Gas in the bilge

[whale]

OK, so it seems I have gas in the bilge after pulling the boat last weekend. I have drained it and plugged it and it accumulates slowly once again. I turned the valve off at the tank to presumably see if it was coming from anywhere in the fuel lines. Assuming now that it isn't is there anything I can do besides removing the tank? Pressure test it somehow? Any other ides?

[tsubaki]

Saddle tanks or what?
Those tanks are only good for about 3-5psi from what I remember.
Compartment cover removal and tracing flow might be the only useful means of finding leak.

[whale]

Sorry, it is a 60 gallon tank below deck......1985 looks like original aluminum tank. I have the cover off the tank and the top looks OK but who knows what lurks below. :-[

[tsubaki]

whatknot just did a refit and had a tank made. I don't think he showed the replaced tanks condition.
Hate to influence you to try to remove it to inspect it without real reason.

[tsubaki]

Well with the cover off, plug the vent and outgo (or fill) and apply (very slight) pressure or vaccume to the fill (or outgo) and see if you loose pressure or vaccume.
There are a couple of patching puttys available for short term (2 years plus) till you replace the tank.

[wpearch]

make sure the vent is not plugged dam spiders



step 1 call insurance man
step 2 light match
step 3 run like hell
step 5 go shopping for a new V


LOL ;D

[wpearch]

step 4 spend (do) time with the tattooed guy

[tsubaki]

pearch, you been drinkin? ;D

[wpearch]

NO but good sounds good

[tsubaki]

;D

[msbhammer]

LOL. ;D

[randlemanboater]

There are two kinds of V-20's, those with a new gas tank, and those that will need one.

[Carl]

Hey Kevin,

How much gas do you currently have in the tank?

Carl

[whale]

Hey Kevin,

How much gas do you currently have in the tank?

Carl

I would only know that if I had a working gas gauge. ;D

I put 10 gallons in prior to the last trip which was only a few miles. I had been doing that for a while so I'm not sure what is left. Going to try and drain it today.

[Carl]

I have two empty 5 gallon jugs in my shed if you need them to try and save some of the gas.

Carl

[Pipe_Dream]

Make sure you don't have any leaks where the filler hose enters or the feeder hose leaves the tank. If your tank has a sending unit for a gauge you could have a leak there as well. Any of these you should be able to see if you remove the cover, or through access holes if your cover has them.

You can try to pressure test it but imho the results are not definitive.

If you can eliminate the top leak posibilities, the odds are pretty good you have a leak in your tank. I had two holes in mine due to corrosion.
http://www.wellcraftv20.com/gallery/view_photo.php?set_albumName=album16&id=P7300409
http://www.wellcraftv20.com/gallery/view_photo.php?set_albumName=album16&id=P7300411

Good luck and let us know what you find.

[whale]

I have two empty 5 gallon jugs in my shed if you need them to try and save some of the gas.

Carl

Thanks.....I removed about 20 gallons with some going in my truck and the rest in my 2 cans.

[whale]

With the cover off there is no sign of a problem on the top of the tank. I pulled out the round storage compartment (potential livewell) right by the transom so I could see a large area of the bilge. I dried it out and could see a slow steady stream coming from the forward part of the boat. The stream appears to be gas.

I have started the process of removing the tank but it seems like it is going to be a major P.I.A. The foam is all in good condition and after a couple hours of cutting it out along the sides it won't budge. UGH

Pics will follow eventually.....

[tsubaki]

A couple of members removed their belly tanks and begged for advise on removal. From what I remember there was no trick or easy way to remove the tank.
I don't think a ****hook (sensored)(Shinook)would make it easier. Sorry :(

[macojoe]

one trick was to take some wire and start at one end of the tank and use it like a saw wire, moveing back and fourth along the bottom to cut the bottom foam that is holding the tank in.

But you are right they are all PIA and they all come out different!!
bars and 2x4 to pry them out, some come out in pieces, and the wire way, with a ton more options!

Good Luck!

