Transom Repair

[jared]

I have a 82 cuddy and found this site last week. It is full of good info. My transom was starting to get soft around the port splashwell drain and while researching here I found a link to seacast transom repair, i liked the theory, and last suday I took a chainsaw to the transom of the boat :o. It went pretty easy and this sunday I am going back together with it. I am actually going to use west systems epoxy to fill the void because I have used the product for years on big and small projects and am familiar with it. I called seacast to get pro's and cons but they wern,t very helpful/knowledgeable. The guy I talked to at west systems told me the biggest problem would be heat as the epoxy cured, and told me a couple of ways to keep the temp down. I will get some pics up and and let you know how it goes.

[jared]

I have a 82 cuddy and found this site last week. It is full of good info. My transom was starting to get soft around the port splashwell drain and while researching here I found a link to seacast transom repair, i liked the theory, and last suday I took a chainsaw to the transom of the boat :o. It went pretty easy and this sunday I am going back together with it. I am actually going to use west systems epoxy to fill the void because I have used the product for years on big and small projects and am familiar with it. I called seacast to get pro's and cons but they wern,t very helpful/knowledgeable. The guy I talked to at west systems told me the biggest problem would be heat as the epoxy cured, and told me a couple of ways to keep the temp down. I will get some pics up and and let you know how it goes.

[Seacrets]

Welcome

[Seacrets]

Welcome

[msbhammer]

Welcome to the site. Looking forward to seeing many Pics. ;)

[msbhammer]

Welcome to the site. Looking forward to seeing many Pics. ;)

[tsubaki]

Welcome. Is there any problems using the epoxy alone and without other matting? Most materials (especially fiberglass resin) don't perform well when thickly applied without something to provide expansion and contraction.

[tsubaki]

Welcome. Is there any problems using the epoxy alone and without other matting? Most materials (especially fiberglass resin) don't perform well when thickly applied without something to provide expansion and contraction.

[Stillrunning]

Welcome to the board. That stuff is going to be boiling by the time it starts to heat up. I've had like an inch left over in a cup and it was boiling. What did they say to do to keep the temp down and how are you going to contain the west to that one area? Forget the pics we want video of this.

[Stillrunning]

Welcome to the board. That stuff is going to be boiling by the time it starts to heat up. I've had like an inch left over in a cup and it was boiling. What did they say to do to keep the temp down and how are you going to contain the west to that one area? Forget the pics we want video of this.

[jared]

The rep from west sytems didn't seem to think I would have a problem other that the heat when it cured. He said I could add powder or portland cement to slow down the heat, I also am going with the 209 extra slow hardener, after it is cured it should be there in 100 years.

[jared]

The rep from west sytems didn't seem to think I would have a problem other that the heat when it cured. He said I could add powder or portland cement to slow down the heat, I also am going with the 209 extra slow hardener, after it is cured it should be there in 100 years.

[jared]

the plan is to do the transom in about 5 layers, pour in four inches, let it kick, pour in four more and so on. The minerals it the cement or the powder somehow diperce the heat. As far as holding it in place, I cut the top of the transom out, the bottom and the sides are still in place.

[jared]

the plan is to do the transom in about 5 layers, pour in four inches, let it kick, pour in four more and so on. The minerals it the cement or the powder somehow diperce the heat. As far as holding it in place, I cut the top of the transom out, the bottom and the sides are still in place.

[tsubaki]

Do me a favor (and maybe you for a piece of mind) if you can spare a 1 1/4x6x6 piece of epoxy, pour it into a box or piece of cardboard and see what it does later when it cures. There are some polymers that do fine like this. I'm just curious what the end product will be.

[tsubaki]

Do me a favor (and maybe you for a piece of mind) if you can spare a 1 1/4x6x6 piece of epoxy, pour it into a box or piece of cardboard and see what it does later when it cures. There are some polymers that do fine like this. I'm just curious what the end product will be.

[jared]

Will do, this weekend.

[jared]

Will do, this weekend.

[tsubaki]

What I'm poking at is the possibility of the epoxy being too rigid and might crack or break when stress is applied. Fiberglass matting and resin work wonderfully together but ain't worth a damn seperate.

