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thefireguy
11-22-2006, 08:08 PM
Recently I got a free boat. Here's a quick story. I saw an add in the paper for a trailer for $200.00 and Free boat. Went to check out the trailer ( Was going to use it for a john boat), but thought about possibly re-doing the boat, but not sure if it's even worth it. So far I've removed the deck, and all the trees (hahha). *I've been trying to figure out what model it is. The title says 1971 wellcraft, 17 ft. that it. Was looking for some help.

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q105/usn_fire_fighter/MVC-002F.jpg

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q105/usn_fire_fighter/MVC-008F.jpg

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q105/usn_fire_fighter/MVC-007F.jpg

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q105/usn_fire_fighter/MVC-005F.jpg


http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q105/usn_fire_fighter/MVC-004F.jpg

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q105/usn_fire_fighter/MVC-003F.jpg

msbhammer
11-22-2006, 08:30 PM
Fireguy, welcome to the site. Good luck with the project. We are a bunch of picture junkies, so keep the pictures coming. ;D

reelapeelin
11-22-2006, 08:54 PM
Fireguy...congrats on the boat...it does have a wellcraft look to it, but I just haven't seen it...


Looks like OSB board there...if you're just using for walk-board, great, but recommend you don't install as floor in a boat...

Good luck w/ the project and keep us posted on how it goes... :D ...likin' those pics... ;) ..

msbhammer
11-22-2006, 09:28 PM
If the Stringers and transom are fine. Go for it. A perfect boat to learn your skills on if you never did boat repairs before. ;D ;D

lumberslinger178
11-22-2006, 10:20 PM
cool pics

thefireguy
11-22-2006, 10:55 PM
Reel,
Yea, the wood in there only for walking. Sitll haven't figured out what kind of wood I'm gonna use. A friend of mine was saying 1/2" and put fiberglass over the edges, then seal it. If yall have any inputs let me know. I'm thinking on placing the drivers chair and one other next to it, and putting 2 more seats in the rear of the boat. I'll primarily be using it for fishing. But first I have to float test it to make sure it even floats. I just need new leaf springs and tires. I'll keep yall posted.

msbhammer
11-23-2006, 02:01 AM
Plenty of guys here to give advise. Like SKOOL and plenty more. *She looks like she will float. * ;)

turbinedoctor
11-23-2006, 02:38 AM
I think it will be a great do it yourselfer.

You get to make it the way you want it.

Good luck.




Wheres Skools at, havent heard from him lately. :(

fishbonejr
11-23-2006, 02:57 AM
yea he must be MIA now. is he one of the members that fell overboard.

turbinedoctor
11-23-2006, 04:48 AM
Well if he fell over I'm sure he will float with what he is filled with. ;D

turbinedoctor
11-23-2006, 04:54 AM
I like the idea of 1/2" plywood as long as it is salt treated. Then wrap the edges like you discussed and glass the whole floor.

Might want to consider some pipe under the floor for pulling wires through.

Kajun
11-23-2006, 06:24 AM
one question..does the engine run? if not....its not worth it...to the scrap it goes!..but if the engine runs and the transom is solid ..heck throw another floor in there and go fishing!

turbinedoctor
11-23-2006, 06:50 AM
How bout if he could find a cheap repower on ebay for around 1000.00

shore-power
11-23-2006, 08:45 AM
A friend of mine has that same boat. His has a floor though ;D
Exact same boat. I will ask him what model it is. Its a decent inshore ride. His has a newer 60 Johnson on it and it pushes it fine.

msbhammer
11-23-2006, 09:23 AM
Theres a boat like that on E-Bay. Didnt catch the name though. ;D

reelapeelin
11-23-2006, 11:53 AM
Fireguy, 1/2'' ply isn't thick enough...it should be 3/4''...you'll need that thickness to have a solid/rigid floor to mount those seats...1/2'' isn't enough...


Turbo suggested goin' w treated stock...there's actually a "marine-grade'' you might wanna consider, but whatever you use, make sure it's DRY...some of the guys have used the spray-in bed-liner for PU trucks for boat floors...keep the pics comin' on the progress...


;)

macojoe
11-23-2006, 01:22 PM
3/4 marine ply is the way to go!

But if all you can get or afford is regular 3/4 then after you cut it all out and have it dry fitted,

take it out, put a good coat of resin minus the hardener and let soak in over night, then add another coat of resin with hardener, this will insure that the resin soaked in and then when you coat with resin & hardener it will seal it all up for ya!