[Carl]

I used an old dull cross cut wood saw (hand saw) It was able to be stabbed into the foam and I could cut large wedges out until I got close to the tank and / or the bilge. Then it was scrapers and putty knives all the way.

Kevin,

I am away tomorrow - but I will be back by Friday afternoon. Give a shout if you need help.

Carl

[Carl]

One more thing - seal up the hose connections because there will be foam pieces everywhere and you don't want that stuff getting in the fuel hoses.

here are some of my before and after pics:
http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s202/panaru20/Panaru_0005.jpg

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s202/panaru20/Panaru_0002.jpg

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s202/panaru20/Panaru_0004.jpg

Carl

[whale]

I used an old dull cross cut wood saw (hand saw) It was able to be stabbed into the foam and I could cut large wedges out until I got close to the tank and / or the bilge. *Then it was scrapers and putty knives all the way. *

Kevin,

I am away tomorrow - but I will be back by Friday afternoon. *Give a shout if you need help.

Carl

Thanks.....I'm away also....back Saturday. I'll likely be out there for a couple hours in the afternoon.

[willy]

Hey Kev sorry to hear about the problem with the gas, just saw this post today.
I had an odor of gas a couple of times with the boat after I filled it up at a gas station and drove it on a trailer for an hour to get home. I did not like that and got out and inspected everything and talked to a few guys here who had experienced the same and I figured it was to much expansion in the tank.
I never had liquid gas in the bildge though and it was always dry there and when I had opened everything up to look thru the inspection ports.
If you are finding gas in the bildge though that is a serious leak and the tank has to be pulled immediatly.

** IMPORTANT***
First open all vents etc and ventilate and do it away from your house and people in general. Reach in with wire cutters by the battery and clip off the connection for the bildge pump clip the wires off. Then flush the bildge with running water from a hose while venting. When you are sure there is no fumes and liquid gas to ignite remove the batteries with help one at a time and get them away from the boat.
The reason you clip the wires is to prevent the pump from cycling and possibly causing a spark when you flush it out.

Beware of static electricity from you tools etc. If you are leaking like you said then that foam will be soaking it up and stinking to high h@ll, it will retain enough to cause an explosion if ignited from a spark

Please do not do any work on that boat or leave it sitting with the batteries in there, with fuel in the foam and bildge it is literally a bomb.

I know you are a smart fellow and probably know these things but I felt I had to say it. And I am sorry you are having the problem with her, she is getting older and I guess it had to happen soon or a later especially with these new fuel additives.
I also apologize for not seeing this sooner but have not seen this repair thread for a long time.
Give a call if there is anything I could do to help, if you want I could take a ride up on one of my days off and help you pull that tank I know it is a bear of a job.
Willy

[msbhammer]

Parishht mentioned something about a spray that disolved the foam. ???
Mulv. yanked his tank out as well.

[bradford]

I cut mine out with a pressure washer--made quick work of the foam and a giant mess. ;D

[whale]

Willy...don't sweat it. It was first noticed on the final trip of the season so obviously it is a recent issue. From what I can see on the top and peeking in the tank overall it is in really good shape. I am guessing there is a single spot on the bottom or one of the seams. So far the foam is all bone dry so it seems it is at the very bottom.

I had no time today to do anything with it but should get at her tomorrow.

[wpearch]

hay Willy you sound like a smoke eater not a donut eater their

[willy]

Our fire dept never lost a foundation ::)

I along with every other cop I know has put out more fires in a month than the FD's did in a year. We get there first and usually by a big margin. Generally speaking if the cop on the scene did not get there in time well at least you can reuse the foundation.
I have also seen what BOOM looks and sounds like more times than I like to remember

[willy]

And Kev my offer still stands, if you need a hand one day pulling that tank your only a few hours away, besides I don't have any stashes in Conneticut ;D

[whatknot]

I hope this link gets you to my 60 gallon tank schematic.
If not, search for Fuel Tank Specs Directory posted by whatknot (me). Also posted is manufacturers name and address. Break the foam to tank seal and then go to a marina. Tie the tank off and pull it out with the lift. Get beer and a smoke. good luck

