View Full Version : Operation "Hatch Repair" underway
frayed_knot
05-20-2007, 06:53 PM
The weather was so pretty today, I shoulda put the boat in the water and went fishin', but I was in an ill mood (that means bad mood for all ya yanks) and I really didn't want to fight the idiots at the ramps. I decided it was a good time to get my repair started so it could be done by the long weekend.
Here is the object of repair, the infamous cover over the fuel tank. Squishier than Sponge Bob
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c274/phatpony/100_0731.jpg
Access covers removed, eeeewwww
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c274/phatpony/100_0732.jpg
Hatch off, eeeewwwww, what the hello is that crap?
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c274/phatpony/100_0733.jpg
frayed_knot
05-20-2007, 06:54 PM
Cover removed and the damage (aft access hole)
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c274/phatpony/100_0734.jpg
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c274/phatpony/100_0737.jpg
Forward hole
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c274/phatpony/100_0735.jpg
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c274/phatpony/100_0736.jpg
frayed_knot
05-20-2007, 06:57 PM
A look at the construction, looks like a gel coat over resin and mat.
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c274/phatpony/100_0738.jpg
At first this corner concerned me, but it is real solid. I may squirt some resin in the gap just to fill it.
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c274/phatpony/100_0739.jpg
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c274/phatpony/100_0740.jpg
frayed_knot
05-20-2007, 06:59 PM
The wood was totally covered by resin and mat, except where the access holes are cut out ( DUH ), water just got in and made a mess of it.
These pics are of the stuff I removed without help from any tools
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c274/phatpony/100_0741.jpg
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c274/phatpony/100_0742.jpg
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c274/phatpony/100_0743.jpg
frayed_knot
05-20-2007, 07:02 PM
Time to bust out some power tools, I needed to knock the edge of the glass off where it went down over the edge of the wood so I could get the wood out.
Tools of the trade.
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c274/phatpony/100_0744.jpg
After knocking the edge off and more hand work.
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c274/phatpony/100_0745.jpg
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c274/phatpony/100_0746.jpg
frayed_knot
05-20-2007, 07:04 PM
After using some putty knives.
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c274/phatpony/100_0747.jpg
After grinding all the wood stuff off.
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c274/phatpony/100_0748.jpg
Here is my replacement wood piece. I cut it so I had 1" of clearance all the way around the wood. The old lid had more like 2 1/2" all the way around.
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c274/phatpony/100_0749.jpg
frayed_knot
05-20-2007, 07:07 PM
Notice I cut it at an angle, I am hoping this will aid in the transition with the glass mat. 35 degrees is what I went for.
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c274/phatpony/100_0750.jpg
Just laid into the cover to see how I did. 1" all the way around.
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c274/phatpony/100_0751.jpg
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c274/phatpony/100_0752.jpg
That's it for today, I was all scratchy and wanted to get into the shower.
parishht
05-20-2007, 08:51 PM
Nice job, this will be a really good tutorial. ;)
This must be a common repair for our year, I have to
do mine soon too.
frayed_knot
05-20-2007, 09:24 PM
I think it is common for all years that had the fuel tank there. The foam isn't helping anything, it just holds the moisture. Stupid foam. Makes me worry about the rest of the floor, but I haven't come across any more soft spots. I'm keeping my fingers crossed.
I have noticed that a few other areas need to be thought about though. My battery platform and trim pump platform has wood rot as well. They used some heavy duty glass in there, so they are still standing, but now that I have materials, I may just go ahead and cut them out and replace them. The bulkhead just in front of the motor well ( I/O ) needs to be replaced too, as the wood is just as slimy as snot, but I figure that to be a winter project.
I think there is a combination of causes for the hatch cover though, like is shown in the pics, the access cover holes were just kinda cut in without glassing the exposed wood, also, the screws holding in the access cover bezels were not treated with any kind of sealant, thereby letting moisture to get in there as well, and did I mention the foam? I'm gonna go through all the in deck fasteners and coat them with some 4200, hopefully its not too late ::)
macojoe
05-20-2007, 10:29 PM
Looks good!!
But if were me I be digging out that foam and checking out the gas tank, before it starts leaking!
You have it open, might as well keep going!
frayed_knot
05-20-2007, 11:08 PM
But if were me I be digging out that foam and checking out the gas tank, before it starts leaking!
