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Here's what they look like after pressing against wet foam for 30 yrs.
Coating it is a good idea. Then some maybe glassed wood "feet" to hold it off the bottom, and minimal foam around the sides/over the top edge, to hold it firmly in place is what I'm thinking. I'm debating two options for drainage. Either nix the pvc and allow a gap under the bulkheads for water to flow to the back. Or glass one or two PVC pipes in and seal the fuel compartment completely. |
I didn't foam on mine. I set the tank on pressure treated 2 by 4's which I 5200ed to the bilge and then covered with thick beads of 5200 before setting the tank on top. Be sure to let the 5200 cure before adding fuel to the new tank. This lets any water easily drain away from the tank and let the compartment dry out.
And Reel, something about the fuel sender always scared me so its disconnected. LOL. |
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Might want to check with GarageNC but Coal Tar Epoxy works wonders on the fuel tank. It is made for submersion in salt water (ie. metal work boats, pipelines, etc.). I spent a few hours and dollars painting my new aluminum tank with zinc chromate and then overcoated with satin black rattle cans. My boat guru buddy showed me how a little acetone on a rag would easily remove the paint and we went with the Coal Tar instead. I have never seen anything tougher in a two part paint.
My 1983 center console did not have the fuel tank compartment sealed. In fact it looked as if they had cut the rear bulkhead down to nearly even with the top of the tank. There were four plywood wedges under the tank for support, two scrap pieces of wood screwed to the top of the stringers perpendicular to the keel to help hold the tank in place and then foamed. My original tank was beige in color. |
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