Tank specs are at the top of the page.

http://www.wellcraftv20.com/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.cgi?board=Repairs;action=display;num=11874590 58;start=6#6

[Stillrunning]

I filled up a few years ago and when I got home I notice the smell of gas. I went to the boats plug and had a small trickle of gas comming out. I checked all hoses and anything else and came to the conclusion my tank was leaking. I took a seradded (spelling) knife and cut between the tank and foam and then could pop the tank out. Now after sucking out 60 gallons of gas and removing the tank I could not find a single leak so back to the boat I went. Come to find out that my vent was cracked and when I added the oil it overflowed the tank and instead of coming out of the vent it leaked down into the boat. At first glance it looked just fine but when I reached up to check the fill hose I hit the vent line and saw it moving. My point is to check things out real good before tearing out the tank. Atleast I did get to clean out the tank and give it a freash coat of paint adding maybe a few years to its life.

[wpearch]

something else to check your hoses the older hose get eaten by the ethanol they put in the gas it a good idea to replace all but the fuel fill at least

[whale]

I checked all the hoses and no apparent leaks. Also, with about 20 gallons in the tank and the supply valve turned off at the tank I found about 1/2-1 gallon of gas in the bilge the next day. Seems to me if there was a problem with any hose from the tank back it would stop the leak if the valve is closed. Also, if the tank is only 1/3 full then the fill and vent would not be the problem. They were also easy for me to inspect and appear OK. I haven't had time to do any work on it lately......I hate that it gets dark before 5 pm. Maybe this weekend....

[willy]

It is not the hoses Kev, Fillet had replaced them prior to my purchase, I did not check all of them but they looked pretty new. Not sure about the vent hose though, a leak or crack as said previously could be what I smelled when I filled it and drove home.
I beleive you are right about the leak when containing only a third of a tank, that would be a breakdown in the metal somewhere I would think.

[bradford]

It goes without saying, BE CAREFUL!!! The fumes are worse than the gas itself. One spark and you might not need any help removing the tank! :o :o :o

[Skools Out]

my tank did the same in my 21 but found the holes took tank out drained and filled with water too the top till it was totally busting at the seams thenfound the minor leak at a bad weld fixed and good to go. they do make a product that is guarrantted to work on boat tanks to fix leaks for ever.

[2ndchance]

Whale,
Do yourself a favor, pull the tank and do a thorough inspection. The tank on my 1980 V was foamed in and had what I thouht was minor pitting from water being held agianst the tank by the foam was actually major pitting. I started noticing a slight gas smell in the late summer that seemed to get worse over time. I pulled the tank again :( and power wire brushed the entire tank. I found 3 leaks in the tank without even pressure testing (I left 5 gallons of gas in the tank) and all I did was clean the corrosion from the pits. I rolled the tank so that the gas would be against any suspect areas. There are several products available to patch the tank as a stop gap measure if you can't swing a new one right now. I used Marine Tex epoxy and after grinding out every area that was suspect I patched them with the product. It won't pretty but the tank is below deck anyway and it does not leak :). I have started a new tank fund and will replace it in the spring I hope. As a safty note, use a brass wite wheel if you power wire brush your tank, sparks are not a good thing around a fuel tank ;D.

[whale]

Well, after several hours of cutting foam the tank still will not move at all. I am trying to see if I can get a wire under it....I like that idea but I can't get the wire underneath. I broke out the pressure washer but I just managed to make a big mess. I think my 2300 psi washer is not enough power to really blast out the foam. The space around the tank is so tight it is very difficult to get anywhere. I'm thinking I need to customize some kind of tool that will allow me to cut a bit of foam from the underneath and thereby get the wire under it. Anyway, a couple pics from the other weekend....

http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s106/whalenkm/PICT4588.jpg

The fuel gauge float is a tad rusted on.....

http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s106/whalenkm/PICT4587.jpg

Siphoning out the gas from the tank..

http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s106/whalenkm/PICT4586.jpg

[msbhammer]

Think I posted it before, but I thought Parissht said that there is something you can spray on the foam that will disolve it. Other then that, get out a 10 pound digging bar and start tearing it out. Keep us posted. ;)

[Skools Out]

this will work i know i've got it in a street rod tank

http://www.stoprust.net/Fuel-System-p-1-c-8.html


http://www.stoprust.net/images/P/HDCTRK_HvyDutyCycleTankKit_300300.gif

[THEFERMANATOR]

Is that the TEFLON coating there SKOOLZ?

