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View Full Version : SKOOL TELL ME IT CAN BE FIXED!!!!


chesapeake_dreamin
08-22-2007, 08:59 PM
So it's 110* and I've spent days grinding and prepping to install the new stringers and kleets I built and sealed with resin
http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z197/chesapeake_dreamer/P8220005.jpg
http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z197/chesapeake_dreamer/P8220006.jpg
right length hieght all this after spending hours cuting measuring and ripping ferring strips because the old floor had no pitch to it. In other words, it was angled towards the center allowing water to pool instead of running towards the walls and rear as it should.
I went to install the stringers to find that the previous owner installed a box. This box did not allow room for the new 3/4" plywood stringers to fit inside the space so I removed it.
http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z197/chesapeake_dreamer/P8220008.jpg
http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z197/chesapeake_dreamer/P8220007.jpg
This ment more grinding and prepping. So me and Nikki ( my trusty 4 1/2" angle grinder) went to work. Amist the cloud of dust I noticed something that didn't look quite right. Figured it out yet? As the dust settled I noticed two things.
First a nasty on my shin that Nikki put there
http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z197/chesapeake_dreamer/P8220013.jpg
AND THIS!
http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z197/chesapeake_dreamer/P8220009.jpg
I know it's from the outside but, that's because when I realized I had cut through the hull, I promptly ground down the clean glass inside and hopped out and under to sand away bottum paint and gel coat. It was then that I remembered, I have never fixed anything like this before but fugured it had to be ground/sanded down to bare material and packed and glassed and brought back up like any other hole.

I have no clue where to go from here, any suggestions.
Thanks, Mark
P.S. the stringer really are perfect and Stink was right, boatyard is good resin.

chesapeake_dreamin
08-22-2007, 09:36 PM
man I screwed up big time, should've quit while I was ahead. I know this can be fixed, I hatethe thought of junking her when I'm so close to done.

macojoe
08-22-2007, 10:12 PM
It can be fixed!!

But WOW!!!!!! :o

Glass from the inside with heavy matt, a few layers, Then on the outside with at least 3 layers small to large sand and flare and paint.

chesapeake_dreamin
08-22-2007, 10:32 PM
I was removing a glop of resin looked like someone piled it up in the corner and suddenly wham right through. like a hot knife through butter. Neighbor tells me to buy some putty stick he saw at boaters world but I think you have the right idea. At least I was thinking I had to rebuild it with layers of matt and resin

msbhammer
08-22-2007, 11:17 PM
Thats an easy fix, just like M.J. said to do. couple layers of resin and cloth on the inside, going from a small size cloth to a bigger size to give strenght. Then do the same to the outside and add in some bondo, then all done.
Whats up with the resin you were talking about ?? how much and whats the ratio to resin and hardner ??, does it come with special pumps like West System ??
Pics, Pics. ;D

msbhammer
08-22-2007, 11:20 PM
Good work though, glad to see that your still working on it. Nothing but rain up here and police contract talks, so I dont have time to work on theV at all. Maybe this weekend.



Oh yeah, my birthday is coming up real soon on the 3rd. so feel free to send me cash or a bracket, motor or any resin for my freeee bithday gifts. ;D ;D ;D ;D

Skools_Dual
08-23-2007, 12:33 AM
is that a flat straight area or have some curve? before you start i need to know for better help.

whatknot
08-23-2007, 02:18 AM
Good God! I was prolly just the heat that made you crazy. Oh yeah, plenty of water instead of beer. Don't beat yourself up to bad.

parishht
08-23-2007, 10:26 AM
We all complain about WEST, but one thing I bought there
that I really thought was a good deal for the money
is this book,
it is not that expensive and it gives step by step repair instructions, even for hull repairs.

http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g18/parishht/fiberglassbook.jpg

Stillrunning
08-23-2007, 12:04 PM
I watched a show were they made a repair like this. They started by taking a peice of carboard and rubbing it with wax on the side facing the hole. Then they taped it to the bottom of the baot over the hole forming it to the boat. They then did the glass layers to the inside and after it set they removed the cardboard and sanded. Did the outside layers sanded and it was good to go. The guy said he used the card board as backing so he could work the glass over the hole area.

