Transoms outer skin has been removed

[Warner_Foster]

Took two half hours with a 4 1/2 " angle grinder to bevel and grind through the outer skin. Then only 30 minutes to remove the skin from the rotted mush. WOW the dust is something else. Have some pictures of the project. Will post as soon as I read the"How To" severial times.
Just for information the gel coat and fiberglass on a 1978, V20 Cutty Cabin is right at 7/16 of an inch thick. would have never guessed it would be that thick. That thickness will be a great base for rebuilding the transom.
In your collective and learned openion which is the best epoxy filler for me to use along with one 3/4 inch and one 1/2 inch plywood between the inner and outer skin of the transom? Also, what do any of you know about www.epoxyproducts.com?

[macojoe]

I have never did a full transom job, But I did know that the glass was thick!! I had to fill my hole when I converted from I/O to the gill bracket.

I used two 3/4 ply's (1 1/2) to make the same thickness? But you say its only 1 1/4 ?

Any way what I did was glass the 2 boards toghter and in thur the inside. Then I used matt in layers till I made the hole the same thickness as the rest of the transom.

So what do you have to fill? If you fill the transom with the same thickness in ply, you should just have to glass the skin back on right?

Just trying to understand in case I ever have to do a hole transom.
Can't wait till you post pictures, and the rest of the info!! ;)

[Airslot]

Should be two layers of 3/4" to make that transom? I'd try to have my pieces cut and prepped. You may have to do one piece at a time to get it to make the curve that we have in the transom? Either that, or if working with both pieces use a dozen or so 3/8" thru-bolts with fender washer to pull it all together until it kicks, then go back and patch the holes.

Airslot

[Stillrunning]

I used two sheets of 3/4 ply that I used west system to join them with a few screws to pull them together I then covered with a thin sheet of fiberglass. I had to put on one section at a time and I believe it was in four sections( when I say one scetion at a time it was secure one add the next) .I had two people helping one mixing the resin and the other helping to put it in. Instead of using thru bolts i drilled holes for wood screws below the water line then any other holes I had for tow cleats, scups etc.. I used a small peice of wood with a wood screw to pull it tight (the small peice of wood is on the out side like a washer). Then I collected all the different clamps I could find and went to town. Places where I used the small peice of wood as washers rub some wax around the out side of the hole because resin will squirt out and the wax will keep it from bonding to outer gelcoat. Using this method you will not damage the outer gel coat. I then came back and drilled out all the thu holes and coated them with west system. I used West System on recommendations from a friend who works on boats its more expensive but he siad don't go cheap on the transom. One other thing is to dry fit everthing first to see which way is best to install the new transom. I hop this helps some.

[Warner_Foster]

Because 3/4 plywood is not really 3/4 of an inch thick believe I can get two sheets in the void.
The reason for the filler question is two fold. One there are areas in the transom which the factory added extra rosin/fillerthat prevents the plywood from fitting snug. Second there are lots of chip outs, drilled holes, etc which must be filled.
The question concerning the Epoxy Products Co. is that they have a lot of epoxy products for boats and the prices seem to be lower than other companies.

[msbhammer]

Pictures would be great on this topic. I always seem to get lost on this topic. So mine is an 1986 with really no access to the transom from the inside. So I would then simply cut the out skin off to get to the wood. Tear out the wood and simply wet/glass in new wood to the inner skin ? Then reseal the out skin to the wood and glass over the cut out pattern ? What about where the transom meets the outer gunnels ?

[Warner_Foster]

Have attempted seven times to get set up with Photobucket; rejected each time because of their code. Have Kodak Easy Share. Would be glad to E-mail the pictures to someone and they post them.
As for the gunnels. Using a sawsall cut the fiberglass/gelcoat and the outer skin slipped out. The plywood only goes up about an inch under the gunnel.
To put a curve in the plywood to match the transom curve, I will place the ends of the plywood about 6 inches off the ground and put a log in the center. I believe, after afew days I will have a curve set in the plywood. Just like standing it up against a wall.

[parishht]

I also have an easyshare account and I tried an experiment.
It did not work, but what you could do is share a gallery and then post a link here.

Example, I shared the album with myself and then add the link below
after opening the share e-mail.

http://www.kodakgallery.com/Slideshow.jsp?mode=fromshare&Uc=dul4zkl.b76nonpp&U y=i7p7u6&Ux=0

These pictures are from this past summers vacation with my son
and his fiance.

[parishht]

HAMMER, at WEST along the back wall where they have all the glassing supplies,
they have a good book that is a resonable price,
It is called "Fiberglass Boat Repair & Maintenance"

I am sure it was less than $10.00
Here is a scan of the front cover:

http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g18/parishht/fiberglassbook.jpg

[macojoe]

Send them to me, [email protected]

[msbhammer]

Parishht, great pics. ;D I know the location ;D Cruising in the Lewes canal. ;D
The wreck is off the Cape MAy beach as well, right. ;D
Good book on glass work, I'll check it out. Thanks. 8)
I believe my transom is ok, but if I went with a bracket in the future, I might consider the task of redoing the transom.