[Skools Out]

all i can say is it works and saves money in the long run

here's the home website

http://www.por15.com/

[parishht]

Try spraying the foam with acetone,
same stuff used in nail polish remover.

I was using some of my wife's to clean some electronics
and made the mistake of putting it in a foam coffee cup,
what a mess.

[Carl]

Kevin,

Try the hand saw trick. Firmly, but gently push it in and follow the contour of the tank. Short up and down strokes until you get all the way around it. It may loosen up enough foam to get the tank out.


Carl

[whale]

I have used all manners of saws......my electric knife......drywall saw, scrapers etc etc.....ugh

[macojoe]

you can only get so much of the foam before you have to start prying it out!!

Some one here tryed lifting it out on a chain fall till the boat started to lift and then it poped right out.

Others had to pry from all sides till they got them out.

So I guess what I am trying to say its time to use the mucsle! and if its leaking then who cares its going to get ruined any way!

[Skools Out]

if you can dig a hole out to get a couple crowbars under each end and then 2 or you pry id out it will come trust me i've pulled 5 or 6 now one was a 250 gallon in an older Sea Ox.

[whale]

I just don't see how I can pry it out without tearing up the deck. I have 1/2 an inch on the sides to work with. There is no room for a pry bar to get down there.....

As a last resort I will cut the tank but I really would like to see what is underneath before destroying it.....

[Skools Out]

lay a 1 x 6 on the edge of the deck so you don't pry against the deck.

[garagenc]

Why can't you use a wire and cut the tank out from the foam using the wire as a saw?

[mushman]

That looks like a real pain in the arse.I hope I don't run into that problem soon.
I did smell gas in the bilge area when I was pumping my primer bulb a million times to get the gas out of my tank a few weeks ago.It took like an hour to get 10 gallons out.
I haven't smelled any since,I hope it was a fluke or something.
The wire saw trick seems like it should work if you can get to the belly of the tank.

[wpearch]

DO NOT CUT THE TANK just know way to make it safe

[msbhammer]

Just light a match, it will come out real quick. ;D

[whale]

DO NOT CUT THE TANK just know way to make it safe

Filling the tank with water would displace any and all gas fumes ensuring there is nothing to explode. Gasoline vapor would be forced from the tank....

The wire thing sounds good to me also but getting to the belly of the tank has proven difficult. It is not rectangular (see whatknots link to his spec diagram and the shape of the tank) so getting underneath it will be tough with a wire.

[bradford]

After I THOROUGHLY flushed my old tank out with water I cut a couple holes on each side with a hole saw. I then strung a chain through the holes. I placed two 4x4 timbers across the gunnels side by side with a floor jack on top of the timbers. I then shackeled the chains together across the floor jack and popped the tank out by pumping the jack slowly. It's a SNUG fit coming out so take your time so you don't crack your deck like I did.

[msbhammer]

Bradford has the plan down. ;)

[Sean]

Good luck Whale, sounds like a fun project you got on your hands :P

[whale]

Well, the weather was pretty warm today so I decided to have a crack at the tank again. I got a hand saw and worked around the edges to seperate the foam from the tank as much as I could. Then, I took a 4X4 and layed it across the gunwales and attached a ratchet tie-down to it and the tank. I started ratcheting and after it it tightened up it took a few more clicks and she released. I cranked the tank up quite a ways but the fit is so tight I could not get the tank out. The opening is actually a bit smaller than the tank and it would not come out enough on one end to get it out. I enlisted the help of my neighbor, Carl, and after some deliberation we had another go and actually got to within about an inch of the bottom of the tank. At that point we found the culprit....a while on the stern end in the center about big enough to put my finger in. Carl took my crow bar and pounded it the whole and used a block of wood on the deck for leverage. Then I pounded on the end of the tank with a 3 pound hammer and slowly she came up until we were able to get the end out. After that, of course, it slid right out. Thanks for all the advice, and thanks to Carl for lending a hand. Now, the quest for a new tank begins.