What would I be looking for exactly? Corrosion? My luck, I'd cause a leak ;) There is no smell of gasoline ( yet ) so I'm inclined to not dig around too much. However, I don't like the foam being there. Dangit, now what do I do?
macojoe
05-21-2007, 12:18 AM
Well your right! If you start digging you might end up with a season stopping problem??
If there is no gas smell then just finish the hatch, and fish, But this fall remove the hatch and cover for winter to dry out the foam and plan on it being a winter project!
But its something that needs to be done! Don't let it go to long!!
reelapeelin
05-21-2007, 01:01 AM
Let all the foam DRY OUT B4 ya reinstall the deck...w/it replaced and sealed properly, it shouldn't get moisture back in it ;) ...
Skools Out
05-21-2007, 01:20 AM
looks great just leave the foam in and have a good season without other issues
msbhammer
05-21-2007, 02:11 AM
Frayed, Great job, cant wait to see the rest of the work and the copleted project. Your doing good, keep on truckin. ;)
Airslot
05-21-2007, 09:39 AM
One question. with the wood coming within an inch of the edge, will the hatch go back in place? Pretty sure it will, but check it before you glass it in.
reelapeelin
05-21-2007, 09:53 AM
One question. with the wood coming within an inch of the edge, will the hatch go back in place? Pretty sure it will, but check it before you glass it in.
I's thinkin' the same thing ;) ... and I commend yer work FK ...looks like some good stuff goin' on there 8) ...
Skools Out
05-21-2007, 01:07 PM
hey Fray i can measure my 78 hatch to see what it has for spacing on the edges of mine.
frayed_knot
05-21-2007, 01:54 PM
There is a 1" lip all the way around the deck (see it in the pic), That's why I went with a 1" gap. Keep in mind, that the gap will be larger by the time the edge gets to the lip (angled cut). It looks like the edge of the cover just rests on the lip. I should have plenty of room. I could just sink some screws into the screw holes for the access covers and set it in place before glassing just to make sure. Thanks guys.
parishht
05-21-2007, 01:58 PM
Just out of curiosity, how much will the completed project cost you?
Stillrunning
05-21-2007, 03:05 PM
Looks good. Next time if you take a router and lower the bit about 1/4 inch and run it a round the edge of the wood then you can pull off the inner skin in one peice. Thats wht I have done and it seemed to work very well without all the grinding.
Does anyone know why Wellcraft uses these little 6x6 sections of plywood?
Blue_Runner
05-21-2007, 03:55 PM
Does anyone know why Wellcraft uses these little 6x6 sections of plywood?
They must get it for free. But you'd think all the time to cut and place all the little squares would make it more costly.
Didn't they realize that was a bad idea? ::)
frayed_knot
05-21-2007, 07:20 PM
Just out of curiosity, how much will the completed project cost you?
Good question. Here goes...1) resin and hardener, $20.00 (thanks Skools and Parker Boats) 2) Fiberglass Mat $0.00, it's good to know people that work at Hatteras Yachts 3) plywood $46.00 at Lowes, 4) dust masks, brushes, measuring cup and other misc stuff, $20.00. So far the grand total is $86.00. Just add labor (free cuz I'm doing it for me) and that is a real reasonable price for a repair.
frayed_knot
05-21-2007, 07:21 PM
Does anyone know why Wellcraft uses these little 6x6 sections of plywood?
I dunno, but that engineer needs his head examined. Every place that was cracked was right at a joint, go figure.
frayed_knot
05-21-2007, 11:18 PM
There wood in that there foam!
I was contemplating the whole foam thing, so I went and sat in the boat staring at the mess. I thought there was some wood cross supports somewhere in there, I mean who would just want to put all the weight transfer directly to the tank? Sure enough, I caught a glimpse of some wood and started digging around. I found 2 cross supports. They were totally soaked. Aww hell, I might as well dig 'em out so they can dry off.