chesapeake_dreamin
08-23-2007, 12:38 PM
there's a slight curve and then the chine is there also. I'm on duty today so I can't take more pics. but will be attacking this over the weelend. I'm hoping it won't be too hard. Last owner poured resin into the bottum of the boat and I got carried away grinding it out. I just want it to be right and pretty also and worry I'm reaching the edge of my knowledge.

chesapeake_dreamin
08-23-2007, 12:47 PM
this is the resin
http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z197/chesapeake_dreamer/P8220008-1.jpg

it's called boatyard and I think it's made by evercoat Good stuff 12 drops mpk/1oz resin. set up well even in the high heat yesterday. my only concern was this am 0600 hrs it was still a bit tacky but dry to the touch if that makes any sense. $30.00 a gallon comes with the hardener.

macojoe
08-23-2007, 01:20 PM
It can be fixed!!

But could you have picked a more difficult spot?

chesapeake_dreamin
08-23-2007, 04:11 PM
I don't think so. At least it will be a good learning experience!!!! ;D

tsubaki
08-23-2007, 06:40 PM
My fiberglass skills are so poor that I would have to remove that motor, windshield, steering wheel and rotate the boat to keep the glass in place while it cures.
Let me find what we did with a 16' boat in the posts.

tsubaki
08-23-2007, 06:55 PM
JESUS CHRIST,IT TOOK ME 10 MINUTES TO GET BACK TO THIS POST. Anyway.
This is what we used to repair the bottom of a 16' Ashcraft ripoff. It may be a little hairey on a 20' boat.
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w159/tsubaki3/Picture127.jpg
All we did was back the boat between two trees, hoist the front above the trailer, loop a chain around this at the rear and hoist it high enough to get the trailer out.
One person could easily rotate the boat.
Oh attach to the lower bolt holes.

Skools_Dual
08-23-2007, 09:07 PM
i hate to say it to you but that is not the resin you want for under water patches. that is cheap grade resin and what ever thay call for in hardner double it at least or it may never set up. since it has a slight curve lay some wax paper inside the hull and then lay out some glass in a couple layers then once it sets up pick it up and pill the wax paper off the glass part you made now you need to fit it to where it fits tight in the hole you have and then glass patch it in on both sides around the cut line and once glassed in you need to lay a full layer of glass over both sides of the hole and the insert you made. make sure the inside piece can be much larger than the hole but the out side needs to be at least 4 to 6 inches over the hole size all the way around. does this make since?

tsubaki
08-23-2007, 09:28 PM
Skools, is it any way possible to educate us on the different resins.
When doing my transom I found a wide difference in price between manufacturers.
We stuck with one that said "marine polyester resin" and used it.
Don't make sence that the prices are different if the product is the same?
I've always went on the assumption that "fiberglass is fiberglass".

Skools_Dual
08-24-2007, 12:22 AM
well you are right glass is glass but resin is a while another story

the best resin to use and usually the cheapest is to look up a close boat builder and go to them and buy the resin they use directly from the builders most all will sell stuff with a 2 to 5 percent over their cost price. i'll try to find the link i had about resin and what to use where.

Skools_Dual
08-24-2007, 12:42 AM
here ya go

RESIN TYPES - THEIR ADVANTAGES & DISADVANTAGES


There are several types of resins that Fiberglass Coatings offers. This page is a high level look at the advantages and disadvantages of each resin. If you need more detail please call one of our technical support representatives to get all of your questions answered.




NSR or Boatyard

Inexpensive
Highly inhibited for longer shelf life
Stays liquid longer
Shouldn't be used below the waterline
Shows cosmetic defects



GP Marine

Highly inhibited for longer shelf life
Fast wet-out
A good industrial laminating resin
Water can bleed through and cause blisters or laminating problems



Boat Builder or Low Profile

Designed for boats that don't stay in the water
Higher heat temperature distortion
Better water resistance
Low shrink - good cosmetically



Isophthalic

Corrosion resistance
Good chemical resistance
High strength



Vinylester

High water barrier resistance
Better bonding strength
Helps to prevent osmotic blistering
Better physical strength



Orthophthalic (GP100)

Absorbs less water
Shrinks less - good cosmetically
Good for hand wet-out
Can be used above or below the waterline



