Thats surprising. We still need to meet sometime soon and go fishing or just have a beer.

Ferm - Skools,
Can someone give me a quick rundown on what the process is for doing a powerhead swap? I am no master mechanic but I think I could handle it on my own, I am just not sure what I should expect to be doing. I understand that I will be bolting on all the electronics for the ignition and carbs but what else am I required to do? Once she is all put back together am I good to go or is there timing adjustments, carb tweaking, etc? I am still looking for a total replacement but I have found a rebuilt powerhead for 1900, and he doesn't need my block so I could sell that to get some cash back. Seems like a good deal to me.

-Svence

At home I have this guys number who is moble and maybe you could contact him to see if he would be willing to help you with the job. He knows motors and is fair in his pricing. He worked on my motor for an hour plus and only charged me $75. Not sure if he is still doing moble work as I heard he got a job at some Marina but if you like I could get you his number.

Send it on over so I atleast have a stand by helper. Thanks.

-Svence

I'll get the number tonight and post it here this weekend.

Not sure i would got a 1900 motor?? I bet they were gas guzzlers!!

$1900 is the powerhead completely rebuilt with warranty. Not my favorite option but may be the cheapest at this point.

-Svence

LOL!!! I thought you were saying what year it was!! :hi:

There is the obvious swapping of all accesories and bolt ons that includes flywheel, stator, pick-up, ignition, coils, harness, starter, plugs, intake, carbs, possiblt reed replacement, thermostats, hoses, fuel pump and so on and so on. Then there is the mounting bolts that can sometimes be a real PITA!!! or just come right out. Then you get to replace the water pump as well, and then go through and do the link and sync on the carbs and ignition, find true top dead center on the new engine and mark the pointer. After you get her started up then you can live through the smoke from the assembly oil burning off as well as paying EXTRA attention to if it's pumping water as well as how hot it will run for the first 30 minutes. After you get some break-in time on it you can reset the total timing and do a quick water test and rough in the idle. Get you a few hours on her and do the final adjustments as well as possibly do some re-jetting of the carbs if the engine you put back on was bored or ported at all.

It is one of them jobs than can go easily or painfully. Also don't forget to figure in AT LEAST $500 for OH SH!TS when doing the job. I have spent more money on OH SH!TS than the actual rebuild on some engines.

Thanks for dropping a turd in my punchbowl... You make it sound like a real headache. I know your right though, it is one of those projects that if all goes as planned its an hour job, if not break out the check book!

Luckily its only January so I have some time/options. I am still looking.

Thanks for the run down Ferm.

-Svence

ferm is right i've had some go easy take 3 to 5 hours to swap and some go bad hard and b!tchy and take 3 days lol. plus the extra $ you always end up needed to fix the oops. if you haven't and are in any fear of something i'd say take it to someone to swap then you can fuss at them if it isn't right plus if you do something wrong i bet they will void the warranty.

This one doesn't appear to be too far from you. Brand new in the crate 150 JOHNSON like yours.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/new-2...QQcmdZViewItem

And this one may be worth the drive for you as well to pick up a freshwater motor.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1999-...QQcmdZViewItem

Seen both of those. The brand new leftover would be sweet but I am sure he wants way too much for it. I am after a 99 150 with boat and trailer listed for $3900 pretty close to home. Will know more this weekend, he is sending me some pics and additional info.

-Svence

The 99 looks good and if all ck's out and a little dealing you have a nice motor

I hate fools that don't give you a starting big to get going. That 05 is going to be a good amount, and to start at a $1 is a pain in the a$$

But at $1 I can feel like a winner!

-Svence

local and seems like a good deal.

http://norfolk.craigslist.org/boa/989771584.html

Just saw that. 850 hrs...seems like a lot???

And I have to add some cash on top for new controls/cables/gauges.

-Svence

850 hrs aren't much on that motor, i'd take that Yamaha over a Johnson Evinrude in the same yrs any day. good buy if i have my Sea Ox completed i'd buy it and be riding since i already have all the yamaha controls. a new set of 704 with digital gauges yeah i'm looking for a yamaha for it, i'd just rather have a HPDI 2 Stroke Yamaha 150 cause of the wonder fuel mileage they get.

He said he had issues with ethanol jamming up the carbs, got them cleaned out and added a 10 micron filter to solve the problem. Besides the carbs is there anything else I should worry about?

-Svence

just do a leak down test and you should be good as long as she runs good go take a test ride before it's removed and then report back how that Parker rides lol

Here is a new one on criags list but its a 250 Yam EFI with controls.
http://norfolk.craigslist.org/boa/990988312.html

to much for a V20 plus it's a 30" motor

Your know fun. He would need the additional 5 inches so he would have something in the water at WOT.