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c274/phatpony/100_0754.jpg
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c274/phatpony/100_0755.jpg
I removed at least 70 lbs of soaked foam. As you can see it took a good majority of the zinc chromate primer with it. I suppose I could clean it up real good and hit it with some other type of aluminum primer, being as zinc chromate is illegal nowadays. The good news is no sign of corrosion on the top of the tank ;D
msbhammer
05-21-2007, 11:33 PM
Funny as hell when ya stated how you sat on the boat and stared at it. I do it all the time myself, hoping things might repair themselves. ;D
frayed_knot
05-21-2007, 11:38 PM
LOL, yeah, I do it to contemplate my next move. I like to think things through first. I am waiting to borrow a jigsaw from a buddy, that's why I didn't do anymore work on the hatch cover. I felt like I needed to do something for an hour. This fit the bill nicely.
Skools Out
05-22-2007, 12:23 AM
Does anyone know why Wellcraft uses these little 6x6 sections of plywood?
Most boat builders back then bought scrap wood at yards and used them to build the caps and decks. it was cheapest way to build them. Also they had alot of scrap wood laying around back then from their molds frames. most all your 1973 to 1985 boats had that in the floors it slowly change over in alot of lines over the years to now but astill some do that to their caps and decks.
Very nice, and know you have me thinking about my tank and cover..... Some one please stop me!!!
phatdaddy
05-22-2007, 09:41 AM
frayed, i removed & replaced the wooden braces on my tank. they were just sitting on top of the tank and held in place with the foam. if you do that, make sure the treated wood does not touch the tank, the chemicals in the wood will cause corrosion with the coating on the tank. i also cut some strips from an old boogie board and placed on top of the wood strips so the hatch sets slightly raised and when tightened down, it compressed the foam and gives a good snug fit. now is also a good time to redo the fastners, i did away with the screws and replaced with threaded screws and nuts
Airslot
05-22-2007, 10:18 AM
gives a good snug fit. *now is also a good time to redo the fastners, *i did away with the screws and replaced with threaded screws and nuts
Now Phat, you know this needs 'splainin. What kind nuts in this blind application?
Thank you for your attention to this matter sir ;)
Parrot_Head
05-22-2007, 10:48 AM
If you dont smell gas, DO NOT REMOVE THE FOAM !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! It is a pain in the arse. Trust me , i pulled all my foam out . Huge job. Plus the replacement foam is very expensive. What your doing looks good though.
Scott
Bygracealone
05-22-2007, 12:25 PM
Phat, I'm wondering the same thing that Air mentioned. How would you use threaded screws/bolts and nuts?
Fray, my hat's off to you buddy. Nice work so far. Thank you for posting the step by step process. As said earlier, this thread (because of your attention to detail) will prove to be very helpful to many guys down the road.
About the cross supports, what's the difference between the direct transfer of weight from the cover and the transfer of weight to the cross supports that rest on the tank? I could see a difference if the cross supports were tied into the stringers or something, but as long as they're just sitting on the tank, do they really help? Just asking...
parishht
05-22-2007, 12:50 PM
HUCK nuts or spack nuts would work in an application like this.
http://www.sweethaven02.com/Aviation/AirframeRepair/al0992a0022.gif
But, you need special tools to install.
Another option would be the clip nuts used in automotive applications.
http://www.hammondmfg.com/1421npic.jpg
parishht
05-22-2007, 01:54 PM
frayed, the reason I asked about the cost of repairing,
is because I was looking at the King Starboard site
and found some anti-skid board, they recommended a site
for purchasing and I checked .
Here is a link to what I found:
http://www.marisafe.com/Store/viewItem.asp?ID=358051379&CID=35800000&FLT=3580513 79
I wonder if a piece of this could be modified and dropped right in place?
frayed_knot
05-22-2007, 09:15 PM
Aiight fellas, the next installment.
I had to borrow a jigsaw to cutout the holes. It's not my fault they are not round, I used a pencil to scribe the holes from the cover, that is how they cut it ;)
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c274/phatpony/100_0756.jpg
Here is the cover with some plastic wrap over the holes (to keep the goo contained)
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c274/phatpony/100_0758.jpg
And flipped over and acetone wiped.
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c274/phatpony/100_0759.jpg
frayed_knot
05-22-2007, 09:19 PM
I didn't have the ability to get any pics of the goo going on, sticky stuff and cameras just don't go together. But here is the final product of tonights episode.
