Replacing the drain plug

[rb437]

Last season I noticed that the drain plug was rotating slightly in transom as I tightened or loosened the drain plug. Today I pulled the old plug out and was pleased to find that everything appears to be solid and dry. I'm going to install a new drain plug and was looking for a recommendation on what to use to seal the plug to the hull. (Here's the required pictures for Hammer)

http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s179/rb437/Picture001.jpg

http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s179/rb437/Picture002.jpg

[rb437]

Last season I noticed that the drain plug was rotating slightly in transom as I tightened or loosened the drain plug. Today I pulled the old plug out and was pleased to find that everything appears to be solid and dry. I'm going to install a new drain plug and was looking for a recommendation on what to use to seal the plug to the hull. (Here's the required pictures for Hammer)

http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s179/rb437/Picture001.jpg

http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s179/rb437/Picture002.jpg

[Warner_Foster]

Rick,
Personally, I would use 5200 or Boat Life. Would put these sealers on the screw threads as well as around the plug.

[Warner_Foster]

Rick,
Personally, I would use 5200 or Boat Life. Would put these sealers on the screw threads as well as around the plug.

[THEFERMANATOR]

Definately use an adhesive type of sealer. 4200 or equivelant wouldn't provide the hold you need. You don't want that sucker coming off.

[THEFERMANATOR]

Definately use an adhesive type of sealer. 4200 or equivelant wouldn't provide the hold you need. You don't want that sucker coming off.

[spareparts]

rotate the clock position so your screwing in fresh wood/glass, use 5200 and poke some in the old screw holes before you start

[spareparts]

rotate the clock position so your screwing in fresh wood/glass, use 5200 and poke some in the old screw holes before you start

[macojoe]

What spare said!!!!

[macojoe]

What spare said!!!!

[randlemanboater]

I used 5200 when I put my motor on to seal the bolts, is that stuff always that runny or did I get a thin batch? It dripped for hours.

[randlemanboater]

I used 5200 when I put my motor on to seal the bolts, is that stuff always that runny or did I get a thin batch? It dripped for hours.

[msbhammer]

Pictures as requested. LOL, I love you guys. I get a bit tired with the wifey in her panties, so i need to see plenty of boats pics. LOL. ;D :-*
Randleman, never had a problem with 5200. Works great.

[msbhammer]

Pictures as requested. LOL, I love you guys. I get a bit tired with the wifey in her panties, so i need to see plenty of boats pics. LOL. ;D :-*
Randleman, never had a problem with 5200. Works great.

[spareparts]

it should be like molassis on a cold morning( couldn,t think of any other soutern food to compare it to), it may drip, but not run off

[spareparts]

it should be like molassis on a cold morning( couldn,t think of any other soutern food to compare it to), it may drip, but not run off

[Stillrunning]

I cannot tell from your pic but the new plug and housing should be brass.

[Stillrunning]

I cannot tell from your pic but the new plug and housing should be brass.

[Stinky_Hooker]

Use 5200 for the plug, resealed mine this weekend, simple job.



it should be like molassis on a cold morning( couldn,t think of any other soutern food to compare it to), it may drip, but not run off


EXACTLY! Even in 90*+ weather, never seen it run at all, muchless drip.

[Stinky_Hooker]

Use 5200 for the plug, resealed mine this weekend, simple job.



it should be like molassis on a cold morning( couldn,t think of any other soutern food to compare it to), it may drip, but not run off


EXACTLY! Even in 90*+ weather, never seen it run at all, muchless drip.

[THEFERMANATOR]

I used 5200 when I put my motor on to seal the bolts, is that stuff always that runny or did I get a thin batch? *It dripped for hours.
I've had that happen before many times. The stuff you get from WAL-MART is the same brand and looks the same, but I've had the most problems with it running. I personally like to use 5200 FAST CURE myself, but once you open it you better use it or it will harden in the tube.

