ANCHOR ROLLER/PULPIT 4 CUDDY

[Seakindly]

I want to add some kind of anchor roller/pulpit to my steplift cuddy.

As you all know, there is a sliding center hatch almost to the bow.

What kind of setups do you guys have ???

I am undecided as to whether I should build some kind of platform just above the sliding hatch and mount the anchor roller, chain tensioner and cleat on centerline OR if I should mount the roller centered on the tiny foredeck (with a huge backing plate beneath) and the chain tensioner and cleat off to the side.

I am also concerned with the anchor chain banging up the deck/hatches when underway and wondering how best to prevent this.

Any and all input would be appreciated and a picture is worth a thousand words. :)

[macojoe]

I never Anchor!! I can't rember when the last time I did??
But if I have to, what I do is throw the thing over the side, get it caught, then I hook it to my bow rope and let it go. Leaving the extra rope in the cockpit with me.
When its time to pull the anchor I yank it till I get the bow rope, undo it and pull the anchor right into the cockpit with me.
might just have to use the anchor next week Cod fishing?? Wow that will be different.

[Seakindly]

Thanks MACOJOE.

OK, so far 9 views and only 1 reply. I know CB already discussed this with me on another thread, but what about the rest of you folks?

Cmon, don't hold back. :-X

[Brian_M]

I'm with MACOJOE keep it in the cockpit and use a bow line when you need to anchor. Unless you are in smooth waterr all the time, an anchor is not something you want on a fore deck

[Seakindly]

Thanks Brian M.

The anchor is going to be held in place on the anchor roller ( see setup on cbuzz's center console) very firmly by a chain tensioner. There is a lot to be said for having the anchor in position for immediate deployment from the standpoint of safety as well as convenience of operation and storage.

The walk through cuddy design of the steplift does impose the problems I have described in my first post.
Yesterday, I bought a WINDLINE URM-3 roller and a WINDLINE anchore chain tensioner.

I am still undecided as to my mounting scheme?

I am leaning towards fabricating a platform out of a sheet of heavy aluminum bolted through heavy alum square tube parallel to the foreward sliding hatch. The cleat, tensioner and maybe the roller would be bolted on the centerline of this platform. Does anyone know of a good source for thick (at least 1/4 inch)alum sheet?

Thoughts, ideas, experiences?

[chumbucket]

Seakindly, If I had the cuddy cabin model boat instead of a center console, I'd probably set it up with a roller too. I did this on another boat I owned about 12 years ago and I really was happy with the convenience it offered. Not sure what the roller that you bought looks like, but it helps to get one with the loop over the top above the roller itself. It keeps the anchor and rode on the roller and doesn't allow it to slip off. I can try to get pics of my friends V20 set up with the roller but you'll probably come up with a solution by then. He mounted the roller directly to the bow foredeck, through bolted it with an aluminum backing plate, then mounted the cleat off to one side. It really works out good because you can stand inside the cabin in safety and work the anchor. He covered the drop down space between the cabin cushions with a fiberglass panel strong enough to stand on. And can be lifted out to gain access to storage below. Also, instead of the chain tensioner, he's got some sort of fitting that has a thumb screw with a big knob. The screw, when tightened, goes into a drilled hole in the anchor shank. Once mounted, he just drops the rode and chain into a deck pipe and into the anchor locker below. The thumb screw allows enough room for the hatch to slide all the way forward.
You'll figure it out. Good luck.

[Seakindly]

Thanks CB, that thumb screw fitting sounds interesting.
WINDLINE has a fitting called a locking chock that sounds like what you are describing, although that is not how they recommend it be used. Creative *8).

The roller I bought is the next size larger than the one cbuzz has. I plan to disobey the installation instructions where it says to support 2/3rds of the roller. I am only going to support 1/3 of the roller. Of course I am going to use a huge backing plate beneath the deck, and the roller is rated for up to a 60 # anchor so I figure I'm good to go.

On the 94 steplift there is only 7 inches of foredeck when the hatch is fully open. There already is covers to stand on over the dropdowns in the cabin. Man I was just talkin to Jaysea, we gotta bribe his kid to post some digital pictures of our boats.

