trailer bearings / tires

[Sean]

Alright I have never replaced/repact the bearings in a triler, I dont even know exactly were they are located ::), I know in the hub but have never seen them.
The boat/trailer is up on stands and the lugs on the tires are off/loosen (WOW was that hard, rusted and stuck!) I did a search on the site but couldnt find to much on the , "how To" of the bearings process, so any help, pointers, directions will be apreciated!!
Also, can you test tire pressure with the tire off the trailer?? ???

[macojoe]

easy part first, yes you can test the tire perrsure with tire off. *also always test while tire is cold, when hot they read higer!

Tires off trailer you see the center of the hub, take the cap off,
you will see a cotter pin, remove it,
some have a little cage thing next some don't, remove if so.
then you unscrew the nut, there will be a washer then the bearing. just pull the hub off and it will come right out.

Not filp over there is a seal on there, take off, don't worry about breaking it cause you are going to replace any way!!
After thats out you will see rear bearing, it will drop right out.

Now clean all with some degreaser and inspect, are they still nice and sliver looking? Put on fingers and turn, do they make noise? *Are there any rust or pitting?

If all is good then its time to repack, I bought this and it saves time and does a great job!! You can get any auto store.

http://www.drivewerks.com/catalog/shopcart/TOOL/POR_TOOL_CAT265_pg52.htm

you will also have to go to boaters world or a trailer place near you to get a new seal for the rear, some auto stores carry them also Napa is good with boat parts.


So now you have all your stuff clean, you have all your new parts, and you have greased your bearings, start with the rear (bigger bearing) lay a nice bead of grease in on the race (wear the bearing rests) push bearing on, then set seal square and lay a 2 x 4 on it, hit with hammer till seated, Careful not to ruin it!!

Now grease the axle and put hub on,
add some more grease,
grease the race and set bearing,
put washer,
then nut,
get nut snug NOT TIGHT,
put tire on,
now wiggle the tire, do you feel wiggle?? if so, turn nut till tire is just tight and STOP!

If tire is tight then losen till its just loose, the idea is to get it tight with out any drag when you spin it, to tight you will drag and burn the bearings out, to lose you will wobble and ruin bearings and lose the tire.

After you get the nut were you need to, add that cage thing if you have and then the cotter pin.

At this point you can tap the old cover on, or put some bearing buddys on, they are caps with a grease fitting in the middle so you can add grease to them when needed. *I would go with the bearing buddys if it was me.


Now if you removed the bearings and found themm to be damaged then ther is a whole different instruction!!

But we will save that till you see what you got.

[Mac_Attack]

MJ U R good! Billy Mac ;D

[Seacrets]

I bought my bearing buddys from MJ a few years back. When you add grease to a bearing buddy, only grease till you see the plunger move. If you overgrease, you'll blow out the rear seal.

[Sean]

MJ, perfect directions, what could go wrong ;D

Well I have these things/caps called, Reliabe Sure Lube. I assume they are the same as bearing buddies, but I cant find much info about them. They have the grease fitting and there site (minimal info) basicly states that I can just purge the greese that in there?? But that goes against what most say regardingthe bearing buddie.
Ever herd of these??
Thanbks!

[Sean]

here is there stat sheet:

Sure Lube Protection
When it comes to protection, nothing beats the patented power of Sure Lube. There are no springs, rubber plugs, or o-rings. Sure Lube uses a revolutionary double lip spring-loaded seal that ensures outer/inner bearing protection from corrosion, wear, and water entry. It's a time saver, too. Sure Lube lets you grease or repack bearings with just a hand grease gun and without disassembly. When only the best will do, use Sure Lube from Reliable.


Sure Lube Data Sheet
To ensure proper lubrication for the Reliable Sure Lube System, each unit should be lubricated with a high quality wheel bearing grease. This should be applied with a hand operated grease gun every three months, 1000 miles, or as use requires. Using 1½ - 2 ounces will give proper lubrication, and 5 - 7 ounces will completely exchange the grease throughout the wheel hub.

The grease seals that are used in the hubs equipped with the Sure Lube System must be a "Transcom" Brand of grease seal. These seals can be purchased direct from the factory. These seals should not be cross-referenced over to another brand of seal if they are being used in the Sure Lube System.

[Sean]

Sh!T, I just pulled out the greese port from the hub/cap thing and it looks like I just runied it...

