carb. rebuild

[phester]

my motor,150 Johnson oceanrunner, started to run a bit rough toward the end of last season. This was only at a troll speed,in fact it stalled a couple of times. Higher speeds and WOT it's fine.Does anybody know the ins and outs or a couple of good pointers before I proceed. My brother used to be a motorcycle mech. for Kawasaki and Yamaha [inluding jetskis]so between his know how and a factory manual it shouldn't be difficult. I don't think I would take on this job myself.....the mechanic I usually deal with gets 125.00 per carb, parts extra, almost a 1000.00 to rebuild???? Insane

[macojoe]

Well it may be carbs, but I would try something different first!!
The problem wit Lg motors is they hate to troll!! They carbon up like hell and then the performance drops off!!

I would try a Decarb first, and then after that run Carbon Gaurd with every tank.

I like to spray the decarb in the night before I am going out, then when I hit the water open her up and blow all the crap out!!

I run a 175 Yamaha and they are know for carbon build up, I decarb once a year and use carbon guard every other tank. works for me.

[Mulv80]

Rebuilding carbs really isnt that difficult as long as you have a factory manual. Buy the factory rebuild kits that come with the float instead of the off brand kits. You will also need a can of decarb. I used Berrymans, they sell it buy the aerosol can or in a large can for dunking parts, I bought the aerosol can. You will also need an air compressor or a can of compressed air for blowing out all the orifices after soaking them in carb cleaner. The hardest part of rebuilding carbs is the float adjustment and the link and synch procedure when the carbs are put back onto the block. In the manual there should be a procedure for the link and synch. Hope this helps.

[willy]

Phes I would do the decarb routine MJ is talking about before I would get into the carb routine. Unless you have already done that.
I have the 99 115 johnson and I was having trouble getting to proper max rpm when I first bought the boat from Fillet1 . I bought the stuff I needed for a full decarb, did it the right way and ran a special fuel conditioner cleaner on the heavy side of the mix requirement, ran it like MJ said and it was like I white fogged the neighborhood for awhile. When I was done I put new plugs in and took it to the ocean and I was running 5600-5700 rpm no problem. Previously I was told I needed a carb rebuild by a mechanic ::) I think the stuff I have been using since is called Sea Foam to keep it from carb ing up again and keeping the carbs clean, recommended highly by several boat people and a few guys on this site

[Skools Out]

hey Phes rebuilding them most likely won't fix the problem. The air jets are bad about getting stopped up and that will cause them to idle rough or none at all. take an air hose and blow out the 3 air jets that should fix your problem. i do mine every spring and then about the mid to end of summer.

[Skools Out]

i'll get a pic of where to blow them out tomorrow.

[willy]

Good Skools we all need to see that

[phester]

thanks fellas ,yeah, I'm gonna monkey around w/ it befor I pull the trigger on a rebuild,Skools those pics you're talking about just might do the trick

[Geekie1]

Phester, I agree with doing the de-carb before doing anything else. IMHO, Carbon buildup causes alot of problems including low compression etc. I use seafoam and add it to 3/4 gallon of gas in a small (3gallon) external gas tank. If you go to Iboats forum website (www.iboats.com) and do a search on decarb you will see the processes in detail. There are two Seafoam decarb products. One is a spray in the cylinders I think named Deep Creep or whatever and another is just "Seafoam" that gets added to 3/4 gallon of gas and running the engine using the mixture or vice-versa. Don't do it in your driveway unless you like cleaning up a horrendus black mess or explaining to the fireman that your boat isn't on fire. I do it on the water on a remote beach or some other isolated location. After de-carbing, replace the spark plugs. I have a home made spark checker that I use to check that the spark on my Yammie can jump 7/16". (Yammie spec.) There is a thread on Iboats forum that describes the homemade spark checker. I wouldn't start with the carbs until after the above has been done. I hope this helps!!

Ed G.

[Crusher]

Hey Geekie1, I live in Crosskeys two houses up from Grosses Chicken? Crusher

[Skools Out]

here's the pictures
This is one of the carbs off a 225

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a46/Skools_Out/Motors/Carb002.jpg

these are the high / low jets clean them out. i take them out usually and clean in laquer thinner or just blow air in them to keep open. just don't mix them up and make sure all carbs have the same jet numbers. these are as follows upper is intermediate orifice #47 and lower is idle air orifice #34 in this case

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a46/Skools_Out/Motors/Carb004.jpg

Under this is the main fuel jet take to cap out and fuel should run out there is a number 62D or 63D jet in them usually. these are know as the High speed orifice #62D in this case

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a46/Skools_Out/Motors/Carb003.jpg

this is the air passage port cover can remove it and clean that too it will get stopped up too.

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a46/Skools_Out/Motors/Carb001.jpg

can open the bowl area / float chamber. this has the float, needle, and seat.

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a46/Skools_Out/Motors/Carb005.jpg

you can do these with out needing a rebuild kit.just be careful opening the covers without hurting the gaskets. Hope this helps

[Skools Out]

what yr is your motor and model number i'll tell you what you should have for orifice's

[macojoe]

Thanks the pic's look great!!