CB, WHERE ON THE DECK DOES YOUR BUD HAVE THE ANCHOR CLEAT MOUNTED? Iwould think the farthest back towards the windshield next to the hatch opening would give the best angle.

Where is Bigshrimpin? CB, does he have an anchor roller on his steplift?

Yeah, I'll figure it out, get it all setup, then someone will show me a better way *::).

[chumbucket]

Yeah, the fitting he has looks a lot like part of the locking chock, but just that one piece. I think his cleat is somewhere around mid point on the deck. I know it's not back towards the windshield. I think I'm going fishing with him later this week. Hopefully I'll get a better look at the set up.
No, BS doesn't have a roller set up on his boat.

[jay]

why dont you design a pulpit like some party boats have .you can remove an reinstall with apin of some kind.

[Seakindly]

Thanks CB, Although I am leaning towards some kind of platform, I was checking the material costs online last night and my thrifty nature began to resurface.

Thanks for the tip JAY SEA, why don't you post a picture of one? :-/

[macojoe]

I have a dog, and he will run up there and throw the anchor for me!!
But you have to feed them well! But I have good news for you, I saved a bunch of money on my car Ins. with GEICO!! *;D

[Seakindly]

Macojoe, BIG SH!T, Any dog can throw an anchor.

Can he fetch one?

[reelapeelin]

Hey Seakindly...

look on The Hull Truth...lotta info under thread called bow pulpit

if you're not familiar w/it, it's thehulltruth.com...almost as much fun as this site, but not quite....

[Seakindly]

Thanks RaP, been there, done that, it was helpful.

But the steplift cuddy design presents it's own special challenge to installing this type of setup ???.

I have obtained the materials for my beastly solution. Tomorrow, I drill :o.

[chumbucket]

Don't be scared young Jedi Knight. Drill away.
Hopefully BigS sends you that camera soon so you can so us pics of your project. ;D

[macojoe]

Drill away!! its only fiberglass!! If not right the fill and drill again!!

[Seakindly]

It will be right, and a fine example of beastly ugly overkill. ;D

[chumbucket]

Hey Seakindly, I see in the new pictures that 70wellcraft posted in the gallery, he's got a pulpit on the bow of his boat. Have you already started drilling yours?

[Seakindly]

Believe it or not, I just finished mounting the bow lights today. I enjoy doing this stuff, but it takes me FOREVER.

All I have left to do is install some seafoam starboard as a veneer around the base of the aluminum platform that spans the forward sliding hatch cover. Purely for cosmetics, the system is functional at this time.

I am lookin forward to posting some pictures, soon. This project turned out to be much more complicated and expensive than I had originally envisioned (They always do). Overkill. It may not have even been necessary, but I am sure it will give me many years of fine service.

[chumbucket]

Overkill's not a bad thing. There's a tremendous amount of strain that's applied to the end of that roller and you certainly don't want it pulling through your deck then having a bigger project on your hands.
Can't wait to see the pics.

[Seakindly]

The wind finally layed down today, and I got a chance to put the new anchor roller system to the test. Again and again and again and again and again and again. ::)

It was really cool.8)

Don't know how I did without it all of these years. I guess necessity, truly is the mother of invention.

[chumbucket]

Really does make a difference doesn't it? Like I mentioned before, I had one on an older boat and my buddy has one on his V20 Steplift. It just makes it so much easier when your standing inside the cabin and the roller helps by not allowing everything to drag against the rubrail and gelcoat on the bow. Less chance of dinging the gelcoat with the anchor.
Glad it came out to your liking. Try to get some pics sometime.

[macojoe]

Yea what he said!! Pic, Pic!! ;D

[Seakindly]

MACOJOE, I just had a great idea. Since you are such a great photographer (I MEAN THAT SINCERELY), why don't you come over and help me wash and wax my boat and then snap some super pictures? ;) Afterwards, we can go fishin. Deal?

Chumbucket, I was able to hoist anchor while alone at the wheel without a windlass.:D The steplift's walk thru windshield was one of the things that appealed to me for solo boat handling in a cuddy cabin. This boat really seems to meet my needs. :)

[macojoe]

No problem!! But that is a hell of a ride!!
I really wish I could take great pic's!! That is a dream of mine someday! To be able to take great pic's with a great Camera. But that takes Cash and that is something I seem always to be short of??
If I give up boating I would be able to do it?? But that is not likley to happen soon.

