Nothing wrong with the 175, I've read alot of VERY impressive performance reports lately from repowers with them. As for the warranty, SUZUKI will ONLY give you a warranty if the engine is installed by a SUZUKI certified dealer. ED'S MARINE(not 100% certain, but pretty sure it was him) got into ALOT of trouble for selling new SUZUKIS and not installing them, but instead shipping them to the customers. ED's was sued and court ordered to pay for ALL warranty repairs on those engines and lost there SUZUKI franchise over it. All of the manufacturers have pretty well adopted this policy as so many engines were failing due to improper set-up. If your going to buy new, ONLY buy from a certified reputable dealer.

I firmly believe there is no such thing as "overkill".

One of our members here would disagree with you. Somebody here tryed a 225 HONDA on a V-20 CC and it was FAR too much weight on the transom. The boat had a surprisingly slow top speed, and poor handling characteristics.

The 225 weighed 610 lbs. Can you say, "thru hulls underwater"?

Well then...can we amend it to say over kill done properly?...

the 175 zuki wheighs close to the 150, so no or only a small weight penalty over the 150. BTW, I thinks Ed's got in trouble over the Yamaha's, he could have gotten in trouble over both, who knows. I heard Chat-Lee got in a stink a couple of years ago selling e-tecs without installing them

Thanks for the correction...When I bought my v20 in '89 I had a Yamaha 225hp put on it. The marina I bought it from said it was "overkill" and said the Yamaha was nicknamed "cheater motor" because it was actually putting out between 235-240hp. I never confirmed this. It was a match made in heaven.

When I changed power in '99 it killed me to drop down to the Yamaha 200hp but I did, because the 225 and up would have added all that extra weight.

I miss that extra horsepower.

Bet that was a blast w/a 225 (maybe >) pushin' yer V 20!!...I could stand it!!:sun:

Leaning towards that DF175 because I can get it for $8k and with a warranty. I have a couple of questions though:

1. How much does it usually cost to install an outboard?

2. What would be a good pitch/prop for this motor and a V20 Center Console?


Just got a quote for $975 for an install...too much?

THanks,

Rey

1. Don't know, I put mine on myself.

2. Thats gonna be a trial and error there.....the gear ratio on the 175 is 2.50:1 which is close to the 2.59:1 on my 140, but with the extra ponies, it will need a different prop.

Just as a starting place, I am running a 14" diameter x 21 pitch aluminum prop.

Hopefully your dealer will have some experience with similar rigs and can get close.....if not, just make sure they agree to swap props with you til you get it right.

Did you buy your motor new? If so, since you installed it yourself I assume the warranty was not valid?

Bought it brand new, installed myself, full warranty (which I never needed), but mine is a Johnson and it was in 2003.

I think things are different now.

Things are DEFINATELY different now. In 2003 from JOHNSON you could do just about anything as BRP had virtually no interest in JOHNSON, they were pushing the FICHT technology forward. Around here the average install runs from $2000-$2200 by the time it is all said and done. This cost will include the new cables, harnesses, binnacle, keyswitch, basic instrumentation, rigging the engine, and a test run for warranty purposes. The rigging supplies is what REALLY run's up the cost of an install.

Nice. I wish I had the same opportunity to install myself. $975 is a decent chunk of change for an install. I can't imagine it taking more than a few hours especially for someone who is experienced.

The major costs will be the cables, harnesses, binnacle, keyswitch, and the basic system check tach. There's probably a $1000 worth the parts right there. Then when you start to consider the fact that they may have to make changes and such to accomadate the new power, and there will ALWAYS be unexpected work along the way. That $975 isn't that bad after all. They could easily burn up a full day just installing new rigging, bolting the engine on, and verifying the install. Plus they got you by the cahones when it comes right down to it as they are not allowed to sell you a new engine without installing it if you want a warranty. There are a few online retailers who will sell you one, but they still require you to have it taken to a dealer and the install verified before the warranty will be activated. You could always go to the dealer and buy the rigging parts and put them in yourself so when you go to get your engine all they have to do is bolt it on and connect the cables and harnesses.

And I'm not sure with SUZUKI, but I know that the EVINRUDES will not run until they are factory programmed by the dealer after install.

if the hull is a selfbailer then it might be a problem. i have 750 off the back of mine and it really runs well, BUT, that is thanks to the trim tabs and IMO, if you take your boat into the ocean, gulf, large lakes, trim tabs are without a question a must have.

The center consoles don't handle all that weight off the transom anywhere near as well as the cuddy boats do. Trim tabs are a must though I feel on any boat used offshore.