Here come the pictures!!!!

Entrance to my V20 cave....
http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s106/whalenkm/PICT4610.jpg

My setup
http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s106/whalenkm/PICT4611.jpg

Here she goes
http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s106/whalenkm/PICT4613.jpg

The culprit
http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s106/whalenkm/PICT4615.jpg
MG]

[whale]

The end of the tank after we beat up on it
http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s106/whalenkm/PICT4617.jpg

The aftermath....
http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s106/whalenkm/PICT4616.jpg

[mushman]

Wow that is a real tight fit.Was that hole at the bottom the culprit?,it seems kind of big.Looks like you and your buddy had a fun afternoon.
Thoose are really nice rod holders did the boat come like that or are they aftermarket?.Mine are starting to fall apart and yours look really nice.
Good luck on your quest for a tank.
Nice job.

[Carl]

Kevin gets the credit for being in there all afternoon. I was only there about a 1/2 hour. Glad we got it out.

Carl

[macojoe]

I hope I never have to get mine out!! Its nall of 6 feet long and hold 115 gal!!

Good Job, now clean it out and set the new one in, its time to fish!!

[whale]

I hope I never have to get mine out!! Its nall of 6 feet long and hold 115 gal!!

Good Job, now clean it out and set the new one in, its time to fish!!

The "new one" is out there somewhere waiting for me to find it. I found this one for $129 ($212 after shipping) but it would mean a drop to 40 gallons.

http://www.greatlakesskipper.com/productdetail.cfm?CatID=SS303&ProductID=5125

It is tough to find a tank to fit near these dimensions. (44.74L X 31W X 11.5D). All of the 50-60 gallon tanks are longer (50+ inches).

[Carl]

Kevin,

This may too tight a fit, - It is 50 gallons.

http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|311|302335|7364|939818|940755&id=940635


Carl

[whale]

Kevin,

This may too tight a fit, - It is 50 gallons.

http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|311|302335|7364|939818|940755&id=940635


Carl

Too tall.....looks like an irregular shape. It is 22" tall though and the current is only 11.5

Here is a possible.....Ocean Link is in Portsmouth RI. $335 for 50 gallon

http://www.oceanlinkinc.com/tanks/fshowprod.asp?ID=FOLT5007M

[Carl]

That looks like it will fit nice.

There is also a guy in NJ that will make a custom tank to your unique dimensions. You just send him a drawing. He advertises in "The Fisherman" magazine. I can send you the details tonight.

Carl

[bradford]

Whale, If I were you I wouldn't drop down to 40 gallons. I spent about 500 bucks and had a custom tank built. It's three times as thick as the factory tank so hopefully it will be the last one my V20 needs. I also did a better install job than the can of expanding foam. I glued 12 2X4's to the hull with 5200 with a wide channel between them in the bottom of the bilge. I then covered the tops of the 2X4's with 5200 and set the tank on top. I hope I never have to remove it because it probably won't want to come out! The 2X4's are pressure treated and the tank has plenty of room around it to allow water to drain away and breathe. When washing down the boat I pop the deck plates off and can rinse any saltwater or other crud off the tank. Just my 2 cents !

[C YENSEN]

glad you finally got her out

[Mulv80]

The first tank I removed I used a prybar to chip away the foam and then hoisted the tank out with a car jack and a chain. The tank sticks to the foam on the bottom and breaking that seal is really tough. I can remember trying to crank it out with a board across the gunnel and watching the sides of my liner flex. The second one I filled with water and cut with a battery operated reciprocating saw and yanked it out with a come along strapped to a tree branch. Both times it was a pain. I'm glad to see you got yours out safely.