[chumbucket]

:oMj wash and wax a boat? ::)I don't think so. ;D :-*

[macojoe]

I have never done that before!! Wax on wax off

[Seakindly]

Yeah, I knew I was reaching, but I figured - why not give it a shot? ;D

[Seakindly]

I have finally posted pics of this project in my gallery. :)
I have not yet installed cosmetic starboard veneer around base of the platform.

[chumbucket]

Looks good. Should work out well for ya.

[Seakindly]

Thanks CB, it is super strong and easy to work the ground tackle.

I haven't anchored under any really nasty conditions, yet. My only worry is that I might bury the bow. ??? I may have to add bow chocks to lay off center in bad seas.

How does your v20 take the big seas at anchor?

[chumbucket]

I haven't come close to stuffing the bow yet. Mine has a cleat in the center and chocks on port and starboard. I think it would take an awful big sea to stuff it so you should be okay. If you feel concerned at all when your out there just let out more scope on the rode or reset your anchor so you can let more scope out and you'll be fine.

[Seakindly]

Thanks CB, that reassuring + good advice. :)

[bigshrimpin]

Seakindly,
Great pics . . . . Love the pulpit!! I was wondering how you were going to design it around the sliding hatch door. Nice work!!

[macojoe]

Real nice job there!!

?? Do you think using long bolts from top to bottom is stronger then using short bolts?? Lets say 4 to bolt top on, and 4 to bolt threw bow?? Might be less levrage when anchor is tyed on to cleats.
I only ask as that is the way i would have done it and wanted to no if one way is better then the other.

But looks great!! Good Luck with it!!

[Seakindly]

Thanks Bigshrimpin, I was startin to wonder if they weren't good enuff to be shown you're V21 here.

Macojoe, the bolts for the platform assembly are 1/2 inch by 8 inch (should have used 7 inch) grade 316 stainless steel. I think shorter bolts of the same diameter are actually stronger, but at 1/2 inch diameter, bolt strength is not an issue. Priced at an unbelievably low $2.61/bolt from mcmaster-carr, cost was not an issue either. The grade 6063 2"x3" rectangular tube is only 1/8 inch in diameter. This is the weakest link in the platform system. The force on the aft bolts would be applied to this 1/8 tube with a washer as a backing plate, if I had used short bolts. Even so I think I would have been alright if I had went that way. It was not easy to get everything to line up straight using the long bolts. There is also 1/4 inch neoprene rubber in three levels of the platform assembly, as well as beneath the anchor roller assembly, to: 1)correct for the slight curve of the deck,2)absorb shock loads, and 3) provide additional waterproofing to the epoxy sealed and boatlife caulked holes. The aluminum platform is 3/4 " grade 6061 and the samson post is attached with four 1/2 inch grade 316 stainless steel bolts.

Yep, beastly ugly overkill.

[macojoe]

I see so you put nuts in the tube on the bolts so you could stop the metel from bending when under persure!!
Good deal

http://home.comcast.net/~macojoe/wsb/media/137921/site1142.JPG

[macojoe]

Thismstops the tube from bending and puts the weight on the bolt.

[Seakindly]

Nice drawing, Macojoe, but there are no nuts on the inside of the tubes. That is a good idea for the forward bolts, because the force would tend to compress the tube at front. It wouldn't do anything on the back bolts as the force there is to pull up against the 4" x 14" x 1/4" 6061 alum backing plates beneath the foredeck. I don't think the front of the tube will compress because the back of the tube is not gonna lift - that is where the real strain is. We'll see, because I ain't changing it unless I have to. :'(

The bolts I used were not threaded all the way. I don't like threaded all the way. They are weaker and I feel that the threads can act like a file over time if there is any flex, or expansion and contraction - which certainly will occur. The 1/8 " wall tube is stronger than it sounds, but it did bow outwards slightly when I tightened (overtightened?) the 1/2 bolts. Nuts on the inside would have prevented that.

