Love the low flat sheer line. I wouldn't put a top on her.

Thank you for the kind words. Hopefully yours doesnt take aslong as mine has! Hahaha!! Its been an awesome experience restoring this boat.

Bradford im tossed up about putting a top on it. My ultimate goal is to have a narrow t-top with a cobia tower. But for now i have to put a bimini top on it because my 8 year old daughter lives on the water with me in the summer time.

http://i293.photobucket.com/albums/m...psuaqilean.jpg

Did my switch panel out starboard lastnight. Gonna be doing the electrical this weekend and next weekend.

bedding hardware
 

So as all of you have basiclly watched me learn the art of glassing i have been able along the way share tid bits of things i have learned from others and on my own. With all the work i have put into this boat its wise to protect your investment by not cutting corners in the end. When cut penatrations in your core material you leave it vunerable to water unless you protect it properly. Hot coating raw core edges when you drill holes is very important to keep your boat from rotting. Heres somethings i have done to every hole i drilled on my boat
http://i293.photobucket.com/albums/m...psz5k93xe4.jpg
This hole for the rod holder was treated with 2 hot coats of resin that was reduced 10% with acetone to allow the resin to penetrate the core wood easily.
http://i293.photobucket.com/albums/m...psuoqt3nnq.jpg

Here is another pic that show a counter sink bit i purchased. I use this bit to to keep the screw threads from pulling the fiberglass up and it also allows the sealant to have room in the counter sink void and not squeeze it all out when screw your hardware down. Also you will notice the white coating, thats a polyurethane based aliphatic roof coaitng by SRC. Its basiclly liquid rollable 3m 5200.

http://i293.photobucket.com/albums/m...psdziya7qc.jpg
So i got rid of the sump well that was at the stern i had so many different ideas and whats ifs at the the time i included it. For what reason im not sure i actually raised the floor up about a 1 1/2 when i redid the stringers plus im using selfbailing ball scuppers heres the well cut out. I left the lip so i can put starboard in its place.
http://i293.photobucket.com/albums/m...ps1mqh6ogt.jpg

Heres the starboard that will cover the hole. With a 8 inch deck plate.

The small details like that will make all the difference in the new life you gave your boat. One worthy of passing down to younger family members. Hard to believe it's been almost 4 years already since you started! I picked up an '83 center console last week that I'll probably just flip. If she had been an early 70's model I'd have to keep her.

Boat looks great Kracker.

While I have to admit I've missed about 984 of the posts on this one I DO keep checking in from time to time...

Real top notch work.... Maiden any day now!

4 years!! Holy cow! This build has been thru 2 relationships also. Its almost done now its time to fish.

Kracker I gotta hand it to ya...you've hung in there and come out w/a GREAT lookin and well thought out V20...good goin' Man!!...Like all the details and the finished over all look...sounds like you fishin' SOON!!...

Beautiful. Love the wide open stern & the wide gunnels. Has "fishing boat" written all over it.

Would be cool with twin 90HP four strokes ...:hide:

You're sealing that starboard down to keep wash out of the bilge?

http://i293.photobucket.com/albums/m...psasp7cwuj.jpgStarted wiring power trim pump today. Here im using connectors with the heat shrink/adhesive.
http://i293.photobucket.com/albums/m...psvlszxlfr.jpg

I then put liquid tape over the butt connector and slid another heat shrink tube over that creating a good water proof connection.
http://i293.photobucket.com/albums/m...psmtyivlja.jpg

Here is the finished product. Next will be the trim switch.

http://i293.photobucket.com/albums/m...pshwr8t0f9.jpg
The transom organized nicely. I like consolidated and clean. We will be spearfishing out of the back of this boat so keeping things tiddy is important.

Turned out very nice, great job!

Kracker, you are a smart man. Great work on the V. I see calm waters and lots of envious fisherman at the launch ramp in you future.:nice:

Kracker, you sure got the clean look you were going for...looks GREAT!!...I'm like the question above...are you going to seal and fasten that hatch lid down...Starboard floats ya know...I was on a flats boat recently when the worst case scenario happened...and the splashwell's hatch lid floated up after taking water over the transom...filled the arse end of the boat pretty quick...I can see it happening on yours w/out fasteners holdin' that puppy in place...

