Lucky Scupper Here

[msbhammer]

As most of you know, I posted some questions the other day about my scuppers on my 1986 V-20.
Well, I was checking the scuppers yesturday and seeing what was the best way to squeeze in and get to them, well I grab ahold of one of the drain lines that attached to one scupper drain and.......snap !!!!. I couldnt believe it...that damm through the hull scupper snapped in half on me. I only placed my hands on it, no pressure. Now if this would have happened out in the water !!. Hello...Tow-Boat U.S. are you there ??. I bought two new through the hull scuppers, a one inch hose and I also found what is called a tee valve, that lets deck water out, but no ocean water in. But to my surprise two boat stores that I went to dont have the drain for the deck ??, whats up with that. Has anybody had problems getting one inch deck drains. The deck drain and hose that broke off the boat lloked like they were a mix between an automotive hose and a above ground pool drain. Well to say the least, I'm happy that I decided to check the scuppers and know when its finished, it will be right. Remember, keep away from Jersey boat brokers. Hell, I'm still waiting for my trailer title. The smuck doesnt even return my calls, but that another story. : ) Pictures to follow once its all installed correctly. I also pulled the gas tank cover and reinforced it because it was flexing in the middle. Repainted it as well. Hopefully I wont be kicked off this list on the way I braced up the tank cover, but I put out just over a hundred bucks. Pictures to follow as well.
If anybody has any leads as far as where to get two
1-inch deck grains let me know.
Mike.

[msbhammer]

Deck Drains, not grains, I been up al night working the midnight shift then sanding and painting the fuel tank cover. Bed time now : )

[willy]

Was going to check mine this spring and make some changes myself, don't know where to get those floor drains but let me know if you find them might need them my self. Also tell me about the one way valve you are going to use, a pic would be great

[macojoe]

I hate plastic thur hulls!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Mine are all brass now! with brass ball vaules on them.

I would Never use plastic just because of what just happened to you!

I don't have the deck drains so I can't help you there.

[msbhammer]

Will send pictures of teh valves tonight. they are really nice and look well made. hell, they costed more then the new scuppers. I paind 25 bucks a piece for each valve.
MIke.

[msbhammer]

if I cant find a floor drain, i may be forsed to use a scupper as a deck drain. That was used on one. It works, but the scupper is mushroomed at the top, so water doesnt freely flow into the drain. I would go with steal through hull scuppers, but can only find them in
1 1/2 instead of i-inch. Hmm, let me check E-Bay again.
Mike.

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[msbhammer]

Any suggestions on what I should use to reseal the scuppers and deck hatch. I picked up some 5200 white caulk for the scuppers. Its suposed to be the strongest stuff to use, but installing the fuel deck hatch, should I just use a typical marine white caulk, since I wannna be able to put the hatch if I ever have to. At least that is what I was told, to shoot a bead of caulk around teh hatch cover to prevent water from getting. Correct ???
Mike.

[msbhammer]

Ok guys, lets turn off the football game and talk boat : )
Mike.

[rb437]

OK the games over so back to the boat. I repaired this same cover over my fuel tank a couple of years ago. I used a dremel with a cutting wheel to cut around the underside of the hatch. Then I removed what was left of the water soaked and rotten plywood. Then I epoxied a new piece of plywood in place and cut the holes for the inspection covers using the hatch itself as guide. Next I coated all the new wood with epoxy and re-installed the hatch and used a light gray coler caulk to match the deck color. It's been a couple of years and so far it's holding up real well

[willy]

MSB that first photo is the in line you are talking about, looks to me like one that is seperated and instaled as a thru hull or thru bulkhead, is that what is originally supposed to be used for?

I would use that boat seal or boat life seal? can't remember the correct name, seals well and stays flexible enough to flex with the floor and stay sealed and still allow you to get it off if you need to in the future

[msbhammer]

Rick,
Sounds like you did the job right. Whats yor address, I'll be shipping you my fuel hatch cover : ) 8) ;D
LOL,
Mike.

[msbhammer]

Willy,
They do have bigger one's for through the hull transoms from 1 1/2 to 2 1/2. The one pictured fits a one inch lime. My main concern was to find some sort of scupper with a flapper, but they dont make them in one inch. Having this installed makes me feel a bit easier on the water.
Mike.