Thanks for your input, Macojoe. :)

[chipde]

don't forget folks - plenty of line when you're hanging..

I know, I got my cuddy drenched once in rollers close to the beach... that boat fills up fast when the sliders are open..

the old salts say to use at least a line 7x the depth you're anchoring in - of course that does not work in shallow water with breakers -
as I found out -
it dug it's nose right in, after I dozed off during high noon for a while !

/chipde

[Seakindly]

That really is a good reminder. I use so much heavy chain that I often don't bother to lay out much scope.

[Mac_Attack]

SK when the anchor has been used and the line is wet do you disconnect it from the chain so that you can take the line from the cuddy to dry. *If you leave it wet in the cuddy doesn't it smell? *Bill Mc

[macojoe]

I have no doors on my cuddy, but I have my line in a 5 gal bucket with holes drilled in the bottom and all the water drains and the line drys quick! never a problem.
But they have no doors on the older cuddys.

[Seakindly]

When I haul in the anchor line during a fishin trip, I flake it down to the port foredeck if it is relatively calm or to a milk crate on the port foredeck if it is snotty. When I haul in the anchor line in a strong current, I flake it down to the milk crate on the cockpit floor so that I can take up the rode while under power. Then before I break loose from the bottom I go to neutral and move to the front of my platform to continue hauling the rode with the milk crate at my feet or on the port foredeck. My fancy cushions are not kept on the boat. There is marine? carpeting on the cuddy floor. I try to keep this as clean and dry as possible, but hey it’s a fishin boat. I suppose I could and (probably should) flake the line down to a watertight tote and then transfer it to the milk crate for storage.

When I am finished for the day, I secure the anchor in the roller with the tensioner. Next, I wrap my 10 feet of 3/8 galvanized chain around the 2 - 8 inch cleats on the platform. The chain is held snug by making the line fast to the samson post. Then the line runs over the port windshield to the milk crate which sits on the copilot’s seat or the cockpit floor if I have a crew aboard. If I have to drop anchor in a hurry, I can do so in half a minute. This is the way it is on the way out or back in.

I do not want the line to be damaged by the sun in my driveway between trips. I untie the bowline knot that connects to the smooth grade 316 stainless steel shackle to the chain. Then I store the line in the crate on the seat, shielded from the sun with a towel. Before I leave the driveway, I retie the bowline knot to the shackle, and I am good to go.

I have a second, much longer, length of braided line for deep water anchoring, stored on a plastic garden hose reel. I am able to tie this to the ground tackle as needed. I also carry a second anchor and have wreck anchors as well, so I like to have some choice of lines and anchors. I really don’t like the idea of using a snap connection like MJ does. Anchoring can be a do or die situation, and I am not that brave, for strange things can happen down there.

[Mac_Attack]

SK Thanks you for your explantion. *I like the anchor roller. *I just had thoughts of the line going into the small anchor locker wet and becoming *moldy and smelly. *When you moved your running lights how did you lengthen the wires and are they run under the head liner in the cuddy. *Mac Attack ;D *

On my Gruman I had two lenghts of anchor line. *One for Lake ST. Clair, ave depth 15' and one for the western basin of lake Erie max depth 32'. *These were coiled on extension cord reels and when used were air dried before putting back into my forward locker.

[Seakindly]

The wires run under the head liner to a small forward compartment at the bow. I ripped off the carpet here to install roller and platform (see pics). I just spliced more wire for the new bow lights.

[macojoe]

I will say I use a snap conn but it is a Stanless Snap about 4" so it is a real strong one!! At least as strong as the rope. I had to pull it with power one day held just fine.

I also have drilled my danford anchor and I hook my chain at the botton of the anchor. Then I run it up the shank and were you are to really put your chain I use a real big wire tie like they use for the utitlity co.
Now when the anchor gets stuck I cna pull hard or power pull and the wire tie breaks and I pull the anchor from the bottom and out it comes!!

[Seakindly]

MJ, I am sure the snap is a strong one. I just wouldn't trust it not coming unhooked at the worst possible moment.

The other trick is a good one for the same kinds of bumpy, sticky bottom structure that can open snaps.