[Geekie1]

Crusher,

I live on New Rd, off of Spring Valley Rd. between Rt 313 (Swamp) and Pebble Hill Rd. Been there for 24 yrs. My V20 is in the driveway.

Geekie1

[Blue_Runner]

Nice work Skools! I learned something there!
8)

[Mulv80]

If you are going to go through the trouble of removing the carbs and disassembling the jets and float bowl, why not just clean them and rebuild them with new gaskets, needle, seat, and float. The kits are like $25 each. ???

[Skools Out]

i would just clean the 2 smaller jets first with air plus to rebuild 6 of them is $150 for the kits and to clean is just FREE spare time.

[phester]

what yr is your motor and model number i'll tell you what you should have for orifice's
Skools thanks man....here's the #....J150EXENC

[Skools Out]

ok here's the orifice info

ORIFICE

Part# 0328560
ORIFICE, #47, 150 HP Early Production with 433342 or 433343 Stamped on Carburetor. These Assemblies and Related Parts Must Be Used Together.

Part# 0334568
ORIFICE, #39, 150 HP Late Production with 435528 or 435529 Stamped On Carburetor. These Assemblies and Related Parts Must Be Used Together.

Part# 0317473
ORIFICE, #30, 175 HP

IDLE AIR ORIFICE

Part# 0323703
ORIFICE, Idle air bleed, #36, 150 HP Early Production with 433342 or 433343 Stamped on Carburetor. These Assemblies and Related Parts Must Be Used Together.

Part# 0325827
ORIFICE, Idle air bleed, #44, 150 HP Late Production with 435528 or 435529 Stamped On Carburetor. These Assemblies and Related Parts Must Be Used Together.

Part# 0327745
ORIFICE, Idle air bleed, #40, 175 HP


HIGH SPEED ORIFICE
Part# 0322907
ORIFICE, High speed, #57D, 150 HP

Part# 0328546
ORIFICE, High speed, #72D, 175 HP


If you notice the bottom set are 175 HP the 175 that yr was the exact same motor as your just different carb body's and orifices if you find a used set of 175 HP carbs on ebay you can change them and make yours a 175 HP. Before i were to rebuild the stock set i'd find a 175 set and put them on.

[Skools Out]

by the way that's a 1992 Johnson 150 HP 25" built in Canada by the model numbers ;D

[Franco]

If this site was Gilligans Island, Skools would be the professor!

[Skools Out]

lol Thanks there lil buddy ;D

[Franco]

I'm more Skipper size than Gilligan size, but thanks

[Skools Out]

the #5 is the one labeled ORIFICE

the #15 is the one labeled HIGH SPEED ORIFICE

the #19 is the one labeled IDLE AIR ORIFICE

http://epc.brp.com/Scripts/ImgServ.exe/convert?ilFN=%5C%5Crtecomprod%5Cwebcat%5Cimages%5C 41%5C434999%5C14.TIF&ilSC=75&ilIV=0&ilBR=0&ilIF=G& ilRE=8

[phester]

WOW....thanks professor.....[ Maryanne still wearing those tight little shorts?]....tell her I said hi

[Skools Out]

lol hope that's the info you needed and hope that helps. i'll see if i have a set of 175's laying around if you want to upgrade.

[phester]

lol hope that's the info you needed and hope that helps. i'll see if i have a set of 175's laying around if you want to upgrade.
I'm starting to like that idea,thanks skools

[willy]

Thanks Professor learned something there ;)
And by the way I took MaryAnns shorts off a long time ago, sniffed them while I was spanking Ginger, I took them both for a three hour tour 8)

[Franco]

what did you do for the 2 hours and 57 minutes?

[Skools Out]

;D ;D ;DLMFAO ;D ;D ;D THAT WAS A GOOD ON FRAN

[Blue_Runner]

Yeah, we know about the first 3 minutes:

Minute 1: Sit down, pour glass of water, take two viagra
Minute 2: Get undressed, lay down, wait.
Minute 3: Watched Mary Ann and Ginger get warmed up

So, I too would like to know about the additional 2:57??

[willy]

Obviously you fine gentlemen have mistaken me for a southern boy, we here in the north can go double that amount of time without even trying, maybe even 7 or 8 minutes ;)

[Franco]

Well it's hot down here in the south, guess that explains the difference

[Skools Out]

yeah the heat kills us lol

[phester]

the rebuild is done and it was pretty easy. I would have not tried it on my own, it was no problem for my younger brother. It took about five hours to get thru all six carbs. They were in good shape as far as not being dirty or gummed up. The float on one carb was way out of wack causing it to run lean and one main jet was very loose and two more were a little loose. Cleaned them all up , blew em all out readjusted all the floats, installed the rebuild kits and "wallah" immediate noticeable difference when we started it. Thru the whole procedure I did find a couple of potential fuel leaks on all the hoses up around the powerhead so I will replace them next.It would have been close to 1000.00 to have it done, cost me about 65.00 and five hours time.....very happy.....now just gotta get her belly wet

[phester]

p.s. thank you brother Charlie,... nice having a motorhead in the family