Great job on this V...:love:

http://i293.photobucket.com/albums/m...psjeqnhe9l.jpg
The transom got bumped up to 25 inches today. Its a good feeling . 7 overall layers of 1708 makes this repair solid as a rock.
http://i293.photobucket.com/albums/m...ps2rzhk7hj.jpg
Last and final layer of 1708 was a single piece that wrapped the whole transom.
http://i293.photobucket.com/albums/m...ps4ydv5nit.jpg

hmmm....I should get me some of that 1708 for the finish coat.

Looks like it wraps around corners nice & snug.

The stuff is amazing!!!! And super strong especially with multiple layup and you change the fiber direction. I built my entire boat with it it wrapped every curve on my boat.

do you use fairing compound over it before paint?

The trick to the clear bubble free 90 degree curves is to build up some thickened (fumed silica,cabosil) resin on the outside corners then lay your cloth down and wet it out like usual when you hit the corners with the bubble popper (roller) its like magic when spread the thickened resin under the cloth.

http://i293.photobucket.com/albums/m...psjxvwc1ds.jpg
Did a little wiring on sunday. Fuse block and switch panel all wired. Just need to install lights and wire them up.

Yes it will need to be faired before primer and paint. I just barely bump grind the cloth then apply fairing compound as needed. Dont grind out to much you will lose strength. On this repair i had some thickened resin left so i slicked the repair with what i had left just to use it up.

What I have done that works really well to not sand into the 1708 is to put some 1.5 CSM down as your last layer. Just so you have something that's easy to sand and you don't have to worry about cutting the fibers on the 1708.

Looking good and good advice all. You'll be happier with the transom at 25 inches.

How many layers of glass did you lay on the outside of the repair to bring it even? I'm going to be raising the transom on my Grady to 25" as well.

The last layer of 1708 is the only layer thats meets the edge were i stopped grinding. Every other layer is progressive. Meaning i have 4 layers that build up the ply veneer then 2 final layers......the first of the final outside layer falls short from the grinding by like 4 inches....the last and final layer is the only one that meets the grind edge. It lets you progressively build up your thickness with out having all the thickness at the imediate edge. Hopefully that makes sense.

I think I understand. You have 6 layers total to match the thickness of the original outer skin, including overlap.

3 total layers on the inside of the boat total about 3/16 +- thick on the inside. Only one layer wraps the outside of the transom (the seamless piece pictured)and it simply builds the thickness grinded off and completely wraps the entire repair. The other 3 layers are between the ply veneer as i build up the ply layers.

I'll be raising mine when I replace the transom so it'll be a little different. I also plan on glassing the seem between the cap and transom, getting rid of the aluminum transom cap.

Yea i never understood the aluminum cap to finish out transoms. A many rotted out due to not having proper sealant from factory. I glassed mine completely and add 7 or 8 layups of csm on top of that to build up thickness

.The only thing I figure is it was quick and easy when putting together a mass produced boat with the cap and splash well being separate from the hull.

http://i293.photobucket.com/albums/m...psfhoridaj.jpg

The ole girl fits nicely on her new trailer.

Yes she does... and she looks boss.

Can't wait to see her with the new engine.

That ole girl really is sweet Kracker. I love the simple no frills set up.

Probably one of my top 5 favorite V20s.

http://i293.photobucket.com/albums/m...ps8i3sbnqq.jpg
Heres a shot of the transom bumped up to 25" ready for fairing and paint. So ready for this motor!!!!!

I would caution you putting your filter/separator under the console. Hate to have it leak some fuel or fumes and get a spark. Might mount it on the inner transom between the engine bolts?

http://i293.photobucket.com/albums/m...pslpsbjimz.jpg
This boat is so ready for that new motor! 3 more days till i get it.

[URL=http://s293.photobucket.com/user/sandbridgeco/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20150628_140454_zps8r3qdvvt.jpg.html]http://i293.photobucket.com/albums/m...ps8r3qdvvt.jpg[/URL
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Put on the rub rail yesterday