[parishht]

How did you like the pic of my son holding the fishing rod,
trolling in the Lewes canal?

He was just playing around.

Yes, the wreck is the cement ship over at Cape May.
We took my sons fiance to show her,
she grew up in Los Angles, so we took her on the ferry as well.

[msbhammer]

Great Pics. Was hoping to get my V to Cape May, they have that great seafood resturant on the canal.

[parishht]

The Lobster House, with cocktails on the wooden sloop.
I would love to make the trip, but the wife just can't do it.
She even has a problem with the ferry.

[msbhammer]

Thats right, a few coctails on the sloop. Been there twice, loved it. Was hoping to get the V down there in the future. Pulling into the resturant with smoke blowing from the motor. ;D

[Blue_Runner]

Parishht - thats one big lobster. :o

Your son looks like a chip off the ol block ;) Nice pix!

[parishht]

The lobster was at the fisherman's wharf in Cape May, NJ,
They always have all sizes.

Everybody tells me that he looks just like me when I was younger. He's a really good kid.

[msbhammer]

http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f153/msbhammer/repair5.jpg

[msbhammer]

http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f153/msbhammer/reapair4.jpg

[msbhammer]

http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f153/msbhammer/repair7.jpg

[msbhammer]

http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f153/msbhammer/repair6.jpg

[msbhammer]

Following Pics were from W. Foster. I just posted them for him. Great work. ;D

http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f153/msbhammer/repair8.jpg

[msbhammer]

Want to see how you reglass the outter skin back on. Post step by step pics. if you can. ;D

[turbinedoctor]

I'll be watching this pretty close. It's looking really good now. I hope to gain a lot of knowledge, I may have to do mine soon.


As to the Kodak easy share, I also have one, but dont use the supplied software that came with it. I just download from the SD card straight to my computer and it works like any other picture.

[msbhammer]

So after the new wood is installed, he will wet the wood with West System, so I am guessing that will bond to the outer skin ? ???

[reelapeelin]

If mine ever goets to that point, it'll get put back as a straight, 25" transom and eliminate the 20'' notch...even if I gotta find extension for Honda foot ;) ...that's some great lookin' work, Warner...keep the pics and info flowin' 8) ...and thanks for the assist, Hammer ;) ;D ...you da MAN!!...

[Airslot]

IF I were putting it back together, I would probably scuff the inside surface, wet out a piece of heavy cloth with epoxy, then 1 sheet of wood, cloth, wood, then outer skin.

There is also the chance that I would do it wrong :o

Airslot

[cfelton]

hey ,that fiberglass is some nasty stuff huh! Ive rebuilt a few transoms on wooden and glass boats,its a tough job. I did all mine from the inside. I left the outer skin in place to have something to clamp and screw the plyboard to.I used all the holes where swim platform,steps,gimble ect were mounted to put a 2x2 inch block with a stainless steel screw through to pull the plywood tight to the existing glass until the resin squeeses out everywhere.Use plenty of resin. Avoid all air pockets.looks like youll need a lot of long clamps.Check out Wellcraft v20 transom repair,they have some good ideas you might could use.I bought my resin,catylist and chopped mat from local boat builders .I talked with Carolina Classic builders,They use douglass fir,said the resin adheres to it better than pine marine ply.I used marine ply ,it came out fine.looks like you have it under control,keep a eye on the shape of your transom,dont lose that curve!

[reelapeelin]

clefton...to do one from the inside, doncha have to remove the cap?...sounds painful...I guess that's why he went from outside...I think I would... ;) ...

[Airslot]

Another way to do it from the inside is to cut out the splashwell and rear portion of the liner. Its a lot of work to do and glass back in. The guy down the street from me does it that way most times.

Airslot

[Stinky_Hooker]

Another way to do it from the inside is to cut out the splashwell and rear portion of the liner. *Its a lot of work to do and glass back in. *The guy down the street from me does it that way most times.

Airslot

Werd, Thats how I have done a couple and was doing the 20 before I got rid of her.

[msbhammer]

Cutting out the splashwell and cap. Sounds pretty tricky to me. :-/

[msbhammer]

W.Foster, have ya done anymore work on her. Make the temp pattern yet ??

[Airslot]

As long as your will to repaint the transom, I have no issues with going at it fromthe backside. If I had to do mine today, I'd probably go at it just like Warner.

