west marine has a small kit for around $25. they also offer it it different thickness. i used it to stick a piece of starboard on my transom and then screw my t'ducer to the starboard.
it helps when u "flame " it first. the kit has good instructions

I have 6 gauge running to a fuse panel in my cabin, stereo, both fishfinders, vhf and cabin light(has its own switch) are directly wired there, are you saying these should be on switches as well?
then bilge pumps direct to battery, maybe I'll reconsider that, destroyer brought up a good point, thanks! Sure beats reaching in the bilge and tripping the switch if I ever needed to
Skunkboat, believe me I know the momentary fuel is a pain, I've dealt with it for a year so I figured ignition was the way to go, I should be able to just jump it from my tach so should be easy enough

I set my fwd and aft bilge pumps with a manual on/off each and float switched straight to the battery (thru fuses).

Here are pics of my latest dash setup
[IMG]http://i1081.photobucket.com/albums/...ps5ikglqta.jpg[/IMG]
I don't use the glass fuses in the large switch panel since 2 of the holders broke the first time I tried to look at them.


I like the auto style fuses so I have a fuse panel inside. Its fed by 8 gauge with fresh crimped connectors on both ends.
[IMG]http://i1081.photobucket.com/albums/...psxlnbraox.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i1081.photobucket.com/albums/...psaorfxids.jpg[/IMG]

At the battery I have a 30A main fuse terminal for the +feed to the dash. I put a ground bus there for organized connections.
These are grounds for lights and pumps at the stern where it doesnt make sense to run a ground all the way back to the panel.
There are Automobile style fuse holders for the float switch power to bilge pumps, up and out of the water and same type as in the panel.

[IMG]http://i1081.photobucket.com/albums/...psa9xpbpe3.jpg[/IMG]

someone has asked me about wiring so I'm adding this diagram to this thread to keep things in one place.


Again, always use marine grade tinned wire. Trailer wire is not marine grade wire.

I suggest a minimum of 8 gauge to make a home run from dash to battery(at the transom). This will feed all lights,horn,vhf,FF/gps, manual bilge and a wiper(i don't have one) and an accessory where you can plug in a spotlight.
You want these wires to be just the right length, not tight but not looped up either.

I strongly suggest a 30A main fuse on this feed using a battery terminal fuse block. it is dangerous not to...

[IMG]http://www.wellcraftv20.com/communit...pictureid=1195[/IMG]

your kid draw that? JK

I didnt see this before I posted my question about the orange wire? thanks

I'm saying that between the fuse panel and the electronics you should have a switch. Especially if you unplug the electronics and leave the plug exposed. If there is power to the plug, it will corrode the pin that has the 12v. I did this twice to FF plugs before learning my lesson.... and you have to get a whole new transducer/cable assembly once the plug is shot.

Fwiw, smoked plexi doesn't corrode and is easy to attach labels to.

Here's a pic of my dash. Black Starboard. The switch panel is between the helm and dash and uses circuit breakers.


http://i1087.photobucket.com/albums/...psffb29eda.jpg

I recently did a dash for a friend and we got a piece of plastic material from of all places ,Grainger. I was thumbing through the catalog looking for something else of course and noticed this material. This is about 3/16 thick,a beautifull black texture, durable as hell. It was 30.00 if memory serves . It was 36x24 I believe.

Black or white Lexan would be a good dash alternative. Unbreakable, gloss finish so no dirt issues. Available at most sign shops..