......seems to be working!

Nice job! And pics :pic: Even though I'm not mechanically inclined and could only understand about 1/4 of what you were talking about!

:train:

It's a AFE PRO DRY S filter that uses no oil and filters better than most oiled filters do. If theres any questions feel fee to ask, I can break it down for yeah quite a bit. I just got through playing with my EFILIVE and my 1st custom tune. I have a few issues in it to work out, but let's just say this thing wil flat out MOVE!

frem you have a gift.....:clap: