Tilt tube

[BRIELLY]

Ive come to the conclusion that my frozen steering cable (in tilt tube) will not come out. Ive tried heat, pb blaster etc and beat the crap out of it but its not budging. I'm going to cut the cable on the port side shorter so I can can a better wack at it with a hammer and punch, but if this doesn't work I'm wondering if i can cut both sides of the cable and remove the tilt tube complete with whats left of the frozen cable. I'm wondering if its possible to slowly remove the old tilt tube while inserting the new one. Is this possible? How is the tilt tube installed? Is the whole thing threaded or just the ends. I'm guessing just the ends are threaded and its tapped into place? Will this method work or will I hve to remove the engine?
Thanks

[macojoe]

How long has the boat been sitting?? If it has been years then yes go for the whole new tube, but if its just been the winter then you might be able to save it.
Cut the end so there is nothing to hold it in. Then trying driving it back in and then back out to get it to free up, spraying after each attempt.
You can also drill a small hole in the tube in the middle and try spraying some PB Blaster or Kirol in there and let it sit for a bit.

If this doesn't work then you will have to replace the tube. The tube is not threaded all the way, just remove the nuts on each end and you can drive it out while pushing the new tube in with out removing the motor if you are lucky!

But if it is that bad you might be better removing the motor to get a good wack at it, and you will not be the first to have to cut it in a few pieces to get it out!

[BRIELLY]

Thanks. Looks like I'll be doing some cutting and hammering.

[bigshrimpin]

what motor?

[tsubaki]

Only had this problem with one motor a long time ago.
Seems like we did a combination of removing the grease fittings, drilling into the steering thru the tube, spraying to wash out what would come, reinstalling the grease fittings pumping a lot of grease in them then starting overwith the tapping, twisting, etc, etc.
Freeing the tube, I think we shimmed it with washers and tightened the nut to break it free.
Beating the crap out of it would probably create more problems.
Be on the lookout for the washers between the yoke when removing the tube.

[BRIELLY]

The motor is a merc 135 black max. The tilt tube moves pretty easily so I probably wont have a hard time removing it if necessary. I'm hoping it doesn't come to that.

[csvencer]

I had a 94 Force with a bad tilt tube, I thought I was going to have to slide out one tube and sneak the other one in, nope. The tilt tube wasn't what was holding the motor on, you might have the same setup. If so I highly recommend replacing the whole tube as this one is going to be scored, rusted, dirty, etc after all you have done to it.

-Svence

[spareparts]

trim the motor down, put a block of wood under the skeg to support the motor(a hoist is preferd, but if you don't have access to one, it can be done this way). When you slide the tilt tube out, have a piece of dowel(broom handle) ready to silde in if anything goes wrong, that way everything doesn't fall apart on you, if it goes good, use the new tilt tube instead of the broom handle, but keep it handy in case it goes haywire, if you have to buy a new tilt tube, go ahead and get a stainless one(aftermarket), they cost the same as a new regular mercury one. The only thing I don't like about the aftermarket one, is they nuts are not nylock, last one I did, after I had everything tight, I staked the threards on the port side just to double make sure it never backed off

[parishht]

Before you destroy the cable,
did you disconnect it from the steering wheel?

I had the same problem and I did everything until I disconnected from the steering wheel,
then it came out but I destroyed some socket extensions using them as punches.
I didn't use an actual punch because I wanted a large surface contact.

PB Blaster is your friend.

After you get it out, clean the tube with copper or stainless steel wool
and do yourself a favor and get a grease nut.

Check this thread,
I put links there for the Davis website where you can buy the grease nut.
http://wellcraftv20.com/community/showthread.php?t=7948&highlight=stuck+steering

[BRIELLY]

Well I got the cable out of the tube today by cutting both sides of the cable and wacking it with a hammer and punch. The inside of the tube doesn't look too bad so I'll clean it up and go from there. Thanks for the help.

[bigshrimpin]

Great time to find a used hydraulic setup. I love the K-6 cylinders b/c you never have to monkey with the inside of the tilt tube and the lines are stationary. You can find them on ebay for $100 - $150 . . . all you need is a helm and lines. Hynautic rams work great with seastar helms if you swap the fittings (ace hardware).

http://www.wellcraftv20.com/gallery/albums/album54/DSCN0210_Medium.jpg

[spareparts]

if you are looking for a cylinder like that, a feind of mine has one that he is going to sell

[steplift20]

i just had the same problem very very hard steering after years of pb blaster heat and grease i finally did it the right way bought a new cable[17 feet] took my boat to the marina and had them replace the tilt tube
after about5 hundred dollars later 100 for the cable 140 for the tube and the rest for labor the steering is great its actually fun the drive now but i still get resistance when turning it to port at cruising trottle because of the torgue buts thats to be expected
1n about 10 years when i will replace it again im going to go hydrolic steering for sure
CHANGE THE TUBE

[BRIELLY]

Hydraulic looks great but I have too many other things to spend the cash on getting this boat ready. I have to clean the tilt tube out today and find a replacement cable.

[steplift20]

try this web site,thats where i got mine fast too
www.boatfix.com

[bigshrimpin]

For $250 - $350 you could have a complete used hydraulic steering setup.
Mechanical steering is a PIA . . . Just save your pennies, watch ebay, and buy during the off season.