Floor repair

[garagenc]

I need to replace a 1 ft sq section of my floor on stbd side about 1 ft fwd of the transom (I have a I/O).

Is there anyway to cut that section out and replace and not be noticaable? I've tried using GETROT but it didn't help.

I want to fix but was wondering on best method.

[garagenc]

I need to replace a 1 ft sq section of my floor on stbd side about 1 ft fwd of the transom (I have a I/O).

Is there anyway to cut that section out and replace and not be noticaable? I've tried using GETROT but it didn't help.

I want to fix but was wondering on best method.

[macojoe]

Not sure it will be 100% invisable, but should be able to do it!

There are a lot better guys here then me as far as glass goes!!

But if it was I, I think i would cut the deck a little bigger then I needed to, save the skin of floor, cut new ply and repair floor, now glass the skin of the floor back on, and fill the seam with marine tex and paint to match.

Good Luck!

[macojoe]

Not sure it will be 100% invisable, but should be able to do it!

There are a lot better guys here then me as far as glass goes!!

But if it was I, I think i would cut the deck a little bigger then I needed to, save the skin of floor, cut new ply and repair floor, now glass the skin of the floor back on, and fill the seam with marine tex and paint to match.

Good Luck!

[spareparts]

one of the best ideas I've seen for hiding the seam from a repair is to leave a nice seam across the area like it was made that way, kinda hard to describe but if you've ever noticed on some nonskid decks, it looks like thay have partitioned off several areas with a smoth liine separating the nonskid ( ike around where the in floor tank is ). Well make your cuts so you can duplicate the seam on the other side so it looks like its supposed to be there. Just think ahead before you cut,lay out straight lines and when you done, just gel the area where the cut was. I'll take a picture if I get near a boat that has been done this way

[spareparts]

one of the best ideas I've seen for hiding the seam from a repair is to leave a nice seam across the area like it was made that way, kinda hard to describe but if you've ever noticed on some nonskid decks, it looks like thay have partitioned off several areas with a smoth liine separating the nonskid ( ike around where the in floor tank is ). Well make your cuts so you can duplicate the seam on the other side so it looks like its supposed to be there. Just think ahead before you cut,lay out straight lines and when you done, just gel the area where the cut was. I'll take a picture if I get near a boat that has been done this way

[reelapeelin]

Wow, Spare...that's just what I's thinkin' ;) ...

[reelapeelin]

Wow, Spare...that's just what I's thinkin' ;) ...

[Stillrunning]

I think you will find that 1 foot of soft spot will be another 6 or so inches bigger to find dry wood. I just fixed and area which I thought was about 1 1/2 x 1 1/2 and ended up cutting out a 2x3 area. I took a drill and worked my way out until I found clean dry wood then started cutting. That way you will have that top skin to lay back in instead of cuting it out a littl at a time. I then just repainted the entire floor of the boat. I used Bher garage floor paint with a little non-skid added to the paint. I used the same paint 7 years ago and it held up great at about $23.00 a gallon.

[Stillrunning]

I think you will find that 1 foot of soft spot will be another 6 or so inches bigger to find dry wood. I just fixed and area which I thought was about 1 1/2 x 1 1/2 and ended up cutting out a 2x3 area. I took a drill and worked my way out until I found clean dry wood then started cutting. That way you will have that top skin to lay back in instead of cuting it out a littl at a time. I then just repainted the entire floor of the boat. I used Bher garage floor paint with a little non-skid added to the paint. I used the same paint 7 years ago and it held up great at about $23.00 a gallon.

[chesapeake_dreamer]

I agree, you'll find more wet wood then you think. Cut a whole larger then your work area, be sure to cut on an angle 45* works well not too deep, don't want to cut the stringers. Sand/grind area of floor outside whole to take new glass. Epoxy all the wood, place it back, and begin by glassing the patch back. Start a few inches larger then the wood you replaced and then a secon piece larger then the first. You should be able to paint back or maybe even tint the repair to match.

That's how mine started, now she sits in the yard with no floor at all. Or maybe you just need a new access hole and a hatch, then no replacing anything.

[chesapeake_dreamer]

I agree, you'll find more wet wood then you think. Cut a whole larger then your work area, be sure to cut on an angle 45* works well not too deep, don't want to cut the stringers. Sand/grind area of floor outside whole to take new glass. Epoxy all the wood, place it back, and begin by glassing the patch back. Start a few inches larger then the wood you replaced and then a secon piece larger then the first. You should be able to paint back or maybe even tint the repair to match.

That's how mine started, now she sits in the yard with no floor at all. Or maybe you just need a new access hole and a hatch, then no replacing anything.

[chesapeake_dreamer]

Maybe this describes it better.

1. Make sure to use Marine grade plywood (or at least hardwood plywood). Resin will not stick to pressure treated or pine.
2. When you cut out the old floor, cut on a 45 degree angle so your new flood (also cut on a 45) will have something to joint to. Sand everything, wipe clean, use tack cloth.
3.Wet out both sides, and all edges with a thinned out coat of resin. Make sure to wet out the exposed old floor as well.
3. Use a structural fiberglass, stiched bi-axle works well. Cut to fit leaving at least 3" of overlap. Wet out fiberglass, then put to floor and roll out with a metal roller. roll, roll roll. Make sure you get out ALL air bubbles, or you will get to know your sander all too well.
4. After it cures, put a second coat of resin down to "level".
5. Sand and paint (or Gelcoat).
till it looks like a factory finish. Make sure when you are installing your captains chairs, you predrill and put resin in all of the holes to avoid water.

[chesapeake_dreamer]

Maybe this describes it better.

1. Make sure to use Marine grade plywood (or at least hardwood plywood). Resin will not stick to pressure treated or pine.
2. When you cut out the old floor, cut on a 45 degree angle so your new flood (also cut on a 45) will have something to joint to. Sand everything, wipe clean, use tack cloth.
3.Wet out both sides, and all edges with a thinned out coat of resin. Make sure to wet out the exposed old floor as well.
3. Use a structural fiberglass, stiched bi-axle works well. Cut to fit leaving at least 3" of overlap. Wet out fiberglass, then put to floor and roll out with a metal roller. roll, roll roll. Make sure you get out ALL air bubbles, or you will get to know your sander all too well.
4. After it cures, put a second coat of resin down to "level".
5. Sand and paint (or Gelcoat).
till it looks like a factory finish. Make sure when you are installing your captains chairs, you predrill and put resin in all of the holes to avoid water.

[garagenc]

Thanks everyone I think I have a general understanding and with all the ideas I can use something from all the responces.
garagenc

[garagenc]

Thanks everyone I think I have a general understanding and with all the ideas I can use something from all the responces.
garagenc

[Skools Out]

just call Frayed he isn't far from you is he? he has plenty of resin and he just did his floor hatch

[Skools Out]

just call Frayed he isn't far from you is he? he has plenty of resin and he just did his floor hatch