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c274/phatpony/100_0762.jpg
Anything that has weight that I could find, or could hold water got piled on. Lower left corner, see that? That is an isolation transformer. Got a car battery, oh and an electric motor on there too. ;D
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c274/phatpony/100_0761.jpg
Airslot
05-22-2007, 10:35 PM
If you needed 700 lbs of ballast, you could have just invited a few of our more portly members over ;D
frayed_knot
05-22-2007, 11:00 PM
Yeah, but I don't want them hanging out for a week ;)
Franco
05-22-2007, 11:08 PM
He would have to buy all Pepsi's all week!
Bygracealone
05-22-2007, 11:12 PM
Hey Franco, check your PM's when you get a moment ;)
frayed_knot
05-22-2007, 11:23 PM
He would have to buy all Pepsi's all week!
Nuttin but diet Pepsi for you guys ;) I live in the birthplace for Pepsi Cola btw, New Bern, North Carolina holds that distinction :D
frayed_knot
05-22-2007, 11:25 PM
BGA, sorry I didn't respond to your post about weight transfer. The wood cross pieces seem to transfer the load to the edges of the tank instead of having the weight pressing down just in the middle of it. Seems to work.
Bygracealone
05-22-2007, 11:37 PM
Okay, that makes sense.
Thanks for remembering my question...
msbhammer
05-22-2007, 11:57 PM
Looking good frayed. Your gonna be done soon enough.
Great step by step photo's. ;)
macojoe
05-23-2007, 12:51 AM
Looks good!! And I already drink Diet Pepsi ;)
parishht
05-23-2007, 09:54 AM
Looks really good.
I didn't see the kitchen sink in those pics?????????
phatdaddy
05-23-2007, 10:02 AM
frayed, i used these, not sure what you call them. *i got them at west marine. *i mounted them on a small piece of wood and "5200"ed them to the underside of the lip on the deck. you need to use something that will let you move it around until you get all in and tight and then will set up
http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e203/ffatdaddy/POL_0333.jpg
http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e203/ffatdaddy/POL_0334.jpg
http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e203/ffatdaddy/POL_0332.jpg
pics aren't too good. its a threaded flat washer with teeth to sink into wood. look in the fastner section of west marine they also work great on the rod boxes in the gunnells
msbhammer
05-23-2007, 11:46 AM
Thats a good find on parts Phats. ;)
reelapeelin
05-23-2007, 02:05 PM
Phat...those little puppies are called T-Nuts...handy items on boats ... several on mine now includin' the 4 that hold the elec. trollin' motor on the bow ... like I said...handy ... and they're so cheap, too ::) ... ;D ;D ...
parishht
05-23-2007, 02:44 PM
Those are great nuts, but why buy at WEST?
You can get the same at Lowes and Home Depot,
probably cheaper.
phatdaddy
05-23-2007, 08:56 PM
my daughter works at west marine ;D
frayed_knot
05-23-2007, 09:21 PM
Got any pics showing how you used them? You used these on the supports over the tank?
phatdaddy
05-23-2007, 09:28 PM
i'd have to take the tankcover off. i replaced the screws with the threaded ones. i kept having to get bigger screws because the holes were getting "wallerd"(its a southern thing) out. i took these and pressed them on a piece of pressure treated wood and "5200"ed them to the bottom of the lip the deck plate fits in. i then got the bolts to fit and snugged them down let it set 3 days and now i have a mech fastner not a screw hole.
frayed_knot
05-23-2007, 09:32 PM
Ohhhhhh, now I understand ;)
And I understood "wallerd", how about "winder" and "yant-to" ;D
phatdaddy
05-23-2007, 09:45 PM
i was "fixin" to post this pic, but all it shows is the head of the screw
http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e203/ffatdaddy/POL_0336.jpg
frayed_knot
05-23-2007, 10:45 PM
I see you have it caulked up too. I wonder if I should do that. Anybody have any input on that?