[reelapeelin]

Hammer, some thoughts on your choice of reinforcing material...Oh $hit...Oh no...oye veh!!... ::)...the work you did on the top looks great, so don't blame you if you leave it as is, but those angles are gonna be a rust PROBLEM QUICK...and are the fasteners stainless??....and does all the new hardware clear the tank they lay over...need LOTTA room in there...you don't want those angles or bolts ANYWHERE NEAR the top of your GASOLINE TANK...now that those angles are closer to the tank, there is much LESS ROOM for flexing as guys like me and MJ lunge across the deck to grab a pole that's peelin' line...and truth be known...the way those bolt heads are pullin' the fiberglass in, it doesn't look like it's gonna be long B4 they break thru anyway...I know you spent a lotta time, the workmanship looks good, but I'm afraid your repair has some problems in the making...


Your new valves look great...glad your old ones broke when they did...Sea Tow would have to have a JET-BOAT on SLICK WATER to get to you fast enough!!!... ;)...

Where have you already looked for the floor drains??...

5200 is an ADHEASIVE SEALANT...best on the thru-hull fittings...

Franco posted a GREAT IDEA long ago....B4 laying-in the sealant around your floor-deck, run a length of heavy monofilament line around opening and leave a long enough tag on it to grab w/pliers...w/that in place, if the deck ever needs to come up, pull the mono straight up all the way around and it'll make the cut for you...use 4200 around floor-deck... ;)...

[msbhammer]

Still pondering over how I reinforced it, but to tear out the old wood and then get lost on what to do. It is a quick fix for sure. Clears the tank fuel line and wires.
I'm not impressed with the paint either. I managed to sand and paint it in a heated garage, but the marine paint seems like it will scrap off the firs time its walked on.
I checked to local marine stores and they dont carry any type of deck drain that surprised me. I also emailed Wellcraft and waiting for a reply. Wouldnt mind working on the scuppers now, but a bit worried about using the 5200 in cold weather.
If you know any leads or other Wellcraft dealers lets me know.
Thanks.
Mike.

[reelapeelin]

Hammer, hope I didn't sound too hard on ya above...I too am fiberglass CHALLENGED and look for alternate ways to repair...I'm just concerned that metal doesn't allow enough clearance between it and top of tank... ;)...

It'll tell ya on the tube min. temperature to use 5200...

[willy]

Gotcha MSB but where are you installing that valve, that is what I don't understand, will it be hanging loose mid hose where you cut and install it there or are you intending to mount that somewhere

[Franco]

take a grinder to the inside edge where the original plywood was bonded to the lid. cut a grove all around the lip - peel off the inside and discard - scrape and then grind the surface smooth. cut squares of plywood
( the squares allow the plywood to conform to the shape better) to fill that void. cut a piece of fiberglass cloth slight bibber than that surface, wet down the inside with fiberglass resin, lay on the cloth, roll it to get out the air bubbles, mix another batch of resin, and wet down both the inside and the pieces of plywood as you place them. the should be fairly snug, cut some more cloth and wet down the top of the plywood, add the cloth, add some more resin and roll out the bubbles. you can cust strips 8", 6" and 4" wide to layer the perimeter for extra strength. Then cut your holes for the deck plates. Seal the edges of the plywood with resin brushed on. use 5200 when installing deck plates TADA!!!

[msbhammer]

If I decide to tear it done and do it the correct way, what am I looking at in cost in materials ??
What about the type of plywood I should use ???.

So if I cut out the bottom, pull out all the old wood I now have a dry the underside.
2. wet the underside.
3. add in plywood.
4.wet that peice of plywood
5. add cloth and resin overtop
6. poof...done, right ?

Its not a thick cover, maybe 5/8 plywood, But I guess I can make it as thick as I want.
Mike.

[Franco]

is there a home depot near you. go check their off cut pile, you can usually buy pieces of good grade plywood at a really cheap price. whatever you buy ( I used cabinet grade ) make sure it has as many plys ( layers ) as possible. you can buy a gallon of inexpensive resin at boater world, along with the cloth. probably could do it for 75 bucks or less. When you secure the hatch down, tape a piece of 50 lb mono around the lip, so if you ever have to bust the 5200 seal, use the mono too cut it loose

[rb437]

My hatch was very soft before I made this repair. The wood was soaked. Water ran out when I cut the hatch open. Here's what I did.

