Wellcraft V20 Community - Almost 2000 posts

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Quote:

Originally Posted by bradford (Post 178635)

Well it's been a week and a half or so And I can't just not post till she's done So I guess this makes number 2000.

Made a few changes since the last post.

Decided to remove all the non-skid on the front deck over the cuddy and the tops of the gunnels. Gonna go with a smooth finish. This should cut down significantly with the scrubbing and cleaning, as well as give her a more clean and somewhat custom look.

I also decided to install a Blue Seas Systems automatic charging relay and dual circuit battery combiner in place of the 1 both 2 off switch that I have now. I installed a Blue Seas switch panel when I redid my dash a couple years ago and am impressed with the quality and functionality of their products.

I decided to change out both bilge pumps with everybody posting stories of 20 footers sinking and am thinking about adding a third just for overkill. The ones I'm installing are Rule 1500 fully automated pumps with the built in float switch. These cost a little more than installing ones with separate float switches, but I figure it's a cleaner install with fewer wires to become accidently disconnected.

I purchased two new Interstate batteries from River Supply in Thunderbolt. They were even cheaper than the Interstate distributor in Rincon. One battery is a deep cyle for all the house loads and the other is their extra heavy duty cranking battery which will be dedicated for starting.

I'm wondering what size wire to run from the new forward battery compartment just aft of the cuddy door to the engine. I'll be routing the wires up behind the helm and down the inside of the gunnel to the transom.. I'm thinking either 2 or 4 gauge? Tell me what ya'll think.

That's all for now.

Congrats on the 2 grander...:clap:...excellent one to do it on...I'm gonna be puttin' new pump or pumps in the '84 and have been considering the built-in float switch model...you refer to them in the plural, so sounds like yer doin' 2...or more?...

Quote:

Originally Posted by reelapeelin (Post 178641)

Thanks Reel, I currently have one Rule 1500 pump with a separate float switch in my aft bilge. I was gonna just add one additional pump forward in my new battery compartment. Now I'm adding a new one and replacing my old one and considering adding one more in the aft bilge. I read that Spareparts runs three 2000gph pumps. If she was ever taking on water I'd wish I spent the money.

I run a Rule 2000 in the stern and a Rule 1500 in the bow... Both are wired for Manual/Automatic, I've never had to turn the 1500 on, but she's wired for automatic just in case.

As to your wire question, both 4 and 2 are overkill, but if you're fixed on using those sizes then my gut would say go with the 4 over the 2 simply for it's flexibility. Max amp capacity in normal 115v conditions is 135 amps for the 4 gage, and 181 amps for the 2 gage. But amperage ratings are very different for common/typical 12V DC automotive usage. For example, a 12 gauge wire is commonly rated at 20A for 110V AC home usage, but in automotive 12V DC usage 12 gauge wire is commonly used for circuits carrying 60A. It would really surprise me if you reached anywhere's near 100 amps total in your boat with everything running full bore.

But if you want to be 100% certain, look up the specs on everything you are running, find out what each one's amp draw is, total them up, and you will then know what wire size you actually need.... I'd be willing to bet that 8 to 10 will work fine. (and fyi, I ran 8 in my boat from the battery to my fuse panel, then 16 [20A] gage from there out to all my do-dads.. lights, horn, instruments, etc.) Hope this helps. :head:

DC power is much different then AC and that's why you need a larger wire.
I have used 4 gauge in my boat from motor to battery's and then also to the cabin. I have has 0 issues and all works well!!

Look into it you will see I am right. Good Luck!!

Thanks for the replies ya'll. I'm thinking at least 2 gauge from the cranking battery to the engine and 4 gauge for the house to the switch panels. Still a little ways off though.

I went and visited her today, she's coming along, most of the holes to be filled are filled and sanded, and the new hatches are done as well as the transom except for a little more sanding. Front deck over the cuddy is convex again and should shed water instead of sagging inward.

Tell me ya'lls opinion on this wild idea I had.
I'm thinking about leaving the windsheild off and going for an express hardtop look. A coaming would be built up in front of the helm and port side dash area and follow the gunnels aft to taper off where the side windsheilds currently stop. A small section would connect the two in the middle across the top of the sliding hatch and would flip down into a recess in the top of the hatch when it was slid forward.

Like this one, only no second station.
35' Predator Express

http://www.yachtworld.com/lakeandbay/images/e249565.jpg
http://images03.olx-st.com/ui/12/08/...-1f00ea88.jpeg

Would ya'll do it? Opinions?

http://images01.olx-st.com/ui/12/08/...-e4fa63e1.jpeg http://images01.olx-st.com/ui/12/08/...-9bd319df.jpeg

i think it would look good ,but be wetter than i would want to cruise around in.

go for it though, we love projects & pictures

I like the idea. The windshields on the V-20's break up the great lines of the boats. Something a bit shorter with some curves would look better. Take it for what it's worth from a center console guy though.

Bradford one of the main issues that lead me to V-20s in the 1st place is the full windshield cuz I fish thru the winter and it's great cover when running across the water in F-F-February...plus a windshield makes a great family boat IMHO...

But all of us have different needs from out boats...if that works for you, GO FOR IT!!....and keep us in the loop as ya go...:pic:

How bout a vinyl winshield from the bimini that snaps to the new coaming. Then it's the best of both worlds. Call Kerry Conway 272-6449 "Causa Cushions".

vinyl windshields problem is it is hard to see if it catches spray and no windshield wipers, plus your not able to stick your head above it to have a better look like you can with the windshield. not putting them down but if there is no glass windshield, make sure you get one with the U-zipper in the vinyl so you can open it up easily for when you need better visibility