[bradford]

My bilge stunk like an open sewer after I pulled the factory tank out. Must have been years worth of bilge crud and fish slime down there.

[Carl]

Here is the link to the custom tank mfg in New Jersey.

http://www.speedytanks.com/about/index.html

Carl

[willy]

Holy Crap Kev:confused::confused:
Do you think it broke apart while getting jostled out or was it like that before. I cannot believe that hole did not let gas go all over the bildge

[whale]

Holy Crap Kev:confused::confused:
Do you think it broke apart while getting jostled out or was it like that before. I cannot believe that hole did not let gas go all over the bildge

Willy....in the first picture of the hole, it shows it as it was before we stuck the crowbar in the hole and beat up on the tank. It was big enough for my pinky finger to fit in. The reason the tank did not just empty out was that there was foam covering the hole so that it would only seep out slowly into the foam. The foam at that end of the tank and below was gas soaked but at the forward end of the tank and along the sides it was dry. There were a couple of other spots that had some signs of corrosion (all on that end) but had not broken through yet.

Based on the the quotes I have so far for $700+ for a custom aluminum tank I am thinking a plastic tank that is a bit smaller doesn't sound so bad!

[bradford]

My old tank had two fist sized holes in it as well as a bunch of smaller ones. I couldn't believe it.

[whale]

My coworker told me it is known as "poultice corrosion". Here is an excerpt from this site discussing it:

http://ammtiac.alionscience.com/pdf/2005MaterialEASE31.pdf

Crevice Corrosion
Crevice corrosion occurs as a result of water or other liquids getting
trapped in localized stagnant areas creating an enclosed corrosive
environment. This commonly occurs under fasteners,
gaskets, washers and in joints or in other components with small
gaps. Crevice corrosion can also occur under debris built-up on
surfaces, sometimes referred to as “poultice corrosion.” Poultice
corrosion can be quite severe, due to a gradually increasing acidity
in the crevice area.
Several factors including crevice gap width, depth, and the
surface ratios of materials affect the severity or rate of crevice
corrosion. Tighter gaps, for example, have been known to
increase the rate of crevice corrosion of stainless steels in chloride
environments. The larger crevice depth and greater surface
area of metals will generally increase the rate of corrosion.
Materials typically susceptible to crevice corrosion include
aluminum alloys and stainless steels. Titanium alloys normally
have good resistance to crevice corrosion. However, they may
become susceptible in elevated temperature and acidic environments
containing chlorides. Copper alloys can also experience
crevice corrosion in seawater environments.
To protect against problems with crevice corrosion, systems
should be designed to minimize areas likely to trap moisture, other
liquids, or debris. For example, welded joints can be used instead
of fastened joints to eliminate a possible crevice. Where crevices
are unavoidable, metals with a greater resistance to crevice corrosion
in the intended environment should be selected. Avoid the use
of hydrophilic materials (strong affinity for water) in fastening
systems and gaskets. Crevice areas should be sealed to prevent the
ingress of water. Also, a regular cleaning schedule should be
implemented to remove any debris build up. Table 3 provides a
brief list of guidelines that can help minimize crevice corrosion.

[Geekie1]

Hi Whale,

I spent alot of time looking for a ready made plastic belly tank and didn't find any of them to be satisfactory. What I found was that the angle of the V20 deep V hull was about 22 degrees and all of the available ready made plastic belly tanks had a bottom angle of about 13 - 15 degrees. The ready made plastic belly tanks were Todd or Moeller. The angle of the tanks belly made it that the largest ready made tank that would fit below the floor was 29 gallons. All of the larger belly tanks would have the top of the tank above the floor. How I checked that was by getting the exact dimensions and angles of available replacement tanks and the exact dimensions and angles of the tank well in my V and did an installation simulation on my computer.