Airslot

[cfelton]

reel,i didnt remove the transom cap.I cut about 10 inches off the rear of the liner floor,angled it up to about 2-3 inches up the sides to the top of the gunwale.I got ALL the old wood and sprayed in chopped mat and resin out with a 4 inch grinder clean to the outer skin.I then washed it down with acetone a couple of times.Then built it back up with mat and resin until I had a flat surface to glass the plyboard to. I cut the plyboard into three sections ,using cardboard templates i made so as to have correct fits.As I bonded the plyboard to the outer skin ,I used the existing holes in the transom to put wood screws through 2x2 blocks and in the holes into the plyboard, pulling it tight up to the outer skin. I also used all the C and wood clamps I had around in the gimble hole.You have to be careful not to squeeze out too much resin,as it will leave you with a dry joint. I doubled the 3/4 inch ply in the middle section to build the transom back up to 2 inches. After getting all the plyboard in I put an additional 3-4 layers of glass over all my work. I tied my new stringers back in and built a new engine bed for the front mount and a mount for the bilge pump.After covering all with layers glass, I primed and painted all with marine paint.I removed all the screws and blocks from the outside ,chopped up mat really fine and packed in the holes in the empty holes in the transom. I put shorter stainless screws in some of the holes at different spots and glassed over them too,building it back up flat with the outside of the transom .got my neighbor to spray the outside with color and clear Emron paint. After all was done I put the sections of floor back in , glassed over the seam and color matched some gelcoat to cover it all. It really wasnt that complicated, just took a lot of time and elbow grease. I used 2 sheets of 3/4 ply and about nine gallons of resin and a whole lot of heavy chopped mat. I put it back like wellcraft did it and beefed it up a little more. I also glassed around the inside of the hole where the gimble goes,where ALL the bolts go and the drain hole.

[cfelton]

Oh I forgot to mention how many times I bumped my head on the underside of that transom cap! man that hurt,and dont forget to get yourself a few cases of beer to calm your nerves, youll need em!

[randlemanboater]

Has anyone ever used anything besides wood to repair a transom?

I know there are boats on the market now boasting of no wood construction. Just seems like if you go to all the trouble to replace rot you should put something back in that wont rot again.

[JeffXJ]

Has anyone ever used anything besides wood to repair a transom?

Hold that question. I might be able to answer that in the near future. I'm planning on replacing my transom core with Coosa Board. I can already tell you one downside is cost. Reatil for 1 sheet of Bluewater 26 3/4" x 4' x 8' is around 180 bucks. (1 inch thick is about $210) Times that by 2 (of the 3/4") if your looking for the original thickness of the V20 transom. Needless to say if your looking to go thicker it gets more expensive.

[Warner_Foster]

No new progress on the transom. The temp. has been 48 to 52 degrees and windy, a wee bit cool for me.
Will put two sheets of 3/4 " plywood back in. Why, the first plywood without any TLC lasted 25 plus years. Plus it is many times cheaper than composits. Will put bolts through the lift eye holes, motor bolt holes, drain holes etc. If necessary will drill additional holes for bolts if needed. Also am considering (in addition to bolts) chaining off 4x4's to the trailer frame and pulling pulling them from the top with a come-along braced inside the boat.
However, am sanding and refinishing all the Teak. What a fun task.
Need one Teak guide (the long ones) for the cutty cabin sliding top.
I am always open to suggestions. Have never done anything like this before. However I did spend the night in a Holiday End Express.

[76GMC1500]

Plywood holds screws better and is stronger than any composites, don't let anybody tell you it's a bad choice. Also, composites are also subject to the same delamination damage due to water intrustion just like woods are.

[Warner_Foster]

Had I been able to get all the wood out of the transom without cutting I was considering a product called Sea
Cast. Based on limited research Sea Cast appears to be a great product. I understand that it is hard foam and you pour it in the cleaned out transom. The boat can be used a day later.

[macojoe]

If I ever have to do my transom, I will do the Seacast, just for the ease of doing it!
The outside transom is so thick, add the inside glass with the Seacast I think it will be more then strong enough even if all wood isn't out.
I will add knee boards from the stringers to the inside and glass them to the transom for extra support.

But I am hoping that I never have to do it!!

[Stillrunning]

clefton...to do one from the inside, doncha have to remove the cap?...sounds painful...I guess that's why he went from outside...I think I would... ;) ...
Taking the boat apart is not really that hard of a job. I did a center consol that way and we had the boat ready to take apart in one day. We just labled and unhooked the wiring ,throttle, and stering cables. Removed the CC and loosened all gas lines and that type stuff. Unscrewed the two and made a hoist in a big tree limb and using a truck raised the inner linning and pushed the trailer out of the way and lowered back to the ground. Now you have total access to stringers, transom, and the wood on the underneth the flooring. I say we had apart in two days max. The time spent removing the two sections will be used fiberglassing and painting the outer skin. I did just about like cfelton did his from the inside.

[labii]

WF , any progress ?

[reelapeelin]

Taking the boat apart is not really that hard of a job. I did a center consol that way and we had the boat ready to take apart in one day. We just labled and unhooked the wiring ,throttle, and stering cables. Removed the CC and loosened all gas lines and that type stuff. Unscrewed the two and made a hoist in a big tree limb and using a truck raised the inner linning and pushed the trailer out of the way and lowered back to the ground. Now you have total access to stringers, transom, and the wood on the underneth the flooring. I say we had apart in two days max. The time spent removing the two sections will be used fiberglassing and painting the outer skin. I did just about like cfelton did his from the inside.





After the motor's off, it's probably pretty easy ;) ...




...and I've got it on pretty good authority w/two trusted witnesses...choice of core material doesn't matter if the job's done properly...even if the new synthetic cores are used and not sealed right, they'll soak water like a sponge ;) ...