???? LOL!!! Whats HD mean?

REEL to be honest with you Im kinda taking this part one step at a time. Im gonna build the splash box. and then temperally mount the motor and tanks and mock up average weight then splash it to see waterline and then figure it from there. Im now running into issues to were I cant trim my motor up If I build the false angled floor in the splash box. This part of the build is really becomeing a pain in the a$$!!!!!! I will figure it out step by step. This is the part you dont want to screw up on!!!!

Why are you adding a splashwell at all?...w/the sump in place, all the water's gonna wind up there...I think yer gonna find after you mock-up the weight and splash, your floor deck will be below water-level, so scuppers won't work...I believe it's all gonna be the bilge...which all the pre-'78s are and there ain't nothin' wrong w/that...

Heavy Duty. 1 and 1/2" thick splashwell walls before glassing. It would make a heck of a sturdy seat base, or a launch pad. All positives.

Im trying to consolidate most of the transom wash with the splash box. Weight yes! The box I made is heavy as $hit! I was thinking about putting 2 brass tubes thru the transom and put a ball scupper on the outside, I can then plug the inside when fishing and under anchor,and when I'm running I can pull the plugs and drain water and I can also pull plugs when its on the trailer for rain water purposes.the 2 drains would be deck level on either side of the splash box.

Like you said...you'll have to determine w/a mock-weight/splash test...hope it works out for you..lotta nice work there...:beer:

Do I necessarly have to make it go in the bilge? I dont want my bilge open to any deck water at all I just dont feel comfortable doing that. why not just put the structual grate over the sump with a bilge pump in the sump with a float switch and let it just pump its self out as needed. I would love to keep the back wide open with no splash box to get in my "fishing zone"

Go way back in this thread...that's what I thought you were doing back then...LOL!!...that's EXACTLY what I was talkin' about...a grate over the sump w/a couple of SUBSTANTIAL bilge pumps to keep it all dry...no box (or the weight )

Im the happiest man in the world!!! the most expensive item for this boat and the item I dreaded buying the most has fallen into my hands at a unbelievible price!!!! The Guy just call me who im buying my t-top from and said $200.00 !!! I about jumped thru the roof!!! Im getting a all aluminum t-top that ironically was orginally custom made for a v20. The guy might be joining the forum he owns a v20 slapping. after purchasing this top I will be right at 700.00 dollars on this build. I have a budget of around 1500.00 dollars. The 1500.00 does not include outfitting with electronics( I already have a really nice lowrance bottom machine Thats brand new and still in the box).:hide:

Kracker, after dozens of opinions,, I would like yours, what did you end up using to glue your stringers in?

I was thinking of using a bunch of pl glue and fileting the edge with the excess, then coming back with 1708 oooorrr rubber 1/8" spacers and thickened resin to bed it and fillet.

It looked like you left the bottom 1" of your original stringers glass to hold the new in place, is that right? If so, did you leave the entire channel or just pieces to hold the stringer in place?