No power to anything

[golver1]

Ok, new problem. I just put in a new ignition. I verified several times that I matched the 3 posts (Battery, Ignition, and Solonoid) on the old ignition with the new one. I then moved the wires over one at a time, post by post. I had to switch because the key for the old ignition was lost.

Problem: Nothing works. I turn the key and nothing happens. No light, no gauges, no starter, no power tilt, nothing. I verified the battery has power. I was also able to verify the nav lights work by rigging a + and - to the battery directly.

The only wires I could find disconnected was a thick black one that that comes from behind the motor (similar, but slightly smaller then the ground cable off the battery) and a small purple wire on the side of the motor near a bunch of other wires. I connected the purple wire to a bolt sticking out that some other wire was on and a red light started buzzing loudly on the dash, so I removed it. I then connected the black wire to the ground of the battery, reconnected the purple wire to the same bolt, but this time no buzz. Still no power to anything.

Please help. Boot has not run since it was winterized.

Does anyone have the wiring schematics for a 81 V20?

[TOM_T]

I have a wiring diagram for a 84 V-20 I/O. Did you try running a wire from the sol term of the ignition switch directly to the starter, if the starter is connected to the battery you should be able to turn over the motor. :)

[TOM_T]

I think the large black wire in the back of the motor is the ground that is a part of the plug, it should also be connected to the motor block. The purple wire goes to the coil if it is on the coil side of the motor.

[golver1]

I am running power to some light off of the Battery post of the ignition and they work. They actually work regardless of whether or not the ignition is on or off, via a toggle switch.

I will try the wire from the Sol post to the starter, though that still leaves me the problem of the gauges, nav lights, and the power tilt not working (stern drive is currently up)

The black cable is part of what plug? What does a coil look like? should I connect it?

[macojoe]

If you don't no what a coil looks like you better get out of the engin compartment!!

I am not trying to be rude but you have no bissness in there with out a manual and some motor knowledge!!

All that stuff will come alive once you figure out which wires are messed up.

Lights are not hooked to the ignition switch, They should be hooked to a rocker on the dash some where.

Same goes for the trim and tilt

The big black wire, is this the wire to the battery?? If so it hooks to the motor as a ground. Nothing will hapen to the motor with out it being hooked up.

To see if the starter will even move the motor, hook the ground from the battery to the motor, and the power from the batery to the starter, thenn using a screw driver jump the starter by touching the two bolts on the starter toghter and it should turn??

Again do this only if you no what I am talking about!!!

You could take the starter out and bench test it by putting power to it and touching the ground to it. But clamp the thing down first!!!
Of coarse getting the starter out is a all day job!! The screws are under the motor on the left side and I used a mirror down in the bildge just so I could see them!!

I wish you lots of luck!! It seems like you have a big job ahead of you!!

I have been there Done that Serveal times!! and it is no fun!!

I said it before aand I will say it again!! Go BRACKET Young man and end all your troubles!!

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v131/macojoe/aer.jpg

[golver1]

Thanks for all the help so far. Progress has been made. I know what a coil is now. LMAO.

I replaced the battery, since it needed it anyways. Still nothing. Took a screw driver to the starter/solonoid and it turned over. When I turn the key in the ignition, I get one small low click. It is not the loud clicking noise you get when the starter is bad or the battery is weak, Besides we know that both the starter and the battery are good. It is 1 small click. You can't even hear it from the front of the boat, you have to be standing right near the solonoids and starter to hear it.

Double checked the ignition setup and it is correct. Possible bad ignition?

Also still no power to the tilt buttons. They do not run thru the ignition. Unable to raise or lower the stern drive since these are not working.

Any suggestions would be apprecaited. I will post pictures tonite in my gallery. If you could take a look, that would be apprecaited.

Thank you

[macojoe]

Selanoid, it looks like a black round box with 2 bolts sticking out of each side. and maybe two wires pluged on to the front.
Power will be going to one side and then a wire going to stuff on the other side.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v131/macojoe/c093a09f.jpg

[golver1]

Awesome, I thought that may be the case. I actually have two of them, but they were a little confusing.

The only power cable off the battery runs to a bolt on the starter. The starter has a part that looks like a starter but is smaller, piggy backed to it. Thats where all the wires for the starter run too. It is also where I used the screw driver to turn the motor over. From this peice comes a good sized wire that runs to this selonoid. This also appears to be where the outdrive power trim is getting its power. It would makes sense that this part is not working.

The part that is confusing is that there are 2 of them.
There is not much hooked up to the other, very old looking cables.

Do you know what each of the 4 post on the celonoid are for?

[golver1]

Also is it possible for the celonoid to be backwards. On ours, the power cable runs into the post on the opposite side of where you listed it.

[macojoe]

Yes there is two of them and one is for the trim.

I am not sure how they are wired??

Mine was right when I got it and one let go and made a clicking noise like yours and that was the problem. I just moved the wires over one at a time till they were done and bingo it worked.

I would guess that yours are wired right!! There is no reason for anyone to mess with them. So I would get someone to listen as you turn the key to see which one is shot and replace it. and go from there.

Good Luck!!