[tsubaki]

What I'm poking at is the possibility of the epoxy being too rigid and might crack or break when stress is applied. Fiberglass matting and resin work wonderfully together but ain't worth a damn seperate.

[Stillrunning]

the plan is to do the transom in about 5 layers, pour in four inches, let it kick, pour in four more and so on. *The minerals it the cement or the powder somehow diperce the heat. *As far as holding it in place, I cut the top of the transom out, the bottom and the sides are still in place.
I would take a flash light at night and have someone shine it into the transom as you check in the bildge area for spots of light. I'm thinking that there may be some areas that might not hold the west (thats one reason its rotted) and it would be a mess. I'm not sure but I thingk you have to poor the layers before the other dries or you would need to sand the top of each layer for proper adhesion. If I'm correct west system requires sanding between coats for adhesion.

[Stillrunning]

the plan is to do the transom in about 5 layers, pour in four inches, let it kick, pour in four more and so on. *The minerals it the cement or the powder somehow diperce the heat. *As far as holding it in place, I cut the top of the transom out, the bottom and the sides are still in place.
I would take a flash light at night and have someone shine it into the transom as you check in the bildge area for spots of light. I'm thinking that there may be some areas that might not hold the west (thats one reason its rotted) and it would be a mess. I'm not sure but I thingk you have to poor the layers before the other dries or you would need to sand the top of each layer for proper adhesion. If I'm correct west system requires sanding between coats for adhesion.

[jared]

I have already sealed the transom so it wont leak out. Also I am putting a fiber powder in it for strength. The product I put in the boat will be thick, as thick as I can get it and still pour it. The original rot started at the port splashwell drain, and spread from there, the right 2/3 or half, and the bottom wood was still solid and dry.

[jared]

I have already sealed the transom so it wont leak out. Also I am putting a fiber powder in it for strength. The product I put in the boat will be thick, as thick as I can get it and still pour it. The original rot started at the port splashwell drain, and spread from there, the right 2/3 or half, and the bottom wood was still solid and dry.

[Stillrunning]

I have already sealed the transom so it wont leak out. *Also I am putting a fiber powder in it for strength. *The product I put in the boat will be thick, as thick as I can get it and still pour it. *The original rot started at the port splashwell drain, and spread from there, the right 2/3 or half, and the bottom wood was still solid and dry. *
It sounds like you have covered everything and I'm sure all on the sight will be interested in how it turns out. So is this a partial repair or did you remove the entire transom?

[Stillrunning]

I have already sealed the transom so it wont leak out. *Also I am putting a fiber powder in it for strength. *The product I put in the boat will be thick, as thick as I can get it and still pour it. *The original rot started at the port splashwell drain, and spread from there, the right 2/3 or half, and the bottom wood was still solid and dry. *
It sounds like you have covered everything and I'm sure all on the sight will be interested in how it turns out. So is this a partial repair or did you remove the entire transom?

[jared]

Entire, it started out as a partial, but once ig got started I thought what the heck. I am ready to get done with work so I can get started. ::)

[jared]

Entire, it started out as a partial, but once ig got started I thought what the heck. I am ready to get done with work so I can get started. ::)

[msbhammer]

You gotta post pics. of this project. Sounds interesting. ;D

[msbhammer]

You gotta post pics. of this project. Sounds interesting. ;D

[tsubaki]

POST PICTURES

[tsubaki]

POST PICTURES

[jared]

I will, the boat is about 30 miles from my home I will take some sunday when I am out there.

[jared]

I will, the boat is about 30 miles from my home I will take some sunday when I am out there.