Schools suggestion about tank sealer is I think a good one. I called Por 15 about their sealer and found out that their sealer was ethanol proof. They guaranteed that if the tank was prepared properly internally (cleaning & etching) the sealer would permanently adhere to the inside of the tank and the tank would not be affected by ethanol. Por 15's website has full instructions as to how you clean, etch, and seal fuel tanks. The sealer is a tried and true process and has been used in antique car restoration for years. Where do you buy a new exact replacement gas tank for a 1910 Franklin?? Another company that puts out a similar product is KBS Coatings. The cost to fix holes in the aluminum tank and to clean, etch and seal it with sealer would be about $150.

Just my $.02

Geek

http://www.kbs-coatings.com/index.aspx?AFID=7
http://www.stoprust.net/Fuel-System-p-1-c-8.html

[Pipe_Dream]

Whale, I had a plastic tank custom built in '04. Used the exact dimensions of the original tank as supplied by Florida Marine Tanks (who make or made aluminum tanks), which were 44" L x 31" W x 11" H (I left out the fractions). Sent them to Triple "M" Plastic Products in Maine, got a quote and had them build it. Here's a pic of it:
http://www.wellcraftv20.com/gallery/view_photo.php?set_albumName=album16&id=P9240525_001

The tank, including a fuel gauge sending unit, was just under $500 not including shipping. I still have the drawings, if you want I can fax them to you, or try to e-mail them if I can figure out how to use my boss' scanner. ;)

[Monkey Butler]

Whale, I had a plastic tank custom built in '04. Used the exact dimensions of the original tank as supplied by Florida Marine Tanks (who make or made aluminum tanks), which were 44" L x 31" W x 11" H (I left out the fractions). Sent them to Triple "M" Plastic Products in Maine, got a quote and had them build it. Here's a pic of it:
http://www.wellcraftv20.com/gallery/view_photo.php?set_albumName=album16&id=P9240525_001

The tank, including a fuel gauge sending unit, was just under $500 not including shipping. I still have the drawings, if you want I can fax them to you, or try to e-mail them if I can figure out how to use my boss' scanner. ;)

That is PLASTIC? Wow, looks good! Besides my transom I can't think of any other item that I worry about more besides the gas tank. Either one could ruin your day.

[randlemanboater]

These guys have one that will fit perfectly, but they won't sell it to you.

They only sell to boat manufacturers.

http://www.incaproducts.com/site/fueltanks_flatvbottom.aspx

[whale]

These guys have one that will fit perfectly, but they won't sell it to you.

They only sell to boat manufacturers.

http://www.incaproducts.com/site/fueltanks_flatvbottom.aspx

Yeah, I have been on the INCA site.....got they impression they were wholesale only. I did find a 40 gallon INCA tank with the proper deadrise on Ebay from Great Lakes Skipper. If I can convince myself to go for 40 gallons this is a pretty good deal.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BOAT-GAS-TANK-40-GAL-gas-tanks-fuel-tanks-diesel-tanks_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1638Q2em118QQcate goryZ31286QQihZ011QQitemZ320189744565QQrdZ1QQsspag enameZWD1V

[macojoe]

Fly has his for sale again, ebay did not work out Ck for sale section, he will help with ship if you can find some one that will take it?

[randlemanboater]

Yeah, I have been on the INCA site.....got they impression they were wholesale only. I did find a 40 gallon INCA tank with the proper deadrise on Ebay from Great Lakes Skipper. If I can convince myself to go for 40 gallons this is a pretty good deal.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BOAT-GAS-TANK-40-GAL-gas-tanks-fuel-tanks-diesel-tanks_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1638Q2em118QQcate goryZ31286QQihZ011QQitemZ320189744565QQrdZ1QQsspag enameZWD1V


I can tell you that the 40 gal Inca fits perfectly, thats what I have. Got mine from Flounder Pounder Marine.

[whale]

Well, after much thought I decided to go with the 40 gallon INCA tank that is on Ebay. I really never go far from my marina....10 miles at most. Considering the cost was so much less ($129 plus $60 shipping) it was hard to justify the hundreds extra for 20 more gallons that I really don't need. I ordered it and it arrived last week. Just waiting for some warm weather to install. Since it is shorter than the original I need to figure out how to stabilize it to keep it from moving around. Suggestions?