Bygracealone
05-23-2007, 11:09 PM
Fray, after all that good work you've done, I would definitely caulk it.
frayed_knot
05-23-2007, 11:12 PM
I wonder how much 4200 that would take?
msbhammer
05-23-2007, 11:12 PM
Yes to caulking her in. Cuts down on sand, water and moisture getting in.
phatdaddy
05-23-2007, 11:22 PM
i just used a good grade white silicone. it really dosen't have to hold anything & i usually go into it once or twice a year. i lay a bead about 3/8 in dia on the lip and then fasten the lid downon the opening
frayed_knot
05-23-2007, 11:28 PM
I love this site. Thanks guys! :)
frayed_knot
05-24-2007, 12:33 AM
Tomorrow I will start laying on some glass. Pics to follow.
msbhammer
05-24-2007, 12:36 AM
Cant wait. ;)
Skools Out
05-24-2007, 12:37 AM
do you need more resin? or hardner? how well did the resin work out for ya so far?
macojoe
05-24-2007, 01:49 AM
I would just use some cheap calk for now, When you put the boat up for the winter, take the cover off and allow the foam to dry out, then in spring reinstall cover with 4200.
msbhammer
05-24-2007, 01:56 AM
Thats not a bad idea as MJ stated. But does foam dry out ???
frayed_knot
05-24-2007, 08:13 AM
do you need more resin? or hardner? how well did the resin work out for ya so far?
I believe I'm good on the resin :D It seemed to work OK, I still have all the stuff piled on so I can't tell ya just yet. It sure seemed to take forever to setup though. I only mixed .5% MEPK ( 16 oz resin to 1/2 tsp catalyst). I wanted plenty of time to work, but this was like over 4 hours before kicking. It was setup by the morning though.
Skools Out
05-24-2007, 09:11 AM
that's really best the slower it sets up the stronger the bond plus it soaks into the wood better, sounds like you did great. we want pics.
frayed_knot
05-24-2007, 08:24 PM
Here it is without the weight
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c274/phatpony/100_0763.jpg
Uh-oh, we got a problem >:(
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c274/phatpony/100_0764.jpg
It may be hard to see, but there is NO BOND where I have that piece of wood sticking in. It goes all the way to the outside edge and for and aft at least 18". I mixed up a hot batch of resin and dumped it in the hole, then set some weight on it.
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c274/phatpony/100_0765.jpg
I dunno what happened exactly, but it looks like I just didn't have enough of the sticky stuff on there and the wood soaked up some. Well, I'm on hold until this sets up, but I am going to end up with some unbonded "pockets". I'll just get her sealed up the best I can and hope she makes it 4 or 5 years. More to come tomorrow.
phatdaddy
05-24-2007, 09:00 PM
might have had too much weight and pushed the resin out. i've done that with clamps before' either way. its better than it was.
frayed_knot
05-24-2007, 09:02 PM
Nah, not much squeezed out. Musta been from lack of goo. My bad.
Skools Out
05-24-2007, 11:43 PM
you'll be ok that resin probably soaked into the wood but not an issue you did it right ;D
frayed_knot
05-24-2007, 11:43 PM
OK. it setup quicker than I thought it would, so I got to it.
Flipped over ready for some resin
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c274/phatpony/100_0766.jpg
And here it is with resin and cloth applied
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c274/phatpony/100_0767.jpg
The freebie mat I got was real heavy roving with matting applied to one side. Way too heavy for this job, it would be great for stringers or maybe even a transom. I might try it when I rebuild my battery and trim pump shelves.
Skools Out
05-24-2007, 11:46 PM
looks great one coat is all you need. hey how much resin do ya have left enough for the battery tray?
frayed_knot
05-24-2007, 11:53 PM
Really! I was planning a second coat of resin just cuz. But screw that if I don't ;D Yeah bro I have plenty of resin left, more than a gallon I'm sure. I only used maybe 3/4 of a gallon on this job.
Skools Out
05-24-2007, 11:57 PM
lol oh well hell rebuild the battery tray and more then ;D
frayed_knot
05-25-2007, 12:05 AM
If I knew how I'd build a seat box or two ;)
Skools Out
05-25-2007, 12:25 AM
come on over we'll build one or 2 maybe 4 or more. ;D
frayed_knot
05-25-2007, 12:27 AM
Aiiight :D
76GMC1500
05-25-2007, 03:32 AM
If you ever do this again, put the more ridgid portion (the plywood) on the ground and the sheet of cured glass on top and then add weight. Thickened resin also helps ensure no gaps.
Skools Out
05-25-2007, 08:39 AM
um hello that resin is thick and not that cheap crap from boaters world , if that hatch is like my 78 you can't put the wood side down the lip is thicker than the wood. Frayed you did good no issues now get on the water but pick me up inEI while out cruising ;D
macojoe
05-25-2007, 09:40 AM
Great job!! The only thing I have done before was toroll a coat of resin on the woood first, this way it sucked up, then do a thick coaty just like you did.