Clear Casting

Colorless and clear as ice
Used for casting and embedding



Surfboard

Clear, wax free
Designed for surf and sail board building or repair

Skools_Dual
08-24-2007, 12:44 AM
what i use is Parker Marine's resin which is Vinylester, that's what you used for your floor Frayed so you know it will out last the boat

where to buy if you can't find a boat builder near by

http://www.fgci.com/

msbhammer
08-24-2007, 01:46 AM
I know SKOOL doesnt use it, but I have been happy with te results of West System. I just dont like the price of it.

chesapeake_dreamin
08-24-2007, 02:31 AM
Makes sense, I didn't know about the wax paper but I'll do it. The resin I bought was for coating the stringers. I'll hit the local marina here and look for the vynilester you mentioned. Could I use epoxy like MOS for this repair?

Skools_Dual
08-24-2007, 02:36 AM
epoxy doesn't sand well and will leave a uneven finish when you are done. but you can yes


the wax paper is only so you are basically using the hull and the wax paper as a mold the resin and cloth won't stick to the wax paper that way you can trim the piece you make on the wax paper to fill the hole you have, just trim it after it's cure till it fits tight in the hole and then glass in with cloth and you will have a better bond.


TAPE THE WAX PAPER TO THE HULL AS TIGHT AS YOU CAN SO IT DOESN'T SAG WITH THE WEIGHT OF THE GLASS.


you want a mirror piece of the hull basically to put in the hole as a filler.

chesapeake_dreamin
08-24-2007, 02:43 AM
sounds good, I'll be tackling it Monday. Grand kid's here this weekend. Ya know, I all most didn't grind on the boat last night but, I wanted to get a lot done because the kids were excited about me getting the boat fixed. Oh well. I know the hardware store by the docks sells that gp100, I'll ask about it in the am I only ask about the MOS because a guy here used it but I'd rather work with something a bit easier to clean up. I need this to be as close to perfect so it doesn't increase drag or leak.

chesapeake_dreamin
08-24-2007, 02:45 AM
thanks again for your help, I was going to just layer glass from both sides. I'm not too worried about it, and since I'll be repainting the bottum anyhow, I'm not to worried about the gelcoat. I should recoat after the repair right.

Skools_Dual
08-24-2007, 02:55 AM
i like MAS epoxy but mainly for bonding stuff, i have actually used on holes like that gorilla tape on the hole on one side ans the on the other working side i would lay my wax paper to it so the tape is support and keeps the resin from leaking thru, i always use either gorilla or duc tape on the back side to hold my patch piece in and then i lay my part in place and then fill the voids with resin once dry i take the tape off and then grind to ruff the new resin slightly and then i'll glass both sides heavy to hold my filler patch in place and then line sand smooth and then mix resin with micro balloons and then wipe acoat over my patch to fill any pits or low areas and then line sand straight and smooth to look like it never was fixed.


look at this from my V20 work where i use wood but you are doing the same with glass i filled with a wood piece that i taped the hole up so no leaks and then filled the voids with resin and then glassed both sides sand and microed the area now just need to sand

http://www.wellcraftv20.com/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.cgi?board=Repairs;action=display;num=11823861 45;start=60#60

msbhammer
08-24-2007, 03:25 AM
Not to Hi-Jack Here, but whats going on with the V SKOOL. :-/ ??? ??? ??? ???

chesapeake_dreamin
08-25-2007, 05:16 PM
I've looked high and low and all most went the epoxy route but since you sent me the link, I'm going to order the vinyl ester. Been raining and the kids and grandkids are here so no work till Monday or Tuesday But I'll be sure to post pics of the repairs. Thanks again for all the help. Good news is, wifey gave the go ahead on the next project V Needs lots of work actually rebuilding from the hull up but, good for the pilot house idea I saw in another thread. Figure I have plenty of time to do it once this one is back in the water.

msbhammer
08-25-2007, 05:51 PM
Ches, you mean your gonna grab that V with the tree growing out of the deck ???
Your totally Hardcore if you do. ;D

chesapeake_dreamin
08-26-2007, 11:00 AM
yep!! Wifey said no brop, as soon as this one's done I can get the pos and rebuild her from the ground up!!!