[THEFERMANATOR]

I used 5200 when I put my motor on to seal the bolts, is that stuff always that runny or did I get a thin batch? *It dripped for hours.
I've had that happen before many times. The stuff you get from WAL-MART is the same brand and looks the same, but I've had the most problems with it running. I personally like to use 5200 FAST CURE myself, but once you open it you better use it or it will harden in the tube.

[spareparts]

I ususally try to mix it in the tube before I open it up, just knead the tube back and forth, that should mix it up engough so if any of the chemicals have separated, they will have mixed preoperlly

[spareparts]

I ususally try to mix it in the tube before I open it up, just knead the tube back and forth, that should mix it up engough so if any of the chemicals have separated, they will have mixed preoperlly

[Stinky_Hooker]

One way Ive found to help with that Ferm is to screw a big wirenut onto the tip. Ive got a tube of fastcure Ive been using off and on for about two weeks like that. New wirenut each time you undo it and youre good to go. :)

[Stinky_Hooker]

One way Ive found to help with that Ferm is to screw a big wirenut onto the tip. Ive got a tube of fastcure Ive been using off and on for about two weeks like that. New wirenut each time you undo it and youre good to go. :)

[parishht]

I've been using these for my caulk at home,
they seem to work pretty good and make a tight seal.

http://www.littleredcap.com/

http://www.littleredcap.com/Caps-w-cans.jpg

[parishht]

I've been using these for my caulk at home,
they seem to work pretty good and make a tight seal.

http://www.littleredcap.com/

http://www.littleredcap.com/Caps-w-cans.jpg

[Blue_Runner]

One way Ive found to help with that Ferm is to screw a big wirenut onto the tip. Ive got a tube of fastcure Ive been using off and on for about two weeks like that. New wirenut each time you undo it and youre good to go.
I just put a screw in the opening and don't have any problems when I need to use it again. Just like the day I bought it. ;)

Question - everyone is giving the nod to 5200 for this drain plug, but wouldn't epoxy be stronger and last longer in terms of water intrusion? Not doubting 5200 - it should last a long time, but wouldn't epoxy last longer?

[Blue_Runner]

One way Ive found to help with that Ferm is to screw a big wirenut onto the tip. Ive got a tube of fastcure Ive been using off and on for about two weeks like that. New wirenut each time you undo it and youre good to go.
I just put a screw in the opening and don't have any problems when I need to use it again. Just like the day I bought it. ;)

Question - everyone is giving the nod to 5200 for this drain plug, but wouldn't epoxy be stronger and last longer in terms of water intrusion? Not doubting 5200 - it should last a long time, but wouldn't epoxy last longer?

[Stinky_Hooker]

You are right BR, but I just always consider 5200 for semi-permanent apps. I say that because I use it on things that MIGHT have to come out. With epoxy you would probably have to do damage to get it loose. The 5200 is strong don't get me wrong, but if you NEED to take it out for some reason (I cant imagine why, but u never know) you can. :)


Oh and Ive used screws before too...just seems to bond to it and I struggle to free it up. :-/

[Stinky_Hooker]

You are right BR, but I just always consider 5200 for semi-permanent apps. I say that because I use it on things that MIGHT have to come out. With epoxy you would probably have to do damage to get it loose. The 5200 is strong don't get me wrong, but if you NEED to take it out for some reason (I cant imagine why, but u never know) you can. :)


Oh and Ive used screws before too...just seems to bond to it and I struggle to free it up. :-/

[Blue_Runner]

Roger that Stink ;)

[Blue_Runner]

Roger that Stink ;)

[macojoe]

I used 5200 on my bracket, I talked to a guy and he said when he took off the bracket ity took some glass with it!! because of epoxy.
I use 5200 on everything! I use fast cure on things like screws and stuff, but use slow cure on hings like the bracket as I think it is better then the fast cure.