But like skools said you done good and I bet its going to be fine for years!
frayed_knot
05-26-2007, 12:30 AM
Well, I'm all set to reinstall the cover tomorrow. I spent $50 at Lowes getting some silicone and stainless hardware to do the phatdaddy method of hatch securing. I actually found the tee-nuts in stainless, but they ain't cheap, $4.97 for 2 :o I'm gonna use 4200 to stick the blocks in place ( cuz that's what I got ;) ) I figure I'll clamp them in place until the 4200 sets up a little then put the cover on and tighten the screws, that'll hold her down. I went all over New Bern looking for some self etching primer for the fuel tank. I finally found some at Auto Zone. It's a hideous green color, but who cares.
phatdaddy
05-26-2007, 01:13 AM
frayed, you might want to put the hatch on right after you goop the t nuts to the deck, that way you can wiggle them around and make sure they line up, *once you get them all started, tighten em up and let them set up.
west catalogue has the stainless 1/4 tnuts 2 for $3.79.
frayed_knot
05-26-2007, 01:18 AM
OK, sounds good, thanks phat.
Weird to say phat by the way, on every other non-boat board I'm on, I'm Phatpony :D
frayed_knot
05-26-2007, 01:21 AM
Hey MJ, I thought about pretreating the wood, but I just couldn't find the info to substantiate doing that first. Next time I will do just that, but I will start in the morning and apply the second coat and cloth (depending on what I'm building / repairing) after the first coat gets tacky. ;)
Skools Out
05-26-2007, 01:38 AM
if you coat the wood first and it soaks in and dries your bond to the glass will be terrible and will come loose later, if you coat both heavily and bond together the resin soaks into the wood and cures to the glass as well and is bonded as 1 piece.
reelapeelin
05-26-2007, 09:33 AM
Frayed, I hear what Phat's sayin' about puttin' the screws in B4 the 4200 cures, and admittedly it's a "rock and hard place" thing, but if you try startin' those screws w/ the 42 still wet, it'll be REEL easy to push the block away from it's intended location B4 the screw starts threading the nut ...it'll take a LIGHT touch ...
...another thing to consider...those T-Nuts do their job REEL well and will allow LOTS of torque ... take 'er easy when tightening or that fiberglass'll go to crackin' on ya :o ...
...anyway, hope ya "geeter-dun" quick ;) ... it's time to SPLASH 8) ...
macojoe
05-26-2007, 02:33 PM
if you coat the wood first and it soaks in and dries your bond to the glass will be terrible and will come loose later, if you coat both heavily and bond together the resin soaks into the wood and cures to the glass as well and is bonded as 1 piece.
Gee you would think glass would stick to glass? Learn something new every day!! Thats why we call him Lord Skools!http://syncboard.com/albums/album02/whacky084.gif
frayed_knot
05-26-2007, 07:26 PM
If'n one was to pretreat, you would have to apply the second coat within a certain time period, before cured, to make a good chemical bond. That's why it would need to be a morning start. Have to sit there with a beerskie touching the goo every so often so as not to miss the window of opportunity ;)
So anyway, that's all water under the keel now. I'm done! I'm not the least bit happy with it though. Remember those unbonded pockets I referred to earlier? Well, they sound like I'm going to break the dang thing as I walk on it, snap crackle pop. Only where the bond isn't good. It seems plenty strong though, I can walk on it without it sagging. So that's good I guess. The Phatdaddy mod didn't work out so good for me either. Not what you would expect though. I went ahead and bonded the blocks of wood with the 4200, but instead of putting the lid on there, I eyeballed the alignment and drove the screws right in until it cured. That worked just fine. The problem came once I ran my bead of silicone all the way around the opening and set the lid in place. 3 out of the eight Tee nuts didn't stick into the wood!!!! As I put my screw in, they popped out the back side of the block. HOLY CRAP!!!! Well, I didn't pull the lid back up. Ta hell with it for now >:( I needed to get it back together to take the family out tomorrow, and it's done enough for that. I'll post my pics later on after I have a chance to cool down.
macojoe
05-26-2007, 07:35 PM
Just fish, you can revist it over the winter!!
frayed_knot
05-26-2007, 07:37 PM
Dat's what I'm talkin about! ;)
reelapeelin
05-26-2007, 07:46 PM
Bummer on the T-Nuts fallin' thru...happened to me B4, but I was able to get 'em...w/ no nut to hold 'em, just fill the hole w/4200 and seat the screw in there ... it'll look right and seal the hole ...that hatch-lid ain't goin' anywhere ;) ...