[Crusher]

Sean I just did a search on yahoo. repacking boat trailer wheel bearings. all kinds of articles came up showing you how to do it. Crusher

[Sean]

Not as bad as I thought, once I broke of the cap, it looked just like MJ said it would ::)
I removed the hubs and they are sitting in the basement until after my girls _2 daughters and a wife) go to bed.
Crusher, thanks for the tip.
Thanks to all!!!

[msbhammer]

PICS. ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D

[macojoe]

I am not sure what you have? *I no longer have bearing buddys as I have a Super lube system built in, there is a rubber cap that I remove, and there is a grease fitting, I pump with grease, old comes out new goes in wipe off old put rubber back.

Yours sounds close?? if it is you will also no need the Bearing buddys.
I am going to search and see what I come up with.

Thanks Mac! ;)

[macojoe]

Ok yours is the same as mine, except the old grease comes out the rear of the axle!

Sure-Lube greasing system uses no springs, O-rings or rubber plugs! Grease is inserted through zerk fitting on the cap and flows through bearings before exiting rear of hub. Double-lip, spring-loaded seal protects bearings from corrosion.


Good Deal!! I love mine!

[Sean]

It would of been a good deel if I didn't smash the caps off of them (don't ask) ::) and for the life of me I can not find just the caps for sale. :P
I think for peace of mind I am just going to order all new hubs and learn from one of my many mistakes!
Thanks again!!!

[Sean]

(This whole thing is giving me terates!! ::) :o ;D
I found the caps on EasternMarine.com $5.00 for the caps, $15.00 to ship them twoday ( I am impatient.
Thanks again

[macojoe]

Take it easy!! LOL

I have seen them at BW or EB before, But you all set now.

How does the bearings look?? Any rust or pitting?? Could have ordered new ones at the same time as the caps if they are?

Take it easy!! ;)

[Sean]

Oh man!! Just when I think it cant get worse!! ::) ::)
THe bearings are junk, rusted solid and full of grit, snad? I had to pound the sh!t out of the seal,cap on the back and the bearings also needed a nice tap with a hammer and screw driver to come out.
I assume I just need to order new bearings, but maybe I should play it safe and order all new hubs!!
Actually I may do both, buy new ones for now, and rebuild the old ones for spares??

[tsubaki]

Calm down, calm down, there ain't nothing hard about the bearing and race situation. Sometimes it's easier to buy hubs with the bearings and all. This way you got new lug bolts or studs. Be sure of your size before buying. Normally $24 each for 1" spindles.

[macojoe]

Well now you will have to get a new bearing kit, have to see what size you have?

You also have to bang out the old races, they are the metal things that the bearings sit on.
I use a old "made in China" 3/8 extension.

To put the new races line it up and use a 2x4 to hammer stright in, then I use the old race to seat it in all the way.

Then just reassamble as before. Its not hard to do!

New hubs are nice but a waste of $$, cause if you maintain the trailer from now on you will never have to replace the bearings for YEARS!!

[spareparts]

check prices on new hubs, they have gotten priced right, check with Northen, Expiditer, or Red Neck Trailer supply

[Sean]

I am actually going to do both ::)
I ordered new hubs from Northern, the same ones i currently have, and will use those. I am also going to rebuild the current hubs so I have a spare ( I am one of those anal retentive ones thsat likes/need two of everything)
Thanks for all of your help!

[tsubaki]

In doing that you can keep one hub with bearings and a spare tire for long road trips. It's easier to replace the whole thing when on the road if you had problems.

[tsubaki]

SEAN. You are aware that there are different spindle sizes and different tapers (or not) when it comes to axles? For instance the normal light weight axle might carry a straight 1" spindle or a dual axle trailer might carry a 1 1/16 - 1 3/8 taper spindle. Or if you want even more odd my trailer for the V-20 carries a 1 1/4 - 3/4 step taper spindle. There are a lot of combinations between different manufacturers, If you're not sure about the size the easiest way is to purchase a 4" caliper and measure the spindle at the inner and outer bearing.

[Sean]

:o I actually bought the exact same model # as the current ones I have. I think it has a 1 3/4 spindle ???
But as you can tell from this thread, it will probably be wrong!! They are supposed to be delivered 05/02 and I have a splash dow date of the 3rd!!
Thanks for the heads up, and wish me luck :'(

[Sean]

Know you have me worried, this is the exact one I got:

http://www2.northerntool.com/product-1/200333678.htm

My axel is tapered (forgive my ignorance but I assume that means it starts off around 1 3/4 and comes to a rounded point?), but this one as well as my current one both have the 1 3/4 diameter.
Please lye to me if you must and tell me I am all set ;D ;D
Positive thinking!!! 8)
Thanks again!