Make sure you do both sides and edges!! Glass in the floor to the edges and all seems you will be good to go for a top coat of choice

reelapeelin
11-23-2006, 01:38 PM
3/4 marine ply is the way to go!

But if all you can get or afford is regular 3/4 then after you cut it all out and have it dry fitted,

take it out, put a good coat of resin minus the hardener and let soak in over night, then add another coat of resin with hardener, this will insure that the resin soaked in and then when you coat with resin & hardener it will seal it all up for ya!

Make sure you do both sides and edges!! Glass in the floor to the edges and all seems you will be good to go for a top coat of choice




BRILLIANT!! ;D ;D ...

thefireguy
11-23-2006, 01:53 PM
Yea, about the motor, it's a Chrystler 105, I think she'll run. It's not siezed, and looks like just some minor cleaning. Going to float test first, then try to start the motor. If both are good, then I'm going to start the project.

8barrel
11-23-2006, 09:01 PM
I used regular plywood in a '64 Starcraft. I gave them 3 coats of epoxy and 6 coats on the edges. You dont want the edges sucking up any water. Good luck with the project.

spareparts
11-24-2006, 01:43 AM
never had any luck getting resin to stick to treated, just allways used forming grade playwood, its one step below marine, they use it to form concrete, sometimes you can find it at the super stores, usually has a red paint on the edge, can't remember the official name for it, but its exterior grade with a B/C finish. I allways thin my resin with acetone, you can go up to 1/4 acetone before it will cause the resin to not kick, you will have to mix it a little hot, the thined resin will penetrate the wood, giving a better bond, next time you have some uncut resin sitting around, mix it and paint a piece of ply with it, wait till the next day and smack it with a hammer, it usually will pop off in chunks, not what you want on you're floor

LESTERUS
11-28-2006, 04:06 PM
FIREGUY, WELCOME TO THE SITE. I THINK 3/4" FORMING PLYWOOD WILL DO FINE.

AS FOR THE SEATS ARRANGEMENT, YOU COUL LOOK INTO THE GALLERIES AND SEE THE DIFFERENT VARIATIONS PEOPLE HAVE IN THERE.

LESTERUS

bigshrimpin
11-28-2006, 05:31 PM
I don't recognize the boat as a wellcraft, but it's possible that it was built before 1970. 1972 was when all boats had to be titled, so it's possible that someone just made up the information and the boat got a homemade HIN like "FLZ".
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If you continue with this project you'll learn a valuable lesson about "free" boats. The work is rewarding, but you're going to piss off your wife/girlfriend with the mess, obsessing, and ammount of time you spend on the boat. It's a vicious downward spiral.
Whatever you do don't add up the ammout of time you spend working on it . . . b/c when you multiply that number by the minimum wage . . . you'll be really upset with yourself, because you could have easily bought a really nice boat.
When you add that number with the ammount of money you spent on acetone, mixing cup, rollers, new fuel tank, hoses, wiring, rigging, fiberglass resin and mat, roving, cloth, cabosil, microballons, qcell, gelcoat, paint, an entirely new wardrobe (b/c you ruin all your clothes) and rubber gloves . . . You'll cry.
It took me 3 boats to figure this out and I'm still in denial. It's fun, educational and rewarding, but unless that boat is what you really really want . . . my advice is to cut your loses now.

thefireguy
11-28-2006, 06:07 PM
Yea, I know what you mean. A lot of the lakes around heare only allow 9.9 motors or electric. There are a few lakes in the area (very few) that have unlimeted HP. I'm still debating if I would get my money's worth out of this boat if I re-did it, or just say screw it, and only keep the trailer (That's all I really wanted in the first place).

bigshrimpin
11-28-2006, 07:10 PM
You'll get $250 bucks easy selling off the chrysler outboard and the parts on that boat or even listing the entire boat (w/o trailer) for $250. If you do this a few times you'll be able to satisfy your emotional need to work on boats and make enough $$$ on the parts to buy the boat you really want.

Honestly . . . when you add up all the expenses (not even including any of the time) . . . The is no way you could come close to breaking even redoing that boat. Break your emotional ties to that project and ask yourself is this truely the boat that I want to spend the next 5 years of my life with . . . if the answer is "no" then lose it.