[macojoe]

I used 5200 on my bracket, I talked to a guy and he said when he took off the bracket ity took some glass with it!! because of epoxy.
I use 5200 on everything! I use fast cure on things like screws and stuff, but use slow cure on hings like the bracket as I think it is better then the fast cure.

[Blue_Runner]

I know its good stuff for sure. I use it on lots of things - boat or non boat.

[Blue_Runner]

I know its good stuff for sure. I use it on lots of things - boat or non boat.

[Stinky_Hooker]

Im with ya MJ....and on things like tank hatches the slow stuff is better. If it is a thick bead the fast cure will sorta "blister" because it dries too fast, ya know? :-/

[Stinky_Hooker]

Im with ya MJ....and on things like tank hatches the slow stuff is better. If it is a thick bead the fast cure will sorta "blister" because it dries too fast, ya know? :-/

[rb437]

A little background... I'm replacing the entire drain plug because the threads in the female half of the old one are worn and the new plug I tried does not turn easily. using this combination of old and new threads is how the drain plug worked loose from the transom in the first place. You guys have hit on my exactly why I opened up this thread to begin with. I thought about using epoxy but I wasn't sure something that permanent was what I wanted. I guess if I was rebuilding the transom or something like that then having to remove an epoxied in drain plug would be one small step in a much larger project. In this case I only need to fix the drain plug. The transom is fine. If this drain plug had been epoxied in then this would be a much larger job. I think I'll go with the slow cure 5200 and have a well sealed, secure, and nearly permanent plug.

And that guy on ebay called me an "expert", he has no idea how much back up I got.

Thanks
Rick

PS: I'll be sure to post an after picture

[rb437]

A little background... I'm replacing the entire drain plug because the threads in the female half of the old one are worn and the new plug I tried does not turn easily. using this combination of old and new threads is how the drain plug worked loose from the transom in the first place. You guys have hit on my exactly why I opened up this thread to begin with. I thought about using epoxy but I wasn't sure something that permanent was what I wanted. I guess if I was rebuilding the transom or something like that then having to remove an epoxied in drain plug would be one small step in a much larger project. In this case I only need to fix the drain plug. The transom is fine. If this drain plug had been epoxied in then this would be a much larger job. I think I'll go with the slow cure 5200 and have a well sealed, secure, and nearly permanent plug.

And that guy on ebay called me an "expert", he has no idea how much back up I got.

Thanks
Rick

PS: I'll be sure to post an after picture

[randlemanboater]

I guess my tube of 5200 wasn't mixed up right cause it dripped for hours. *It says that is cures in the tube even with the cap on but the tube I have has been opened for almost 2 weeks and it is still runny.

Leave it to me to get a bad tube of 5200.

[randlemanboater]

I guess my tube of 5200 wasn't mixed up right cause it dripped for hours. *It says that is cures in the tube even with the cap on but the tube I have has been opened for almost 2 weeks and it is still runny.

Leave it to me to get a bad tube of 5200.

[Stinky_Hooker]

Yeah it was definitely bad then. Probably old stock so the hardner in it went bad...that sucks!

[Stinky_Hooker]

Yeah it was definitely bad then. Probably old stock so the hardner in it went bad...that sucks!

[macojoe]

For the price there should never be a bad tube!! Take it back for another!!

[macojoe]

For the price there should never be a bad tube!! Take it back for another!!

[tsubaki]

I guess my tube of 5200 wasn't mixed up right cause it dripped for hours. *It says that is cures in the tube even with the cap on but the tube I have has been opened for almost 2 weeks and it is still runny.

Leave it to me to get a bad tube of 5200.
I've had the same problem, however it was weather related. Low temps and high humidity kept it dripping for a week, easiest remedy is to use the quick cure type. 24hrs its like tire rubber.

[tsubaki]

I guess my tube of 5200 wasn't mixed up right cause it dripped for hours. *It says that is cures in the tube even with the cap on but the tube I have has been opened for almost 2 weeks and it is still runny.

