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NJ was originally made for the US Navy, and was made to remove rust from steel. Then several years after the original they came out with NJ for aluminum. One bottle is a pink label, the other is a blue label. I forget which is which. |
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Good to know...I'm pretty sure the steel version is pink... |
I just pick the lint out of mine with my fingers but I can understand you old guys needing the jelly to make sure you get it all out. :booty::clap::sun::beer:
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Try it...it's the thrill of rubbin pink sh!t in your navel that's the real fun!!:sun: |
As a follow up to my original post:
Duro Navel Jelly is in a Pink Label plastic jar. 8 oz. Duro Navel Jelly for Aluminum was in a blue label plastic jar, but it seems it is no longer made...(At least I could not find it online).. however, Loctite makes a similar product called: Loctite Navel Jelly for Aluminum Price varies from $2.85 to $4.95 for an 8 oz bottle, depending on the store. Additionally, after doing some research, I find that many people have had very good results using Simple Green to clean aluminum. Stuff seems to work really well... WARNING!!! The US Air Force has banned the use of Simple Green for cleaning airplanes. Seems that if it's not removed completely (under rivet heads, screws, etc) it will cause excessive corrosion and is believed to have caused a Chinook Helicopter crash. Oven cleaner works really well also. Do not use oven cleaner on aluminum that gets hot however (like an engine manifold), since the lye residue in the pores will cause the aluminum to turn dark grey. |
Aluma- Brite that I use is an acid, it foams on bare aluminum. Same stuff removes the rusty looking hull stains but I imagine it is tough on gelcoat.
Two years ago I got tired of looking at corrosion on my trailer. Used 3M Heavy Duty Rubbing Compound and then gave it a coat of wax. Got darn tired after the first couple hours. Turned into a two week project. Never did get to those pesky cross members but the outside and fenders look 100% better. |
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