Can you tell exactly where the air-pockets are ... if so, drill 1/8th or so hole in the center of the pocket(this in the groove between non-skid), take a hypodermic syringe and inject the hole w/resin...let cure, then drill out just enough to hold some filler ... you'll never see 'em ...and the noise will go away 8) ...go enjoy the boat...ya did a good job ;) ;D ;D ;D ...
Do the above later on...take your family out and enjoy the weekend ;) ;D ...
phatdaddy
05-26-2007, 09:20 PM
sorry frayed, hope i didn't lead you astray. the tee nuts only get a grip when you sink them into the wood. i tapped mine in with a hammer to the blocks of wood about the size of a business card. gooped them with the 5200 and set them in place. then i lightly laid the deck plate on and got the screws started. once i got them all started i went around and tighten then like a head gasket. sorry if i messed you up
anyway, like mj & rap say, just go use it.......
frayed_knot
05-26-2007, 09:48 PM
Don't worry about it phat, it is a great idea and one that I will make work next time I have the lid off. I did tap them in with a hammer though, and they had pressure on them for a few hours. I have no idea why they did what they did. This winter I'll take those blocks back out and replace them with some blocks coated in resin. I'll make sure the tee nuts are resined in this time ;)
frayed_knot
05-27-2007, 12:28 AM
As promised, pics! :D
Here is the completed hatch cover. I had to replace the deck plates and could only find white ones. It works.
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c274/phatpony/100_0768.jpg
The fuel tank after it's new coat of primer
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c274/phatpony/100_0769.jpg
The Tee nuts
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c274/phatpony/100_0770.jpg
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c274/phatpony/100_0771.jpg
frayed_knot
05-27-2007, 12:33 AM
Here is how I mounted them while waiting for the 4200 to setup
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c274/phatpony/100_0772.jpg
The two at the very front I had problems with. The way the holes were drilled put them too close to the front bulkhead so the block of wood couldn't be mounted up there. Here you can see where the bulkhead is. I drilled 2 new holes and mounted the blocks farther aft.
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c274/phatpony/100_0773.jpg
Here is the completed ( ? ) project. The silicone was skinning up real quick, so I had to fill the cracks and smooth them out in sections.
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c274/phatpony/100_0774.jpg
Skools Out
05-27-2007, 12:34 AM
looks great pick me up lets fish. ;D
frayed_knot
05-27-2007, 12:38 AM
Aiight!! ;D
There was a 17 lb striper caught in New Bern this week!!! Probably one of the biggest ever caught in the Neuse river.
macojoe
05-27-2007, 12:45 AM
we have a guy on another board that just caught a 51.1 pounder!
Man I have to start fishing soon!!!!!!!!! :-/
http://syncboard.com/albums/Fishing/Johnandhismama.sized.jpg
reelapeelin
05-27-2007, 03:01 PM
51 lbs :o ...that's a DAWG w/a HAWG ;) ;D ;D ;D ;D ...
Frayed believe it or not, when mountin' the elec. trollin' motor , I put a small screw on each side of the T-Nuts w/the screw-head's edge over the edge of the T-Nut so it WOULDN'T get pushed out ;) ... I had dropped a couple into the bottom of the anchor-locker B4 thinkin' of that ::) ...
billfish16
07-21-2007, 08:31 PM
I just started this project on my V20. I do not own a router and I was going to use my Dremel but I forgot to bring it to the shore. I used a circular saw to cut around the underside edges of the hatch to get at that nasty parkay plywood. What the &*$?#@ were they thinking back then? Anyway the fiberglass peeled off that soaked plywood like blisters off sunburnt skin. I took pics and i will post them next week. My question is what kind of fiberglas do I use, the neatly woven stuff or the stuff that looks chopped up? Since Wellcraft used the chopped up stuff the other stuff is probably best??????? Also what thickness of glass is best????
