Welcome to the site!!!

Definately get the NFB steering!

You will also want to check the steering tube the engine is mounted on. Remove the bolt that connects the steering cable to the engine tiller, you should be able very easily move the motor back and forth. If not, you'll have to start freeing up that pivot tube. A heat gun a grease goes a long, long way. The heat gun is a must!.

Pics
 

Okay, I went out and took some pics. Can't get the wheel off yet, waiting on a buddy to come over and help.
If anyone can identify the type of steering I have currently, I would greatly appreciate it.
Thanks
Ragan

looks like a Teleflex rotary, from what the cable looks like, I would definately replace both. Look on the cable near one end or the other for some white writing, it will have the cable part number and a lot of other stuff written on it, its usually within 2 ft of the end, normalyy on the back side of the cabel where you can't read it. All you are interested in is the length, usually given in inches, last number after the part number. If you can't find a good deal on a cable, let me know and I'll see if I can get you a price

Spare is right, juat get the number for the leanth, if you can't find it then when you get it off you will have to measure the old fashion way.
You should be replacing the whole thing looks pretty old.

Here is how to measure if you can't find the motor

http://www.downloadingfiles.co.uk/te...g%20Cables.pdf

Thanks for all of the help guys.
I didn't see any numbers or writing on either end, so I'll have to measure once I get it off.
From what I've read the motor has to be removed (or lifted) to get the new cable in. Is that correct? That's pretty much where I draw the line in DIY or having a professional do the job.

Well getting the motor to move is not a big deal, all you have to do is slide it over, get a strong friend you be ok.
The hard part is getting the old bolts out, some are pretty corroded in there! Just get a bigger hanmmer, and have some one trying to turn it at the same time.

No shop needed here just pure power!! I used a airhammer to bang mine out.

the trick in moving the motor around is raising or lowering the trailer to let the motor rest on the skeg, it will support the weight, just keep it straight up, don't let it go anywhere. I use a stand made from scrap 2X6's(use 2X8's on lower units with tall skegs) that I set lower units on when I'm working on them, that way teh weight is spread out over the bullet area of the lower unit.

Both of those suggestions sound like they would work pretty well for moving the motor. I guess I need to remove the helm first and go from there.

Does this system look like a comparable replacement to what I have:
http://www.boatstoreusa.com/productd...ProductID=1016
Like I said before, not looking to "upgrade", just want it back the way it was. I only have about $2000 in the whole BMT.
If either of you has another site w/ better prices or product, feel free to post some links, I'd appreciate it.

http://i377.photobucket.com/albums/o...rearhatch1.jpg

gofish, this is my set up, 84 cuddy, and i have replaced mine without moving the engine. i take out the rod box on the starboard side and pull the slack in the cable to the middle of the boat. then do the same for the helm area. i know its always mo money mo money witha boat, but if you can change both and go NFB. i think the cable length is 17.5 ft. just a guess but you can get some prices with that figure.

that other system looks like a replacement, but i'm pretty sure the system you have is a teleflex helm & cable. i have never used or seen the roflex utech system, but it looks like knock off of teleflex.