If you want to stick w/ a tower of power, just look for a mid 80's 115 and slap it on there.....they are the earlier 150 with 115 stickers, and can be had for 5 or 6 hundred bucks these days.

Thanks for all the input guys, I haven't decided what to do yet but one thing for sure, it looks like my summer on the water is over.

The carb swap I was thinking about was to put 115 carbs on my 90 if I get it running again. The block seem to be the same just smaller carbs on the 90.

I finaly got the power head off last night but ran out of time. Will start the tear down soon.

The spare motor I have does the same as mine. on mine it wont go past top dead center on # 6 cylinder and my spare wont go past top dead center on # 3 cylinder. What a kick in the NORTONS.

Am searching ebay for used motors but get scared with no warranty, they all say it runs good, well if I listed mine the day before if crapped out, I could have said it ran good also. Who knows when one will die.

Anybody got an extra 10 grand laying around they dont need, send it my way, daddy needs a new motor.

Turbo

If I stepped up from a 90 hp to a 115 hp how much difference do you think I would see and or notice. None, little or alot?

Turbo

25 more hp. But same displacement. You might need to reprop for a noticable difference. My guess 5mph and a better holeshot.

Well I must say I am disappointed, all this way and nobody asked for pictures yet, whats going on with you guys, getting slack in your old age?

Well I finaly got it torn down and found whats making all that racket, and I got pictures to boot. It appears that my lower bearing failed, came apart and some of the balls
from the bearing got into the # 6 cylinder.

Pictures are following but I must warn, these pictures are graphic and those with weak stomachs and little children should leave the room.

































This is what a good piston should look like.

http://www.wellcraftv20.com/gallery/...4634.sized.jpg

This is what a good piston should NOT look like.

http://www.wellcraftv20.com/gallery/...n/100_4626.jpg

That shiny piece in the middle lower half is a piece of the ball from the bearing.

Here is a shot of the cylinder head, not the best picture quality but none the less.

http://www.wellcraftv20.com/gallery/...4630.sized.jpg

The dark stuff in the spark plug hole is more ball pieces.

And this is what a good cylinder looks like.

http://www.wellcraftv20.com/gallery/...4631.sized.jpg


Other then a few light scratches on # 6 cylinders wall, which dont show in the pictures, I think it can be honed and reused.

Well I think I have talked myself into rebuilding the ol' gal myself. I priced all the parts I want to replace while I have it apart and for just under $2000 I can put it back together almost like new. Parts include crank bearings, rod bearings, wrist pin bearings, all new rings, complete set of gaskets and seals, new bolts to replace the old ones and the speciality tools to do the wrist pins and bearings.




Am I doing right or has insanity set in?

Have some pics of the tear down to post later. So far everything looks good.

Turbo

Anybody got an idea of what kind of break in proccedure I should use when the rebuild is done?

Turbo

Doc, Insanity is a condition of boat ownership. The fact that you can ask yourself "Am I Insane?" leads me to believe that your mind may still be sound.
Your ability to make a rational decision???:hide:

Break-in oil ratio -- Old School 25:1 (double oil)
I have heard of some going 30:1 on another thread. 25:1 was good enough for all major outboard manufacturers so 25:1 works for me.
No wide open romps for at least 10 hours and then only for a short time say 20 seconds. Do not let it stay at one RPM for long periods of time. The idea is to let the friction surfaces get accoustomed to one another without creating any super hot spots and possible sticking a piston. When you do get some hours on it that motor needs to spin free. Make sure your not lugging the inline 6 they like lots of RPM on the big end. Not positive but 6600 to 7000 is what I remember.

You must love that motor. How do you propose to clean up the damage to the block in the head area and around the spark plug? It would need to be smooth to prevent predetonation. Looks like some irregularities to the counterweights on the crank. Probably where the rod was shearing the bearing. If it were my money I would take the block and rotating assembly to a good machine shop. They can check the bore for roundness, magnaflux the rods and give suggestions on which way to proceed. They would be my "second opinion" and they typically do it for cheap $$$. I would consider it insurance for $2K you will spend on the rebuild kit. When my 90 Jrude broke a ring the damage was similar to yours but I replaced the head, you don't have that option. How do the reeds look? They get pricey for that motor. Pistons are not cheap.

If I ain't mistaken where the motor bolts to the boat is BIA standard, you may want to take a breather and spend some time looking for a newer powerplant. Or maybe a inline 6 for a powerhead swap as someone suggested earlier.
Been there with a 84 inline 90. That motor really screamed. Good or Bad depending on your perspective. My .02
Best of luck whatever you decide.

Thanks for the input Ridge, I was thinking along those same lines for break in. I did not how ever consider the roughness in the head as a starting point for predetonation. I was going to wire brush it clean and a little smoother, I may have to work a little harder in there now.

To late to consider a rebuilt power head since I just ordered $2122.00 worth of parts and tools. I do have a parts 90 inline I am going to get the replacement piston out of, I'll check the head on that one. It should be in better shape, if so I'll use that block.

Thanks, Turbo

Well I tore down the spare motor and the heads look much better then mine, so I will be using that block, crank and pistons. I am still waiting for the parts to arrive, checked with the supplier and they are waiting for the new wrist pin washers before they ship my order. I am still cleaning parts, so it's no big deal yet. I have to take one piston from my old motor and use with my spare due to damage on # 3 piston. While cleaning the one from my old motor I noticed that the pistons in the spare have a bevel on the intake side, where as my old one does not.

Question: will it hurt to use the piston that does not have the bevel along with the 5 that do?

Turbo