Yes 200, I M ON MY WAY!~!!

[tsubaki]

Just in case. CALIPER
COMPOSITE DIGITAL CALIPER *


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Accuracy: +/- 0.001'' (0.2 mm), Resolution: 0.01'', Throat depth: 1-9/16'', Temperature operating range: 32° F to 104° F, Includes one 1.5V button cell battery, Overall length: 9-1/2'', Weight: 0.10 lb.


ITEM 93293-3VGA
$19.99

$7.99

[tsubaki]

Well apparently retardation has set in on me. I was trying to post a picture from Harbor Freight on a cheap caliper to use, anyway see what comes in from Northern Tool.

[macojoe]

you will be fine!! The one you bought comes with the spindel and all, you remove what you have there now and remout this unit!!
It doesn't matter what size you have cause this is Complete Unit!!

[Sean]

;DNow thats what I wanted to here ;D

Thanks!

[tsubaki]

Everything will be lovely ;D ;D ;D *;D
Oh, by the way, use marine waterproof grease. ;D

[reelapeelin]

That hub kit worries me for two reasons..."complete w/ spindle"...how does one generally change out a spindle?...


the other thing is that kit says rated at 1750 lbs...two of those only allow you 3500 lbs...is your trailer single axle or tandem??...if single, yer not gettin' enough hardware for the load yer totin' ;) ...

[Sean]

Thanks Reel, well at least I slept good last night *:-/

I am not to worried about the spindle, because I assume I do not need to change it I dont have to, but If I do need to, well this thread is going to get much bigger ::) ::)
The load 3500lbs, it is only a 1 axel trailer, and I assume I have been doing it all along with the same set up and I do not trailer it over 5 miles from my house so I should be all set ???

[macojoe]

Reel hits a good point!! But maybe the trailer was never rated for the boat, and you are getting the same thing??

Yes with this kit you change the spindle! You will have to look to see how yours come out?

I am sure there will be some hammering involved and a few choice words But you can do it Nicky!

[Sean]

Thanks for the confidence :-/ ;D ;D
I am goingto redo the current ones today, tonight and if I can get them rolling, I may see if I can send the new ones back and upgrade them to a higher rated series.
We will see. ::)
Thanks again...
I'll try to get some pictures up to ;D

[reelapeelin]

You're lucky w/ only 5 miles to ramp ... and I agree you'll be OK ...good luck w/ the swap-out...lots of good advice here, except nobody said to get a big bottle of GoJo ;D ...

[Sean]

Alright hAVE to ask, whats GoJo?
Thanks ;D

[reelapeelin]

Go Jo...heavy-duty hand cleaner...great for cleanin' up yer hands after a round w/ old and new axle grease ;) ...

[macojoe]

Whats GOJO

:-/ You have a long way to go grasshopper! *;)

[reelapeelin]

Whats GOJO

:-/ You have a long way to go grasshopper! ;)




Don't we all, MJ...don't we all ;) ;D ;D ;D ...

[macojoe]

If you have a big vise or two saw horses to put the Hubs on, it will be good when banging out the races, they will just go out the bottom when banging them.

Make sure when putting the new ones in the cone goes up so the races have something to sit in! I hate when they are backwards!!

[reelapeelin]

I hate when they are backwards!!




Yeah, that'd be a BUMMA!! ;) ...

[tsubaki]

ASC # 66666
*5-Hole Hub Assembly


*
5-Hole Hub Assembly
* With bearings, seal & dust cap
* 5 bolts
* 1750# capacity


Add this item to your order
means ‘In Stock’

Item No. Description Qty Your Price In Stock
66666 2-1000-04-01 HUB ASSY. W/STUDS & NUTS,E-COATED BLK *23.49
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w159/tsubaki3/66666.jpg
These are from Agri Supply. www.agrisupply.com
I think the 1750 capacity is normal. A 15" tire is rated for 1865#. A 14" 1750#.

[Sean]

Yeah, I looked around and that seemed to be the norm on the limit.
Went to west marine yesterday to pick up some bearing kits and new lugs, $60!! :o

[macojoe]

Take your time breath a little!! You have new coming, just wait it out you will be fine!!

I wish I had all the money people throw away with out first calming down and then thinking it thru before they og off half cocked!!

Your fine!! ;)

[Sean]

I wish I had all the money I threw away back :-/ ;D

I seem to be able to justify anything, but I figure if I have a full back up, I will not need it, and if I don't I will ;D

5 day count down for the (hopefully) 2007 launch!