Thanks,
Billfish16
frayed_knot
07-21-2007, 11:44 PM
I used the neat stuff, I believe it's called cloth, not mat. I just got some of the cloth made by Elmer's I found at Wally World. Not all resin is created equal, I actually used the polyester resin Parker Boats uses (thanks Skools ;D ) so I know it was the right stuff to use. Don't bother with the resin you find at Wally World or Lowes, wrong stuff. You could spend the $$ and go with epoxy, very strong and durable and sticks to just about anything.
billfish16
07-23-2007, 02:47 AM
thx, I bought the Elmer's REsin at Lowes, I will be returning that based on your info. I have read on this Site that the Boater's or Boatyard resin at BW is not good. I quesss I will buy the MAS from BW or the West System.
How much resin did your hatch rebuild need?
thx
Bill
Skools Out
07-23-2007, 02:51 AM
lol Well he didn't need near what i got him, he got almost 2 gallons of resin from Parker Boats lol
C YENSEN
07-23-2007, 09:49 AM
looking good Frayed........ ;D
I still wanna know why the hell Wellcraft used all those small squares instead of one big piece??????????? :-/
macojoe
07-23-2007, 01:30 PM
I guess they thought it would be stronger and more flexable?? You have to admit it lasted 20 years!!
frayed_knot
07-25-2007, 09:43 AM
How much resin did your hatch rebuild need?
thx
Bill
Maybe half a gallon.
Stillrunning
07-25-2007, 12:34 PM
looking good Frayed........ ;D
I still wanna know why the hell Wellcraft used all those small squares instead of one big piece??????????? :-/
I have wondered the same thing every time I do a repair. My last conclusion was that they have a small amount of resin between each peice so if one get water intrusion it makes it tougher for it to spread. That idea seems weak with all the repairs I see people doing to their V's.
frayed_knot
07-26-2007, 11:19 PM
One thought of why they used them is that it is easier to create a crown in the cover/floor if it's made of a bunch of small pieces, instead of trying to bend 1 big piece.
Skools Out
07-28-2007, 03:48 AM
they used the small pieces cause they have so much scrap wood alot of companies think it saving money to use it but it usually cost more after all the man hours to cut into squares and fit to the floors, it's only to save the scrap and save money no other reason.
whatknot
08-08-2007, 11:15 AM
Great information. I'm heading to the marina to snatch my tank with the lift. Not going to use foam on the install. Hatch is wasted. So once again V20 forum gives my brain a little slack time cause I won't have to think bout how I'm gonna fix it. Many thanks...
msbhammer
08-08-2007, 12:22 PM
I'll be doing the same thing on my fuel hatch once the transom is done. ;)
parishht
08-08-2007, 12:35 PM
Once you take the fuel hatch off,
you will understand one of my projects.
There is a big open space between the fuel tank and the cuddy.
Good storage area.
msbhammer
08-08-2007, 12:47 PM
Hmmmm. ;D
Hammerhead
08-09-2007, 06:41 PM
Funny as hell when ya stated how you sat on the boat and stared at it. I do it all the time myself, hoping things might repair themselves. *;D
heheh...I've done that imagining I'm out fishin'....convinced myself so well I almost got seasick.
When I replaced the floor of my Bonito I put resin only on the bottom side of marine plywood and then used mat and cloth on the top. I used the West System expoxy resin from WM. For attaching the ply to the stingers I used 2 part epoxy glue and SS wood screws.
Then I cut some relief holes and filled with the proper amount of foam. the job came out rock solid.
Sorry your not totally happy with it but, I think ya did a good job FK.
frayed_knot
08-09-2007, 11:18 PM
Sorry your not totally happy with it but, I think ya did a good job FK.
Thanks. It was a learning experience if nothing else. It is solid as a rock, it just makes a horrid crackling sound when you walk on it.
msbhammer
08-11-2007, 12:35 AM
Frayed...so what type of goo did you use. ??? ???
West system ????
frayed_knot
08-11-2007, 12:48 AM
Frayed...so what type of goo did you use. ??? ???
West system ????
Nope, got some poly resin from Parker boats via Skools.
msbhammer
08-11-2007, 01:01 AM
OOPS, Yep, I remember reading that now. So how is it holding up since the repair ?? Any more seperation ???
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