msbhammer
08-30-2007, 07:17 AM
Whats the word or the repair Ches. You getter done yet ?? Pics. >:(

chesapeake_dreamin
08-30-2007, 05:01 PM
lots of overtime so no major work all though, the grinding and sanding is done. I have a guy who's donating fiberglass, love those freebees, and the resin should be in this week. I would have worked on her today but instead went to Scott's ( my fishing buddy) and hung a 250 yammie on his 25' auqasport. Took some doing getting the old kuzi with the siezed heads off the back and undoing all the stearing cables but got it done. Should have it on the water Sunday will post pics if we do, then next week patch my hole and put the stringers and floor back then on the water, barring anymore setbacks.

msbhammer
08-30-2007, 07:09 PM
Sounds like a plan. ;)

chesapeake_dreamin
09-02-2007, 12:50 PM
pray the rain stops!!!!! Very humid and wet here this weekend. Had planned on attacking the hole and finishing the stringers and floor this weekend. So wet, I'm worried about having problems with the resin setting up. In anycase, if it should clear up, there will be pics to follow. Got the freebie fiberglass resin and everything, just waiting on good weather.

macojoe
09-02-2007, 12:53 PM
We have had no rain for better then a week and they say that we are all sun till next friday!

chesapeake_dreamin
09-02-2007, 03:19 PM
grind sand acetone. Fill dry fit wood, patch gaps repeat, for two hours while the skies are blue only to mix a batch of resin and have the rain start. Oh well two moredays behind ain't going to hurt me now. Maybe tomorrow. Getting the redfish itch bad and it's that time of year. It has to dry up a bit soon. In anycase first time the humidity drops, everything is sitting on go ready to be glass in.

chesapeake_dreamin
09-02-2007, 03:25 PM
oh yeah and even with the fans going , I still got light headed from the acetone. WOW! Good news is, it's to wet to cut the grass ;D So, I have all day to prep wood and finishing getting all the details in place so it will be a hopefully easy install. Have a friend who use to do glass work willing to come over next week and help so it looks good for a quick fix

msbhammer
09-03-2007, 02:54 AM
;D ;D ;D Didnt understand a single word you typed. Post pics. so I can follow. ;D

chesapeake_dreamin
09-03-2007, 04:03 PM
LOL well the weather man was wrong and after an hour cutting grass and waiting on the rain, I called a friend( retired fiberglass guy) and we went at it. Patched the hole I cut by accident and sealed the stringers and other various wood parts I've prefabbed. Only did the inside hull today, He suggested letting everything set up sand and then patch the outside. I would have taken pics but, that stuff gets sticky quick and I didn't want to hear from wifey about all the goop on the digital camera.

P.S. the cool cop a/c thingy, works like a charm no more heat rash!!! Will post pics after a good cleaning and finishing up.

chesapeake_dreamin
09-03-2007, 07:21 PM
Sorry hammer here are the pics
outside of boat gorilla tape holding plastic in place while inside 3 layers of glass cures
http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z197/chesapeake_dreamer/P9030001.jpg
the rest are the cutting and sanding, dry fitting everything so when I glass it in it will be just right.
http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z197/chesapeake_dreamer/P9030002.jpg
http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z197/chesapeake_dreamer/P9030003.jpg
http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z197/chesapeake_dreamer/P9030004.jpg
the pieces scewed in to the side are covering scarf joints, we put them in place over top of a piece of plastic had to make 10 plus foot lengths out of 8' ply. They'll be taken off and kleets added for the new bulkheads. then everything glassed in liquid nails tank tie down new plumbing all coverd by a nice layer of glass and white pigment. Hopefully splash down in a week. So long as the weather holds out. All ready making plans for the v20 rebuild
http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z197/chesapeake_dreamer/P8050057.jpg
making sure the numbers are right before I start the rebuild, hate the thought of roding a boat only to find out I can't title her.

bradford
09-03-2007, 11:02 PM
Titles ??? *We don't need no stinkin' titles! * ;D

msbhammer
09-04-2007, 01:27 PM
Lookin good Ches. Glad you did some work on her this past weekend. Hoping to do some work today on mine. ;)