Ah! Now I get it. I wasn't considering the most important part, and that is the boat moving forward on plane... Thanks for clearing that up. Of course that makes it a little tougher to deterimine how high the motor needs to go.

Maybe its better to just buy an adjustable bracket for that reason alone? If i don't get it right the first time, I need two more SS angles.

http://i377.photobucket.com/albums/o...ps969d3412.jpg

this is a bracket i made for my whaler. it was built for a 15" motor and when i repowered, i wanted a 20" in case i put it on any other boat. granted this is a lot less weight & hp, but you get the idea. the original transom is about where the starboard stops.

no we're ALL confused.. lol..

YES the further back the engine gets the HIGHER it must be... not because of the angle of the transom (you are measuring height above the keel not angle) The reason the engine gets higher further back is because the boat displaces water even on plane... the water right at the transom is lower than the water in front of and behind the boat... as soon as the transom leaves a given point in the water it immediately starts to rise towards it's original level so behind the boat is uphill....

ALSO the keel will be pointing uphill toward the front so straight back (no matter the transom angle which you build around) is downhill....

sooo your engine moving downhill where the water is moving uphill requires more lift....


You do not need any huge washers or plates on the transom... the angle iron will already be spreading forces much better than the outboard brackets... you only need the same washers you would need to mount the engine directly to the transom..... under power the only forward force on the transom is at the very bottom end of the bracket or angle... the top is pulling away from the transom.....


ALSO nobody mentioned this but the bracket will not increase leverage on the transom... in fact it will lower it... the forces are at 3 points... prop shaft, bottom of bracket, and top bolts through transom..... a simple lever with the bottom of the bracket being the fulcrum

the prop is the fat kid on the teeter totter and the transom top is the skinny kid..... the bottom of the bracket is the hinge and the top bolt is you.... by moving the prop up you have moved the fat kid closer to the hinge and made it easier for the skinny kid to lift him



You don't HAVE to get it right the first time... your motor has the adjustability built in... just get your bracket close but not too high and adjust the engine up as needed for max performance

NOoooo If you use Stainless Steel for one side of the bracket and Aluminum for the other you'll have two dissimilar metals and that will result in galvanic corrosion. Whatever metal you make one side of the bracket from you must make the other side of the bracket from also. Personally I would recommend using 1/2" thick Anodized Aluminum for the bracket since your engine is made of Aluminum also, and you want to keep all metals as close to the same as possible.

Yes. The original holes will do just fine for the inside part of the bracket.

sorry, I did word that screwed up, Smoke explained it better than I did, you get the idea. The further you go back, the higher you can run the engine

What fasteners do you use to keep from having dissimilar metals?

Unfortunately, that's one of the conundrums of boat building. The bolts of choice are Stainless Steel because of their strength and corrosion resistance. But, they are dissimilar to the Aluminum that the outboard engine is made of. That's where the use of sacrificial zincs comes in. Just remember that the less dissimilar metal there is, the less potential there is for galvanic corrosion.

Thanks a bunch, you've given me enough to go on for now. I really appreciate it. I'll see what 1/2" angle costs locally, take some measurements of transom and motor, then sketch up some plans. I will post the sketch for final input and recommendations for the proper height. Will need until next week.

Last question before I hide in the mad scientist cave to sketch up my plans: if i use 3" x 3" angle 1/2" thick, setback will be around 4". Using the 2" setback = 1" of lift rule, that equals 2". So I should plan to raise the motor 3" (recall it is a 20" transom and a 25" motor) in relation to my old one?

the math here would net you 7" BUT instead of just assuming you need to measure from the keel to the top of the transom and from the anti vent plate on the motor to the bottom of the transom hooks.......
Understand that you will set only your lowest possible height here so build to put the anti vent plate 1" below the expected desired height... in this case since you expect to need it 2" above the keel you would aim for a minimum of 1" above the keel.... Then you can raise the motor one hole at a time till you get the best performance.


example: if your motor shaft is actually 26" and your transom is actually 19 then you would need 9" -1" for a total of 8"

Honestly I have to admit..... while I can't suggest it to anyone else as it is officially a BAD idea I would probably just run the 150 hp pre made plate.... Jus sayin