Trailer dealers that ship?? [Archive] - Wellcraft V20 Community

rockinrebel

10-18-2005, 08:55 PM

Hi everybody,
I'm new to WellcraftV20.com but not to the V20. I've had a 1983 V20 since 1985. Repowered in 2000 with a Yamaha 175. I've always kept the boat on a dry rack until a year and a half ago (it's now in the water). Now I'm ready to kep the boat on a trailer.
Question 1: Recommendations on an exact model of trailer.
Question 2: Cheapest place to buy one.
I live in Savannah, Georgia. The boat will be mostly stored on the trailer at a local marina. No long hauls.
I really appreciate any guidance.
Chuck

willy

10-18-2005, 09:25 PM

Hey rock welcome, listen I don't know any particular model #s but will suggest a couple of things, galvanized steel DUAL AXLE trailer from any of the major manufactures in you neck of the Piney Woods

Skools Out

10-18-2005, 11:57 PM

go with Aluminum Tandum.

cheapest place

http://www.boattrailers.org/
same guy

http://www.fishingworld.com/vDealers/NC/OuterBanksBoatHarbor/Default.tmpl

willy

10-19-2005, 12:52 AM

Hey Lord Skools why aluminum, the galvanized up here seem to hold up longer, lot of cracked welds and broken cast aluminum parts on them trailers I hear guys complain all the time ???

mmiklosz

10-19-2005, 01:15 AM

make sure you also get a spare tire.

Skools Out

10-19-2005, 01:31 AM

lighter towing and gives better fuel mileage. plus you'll never see Aluminum Rust lol.

reelapeelin

10-19-2005, 09:19 AM

Due to flotation in tires, alum's light weight, saltwater bouyancy and currents, an alum trailer will DRIFT in certain conditions... ;)...

rockin'...welcome to da board... :D...V20 since 1985?...we welcome the knowledge and experience you've picked up over 20 years...post some pics of your boat...matters not what shape she's in...we just wanna see... a bunch of curious old pharts that way... ;)...

I normally recommend tandem axels and brakes, but if your routine over 20 yrs of boating allows only a short haul from storge location to ramp, you can get by w/single axel and no brakes...wish I were that lucky... ;D...

C YENSEN

10-19-2005, 10:12 AM

well i only trailer mine a distance of 4 miles from the house to the ramp and i have a 1991 Venture Single Axle. Does Fine, but it you will be trailering all the time and putting her in and out of the water all the time, I suggest full rollers. ;)

rockinrebel

10-19-2005, 10:32 AM

I really appreciate all the help. Yep, my Dad and I bought the V20 back in 1985. Have always loved it. Nothing like the feeling of that deep V plowing into a swell and seeing the water part like the Red Sea.

Pipe_Dream

10-19-2005, 10:37 AM

Hey Rebel, I can tell you that I got a much better deal on a used one than new, but I had to drive to St. Pete to pick it up. Of course, that was like 10 years ago . . . ::)

shicks007

10-19-2005, 11:55 AM

Check this out. A buddy of mine ordered one of these trailers. Seems to be pretty well built and they delivered it to VA.

http://www.nextrailofamerica.com/

reelapeelin

10-20-2005, 09:36 AM

WOW!!...best prices on trailers I EVER saw!!...gonna be hard to beat 'em ;) ;D...

willy

10-20-2005, 01:16 PM

Thats a great price for a dual axle ;) but it is a bunk trailer and I want to ask consensus question on which you guys prefer the bunk or roller roll on trailer

reelapeelin

10-20-2005, 11:16 PM

Willy, I never had a roller trailer...they concern me some as it's SO easy for the boat to roll off...just me; I need something a little more ''forgiving''...bunks have been great for V20 and last few boats... ;)...

Franco

10-20-2005, 11:52 PM

IMHO - The contact area where the roller actually support the boat are very small compared to the contact area on a bunk. Bunks have more friction to overcome when loading and unloading but support the boat better. Rolers are kinda like standing on a bed of nails. I'd worry about damaging the boat while towing. Bunks flex some, seems to me they would be more forgiving. Properly adjusted bunks shouldn't be that hard to load and unload. Plus compare the cost to replacing 2 bunks to how ever many rollers on a roller trailer.

Skools Out

10-21-2005, 12:39 AM

i've had several of both trailers BUY BUNKS ONLY lol
Rollers will scar the bottom of your boat and leave nice black lines on it unless you like to spend and buy the yellow ones then you can replace them about every 3 to 4 yrs due to cracking.