Leave it to me to get a bad tube of 5200.
I've had the same problem, however it was weather related. Low temps and high humidity kept it dripping for a week, easiest remedy is to use the quick cure type. 24hrs its like tire rubber.

[phatdaddy]

I've keep 5200, silicone, boat life, etc. in the freezer. most of that stuff won't kick in that low temp. do most of ya'll have the garbor style plug. mine is the old brass tube with the rubber plug. i would like to change mine out. anybody ever done it?

[phatdaddy]

I've keep 5200, silicone, boat life, etc. in the freezer. most of that stuff won't kick in that low temp. do most of ya'll have the garbor style plug. mine is the old brass tube with the rubber plug. i would like to change mine out. anybody ever done it?

[macojoe]

Just take the old off, fill screw holes, Coat the inside of the hole with 5200, again put pleanty on the ne tube and hammer it in, Let dry it dry for a day or two, to insure it is dry and tight!!

The tube is long when you get it, I had a buddy saw it in half the same thickness of the transom, then when he pushed it in, and held it tight, someone hammer the inside over against transom to insure it stays.

[macojoe]

Just take the old off, fill screw holes, Coat the inside of the hole with 5200, again put pleanty on the ne tube and hammer it in, Let dry it dry for a day or two, to insure it is dry and tight!!

The tube is long when you get it, I had a buddy saw it in half the same thickness of the transom, then when he pushed it in, and held it tight, someone hammer the inside over against transom to insure it stays.

[cfelton]

I used 5200 on every screw, bolt and everything that fastened to my hull . It works very well for me. I even put it on the rubber O ring when mounting the gimble back on the transom. Probley catch hell if I ever have ta take it off. Dont have ta worry about it leaking though!

[cfelton]

I used 5200 on every screw, bolt and everything that fastened to my hull . It works very well for me. I even put it on the rubber O ring when mounting the gimble back on the transom. Probley catch hell if I ever have ta take it off. Dont have ta worry about it leaking though!

[rb437]

As promised, the after picturehttp://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s179/rb437/DSC00028.jpg

[rb437]

As promised, the after picturehttp://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s179/rb437/DSC00028.jpg

[RobsTV]

Cleaning up transom here, and I like the look of the new drain.

With my '73 Center Console, the drain and both scuppers had the brass inserts, and all three are bad. Looks like same brass insert is used in all three locations. Each scupper had a rubber flap attached to outside transom with a single screw above. Did not close well.

What 3 parts are recommended as replacements?
Brass tubes again, with rubber plug for drain? Or Drain like photo above, and modern scupper? Part #'s and sources would be great help!

Thanks,
Rob

[RobsTV]

Cleaning up transom here, and I like the look of the new drain.

With my '73 Center Console, the drain and both scuppers had the brass inserts, and all three are bad. Looks like same brass insert is used in all three locations. Each scupper had a rubber flap attached to outside transom with a single screw above. Did not close well.

What 3 parts are recommended as replacements?
Brass tubes again, with rubber plug for drain? Or Drain like photo above, and modern scupper? Part #'s and sources would be great help!

Thanks,
Rob

[macojoe]

You can replace the plug with a screw in type as the pic as long as there is enough space to screw to?? The tubes use a larger hole so you may be forced to use new tubes.

Lots of 5200 on the new install, and what a budy just told me was he ran a strong string thur the tube with a piece of wood tied to it.

Wood on the outside string tied to something tight in the boat, this will hold the tube in tight till 5200 drys!

As for scupers I let some one who no's, I have never owned a pair.

[macojoe]

You can replace the plug with a screw in type as the pic as long as there is enough space to screw to?? The tubes use a larger hole so you may be forced to use new tubes.

Lots of 5200 on the new install, and what a budy just told me was he ran a strong string thur the tube with a piece of wood tied to it.

Wood on the outside string tied to something tight in the boat, this will hold the tube in tight till 5200 drys!

As for scupers I let some one who no's, I have never owned a pair.

