I got my grind on today. I caught a break in the rain after supper and I was able to grind away the fiberglass holding the back of the cap onto the hull. I forgot how good a grinding disc works on fiberglass. I say probably 2 hrs of work.

http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/m...e/IMAG0183.jpg

http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/m...e/IMAG0182.jpg

http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/m...e/IMAG0181.jpg

http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/m...e/IMAG0180.jpg

The tyveck suit and gloves and respirator made the job bearable.

Hey guys, I didn't get any work done today but I was trying to figure out how I was going to make a structure to be able to life the top cap out of the bottom hull. I was thinking about taking 2x6x10's and making, basically, swing set with out the swings.

Something like this:

http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/m...t_After_lg.jpg

except using 2x6's

I figured I would give an update and apologize for the previous halt. My business has been extremely busy leaving me with little time to do work on the boat. So, I am going to be outsourcing my transom and stringer job to a local glass guy. Now I just need to decide between a 150 or a big block 200. Any of you guys run a 500 plus pound motor on a bracket on your V?

Also, I am doing some TLC on my trailer a few U-bolts and some leaf spring bolts.

I love my 150, but I run light and don't really need the extra HP.

I remember seeing some CCs w/brackets lookin a little squatty at the stern...Vic managed to get around it some way, though I ain't sure how...I would think a 150 on a CC would go pretty good...a 175 would be a good choice...I'd watch the weight...are you hangin a new one or lookin' for a good used motor?

I am the same boat, I don;t run heavy or fast. I was planning on getting a new E-tec after my boat is done, but I might have to wait until their next free 6 yr extended warranty and riggin promo because I doubt my boat will be ready before this current promotion is over. I was going to go used but I am done with having to make repairs on old engines.

I am still second guessing myself if I should go with a full transom and bracket or just to go with a jackplate on the original transom.

Close the transom and go with the bracket. I'm so happy with my current boat as a result. Besides, I'd really like to see this rig get the right treatment. Glad to hear you're busy, Case. Let me know how you like your glass guy; gonna have a major project of my own next winter.

Sorry I just noticed your post after all these months, my glass guy turned down the job because it was too big for him, but he does do really good work. He is very slow. I have a guy out of chauvin who is just as good and has done some work for me in the past. Let me know if you need his number.

Well, I was able to get the cap off my boat today. Was not as bad as I thought it would be. A forklift sure is one of the handiest piece of equipment for the marine industry. I am glad my grand pa picked up a new one last week.

After removing the cap, I am pretty sure I found why the transom was flexing so much. In the pictures below you can see that the rear of the stringers are pretty much gone. Cracked in two places on each side. In addition to that, where they had knees installed, the part that the knees connected to were soft and were cracked also.

http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/m...ps94f51680.jpg

http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/m...ps47c75b9f.jpg

http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/m...psf0907192.jpg

http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/m...psaa28d7bf.jpg

http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/m...ps9ed04edb.jpg

http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/m...psd1e4c8fc.jpg

I'm going to try and pour arjay every where I can instead of cutting out and putting ply back in. I can't believe the structure lasted this long with all that exposed wood.