PS

"ROLLERS SUCK"

willy

10-21-2005, 01:07 AM

Interesting ;) appreciate the advise, always thought the bunk would support better, pretty obvious actually but never heard of rollers damaging hull other than what Lord Skools said about marking, that I've seen first hand. But Ive had three bunk trailers and now am on my second roller trailer. Not by choice but because they came with boat. The diffrence in launching and especially loading is substantial at least for me especially since about half the time I go out I'm by myself or might as well be with one of my kids or a super model(useless) 8)

Skools Out

10-21-2005, 01:49 AM

just take off the rollers and make your own set of treated runners out of wood not a hard change over except on Long Brand roller trailers.

willy

10-21-2005, 02:34 AM

how do you just chang them over skools, are'nt the mounting points diffrent

Airslot

10-21-2005, 10:31 AM

I'll be the odd man out and say that I prefer a roller triailer for my V-20. Launch and load is sooo easy once you get a routine for either type. While the bunks do support better, on my roller trailer you can grab the rollers and wiggle them a bit with the boat on them. 4500 lbs spread across 32 rollers comes out to 140 lbs per contact point. If the boat can't handle that I don't want it.

Airslot

groover

10-21-2005, 07:54 PM

I have had a full roller trailer under my '88 model since it was new and don't have any indentions or roller marks. The key is to get plenty of rollers. Many manufactures skimp on them. I bought the best trailer I could find and then added a few more rollers just for kicks. I would recommend this trailer(Holesclaw) but they went out of business 10 years ago. The trailers were functional and most people want pretty.

I use my rollers too. I just back the trailer down near the water and roll the boat off. Then I use an electric winch to pull her back on. Never get the trailer wet. It is a little extra work but my trailer is 17 years old and has very little rust and I have never had any bearing problems. I have never seen a ramp that I could not launch at and by keeping my drive tires far from the water I have never spun a tire pulling out.

willy

10-21-2005, 09:21 PM

I have the rollers also but I still have to back trailer well into the water to load it especially

willy

10-21-2005, 09:24 PM

I will usually bow to Lord Skools opinion on such matters and I have to replace the rollers and add some rollers on mine so I want to know more about why you prefer bunks and what will I have to do to change over to bunks. If you please Mr. Skools

reelapeelin

10-21-2005, 10:23 PM

Willy, Phester and Groover said it above...it's what you become accustomed to...if you already got rollers and they are 90% or better in good shape, then I'd repair...but if I had lots of rollers in need of replacin', I go bunks faster than grease thru a goose... ;) ;D...

willy

10-21-2005, 10:35 PM

Why RAP, the bunk trailers, at least the ones I've had you have to dunk that whole trailer each time you launch and recover, don't that wear the h@ll out of the lights bunks bearings etc

Skools Out

10-21-2005, 10:56 PM

hey willy just hose pipe the bunks so you can put someone in the boat and back down the ramp and just as the boat enters the water nail the brakes and the boat will slide right off into the water just like it's on grease.

I've changed several over to bunks. just take the outter rollers off and the make your bunks long enough to work with your boat and then mount with bunk brackets on the trailers cross braces.

willy

10-21-2005, 11:00 PM

I'm slow Skools so what do ya mean hose pipes ???

Skools Out

10-21-2005, 11:04 PM

your home water hose and wet the bunks before you launch. i always crank my motor before i go to the ramp then wet the bunks or rollers too. then it unloads very easy. Plus it starts right up too lol.

willy

10-21-2005, 11:09 PM

;)

phester

10-21-2005, 11:20 PM

I do the same thing too Skools, that is, start 'er up b4 I get to the ramp. Dunk it in,touch the key, park the truck,jump in the boat and go. I've seen countless weekend boaters take 20 mins. to launch, and then jump in their boat, back out into a current that can be ripping...STALL....then ...SMASH...then he yells at his kids or wife

chumbucket

10-21-2005, 11:23 PM

I've had both roller and bunk trailers over the years. Roller trailers are definately nice for the ease of loading and launching, but a heck of a lot more maintenance and cost over bunks. Anything much bigger than a V20, I'd probably go roller. btw; I don't know about youz guys, but I've always had to dunk my trailers the same amount wether roller or bunk. With a bunk trailer, I've found that you back them in until the fender is sticking out of the water approximately 3" and you're good to go every time. Every boat is slightly different though and after a few trips you'll soon learn the sweet spot. Then mark the front of the fender or upright guide posts with reflective tape at the waterline. That way, if you're with someone else and they back down the trailer for you, just tell them to back it down to the tape line. The reflective tape will help out at night for the darkness fishing trips. Most of the local ramps around here do not allow power loading, but if there's no one on duty, I'll periodically do it just to save time. Just drive it up on to within 12" or so, leave it in forward gear with slight power, go up and hook the strap, shut it down, then winch the last little bit. ;)

reelapeelin

10-23-2005, 09:46 PM

Don't allow power loading?... ???...CB, tell me it ain't so... ::)...that's the ONLY way boats get loaded down here... :)...