[RobsTV]

Thanks for the reply.
Rubber plug in drain was no big deal, scuppers were main thing. Screw type drain just looked a lot better.

Where to buy the tube(s)? West Marine? Stick with brass?

The old tubes were flared over transom on both ends.
Of course new tube will neeed to be straight on one end to insert in hole.
With 5200 applied right, is it nessasary to try to flare other end of tube (tight inside bilge)?

Thanks.

[RobsTV]

Thanks for the reply.
Rubber plug in drain was no big deal, scuppers were main thing. Screw type drain just looked a lot better.

Where to buy the tube(s)? West Marine? Stick with brass?

The old tubes were flared over transom on both ends.
Of course new tube will neeed to be straight on one end to insert in hole.
With 5200 applied right, is it nessasary to try to flare other end of tube (tight inside bilge)?

Thanks.

[macojoe]

West or any were should hve them, Flared on one end, no need for flare needed but lots of 5200!!

[macojoe]

West or any were should hve them, Flared on one end, no need for flare needed but lots of 5200!!

[RobsTV]

You can see old scupper in this gallery photo, and also see why I am cleaning up transom (while swapping the '75 135hp for '83 175hp).

http://www.wellcraftv20.com/gallery/view_photo.php?set_albumName=album104&id=Transduce rLocation2

[RobsTV]

You can see old scupper in this gallery photo, and also see why I am cleaning up transom (while swapping the '75 135hp for '83 175hp).

http://www.wellcraftv20.com/gallery/view_photo.php?set_albumName=album104&id=Transduce rLocation2

[macojoe]

Nice looker!!

[macojoe]

Nice looker!!

[reelapeelin]

135 to 175 8) ...that'll give the ol' girl a nice KICK in the pants!!... ;) ...good upgrade...

How does the Fish Finder work on plane w/the transducer mounted there?...

[reelapeelin]

135 to 175 8) ...that'll give the ol' girl a nice KICK in the pants!!... ;) ...good upgrade...

How does the Fish Finder work on plane w/the transducer mounted there?...

[RobsTV]

Transducer does not work well above 20mph.
Have moved it up and down, as well as several other places.
Had an old thread here when I mounted it about a year ago.

http://www.wellcraftv20.com/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.cgi?board=General;action=display;num=11478716 11

But, it might just be the hummingbird matrix 17 sucks.

EDIT: Just read above link again, and looked at photo.
We moved it.
It now is located on farthest outside step, (below the vents coming out the back), which is why it probably doesn't work above 20mph.

[RobsTV]

Transducer does not work well above 20mph.
Have moved it up and down, as well as several other places.
Had an old thread here when I mounted it about a year ago.

http://www.wellcraftv20.com/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.cgi?board=General;action=display;num=11478716 11

But, it might just be the hummingbird matrix 17 sucks.

EDIT: Just read above link again, and looked at photo.
We moved it.
It now is located on farthest outside step, (below the vents coming out the back), which is why it probably doesn't work above 20mph.

[RobsTV]

Any thoughts on scuppers for the '72 Center Console?
Stick with brass tubes (same as drain?) and rubber flap (hope not).

CPES is going in tomorrow (Sunday), then next weekend the Layup & Laminating Resin, with cap rebuild perhaps 4 days later. Hope to be in the water for fireworks weekend. (Transom was always rock solid, and surprised to see like new under old cap, but a few drilled holes along bottom were soft. Boat was pickled in warehouse for 15 years).

[RobsTV]

Any thoughts on scuppers for the '72 Center Console?
Stick with brass tubes (same as drain?) and rubber flap (hope not).

CPES is going in tomorrow (Sunday), then next weekend the Layup & Laminating Resin, with cap rebuild perhaps 4 days later. Hope to be in the water for fireworks weekend. (Transom was always rock solid, and surprised to see like new under old cap, but a few drilled holes along bottom were soft. Boat was pickled in warehouse for 15 years).