Overheating
 

Well, I can relate to this problem. Was having the same issue with mine, changed water pump, thermostats, still having overheating. Found out about the PRV valve. Took it out and cleaned it, replaced it. NO MORE PROBLEM!!! Worked like it originally did.. There was not much in the way of dirt, just a little sand, but enough to keep it from making the proper seal. Simple fix and made me more confidant in my motor..:clap: Let us know what does it for you!!!

PhatDaddy called it, thanks brother. Went down today, installed the new Tstats cause I already had the old ones out.
Put it in the water and idles it there for about fifteen minutes. NADA, running like a top, no alarms no nothing.
Took her out for a half hour spin, my word these are sweet boats, thank God mine is OK.
Thanks for all the input guys, my wife said "your buddies know their sh!t don't they"
WoooHoo

excellent young will. Just in time for Memorial weekend!

Still wouldn't hurt to check the poppet either. Early on they used steel springs and after about 8-10 years they rusted completely out and would not allow water pressure to build up.

What I will do Ferm is run the boat this summer, she is running well and I notice the pisser is much stronger when she is in the water. When I pull her this year I will pull the poppit valve, do the water pump and any other things that need attention on an older motor. She is a strong runner, cruises the boat at 28-32 at 3400 rpm depending on load. When I pull the plugs there is always a nice clean burn on all plugs. Can't ask for much more on an 17 year old motor thats all original.
The only thing that I find weird on this hull more than my previous V20 is that she is a counter rotation motor and that she lists to starboard pretty noticeably under power from torque of engine. Sits dead level at rest.
Is that common with all V's with torquey engine power?

Congrats on the easy fix!!

I wish all these guys were here when I had my Yamaha problems. I had one that kept heating up and was the death of the motor, I did not know anything about the PV.

If you have a lefty for an engine, then yes she will list pretty good the opposite way. Boats origanally put the driver on the starboard side to counteract the engines torque from the prop. By running a counter rotater the engines torque will actually push the heavier side down even more. Trim tabs would take care of it though, and are a good investment on most any planing hull.

Agreed MJ, actually though it was not that valve. It was what Phat said, running on the muffs alone for ten minutes or more as I had done to flush system and to check out fuel line work and in line filter work I had done it heated up. In the water though it runs fine no problem. Yammie idiosyncracy that I did not know about that could of cost me a lot of time or money.
Its good to have friends in low places.

Glad ya worked thru the problem w/no serious $$ outlay...it IS great to have all this collective knowledge to draw from...

The suggestion on the trim-tabs is a good one...it'll cure the list, that's for sure, but they'll also add so much more to to the performance of your hull you won't believe...

Here's an example; comin' down the Tugaloo River the other day, approaching a much larger cabin style boat and knowing the wake he would leave as we passed. Normally the V would rock and roll her way across, approaching those waves at such an angle...have done it a zillion times...w/only a little tab down, she walked her way across in a very stable fashion like never before...VERY pleased and finding new things about what tabs do on every trip...