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Water optional... You WILL be replacing the impeller RIGHT.. Just go ahead and pull the LU off.
Compression test done at wot with ign disabled. |
I'd leave the lower unit on until you do the compression test.
No immediate need to get the lower unit off if it has bad compression. |
Yes I already have the water pump, thermostats, house barb nipples on order, today will determine if I'm getting head gasket as well.
Doing a compression test with the thermostat housing off the block should not effect anything correct? I know it's only 8 bolts but I don't feel the need to put them on to do the test. Correct me if I'm wrong? |
Nope won't matter at all
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Okay guys, compression numbers as follows 120, 118, 113, 118...So to say I'm amazed the numbers match my compression from last week is an understatement.
Now it brings me to a dilemma...do I pull the heads and try to get this gunk out? Unless I put the head gasket on wrong I assume I can't screw up the compression. Just seems like I should let it be, after all I'm not sure this gunk is there from my recent overheat or of it's been there since I've owned it. Dilemma two, of course I want to put in thermostats but since they weren't in there from the previous owner I'm not sure I should, for testing purposes right now...thoughts? Warning horn didn't work when the tan wire was grounded and I ran hot lead direct to the warning horn so I think it's the horn that's toast...guess I gotta source one of those. And I get to try my hand at replacing the water pump which I knew from the get go. Any tips disconnecting it from the linkage? |
Try another gauge as compression on that engine should be up around 140-145.
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did you test at wot? If not the numbers will be low
(wide open throttle) |
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Never knew you were supposed to test at WOT, interesting |
the throttle has to be wide open, otherwise it is like trying to take a breath through a coffee straw.
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