Mac_Attack

10-23-2005, 10:03 PM

I ramp I use up here allows power loading. *CB I like the idea of using reflective tape. *Thanks! *Bill Mc ;D

chumbucket

10-23-2005, 10:13 PM

Most around here that are staffed with a town or Harbormaster personnel don't allow it. It eventually erodes the sand at the end of the ramp, then people end up getting their trailer stuck at low tides. ::)

ericbh1

10-23-2005, 10:29 PM

I've never used a bunk trailer, but I'm pretty confident that rollers won't do much damage. Been sitting on the trailer for 20 winters (that's mid oct-early june, and a foot or two of snow on the tarp) without any noticable damage. On power loadings, I'd just recommend that you don't pretend you're James Bond. I once watched a smart man get confused about his identity, misjudge the current, and ended up parking his boat next to his truck on dry concrete ramp. I think the trick is to keep it under 30 mph.

willy

10-24-2005, 02:30 AM

Under 30 mph :o :o :o :o :o :o Oh My ;D

macojoe

10-24-2005, 11:21 AM

I have had both, and I have had the some of the worse $hit trailers you see on he road!!

I love my brand new Load-rite!! I think it depends were and how your water is, on what trailer you use.

If you have a small tide change and a flat ramp then bunks work great.
Here on Cape Cod the Tide on the N side can be as mauch as 15 feet different!! Which leaves you on a step ramp with not much water atlow tide.
I see guys with bunks that have to sit and wait 2 hours for the tide to get there boats in.

They really hate it when I back down with all my rollers and just drive it on, lock and load and I am gone!!

I love rollers and would have nothing else! The scary thing for me is that just a small incline my boat wants to fly off the trailer!! I have almost lost it on the ramp before!
Now I wait till I am at the water before anything gets unhooked.
right CB!! :o

willy

10-24-2005, 12:28 PM

You got that right MJ Saw a guy drop his newer Angler CC right on the concrete ramp, did not sound or look good, I was already in sitting on the side dock waiting to go and BANG. The guys told me he used his power winch to pull it right back on but it had major grinding of hull :(

reelapeelin

10-24-2005, 03:53 PM

LONG time ago, I went fishin' w/a PRO-BASS ANGLER...by the end of the day, he was so drunk, when I backed his trailer down (w/my '74 Riviera), I looked up in the mirror and saw him comin' at the trailer so fast, his bow went sideways PAST the winch-stand and stopped 1/2'' from the trunk of my car...never went w/him again... ::)...

willy

10-24-2005, 05:07 PM

Did you have some dampness in the pantess

reelapeelin

10-25-2005, 08:51 AM

More ''lumpy'' than damp... :o...Realy felt bad for the guy...Viet Nam vet, had a BAD leg injury and pain 24/7... :-/...

Blue_Runner

10-25-2005, 03:21 PM

I didn't know there was anything wrong with power-loading?? Actually never heard it called that either.

The activists down this way would fight that law. You see, the erosion at the base of the ramp leaves a mighty fine habitat for the fish ;D

Also, throw in a little current and wind and I ask you this - is there any other way to get it on the trailer (besides power load?)??

offshorega

10-25-2005, 06:57 PM

Hey-I'm a little late on the original topic, but I bought my trailer from nextrail 2 yrs. ago for 1850.00 shipped to Savannah. *I dont' have any negatives about it. *They adjusted the main bunks to the specs of the v20 and I had to assemble the front ones and put on the winch. *Had it taken off at Hogan's with their lift. *
A bud of mine that has the Freedom boat club at Bahia, is about to order one from there too. You might try saving some freight, if they'll do that. doubtful, though.
What's the name of your boat? *

macojoe

10-25-2005, 07:17 PM

I had one guy get drunk on my boat, once !! Now I don't care who you are there is no BOZE on my boat!!

You bring it you leave it in the car, if not I leave you on the ramp!!

Here in Mass. If you get cauht drinking in the boat, CG calls the local PD Then they wait for you at the ramp, arrest you and you lose you lic to drive you car as if you were DUI on the road.