Well I am back online. Hung the Yamaha yesterday and spent today finishing up the install. All new steering, controls and tach/harness. Only issue was the oil tank hose was 18" short :( so I have the tank sitting on the deck for now, not under the passenger seat where it should be. Took her for a test drive and with 2 POB and full fuel trimmed down I was 5100 RPM's and trimmed out I maxed at 5600 RPM's so I think that the prop is just right. Thanks for all the help looking for motors and walking me through this.

-Svence

:thre:

so you are going to chance it again with the oil tank?

Yes I am going to chance it. Although the yamaha system is a hell of a lot more reliable and there are a couple of stages of alarms. The oil tank has an electric pump that only cycles on when the reserve on the engine asks it to and if it doesn't for some reason it alarms. When the remote tank gets low (say 1/4) the reserve won't refill automatically, it alarms and tells you to manually (hit a switch under the cowling) fill the reserve, showing you exactly how much oil you have left. It has enough oil in the remote tank at this time to do that twice. And finally when the remote tank runs dry and the reserve on the motor gets down to 1/3 it alarms and cuts the motor to 1500 RPM's. I am hoping that by the third alarm I know to put oil in!

-Svence

And pics are out for now, the boat is covered and put away as I am not going to be able to use it for a couple of weeks.

If your going to go with the oil injection on it, I would replace that float in the engine mounted tank. If it goes out NONE of your alarms will work. The YAMAHA system has no warning for no oil flow, just simply low oil level in that engine mounted tank. That float switch is the key to all of it. I will admit that the YAMAHA system is known to be a good one, but the float has also been known to be a problem.

Some people never learn!! :head:

Good Luck!!

Chris,

i'm glad to hear you got it on and everything is up and running again. thanks for the props again, i have been looking for a spare for a while. on a side note.. i got to look at my enclosure yesterday and the repair shop and start my engine, but the enclosure is coming together and i'm very pleased with it. should have the boat back in 2 weeks is what i was told.

anyway if you ever need any help or a fishing buddy give me a shout because i can be there in 15 minutes for anything. talk to you later, Paul

biggest thing you need to watch on the Yamaha oil system is teh hoses from the pump to the intake, make sure those hoses are in good condition and the connections are good. Clean the oil tank while you have it out, get all the old crud out of it. As far as the float switches go, I haven't seen to many problems with them other than crud sticking the float. The tank on the engine has a float switch also, good thing is if the switches go bad, they default to low oil condiditons, reducing rpm till its fixed. BTW, the oil level indicators on the digital guage is miss leading. When its in the green area, you are full of oil, when you hit the yellow or mid way indicator, you need to add oil, that indicator tells you when the resevoir in the boat is low(it also turns the transfer pump off till oil level is restored), not half out of oil. When the indicator gets to the low side(or red) the tank on the engine is too low(last chance) and the rpm limit should kick in. You can use the manual transfer switch to transfer oil from the boat resevoir to the engine resevoir to get you going again, but its not going to last long. If you run it low enough to kick in the rpm limit, you will have to cycle the key, and or manually transfer enough oil to the engine resevoir for the transfer pump to kick back in.

Hey Spares - Did Yamaha ever add oil injection on their commercial line of motors? I almost 100% sure they didn't at least up through 1998.

My friend has a commercial Yamaha and No, oil ijection, it is in ther 80's

to be honest with you, I don't think I have every run across a comercial rated Yamaha. ALl the law enforcement around here run Salt Water Series. There may have been some non oil injected ones that were continuations of the Yamaha/Mariner engines, but I haven't seen one. People around here believe no fault in yamaha engines, if you ask most of them, they will tell they never break and you don't have to work on them. They get a bit nervious when I get the rosebud out to change a water pump. The japanese engines have better paint, but they corrode inside worse than the american motors.

What's the "rosebud"? :) just kidding . . . I have had to use Acetylene to remove some stubborn nuts. I imagine it would scare the Be-jesus out of some folks. I looked a couple of boats with either 115c or 130c commercial motors . . . I'm pretty sure they were 1996 engines and I was surprised (well not really) to here from the original owner that they didn't come with oil injection. I'm pretty sure OMC's line of commercial line of outboards didn't have oil injection either.

I learned the hard way about Yamaha lower units, there is a reason they are so much cheaper than Mercs. Any time you take anything apart on them, break out the red wrench

That's the same i was thinking MJ some people never learn to remove oil injection. He might learn after this one MJ but who knows. :head::head::nut: