looks good, inaforty, i had to do pretty much the same thing, i also moved the fuse blocks and ground block outside the dash cavity. i relpaced the orignal canvas cover with one that was large enough tocover the new blocks outside on the cabin roof. it dosen't really do anything, justlooks neater.

Phat,
I like the idea of making a larger canvas to cover the fuse block/ bus bar mounted outside the dash cavity. I would like to do something like that.
I was thinking of making some sort of cabinet but that would probably take up to much space. Like the idea of just a larger canvas. Did you move the snaps mounted to the V berth ceiling.
I think I still have my Dad's snap installer that mount on the jaws of vise grips. Now I just need to clean the mold out of the monkey fur. Anyone have any tips on cleaning the monkey fur?

My old 1975 did not have the fur thank god!!:laugh:

i just installed new snaps, the old ones were rusted. i'll try to get a few pics later,
i used to tell my kids the cabin was lined with llama skin (there favorite book was "Is your mama a llama"..

Yeah, I'm with RidgeRunner on the wiring. Soldering and heat shrinking is the best longest lasting connection ever made. I know it takes a lot of time and patience but it is best.
I have also found that doing what you are doing is fine as long as you coat the crimp-ons with Liquid Electrical Tape. I like to open a new bottle for a few minutes before using it so it gets a little thicker to work with. Makes a darn good seal and looks pretty good. Have real good luck using it in the bilge area. I have seen many times the wiring in the bilge work, but not have any solid copper left inside of the insulation. It will be all soft a squishy and nothing but green goo left in it where copper used to be. It will also walk up the wire to the other end. Really nasty situation only remedied by pulling new wire.
Salt water is a real b$@#!

Hooker,
I use the method you described with regular crimp connections and liquid tape with great success. I have yet to have a connection fail on the Rosborough or Whaler (yet!). The soldered and shrink wrapped connections I'm sure are far superior. I haven't applied the liquid tape on the V 20 due to the winter temps here.

Does anyone know if the under dash wiring on a V 20 is tinned? When working on the wiring on our 87' V 20 I didn't find any of the factory wiring tinned. The after market wiring used to add electronics is tinned.

inaforty,here's the pics:

http://i377.photobucket.com/albums/o...6/DSCF0484.jpg
this is the oversized cover closed

http://i377.photobucket.com/albums/o...6/DSCF0485.jpg
opened and looking at wiring

http://i377.photobucket.com/albums/o...6/DSCF0486.jpg
laying on bunk & looking up at fuse blocks

hope this helps..

Hey Barry how do you like your Boston Whaler?
If you need any help with parts or drawing or what ever you might need let me know. I'm the Customer Relations Coordinator for Boston Whaler..
Doug

http://i377.photobucket.com/albums/o...6/DSCF0474.jpg

wolf, if i got you the hull #, could you tell me a little about this one?

Yes, I can tell exactly when and where it was built..