I cut the glass off the underside of the hatch. Then I scraped off what was left of the wood. I removed the two inspection plates from the top side ofand allowed everything to dry out. Now I have a stripped down bare fiberglass hatch with no wood or any other hardware attached. Next I cut a 3/4" piece of plywood to the same dimenions as the old piece of wood and epoxied it to the underside of the hatch. I used plenty of epoxy and a lot of weight to try to eliminate any air between the wood and the hatch. It seems to have worked, the hatch is solid all over now. Once the epoxy cured I turned the hatch over and used a jigsaw to cut the inspection holes in the wood using the hatch itself as a guide. Then I used more epoxy to cover all the exposed wood including all the exposed edges around the outside and at the inspection plate holes. Once that was dry, I re-installed the inspection covers (with 5200) and re-installed the hatch. I did not replace the fiberglass that I cut off. I only used epoxy to secure and protect the wood. This hatch is as solid as any where on the boat. I forget what grade of plywood I used , but it was not marine or treated. I did like Franco said. I went to Home Depot and got a good quality piece of wood. I was able to find a 4' x 4' sheet that more than enough for the job. There is one thing I would have done different. My hatch had a couple of small cracks in it because thae previous owner walked on it when it was soft and the hatch flexed and cracked. When I repaired the hatch, some epoxy seeped through and now I have a couple of small spots on the deck. I should have patched those cracks before I glued the wood down.

Apparently my tape measure is more accurate than my memory. That was 5/8" plywood I used.

[phatdaddy]

hammer, I replaced my deckdrains with 1" bar sink drains that I got at a plumbing supply house. They were brass. They also came with a nice brass plug that stops the water from coming in. The nipple on the bottom is a little long, but I just cut it off so the barb street ell would fit flush. That was 2 years ago and no problems so far.

[Mulv80]

I did the same as Rick with good results. *If you decide to go this route dont use presure treated plywood, its too wet. *Just use the regular stuff. *You want the wood to accept the fiberglass resin or epoxy. *Also dont use 5200 to seal the hatch, this is a job for 4200 , it has about half the adhesion stength of 5200 making it easier to remove if you have to.

[willy]

PDaddy tell me more about these drains with built in stops please, a pic would be great ;)

[msbhammer]

Send pictures of the bar....drains. Wondering if Home Depot would have them....aka sink drains...right, but smaller, right. ?
Send pictures if you can.
Mike.

[msbhammer]

Hopefully when the boat is done, I can go back to doing this. Its a bit funny seeing all those lost sinkers on the shipwrecks that I dive on.

http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f153/msbhammer/BookCover.jpg

[msbhammer]

Checked E-Bay for 1-inch bar drains with no results. Hopefully I can find two of them at Home Depot. Will check them out today and see what they have.

[msbhammer]

Went to Home Depot twice this morning : )
Didnt find any bar drains in 1-inch, but did find a sink strainer that is 1 1/32. slightly bigger by a hair, but should beable to make it work. Great thinking guys !!
and it didnt break my wallet either : )
Mike.

[phatdaddy]

hammer, you have to go to a plumbing supply house. I install irrigation systems and deal with one on a regular basis. It's a drain for a bar sink. The OD of the drain is a little larger than the Wellcraft original, but the nipple(threaded portion) that sticks out the bottom is 1" thread. I took a step-bit and reamed out the deck hole to get it to fit.
Willy, its not a built in stop,just a brass plug that you have to place in the drain to keep water out, they will also keep water in. When I am bottom fishing or diving, i pop the plugs in to keep water out, when up and running, i pull them to let water drain. I'd do pictures, but I am extremely computer challenged

[Blue_Runner]

30" rain event, leaf clogged scuppers, nice boat went down and now on eBay as a result:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1989-250-Mako-W-A-Twin-2006-Honda-150s_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ63726QQitemZ461088 2043QQrdZ1#ebayphotohosting

[Airslot]

Been outa town , Pittsburgh, for the weekend. If its not too late, go to a plumbing supply store and ask for a 1" Brass Bar stock. Why its called a "stock" and not a drain I'll never know. I did mine a couple years ago and use the plugs when fishing w/ full crew and fuel.

Airslot

[macojoe]

I like it!! I wish I could buy it! But all that wood will have to go!!