[golver1]

Ok, I posted some pictures I hope will help with this mystery. Look in my gallery for the Pics, golver's 81 V20.

Pic: Wire 1:
1) Hot wire - trim
2) Hot wire - starter
?) Mystery part - does not seem to be connected to anything

Wire2:
1) Mystery Purple wire
2) Hot wire - trim
3) Hot wire - starter
4) Starter post (will turn starter when given power to here)

Wire 3: (picture of starter)
1) Mystery Purple wire
2) Starter post (will turn starter when given power to here)

Wire 4: Under dash
1) Cut yellowish wire
2) Where the wire was cut from
3) When plug is seperated, yellow wire prong is missing. looks broken off.

I am thinking the issue is celinoids. The wires running to the celinoids in picture WIRE1 (line#1&2) are live, but nothing comes out the other side of the celinoid. Items hooked up to the celinoid do not work.

I beleive the celinoid on the left is for the trim and may be a Ford part, the other on the right runs to the starter and may be a GM/Chevy part.

I can not, for the life of me, figure out where the purple wire goes. It can be seen in pics Wire1, 2, & 3.

The starter switch is ok. I ran a wire from the bolt on the starter, pic: Wire 3 (line#2), to the Solonoid post on the starter switch. It turned the engine when I turned the key.

So what do you think, celinoids are the problem, no?

Pic: Wire 4 questions.
Do you think this is the yellow wire that runs to the starter celinoid? Does it have to run through the (Line#3)plug, since the plug has a broken prong where this wire runs in, or can I just splice it past the plug? Where can I get another plug for it?

[macojoe]

Have I suggested you go to a bracket & Outboard before??
If not I will say it now!! Go Outboard & Bracket young man!!

Wireing is not my best area!! I Hate it!! I can tell you that as long as it is right and I have to replace something then I am ok. But if I get a mess to start with then I am lost!

I wish I was more help!! But I pulled my I/O cause of many of the problems you are having now.

I will answer what I no after that I am of no help.

Try calling Wellcraft and asking if they have a wire digram for you? Hers there number 1-941-753-7811, Its worth a try. Or order a manual it might help?

Good Luck!

[golver1]

I contacted them already, they said that manual was out or print. They gave me a listing of generic used colors and guages for instruments.

I prefer the I/O's over the outboards. Every outboard I have ever heard of was never anything but broken. Plus with the I/O, it is basically a car motor. I can fix most of it.

Just this electrical wiring is confusing as anything.

[chumbucket]

One of the biggest problems that I see you're facing is that the wiring is so old and such a mess, it's going to be difficult for anyone, unless truly experienced in boat wiring, to help out. The pics are a bit fuzzy too. I honestly can't help you with the color codes. Boaters World and West Marine both sell an excellent book on 12 volt boat wiring that goes into detail about common color codes that were used in the marine industry. I'd pick up a copy of that if it were my problem. A couple of observations that I might be able to help with though;
The mystery part appears to be a hydraulic cylinder and the boat perhaps had hydraulic steering at one time. I wouldn't worry about that. It's not part of your current problems.
Those type of solenoids are pretty generic and can also be purchased at BW or West for relatively short $$. I do believe they are the source of your problems. A solenoid is nothing more than an electro-magnetic switch that when 12 volts DC is applied to the coil (the small wires), the electro-magnetic coil is energized and pulls up a post that completes the load circuit (large wires) supplying the juice to whatever is to be actuated. I would replace both solenoids.
And, I would try connecting the yellow wire, bypassing the plug after the new solenoids are replaced and see what happens.
I would also be sure your neutral safety switch is working correctly in the control box(just another thought of a possible problem).

[Crusher]

Golver 1 , pictures seem to show a lot of bad ground (corrosion) problems. Start with battery and clean all connections to ign switch. Where coils mount to block and solenoids mount must all have good grounds. wires connecters can be corrodided under heat shrink. Use only marine grade wire and connectors as they are tinned (all strands of wire are soldered and then coated) using automotive wire and connecters is a slow corrosive death in a marine environment. You can check starter neg. jumper battery cable to starter housing, pos. jumper battery cable to + stud on starter. your set up is like pre 73 ford trks that are mounted on fender. You can check grounds by hooking test light to positive post of battery and point (light) end to mounting brackets of of relays and coils. Crusher

[Brian_M]

Golver,

Let me know what year your engine is and HP, I have a Clymer manual with wiring diagrams...I'll copy the page and fax it to you if you'd like...my book covers 64-86 mercruisers.

The book worked wonders as I got my Ebay V20 ready

Brian

[macojoe]

Your mistery part is for the steering!! I had it in my boat also. I don't think it has anything to do with power stering? But then again I never new what it did!! :o

Good luck with the windsheild post also!! I have no idea were your going to get that??

[golver1]

I put in the new solenoid and now it looks like everything works nicely, except the trim.

[macojoe]

;)

Trace the wires. They go to a 2nd selonid and they have nothing to do with the key switch.

Your getting there!!

[golver1]

Yea, I have have 90% of the wiring schematic memorized now. The Trim is a completely seperate system. The only thing it shares with the engine is the battery.

Check my post on Trim power