Wellcraft V20 Community - 1987 18’ Wellcraft “restoration”

Wellcraft V20 Community (https://forums.wmpdevserver1.com/community/index.php)

- Repairs (https://forums.wmpdevserver1.com/community/forumdisplay.php?f=16)

- - 1987 18’ Wellcraft “restoration” (https://forums.wmpdevserver1.com/community/showthread.php?t=23306)

Here in Florida if you don't ice the resin you are in trouble.:clap:

Maybe they are there and I can t see them, did u leave anyway for water to migrate from bow to stern along the stringers?

Quote:

Originally Posted by cjohnson82 (Post 242721)

Thank you everyone for the warm welcome, I built my 63 gallon tank last week and finally got it back from the powdercoater recently. Deck supports on top of the tank aid as handles when fitting it in - trying to think ahead…

This weekend I started laying my 1.5oz mat on the stringers for the 1708 to tie into later on in the process. Speaking of warm, I had a batch gel up on me in 3-4 minutes so you can see the cooler filled with resin ready to mix (heat index is 112° today) the cooler trick adds another 10-12 minutes of working time which is perfect for the 16 ounce batches here.

I’ve read a bit on the “hard spot theory” but this is an 18’ hull that’s built like a tank with 13” centers on the stringers. The whole hull is a hard spot in my opinion. (Correct me if I’m wrong)

Also, I underestimated the material needed so back to USComposites.com I go!
I calculated roughly 42 CuFt of foam to be poured so we can get that on the way as well.

Lastly, I’ve read about the transom and rear scuppers taking on water with more that 2 people fishing on the back, so that leads me to fabricate an Armstrong bracket to allow me to close off the transom and add some much needed space to the rear.
Does anyone have any experience with brackets on these hulls? I know it’s an argues topic all over the forums on the pros and cons. But I feel the space gained outweighs most of the cons.

I'll say you have some serious talent on the fabrication side, I read this post a couple days ago and one thing sticks out that's been bothering me me.
Your "Deck supports on top of the tank" The tank should not be supporting the deck ! Thinking ahead this could be a problem. Decks should be supported by the stringers. The tank should be locked in place prior to foaming or the foam will move it. I used oak and the pieces going down on the sides are an inch above the hull. two rear blocks behind the tank are spanish cedar i had kicking around.

Attachment 8259

Attachment 8260

Dam,you guys have some serious talent

Quote:

Originally Posted by phatdaddy (Post 242729)

Maybe they are there and I can t see them, did u leave anyway for water to migrate from bow to stern along the stringers?

Only on the keel. Apart from condensation, the deck will be sealed to the hull so there shouldn't be any water entering apart from a tank access in the console. every other cavity will be foam filled and sealed besides the tank, bilge area, and possibly the center of the bow (haven't decided that far ahead yet)

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dana A (Post 242747)

The only thing the supports are underneath is the console. The console will rest on the stringers so no pressure will be above the tank. The supports are nothing more than handles honestly. Any walking pathway on the boat has a stringer centered along it, so for normal use and walking around your feet shouldn't be any more than 2-3 inches from support. But where would the stress occur, in the tank, the hull, or the deck?

Any updates on your project? I'm incredibly impressed by the work you've shown us. I wish I had even 1/2 your talent at fabrication and restoration!

Thank you! Both my day job and side job has picked up dramatically. Should finish the stringers and start on rigging tubes and deck in the next month or two.