[jared]

It worked good. I used four gallons of west systems, I would pour in the epoxy mix (epoxy, powder, and portland cement to slow down the cure rate) about a half gallon at a time, then cram in lots of fiberglass matting then repeat, it took about three hours, after about five hours it was cured. I waited untill it started to kick and then redrilled all of the holes in my transom before it got real hard. There were no voids, and the transom is solid as a rock. I also drilled some holes in the transom from the outside before I poured it so I could see the epoxy ooze out, once I saw it I plugged the holes with a dowl rod. Then I ground it all clean before it got real hard to save time. Now I just need to sand it, paint it and install the motor. I will post some pics later when I have time, I didn't get as many as I wanted because once I got started it was a race against the clock, and my hands were so nasty I didn't want to touch the transom.
All in all it went well, I had about $450 in materials and 10 hours in labor. I am pleased with the results. ;)

[jared]

It worked good. I used four gallons of west systems, I would pour in the epoxy mix (epoxy, powder, and portland cement to slow down the cure rate) about a half gallon at a time, then cram in lots of fiberglass matting then repeat, it took about three hours, after about five hours it was cured. I waited untill it started to kick and then redrilled all of the holes in my transom before it got real hard. There were no voids, and the transom is solid as a rock. I also drilled some holes in the transom from the outside before I poured it so I could see the epoxy ooze out, once I saw it I plugged the holes with a dowl rod. Then I ground it all clean before it got real hard to save time. Now I just need to sand it, paint it and install the motor. I will post some pics later when I have time, I didn't get as many as I wanted because once I got started it was a race against the clock, and my hands were so nasty I didn't want to touch the transom.
All in all it went well, I had about $450 in materials and 10 hours in labor. I am pleased with the results. ;)

[Stillrunning]

Thats good to hear and will look forward to the pic's. Did you have any problems pop up? I keep plenty of rubber gloves on hand for these type of projects.

[Stillrunning]

Thats good to hear and will look forward to the pic's. Did you have any problems pop up? I keep plenty of rubber gloves on hand for these type of projects.

[tsubaki]

Good :) :) and glad to hear about packing matting in there also.



POST PICTURES
POST PICTURES
;D ;D ;D ;D ;D

[tsubaki]

Good :) :) and glad to hear about packing matting in there also.



POST PICTURES
POST PICTURES
;D ;D ;D ;D ;D

[jared]

No problems, it went just as planned. I'm sure not used to that ???

[jared]

No problems, it went just as planned. I'm sure not used to that ???

[Stillrunning]

Where are those pics ?

[Stillrunning]

Where are those pics ?

[tsubaki]

POST PICTURES
POST PICTURES

[tsubaki]

POST PICTURES
POST PICTURES

[msbhammer]

We gotta have Pics. ;D

[msbhammer]

We gotta have Pics. ;D

[Geekie1]

Stillrunning is right about pouring epoxy resin while the prior layer is somewhat green . (green=still somewhat pliable giving a chemical bond) If you let the prior epoxy layer totally cure, you must sand it to give it tooth that the next layer can bond to. Some epoxys when they are totally cured give off a surface film called amine blush which will also cause the layers not to bond. Amine blush feels slimey to the touch. This film can be washed off with detergent and water. If you are using West System look out for this problem. It's not a big problem to solve but alot of epoxy resins that cost half the price don't blush. Not a big knock on West and they are the tried and tested brand with undoubtedly the best tech support. Just using cured epoxy resin without some form of fiberglass filler to give it strength will surely fail in time, not to mention the cost of epoxy resin without the filler taking up space and making the compound stronger and lighter. Just my $.02!

Geek

[Geekie1]

Stillrunning is right about pouring epoxy resin while the prior layer is somewhat green . (green=still somewhat pliable giving a chemical bond) If you let the prior epoxy layer totally cure, you must sand it to give it tooth that the next layer can bond to. Some epoxys when they are totally cured give off a surface film called amine blush which will also cause the layers not to bond. Amine blush feels slimey to the touch. This film can be washed off with detergent and water. If you are using West System look out for this problem. It's not a big problem to solve but alot of epoxy resins that cost half the price don't blush. Not a big knock on West and they are the tried and tested brand with undoubtedly the best tech support. Just using cured epoxy resin without some form of fiberglass filler to give it strength will surely fail in time, not to mention the cost of epoxy resin without the filler taking up space and making the compound stronger and lighter. Just my $.02!

Geek

[phatdaddy]

i used west system and liked the result, but recently i used the mas system at boaters world and am just as pleased with it. little cheaper & no blush..

[phatdaddy]

i used west system and liked the result, but recently i used the mas system at boaters world and am just as pleased with it. little cheaper & no blush..