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-   -   Rub rail repair ideas? (https://forums.wmpdevserver1.com/community/showthread.php?t=22780)

scook 03-30-2019 12:50 AM

That’s called plumber’s tape. If it was pulled tight and maybe with stainless washers added, it might do it. I’m with Skunk - finding something that will work is part of the fun of beating a problem into submission.

Destroyer 03-30-2019 11:23 PM

Personally, I'm tired of always trying to find something because it's no longer available or if it is available everyone wants 10x what is should cost because it's rated for marine use. I mean, come on, a brass valve is a brass valve, etc.

The cost for a new outboard has gone through the roof because they know that everyone wants a new 4 stroke, etc. In reality if a new outboard costs $20,000 I would bet money that it really on.y cost $5000 to make, transport, etc. It's disgusting.

That's my rant for the day.

steplift20 04-03-2019 04:36 PM

What about a roll of Velcro it has one side that's sticky you can use the one that has the soft piece on it

steplift20 04-03-2019 04:38 PM

Not everybody wants a 4 stroke, I don't

erikbythesea 05-21-2019 07:21 AM

So, it took a while to get to putting the rub rail back on after repairing some damage to the glass, but found a perfect working solution for the rub rail insert. We ended up ripping strips on 3/4 inch thick azek trim on a table saw to the 1/4 inch thickness needed. We tried it first with Starboard, but at the 1/4 inch thickness, once it had screw pressure on it, it had the tendency to shatter. The azek worked perfect with flathead screws. Didnt even need to countersink the material, it just moved out of the way. Thanks for all the suggestions. Getting the rope back in the rubrail was a pain, especially going around the corner at the transom. Heat gun helped it along, but took some time.

Destroyer 05-21-2019 08:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by erikbythesea (Post 238451)
So, it took a while to get to putting the rub rail back on after repairing some damage to the glass, but found a perfect working solution for the rub rail insert. We ended up ripping strips on 3/4 inch thick azek trim on a table saw to the 1/4 inch thickness needed. We tried it first with Starboard, but at the 1/4 inch thickness, once it had screw pressure on it, it had the tendency to shatter. The azek worked perfect with flathead screws. Didnt even need to countersink the material, it just moved out of the way. Thanks for all the suggestions. Getting the rope back in the rubrail was a pain, especially going around the corner at the transom. Heat gun helped it along, but took some time.

Happy you got the job done. Now, don't be a stranger. Keep coming to this site for help, friendship and ideas. :love:


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