;)

bigshrimpin
11-28-2006, 07:59 PM
To beat this dead horse . . . If the boat, motor, trailer combo were in perfect shape (i.e. fully restored) how much would you pay for it?

a. $1000
b. $2000
c. $3000

Blue_Runner
11-29-2006, 05:10 PM
d. none of the above ;D

bigshrimpin
11-29-2006, 11:36 PM
never had any luck getting resin to stick to treated, just always used forming grade plywood, its one step below marine, they use it to form concrete, sometimes you can find it at the super stores, usually has a red paint on the edge, can't remember the official name for it, but its exterior grade with a B/C finish.

Spares - I think your talking about MDO medium density overlay or HDO high density overlay. smooth paper face on one or two sides . . . I used MDO to raise my stringers 1.5" on a project (that I wish I never started). It was great stuff. A 4x8 of 3/4 cost me roughly $60 (typical west coast gouge).
http://www.wellcraftv20.com/gallery/albums/album18/P1010190.sized.jpg

Hammerhead
12-10-2006, 11:31 PM
Reel,
Yea, the wood in there only for walking. Sitll haven't figured out what kind of wood I'm gonna use. A friend of mine was saying 1/2" and put fiberglass over the edges, then seal it. If yall have any inputs let me know..

I replaced a soft deck on my Bonito using marine plywood fastened with SS screws and two part glue.( I used 1/2 ply) you may wanna use 5/8. I rolled a coat of two part polyester resin on the bottom side and edges before screwing it to the stringers,two layers of mat and cloth on the top with resin. For extra strenght I added two part foam under it by drilling 2" holes to allow for expansion. It's rock solid and takes a beating w/o any give.

thefireguy
12-11-2006, 01:22 AM
Alright time for an update. I got the motor off the boat (After having to cut the motor bolts) and removed all the bolts in the transom (all of them snapped) and yep, you could probably guess, I need to replace the transom. There was dirt ( not wood) and a few roots. So I'm about halfway done with removing all of the old wood. A buddy of mine as saying that it isn't too hard to replace the wood. *I was going to float test, but before I could, *the wife said don't even think of going out and buying new wheels for the trailer. Christmas is in 2 weeks. (guess what I know what I'm getting for X-mas.... but like I said, I didn't pay a dime for it and it will definantly be good practice on repairs.

bigshrimpin
12-13-2006, 07:16 PM
NOOOOOOOOOOooooooooooooo!!! Stop before it's too late.
I know I sound like a jerk, but these comments are based on mistakes I've made.

Pretend this is a choose your own adventure book.

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Choice A: You spend $50 here, $100 there and every weekend in 2007 grinding fiberglass. You bust your hump getting the boat ready for the 2007 summer (but it still looks amature, b/c it was your first fiberglass job and you rushed to get it done).
The 3rd trip of the year that motor blows up after your dumped $500 to get it in running condition. You're mad at your wife b/c she won't let you spend another $2000 to repower. Now . . . You just spent every free minute of 2007 working on the boat, you've spent $4000 (but you won't know b/c you didn't save the receipts), the boat doesn't run and looks like hell. 2 weeks before christmas you are forced to dump the boat (b/c no one will buy it) and sell the trailer with new wheels for $250 to buy the presents.
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Choice B: You sell the trailer and motor separately and make $400 - $500 bucks. Buy a copy of the book "rich dad poor dad", get a second job (a long term goal oriented job), invest the $500 + money you make at the second job. Next christmas buy $4000 boat, have $10,000 in the bank, and have 1year of meaningful goal oriented experience.
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willy
12-13-2006, 09:18 PM
Big Shrimpin is talking from experience, for my two cents I will say this.
When you have a boat, a car, hunting camp, super model on the side, ahh scratch that last one different paradigm. And it is something you love and you have a vision for what it will be for you go ahead and make it part of your life. Yes BS is right about everything he said. For BS. But I know he has spent untold hours and money on his beloved boats. It is one of his passions and he would probably do it again if that right boat comes along.
That is the key isn't it, for men if it makes you happy and a vision of an accomplishment is there, spend the money and enjoy. If you are not rebuilding it for profit, for the learning experience which you can at least break even on or for a vision of something you will use and enjoy and be proud of for years to come, cut your losses or in your case sell it and make a few bucks.

thefireguy
12-13-2006, 11:37 PM
I agree. Not to beat a dead horse, but I origionally bought just the trailer. That's all I really wanted in the beginning for a small john boat to hit some of the lakes around here. Most of the lakes only allow 9.9hp or electric motors, so for right now, I think it would only make sense to get something that would be practical. So i'm going to have to find a junkyard that will take the boat. Thanks for all the help.