just picked up my first v-20

[brianmccaw]

hello every one. i just picked up an 86 v-20 with an 86 yamaha 200 hp. seems to be in pretty decent shape. the motor runs flawless. it has gps,vhf,ff,full canvas enclosure , cd player, along with a dual axle trailer w/brakes. i paid 4700.00 does that seem like a good deal? wot im hitting 5200 rpms and going 41mph. do they seem like good numbers? seems a little slow to me. p.s.-just dropped it off at storage will post pics later this week

[macojoe]

Welcome to the site!! $4700 good! Now were are the pictures??

[Seacrets]

I run a 150 Merc and I'll hit 44.7 mph at 5500 rpm according to two gps units. *Are you checking speed with the speedo or gps? *Speed should be right on with an increase in rpm's. Congrats on the V20. I've also got an 86. *

[brianmccaw]

thanks for the quick replies. it was a gps that was reading the mph. maco joe- what year is your merc? and what size prop are you spinning mine should be spinning around 5500 i think, correct me if im wrong. what kind of fuel burn numbers can i expect with this setup?

[macojoe]

I have 175 Evinrude, and before that I had 175 Yamaha, and before that it was a I/O 165 hp.

I have run a few different props and the best all around one for me is 15 1/4 X 15
But a lot of guys run 17 pitch here and are happy.

Gas I get like 2 1/2 to 3 mpg which is pretty good for a old 2 stroker!

I can get 40 mph with a light load. I usually cruz around 30 mph.

[Skools Out]

what MJmeans in light load is when he isn't on the boat. *;D

I run a 15 X 17 prop on a 225 Johnson.

[macojoe]

:'(

[Seacrets]

I'm running a four blade stainless 17" pitch. Motor is a 2000 carb engine.

[sfprovyn]

I had an 83 with a 150 Merc black max and the best I ever got was 34 but it had bottom paint..Sounds like you got a good deal and you will not regret buying a v20 but there are some small design flaws in my opinion that you will have to live with. One thing that I would recommend is take a close look at the scupper drains and the through hull fittings etc..they tend to crack along with the hoses and leak but its no big deal to fix . Frank

[reelapeelin]

$4700 for that rig??...ya stold it!! ;) ...welcome to the board ...sounds like ya got a 1st-class V20 there ...w/ a little re-proppin', she'll be a little faster and probably get a little better fuel economy

The 5200 @ 41mph...is that w/ light load, top down and motor trimmed WAY up??...or full enclosure up, motor trimmed DOWN and two fat-girls on the bow in a 25 kt head-wind/ chop?? ??? ?? ...


...oh and what prop ya got on there now?...

[Airslot]

Sounds like ya done good. RAP is right in asking about enclosure being up or down as far as speed and RPM's. Only bad spot on the yam to check would be the shift shaft. The other guys on here can guide you through that one, as I've not owned a Yam at this point.

Airslot

[brianmccaw]

that was traveling with the enclosure off,50 gallons of gas, motor trimmed way up and 2 adults. on the prop which is stainless it says 19m. does that mean its a 19 pitch?

[Airslot]

Sounds about right to me. If I were wanting to change anything, I'd try a 17p prop on her, but I think your doing just fine. ;)

Airslot

[Geekie1]

Early Yamahas (115, 130, 150, 175, 200) from 1984 up to 1993 had steel shift shafts and if used in salt water would corrode and break. The shafts run vertically from the power head down to the lower unit. The 1994 shift shafts were stainless steel and will not corrode in salt water. (Hence "Saltwater Series") On the 150, 175, 200, the early steel shift shafts were replaceable with the 1994 stainless steel shift shafts. A new stainless steel shaft will cost about $70 but to replace them is a real PITA!! It requires pulling the power head. (Broken bolts!!!) Also, the leg length (20" vs 25") is the difference in part #'s and not the horsepower. The part #'s for 150, 175, and 200 are as follows:

20" - Stainless Steel - 6E5-44120-03-00 (1994 PN)
25" - Stainless Steel - 6E5-44120-23-00 (1994 PN)


You will know if you have a steel shift shaft if:

1. - It becomes difficult to shift because the shaft becomes thin from corrosion and torques (twists) making it hard to get in gear.

2. - It breaks, no shift.

3. - When you pull the lower unit to do a water pump rebuild and discover a pile of loose corrosion laying on top of the lower unit male shift spline that the corroded female shift shaft goes into. Sounds kinda perverted but I just guess thats just me!!!

4. - I don't know of a definite way to determine if the shaft is steel or stainless steel by looking at it at the lever end at the power head. It looks the same to me. I discovered my steel shaft by item 3 above.

I hope this helps!!

[brianmccaw]

thanks so much for the info answered every question i could have asked. will ask my mechanic to check it out asap. thanks alot

[Geekie1]

Brian, These engines are great old beasts. Simple, no computers. Not particularly economical, but what big outboard is!! The shift shaft material problem is the only design flaw I know of. The only thing that seems to be a killer of any outboard motor is salt water corrosion and a lack of regular maintenance which causes death for sure. Beware of some Yamaha service techs! There is alot of incompetance out there. This shift shaft problem has caused alot of very expensive alledged lower unit rebuilds that were really just shift shaft replacements. Best of luck with your V20. They are great boats!!!

[Blue_Runner]

I agree, numbers sounds pretty darn good. *

Welcome to the site! These guys can answer any question you will ever have! Guaranteed.

(But I can't guarantee you'll get the right answer ;D)

[macojoe]

before 1994 they were all steel shift shaft and roted just below the space at the lower unit. were you can't see them!

I noticed mine going when the shifter was out of adjustment. fixed and it went out again, after the third adjustment it was broke right at the ramp.

You have to remove the power head to replace this is the only way!!

1994 and up they replaced the shift shaft with a SS one and there is no more problems.

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Another thing, the guy I got my Yamaha told me to always run a 50:1 mix the first tank in the spring, this is for two reasons.
1-- is it will lube up real good after the long winter

2-- It will give you a chance to make sure that your oil pump is working!! Some get gumed up or what ever after sitting for a while.

This spring was the first time I did not listen to that advice!! The results the motor blew a piston!! After careful inspection and a lot of advice from this board and others, It seems that the oil pump was indeed the thing that let go. I went to take it off the motor and it fell apart!