I also bought a replacement voltage gauge from the same seller for 10 bucks. The existing gauge was off such that when powered off (and disconnected) it read about 12 volts and when power was on it pegged to the max. The new one is identical and works fine.

Last season, none of the 4 small gauges worked (tach worked and warning alarms in it were fine) so my goal is to have all of them working. Some may consider some of them useless but since they are they I'd like to have them functioning. The tilt/trim gauge never moved and I found the arm on the sender was stuck down. After a few manual actuations, it was working fine and the gauge works. The water pressure gauge was not working at all....I am about to get one for cheap on Ebay. Last will be the fuel gauge. Maybe with a new sender that came with the tank, the gauge will work???

I'll post pics when I do the new tank install.

[macojoe]

That will be fine!!

If it was me, I would measure from the bulk head to were the tank goes and add a new bulk head and you will have the size you need to make it nice and tight!

[Bygracealone]

How much room you got? Can you fit another much smaller tank in there beside the 40?

[whale]

That will be fine!!

If it was me, I would measure from the bulk head to were the tank goes and add a new bulk head and you will have the size you need to make it nice and tight!

OK, what are the basics steps involved here? I assume some fiberglass work? That would be a first for me.

A small tank is possible but maybe not too big. Should be about a foot of space length-wise and same width and height as the 40 gallon INCA tank.

[Carl]

Kevin,

I have the little roller thingy you can borrow. I can show you the basics - especially below decks where nobody can see it. I have not done any gelcoat yet, but I might give a try this spring to fix the deck.

Carl

[fishingwithblue]

Well, after much thought I decided to go with the 40 gallon INCA tank that is on Ebay. I really never go far from my marina....10 miles at most. Considering the cost was so much less ($129 plus $60 shipping) it was hard to justify the hundreds extra for 20 more gallons that I really don't need. I ordered it and it arrived last week. Just waiting for some warm weather to install. Since it is shorter than the original I need to figure out how to stabilize it to keep it from moving around. Suggestions?

I also bought a replacement voltage gauge from the same seller for 10 bucks. The existing gauge was off such that when powered off (and disconnected) it read about 12 volts and when power was on it pegged to the max. The new one is identical and works fine.

Last season, none of the 4 small gauges worked (tach worked and warning alarms in it were fine) so my goal is to have all of them working. Some may consider some of them useless but since they are they I'd like to have them functioning. The tilt/trim gauge never moved and I found the arm on the sender was stuck down. After a few manual actuations, it was working fine and the gauge works. The water pressure gauge was not working at all....I am about to get one for cheap on Ebay. Last will be the fuel gauge. Maybe with a new sender that came with the tank, the gauge will work???

I'll post pics when I do the new tank install.
Did you ever get to install the INCA 40 tank? I just ordered the same one and wondered what your plan for reinstall was.

[whale]

Did you ever get to install the INCA 40 tank? I just ordered the same one and wondered what your plan for reinstall was.

Yes, I just installed my tank this past weekend. I bought a rubber fatigue mat from Home Depot....borrowed that idea from a post by my neighbor Carl a while back. I then used some rubber hose cut into short lengths to wedge in along the sides Frankly just doing that made it pretty tight and it seemed like it would not move, but......I used some wood similar to what was originally on top of the tank to hold it down from the top and then I put on on the bow end. I left the gap at the bow end of the tank. I will try and post a picture this weekend.

For the removal, it was TOUGH. I spent much time cutting foam away but found the best tool was a long flexible handsaw. Then I set up a 4X4 across the gunwales and used a ratcheting tiedown to break the tank free from the foam (see pics earlier in this thread). Like you mentioned in your other post, the tank actually is slightly longer than the hole. I could lift one end most of the way (this is shown in the pics) out but about an inch would not clear. My neighbor helped and with a crowbar and 3 lb hammer we gradually got it to pop out.